GMCforum
For enthusiast of the Classic GMC Motorhome built from 1973 to 1978. A web-based mirror of the GMCnet mailing list.

Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Assessing a coach to purchase - 12 volt system
Assessing a coach to purchase - 12 volt system [message #211892] Sat, 22 June 2013 18:14 Go to previous message
Tilerpep is currently offline  Tilerpep   United States
Messages: 404
Registered: June 2013
Location: Raleigh, NC
Karma:
Senior Member
I have been reading voraciously across this forum, the suppliers, and the club sites for the last two weeks as I am deciding if I want to buy a neighbor's 1975 Eleganza. The community definitely is a selling point. It has been sitting, unmoved, unstarted, un-anything for nearly nine years. Current owner has let me work on it/assess. Several good things, several things need work (and money). Got generator started thanks to hot wire/priming trick from a web site. Old tires on 16.5 - either drop 3 grand total with aluminum upgrades or $1300 on Firestone TransForce seem to be only options there. Rebuilt engine fired right up after priming from passenger seat - because the front gas tank has a leak, so both tanks would need to be pulled and sealed. I only ran the 455 a minute or two at a time, as the coolant was pressing out from the overflow tank up front indicating something stopped up. Could post a LONG piece with what I have done, learned and found so far, but here is the biggest unknown so far...

Current owner stopped messing with it years ago because the batteries would come up dead overnight. I have been testing components and shore power ran 12 volt house fine. A battery hooked up by the generator ran 12 volt house fine. Here is where it gets weird - I took the battery out of generator box and moved it to the engine bay. I put negative lead on battery. When I put positive lead on battery, I heard the roof fan that was running from shore power (converter) stop. Thought I blew a fuse, but apparently not. Unless it was an amazing coincidence, it seems that the hot lead in the engine bay acted like a short which overloaded the converter which still buzzes, but doesn't put out 12v. These systems should be completely isolated except through the boost switch. However - I have a finned blue box above the solenoid in engine bay that has a hot lead to the rear battery connection, a hot lead to the engine battery connection, and one that goes into a wiring harness that I can't deduce purpose. And another clue/oddity - the radio in dash only comes on when I push the battery boost switch. So...diagnosing electrical is tough anyway, but ideas or things to test are most appreciated. What is the blue box? An isolator/insulator/combiner - I have read all these terms and how would I test it?
Many thanks!


1975 Glenbrook, 1978 Royale rear bath Raleigh, NC
 
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Read Message
Previous Topic: [GMCnet] There seems to be a slug of Royales out there
Next Topic: Re: [GMCnet] Replacing gasket under roof A/C
Goto Forum:
  


Current Time: Mon Oct 07 04:25:18 CDT 2024

Total time taken to generate the page: 0.01225 seconds