Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] What all should I do while I still have my Royale up on blocks?
| [GMCnet] What all should I do while I still have my Royale up on blocks? [message #209237] |
Thu, 30 May 2013 07:23  |
Robin Hood
Messages: 1078
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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Belts and hoses were replaced in 1998 and have few miles, but I believe
they will age out just like tires. So, replace all three belts and the
upper and lower radiator hoses, correct?
Bleed the brakes and put in new brake fluid?
Change the oil, of course.
While it would be nice to do the black tank, finances don't allow for
anything but the essentials right now.
Are there any other things I should do while I'm waiting on the rims to get
here from JimK?
--
Robin Hood
Jackson, MS
2013 Subaru Outback "Top Flight"
1968 Pontiac Catalina "The Cheshire Cat"
1978 GMC Royale motorhome "Pinto Bean"
1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome "Barn Queen"
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| Re: [GMCnet] What all should I do while I still have my Royale up on blocks? [message #209238 is a reply to message #209237] |
Thu, 30 May 2013 07:28  |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Senior Member |
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I'd either replace or bypass the heater hoses and the hot water boost heat loop hoses if fitted. They're as old or older than, the upper and lower almost certainly.
--johnny
'76 23' transmode norris
'76 palm beach
________________________________
From: Robin Hood <loxley@gmail.com>
To: "gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org" <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 8:23 AM
Subject: [GMCnet] What all should I do while I still have my Royale up on blocks?
Belts and hoses were replaced in 1998 and have few miles, but I believe
they will age out just like tires. So, replace all three belts and the
upper and lower radiator hoses, correct?
Bleed the brakes and put in new brake fluid?
Change the oil, of course.
While it would be nice to do the black tank, finances don't allow for
anything but the essentials right now.
Are there any other things I should do while I'm waiting on the rims to get
here from JimK?
--
Robin Hood
Jackson, MS
2013 Subaru Outback "Top Flight"
1968 Pontiac Catalina "The Cheshire Cat"
1978 GMC Royale motorhome "Pinto Bean"
1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome "Barn Queen"
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Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: [GMCnet] What all should I do while I still have my Royale up on blocks? [message #209239 is a reply to message #209238] |
Thu, 30 May 2013 07:32 |
Robin Hood
Messages: 1078
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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Ah, good point. I think they're bypassed already by the previous owner, but
that's the sort of thing I need to confirm, and make it so if it's not that
way already.
On Thu, May 30, 2013 at 7:28 AM, Johnny Bridges <jhbridges@ymail.com> wrote:
> I'd either replace or bypass the heater hoses and the hot water boost heat
> loop hoses if fitted. They're as old or older than, the upper and lower
> almost certainly.
>
> --johnny
>
> '76 23' transmode norris
> '76 palm beach
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Robin Hood <loxley@gmail.com>
> To: "gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org" <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
> Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 8:23 AM
> Subject: [GMCnet] What all should I do while I still have my Royale up on
> blocks?
>
>
> Belts and hoses were replaced in 1998 and have few miles, but I believe
> they will age out just like tires. So, replace all three belts and the
> upper and lower radiator hoses, correct?
>
> Bleed the brakes and put in new brake fluid?
>
> Change the oil, of course.
>
> While it would be nice to do the black tank, finances don't allow for
> anything but the essentials right now.
>
> Are there any other things I should do while I'm waiting on the rims to get
> here from JimK?
>
> --
> Robin Hood
> Jackson, MS
> 2013 Subaru Outback "Top Flight"
> 1968 Pontiac Catalina "The Cheshire Cat"
> 1978 GMC Royale motorhome "Pinto Bean"
> 1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome "Barn Queen"
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Robin Hood
Jackson, MS
2013 Subaru Outback "Top Flight"
1968 Pontiac Catalina "The Cheshire Cat"
1978 GMC Royale motorhome "Pinto Bean"
1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome "Barn Queen"
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| Re: [GMCnet] What all should I do while I still have my Royale up onblocks? [message #209246 is a reply to message #209237] |
Thu, 30 May 2013 08:58 |
 |
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Robin,
1) Change the hoses and belts is a good idea as you will also change the antifreeze. It might be a good idea to use some radiator
flush before you change the fluid, however, I'm not sure about that - others please comment / correct me.
When you replace the antifreeze buy 100% antifreeze and use distilled water; if you buy premixed antifreeze you're paying a lot for
50% water!
