| Drum brake reaction arm install pics [message #209713] |
Mon, 03 June 2013 10:44  |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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I just got back from a 600 mile test drive with great brakes. I did have a few issues installing. One of my bogies was 50 thousands different width (thinner) than the other 3 ??? I found some 50 thou stainless flat washers at O`Reillys and shimmed the back block making my bogie thicker. I also had an issue with a wheel cyl being the wrong one, changed it and all was good. Also had the LR drum scrub the backing plate just a little so I relieved the drum with a grinder.
All in it was a straight forward install and I believe if it had been on anybodys coach except mine there would not been any issues. I did install the rear wheel bearing greasers also. On the trip I checked bearing temps and IIRC the rear bearings were running about 10*-15* cooler than before. After I hand packed the bgs and rotated the drum by hand I could hear the bearings rolling, but after filling the cavity with the new greaser the noise went away. Valvoline molly blend.
As far as time. 40 hrs by myself. well I am slow getting back and forth to the tool box, and did have to replace a bit I dulled running too fast, had to track down washers, wheel cyl, new wheel bgs & cups, grind drum, broke off 2 drill bits drilling the last cross hole when I ran out of cutting oil. So about 1/2 the time was not planned. So I figure 20 hrs to do the reaction arms and the grease fittings for anybody else.
I highly recommend both mods.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6388-drum-brake-reaction-arm-system.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6386-rear-wheel-bearing-greasers.html
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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| Re: Drum brake reaction arm install pics [message #209726 is a reply to message #209713] |
Mon, 03 June 2013 11:53  |
A Hamilto
Messages: 4508
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 39
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Senior Member |
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| C Boyd wrote on Mon, 03 June 2013 10:44 |
I just got back from a 600 mile test drive with great brakes. I did have a few issues installing. One of my bogies was 50 thousands different width (thinner) than the other 3 ??? I found some 50 thou stainless flat washers at O`Reillys and shimmed the back block making my bogie thicker. I also had an issue with a wheel cyl being the wrong one, changed it and all was good. Also had the LR drum scrub the backing plate just a little so I relieved the drum with a grinder.
All in it was a straight forward install and I believe if it had been on anybodys coach except mine there would not been any issues. I did install the rear wheel bearing greasers also. On the trip I checked bearing temps and IIRC the rear bearings were running about 10*-15* cooler than before. After I hand packed the bgs and rotated the drum by hand I could hear the bearings rolling, but after filling the cavity with the new greaser the noise went away. Valvoline molly blend.
As far as time. 40 hrs by myself. well I am slow getting back and forth to the tool box, and did have to replace a bit I dulled running too fast, had to track down washers, wheel cyl, new wheel bgs & cups, grind drum, broke off 2 drill bits drilling the last cross hole when I ran out of cutting oil. So about 1/2 the time was not planned. So I figure 20 hrs to do the reaction arms and the grease fittings for anybody else.
I highly recommend both mods.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6388-drum-brake-reaction-arm-system.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6386-rear-wheel-bearing-greasers.html
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Mr. Boyd sir,
1. Is the rocker box lubricated in any way, ever?
2. What is the "bearing spacer"? What does it do? Did it come with the kit?
3. Do the anchor blocks have any effect on using the bogie as a jack point?
4. Since the brake line now moves in relation to the swing arm, is anyone concerned that it will rub someplace and wear through?
Not directly related to the reaction arm kit:
5. When you relieved the drum that was rubbing on the backing plate, do you think it might have affected the wheel balance? Do you think the drum might be warped (due for replacement)?
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| Re: Drum brake reaction arm install pics [message #209727 is a reply to message #209726] |
Mon, 03 June 2013 12:11 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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1. Is the rocker box lubricated in any way, ever?
no sir, the blocks have a hi-tech Teflon type bushing.
2. What is the "bearing spacer"? What does it do? Did it come with the kit?
the spacer is supplied with the kit. when used with the greasers only it allows the rear seal to be set out 1/4" for more grease space behind the bearing and aligns the cross drilled hole with the bearing, when used for the reaction arm kit it compensates for the rocker block thickness that the backing plate now bolts to. When doing both mods only 1 spacer is used as it does both jobs.
3. Do the anchor blocks have any effect on using the bogie as a jack point?
You can still use a jack hook or the wedge block that Ragussa sells and Tom says you can jack under the blocks with a floor jack but I have not. My floor jack is just a little too tall to fit under the blocks at ride height.
4. Since the brake line now moves in relation to the swing arm, is anyone concerned that it will rub someplace and wear through?
The brake line supplies is a HD flexible line. I used wire ties in the factory hole for the hard line clamp but I took them off and left the line suspended. I believe it would not make any difference with or without.
Not directly related to the reaction arm kit:
5. When you relieved the drum that was rubbing on the backing plate, do you think it might have affected the wheel balance? Do you think the drum might be warped (due for replacement)?
I believe the rubbing issue was rough casting and rust. I added another pic explaining where to grind. I did check the runout after grinding and all looked good and no vibrations. I do run equell tire balance beads.
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C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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