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| [GMCnet] How hot should the rear wheels get? [message #218004] |
Mon, 12 August 2013 13:06  |
glwgmc
Messages: 1014
Registered: June 2004
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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Maybe a long shot, but have you checked to make sure your emergency brake is not on? Don't ask me how I know that will really heat up the rear brakes!
Jerry
Jerry Work
The Dovetail Joint
Fine furniture designed and hand crafted in the 1907 former Masonic Temple building in historic Kerby, OR
Visitors always welcome!
glwork@mac.com
http://jerrywork.com
541-499-1027
541-592-5360
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 09:14:00 -0500
From: Ken Burton <n9cv@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] How hot should the rear wheels get?
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Message-ID: <35370.5208eda7@gmc.mybirdfeeder.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-15"
Since you do not know what is causing your problem, I suggest the following.
Take the coach for a drive and after 10 or 15 minutes of not using the brakes, coast to a stop on the side of the road WITHOUT using the brakes. Now measure the temperature of the brake drums ans see what you have.
If they are too hot to touch then you do indeed have a problem.
It has to be either bearings too tight or brakes dragging.
Which one do you want to try first?
It would not take long to pop the wheel bearing caps and loosen each of the axle nuts one notch and go try driving it again.
The second item to try, is to go around and loosen up all 4 brakes on the rear wheels. Again I would go maybe 2 notches on each wheel. Then go drive it again checking for temperature built like you did at the beginning of this post.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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Jerry & Sharon Work
78 Royale
Kerby, OR
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| Re: [GMCnet] How hot should the rear wheels get? [message #218006 is a reply to message #218004] |
Mon, 12 August 2013 13:16  |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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A simple test to check for residual pressure in the rear braking system as
a cause for hot brakes is to put your toe under the brake pedal and lift up
while you are driving the coach. If you feel the coach increase slightly in
speed, your master cylinder pushrod is too long or you have a problem with
your distribution valve. If there is a bunch of air in the rear brake
lines, it can heat up and expand and generate enough pressure to make the
brakes drag as well. If the brake cylinders are full of crud, the pistons
might be sticking in the cylinders, but this usually affects only one
instead of all four cylinders. Be sure to get an accurate temperature on
the drums. If they are hotter than 150-200 degrees when you have not been
using the brakes, you definitely have a problem. The cause list is long.
Jim Hupy
Salem, OR
78 GMC Royale 403
On Mon, Aug 12, 2013 at 11:06 AM, Work Jerry <glwork@mac.com> wrote:
> Maybe a long shot, but have you checked to make sure your emergency brake
> is not on? Don't ask me how I know that will really heat up the rear
> brakes!
>
> Jerry
> Jerry Work
> The Dovetail Joint
> Fine furniture designed and hand crafted in the 1907 former Masonic Temple
> building in historic Kerby, OR
> Visitors always welcome!
> glwork@mac.com
> http://jerrywork.com
> 541-499-1027
> 541-592-5360
>
> ============
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 09:14:00 -0500
> From: Ken Burton <n9cv@comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] How hot should the rear wheels get?
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Message-ID: <35370.5208eda7@gmc.mybirdfeeder.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-15"
>
>
>
> Since you do not know what is causing your problem, I suggest the
> following.
>
> Take the coach for a drive and after 10 or 15 minutes of not using the
> brakes, coast to a stop on the side of the road WITHOUT using the brakes.
> Now measure the temperature of the brake drums ans see what you have.
>
> If they are too hot to touch then you do indeed have a problem.
>
> It has to be either bearings too tight or brakes dragging.
>
> Which one do you want to try first?
>
> It would not take long to pop the wheel bearing caps and loosen each of
> the axle nuts one notch and go try driving it again.
>
> The second item to try, is to go around and loosen up all 4 brakes on the
> rear wheels. Again I would go maybe 2 notches on each wheel. Then go
> drive it again checking for temperature built like you did at the beginning
> of this post.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
> ==============
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] How hot should the rear wheels get? [message #218252 is a reply to message #218225] |
Tue, 13 August 2013 22:35 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Clay works, but after 15 years, I finally devised a MUCH easier Way:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6289-master-cylinder-pushrod-gauge.html
Ken H
On Aug 13, 2013 4:53 PM, "Jim Wagner" <slwjmw@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>
> Using clay on the end of the rod works good. This is what I did to find
> the problem on our GMC when we first got it. I could feel a drag on the
> rear wheels that would go away when I loosened one of the bleeders. I
> adjusted the rod to give me .020 clearance. This freed the rear wheels.
> JWID
> Jim Wagner
> 500GMC
> Brook Park, oh
>
>
> On Aug 13, 2013, at 12:22, Jon Payne <mailto:embrep@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > It would certainly not to hurt try. For sure you can remove the MC from
> the booster without disconnecting the lines.
> >
> > It might be possible to put a piece of clay on the end of the rod,
> re-install the MC then remove again to know if the rod is in fact
> contacting the MC. I never tried this on the MC so I don't know if it would
> work. Might be worth a try.
> >
> > Jon
> > --
> > Jon Payne
> > 76 Palm Beach
> > Westfield,IN
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] How hot should the rear wheels get? [message #218285 is a reply to message #218282] |
Wed, 14 August 2013 09:38 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Moving the bracket from its position between the MC and booster to forward
of the MC effectively makes the pushrod longer by the thickness of the
bracket. Or vice-versa. To use my gauge, one must install it in the
planned configuration, then disassemble and measure the gauge. I won't
even installed an "identical" MC without that check. IMHO, 0.010" is
plenty of clearance from the measured length of the gauge.
Ken H
On Aug 14, 2013 6:59 AM, "Rob Mueller" <robmueller@iinet.net.au> wrote:
> Ken,
>
> I'm sorry but I just don't understand this sentence:
>
> "With the bracket moved from between the booster and the MC to on top of
> the MC, my gauge read 2.570" after the MC was mounted
> snugly and removed."
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ken Henderson
>
>
> Clay works, but after 15 years, I finally devised a MUCH easier Way:
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6289-master-cylinder-pushrod-gauge.html
>
> Ken H
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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