2) Spend $75.00 and buy one of these, it will make flushing and bleeding the brakes go from a PITA to a POC (piece of cake)
http://bdub.net/jhupy/
Here's a link to what I believe to be the best Dot 4 available:
www.ate-na.com
Here is the data on it and where you can get it:
ATE Super Blue Racing: Dry boiling point: 536°F Wet boiling point: 392°F
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/accessoryDetail.jsp?ID=21
ATE TYP 200: Dry boiling point: 536°F Wet boiling point: 392°F
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/accessoryDetail.jsp?ID=22
The nice bit is that it comes in two colors so when you flush it you can see when the "old" fluid has been replaced with the "fresh"
fluid.
3) Change the oil: My intent with the following info is to inform Robin about the type of oils that are out there, I don't want to
start another "oil war." How about we let the following statement cover that possibility; Robin if you are concerned with the level
of ZDDP in the oil you use see my message "Motor oil with "sufficient" ZDDP levels."
I have run the gamut on oil and am back to Shell Rotella T 15W-40 (available from Wal Mart) and a Wix filter P/N 51258). Cause I'm a
belt and suspenders kinda guy I bought a gallon of this: https://www.sfrcorp.com/product/sfr-100-petroleum-oil-fortifier/ and add
5oz. per change.
4) While you're under the GMC changing H2O and oil/filter you could do a grease job as well. If you decide to do that I would
suggest a pistol grip grease gun like this, http://www.harborfreight.com/grease-gun-with-pistol-grip-66664.html you can pump it with
one hand leaving the second hand free to hold the hose on the zerk if necessary. I realize that you cannot deliver the grease with
as much pressure with this type of gun as with a lever action gun but if you can't get grease in the zerk with this gun there's
probably something wrong.
Regards,
RobM.
-----Original Message-----
From: Robin Hood
Belts and hoses were replaced in 1998 and have few miles, but I believe they will age out just like tires. So, replace all three
belts and the upper and lower radiator hoses, correct?
Bleed the brakes and put in new brake fluid?
Change the oil, of course.
While it would be nice to do the black tank, finances don't allow for anything but the essentials right now.
Are there any other things I should do while I'm waiting on the rims to get here from JimK?
Robin
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] What all should I do while I still have my Royale up onblocks? [message #209254 is a reply to message #209246] |
Thu, 30 May 2013 09:21 |
Robin Hood
Messages: 1078
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 3
|
Senior Member |
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Thanks, Rob. Can I use this instead? It looks like I make it out of things
I have laying around. Doesn't it do what the fancy one does?
http://www.bmw-m.net/techproc/bleeder.htm
On Thu, May 30, 2013 at 8:58 AM, Rob Mueller <robmueller@iinet.net.au>wrote:
> Robin,
>
> 1) Change the hoses and belts is a good idea as you will also change the
> antifreeze. It might be a good idea to use some radiator
> flush before you change the fluid, however, I'm not sure about that -
> others please comment / correct me.
>
> When you replace the antifreeze buy 100% antifreeze and use distilled
> water; if you buy premixed antifreeze you're paying a lot for
> 50% water!
>
> 2) Spend $75.00 and buy one of these, it will make flushing and bleeding
> the brakes go from a PITA to a POC (piece of cake)
>
> http://bdub.net/jhupy/
>
> Here's a link to what I believe to be the best Dot 4 available:
>
> www.ate-na.com
>
> Here is the data on it and where you can get it:
>
> ATE Super Blue Racing: Dry boiling point: 536°F Wet boiling point: 392°F
>
> http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/accessoryDetail.jsp?ID=21
>
> ATE TYP 200: Dry boiling point: 536°F Wet boiling point: 392°F
>
> http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/accessoryDetail.jsp?ID=22
>
> The nice bit is that it comes in two colors so when you flush it you can
> see when the "old" fluid has been replaced with the "fresh"
> fluid.
>
> 3) Change the oil: My intent with the following info is to inform Robin
> about the type of oils that are out there, I don't want to
> start another "oil war." How about we let the following statement cover
> that possibility; Robin if you are concerned with the level
> of ZDDP in the oil you use see my message "Motor oil with "sufficient"
> ZDDP levels."
>
> I have run the gamut on oil and am back to Shell Rotella T 15W-40
> (available from Wal Mart) and a Wix filter P/N 51258). Cause I'm a
> belt and suspenders kinda guy I bought a gallon of this:
> https://www.sfrcorp.com/product/sfr-100-petroleum-oil-fortifier/ and add
> 5oz. per change.
>
> 4) While you're under the GMC changing H2O and oil/filter you could do a
> grease job as well. If you decide to do that I would
> suggest a pistol grip grease gun like this,
> http://www.harborfreight.com/grease-gun-with-pistol-grip-66664.html you
> can pump it with
> one hand leaving the second hand free to hold the hose on the zerk if
> necessary. I realize that you cannot deliver the grease with
> as much pressure with this type of gun as with a lever action gun but if
> you can't get grease in the zerk with this gun there's
> probably something wrong.
>
> Regards,
> RobM.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robin Hood
>
> Belts and hoses were replaced in 1998 and have few miles, but I believe
> they will age out just like tires. So, replace all three
> belts and the upper and lower radiator hoses, correct?
>
> Bleed the brakes and put in new brake fluid?
>
> Change the oil, of course.
>
> While it would be nice to do the black tank, finances don't allow for
> anything but the essentials right now.
>
> Are there any other things I should do while I'm waiting on the rims to
> get here from JimK?
>
> Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Robin Hood
Jackson, MS
2013 Subaru Outback "Top Flight"
1968 Pontiac Catalina "The Cheshire Cat"
1978 GMC Royale motorhome "Pinto Bean"
1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome "Barn Queen"
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| Re: [GMCnet] What all should I do while I still have my Royale up on blocks? [message #209256 is a reply to message #209237] |
Thu, 30 May 2013 09:35 |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Robin
You could clean, exercise and lube the parking brake cable, clean and rotate the airbags, check the bogie swing arms for play, give the exhaust and the underside a thorough inspection and take good photos for reference.
Dennis
quote title=Robin Hood wrote on Thu, 30 May 2013 07:23]Belts and hoses were replaced in 1998 and have few miles, but I believe
they will age out just like tires. So, replace all three belts and the
upper and lower radiator hoses, correct?
Bleed the brakes and put in new brake fluid?
Change the oil, of course.
While it would be nice to do the black tank, finances don't allow for
anything but the essentials right now.
Are there any other things I should do while I'm waiting on the rims to get
here from JimK?
--
Robin Hood
Jackson, MS
2013 Subaru Outback "Top Flight"
1968 Pontiac Catalina "The Cheshire Cat"
1978 GMC Royale motorhome "Pinto Bean"
1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome "Barn Queen"
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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[/quote]
Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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| Re: [GMCnet] What all should I do while I still have my Royale up onblocks? [message #209258 is a reply to message #209254] |
Thu, 30 May 2013 09:41 |
 |
ljdavick
Messages: 3548
Registered: March 2007
Location: Fremont, CA
Karma: -3
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Senior Member |
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I know it's not the same quality, but the results are the same - I have had very good luck with the Harbor Freight brake bleeder. It takes a compressor to operate, bit is very easy to use.
<http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/brakes/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html>
Larry Davick
On May 30, 2013, at 7:21 AM, Robin Hood <loxley@gmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks, Rob. Can I use this instead? It looks like I make it out of things
> I have laying around. Doesn't it do what the fancy one does?
> http://www.bmw-m.net/techproc/bleeder.htm
>
>
> On Thu, May 30, 2013 at 8:58 AM, Rob Mueller <robmueller@iinet.net.au>wrote:
>
>> Robin,
>>
>> 1) Change the hoses and belts is a good idea as you will also change the
>> antifreeze. It might be a good idea to use some radiator
>> flush before you change the fluid, however, I'm not sure about that -
>> others please comment / correct me.
>>
>> When you replace the antifreeze buy 100% antifreeze and use distilled
>> water; if you buy premixed antifreeze you're paying a lot for
>> 50% water!
>>
>> 2) Spend $75.00 and buy one of these, it will make flushing and bleeding
>> the brakes go from a PITA to a POC (piece of cake)
>>
>> http://bdub.net/jhupy/
>>
>> Here's a link to what I believe to be the best Dot 4 available:
>>
>> www.ate-na.com
>>
>> Here is the data on it and where you can get it:
>>
>> ATE Super Blue Racing: Dry boiling point: 536°F Wet boiling point: 392°F
>>
>> http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/accessoryDetail.jsp?ID=21
>>
>> ATE TYP 200: Dry boiling point: 536°F Wet boiling point: 392°F
>>
>> http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/accessoryDetail.jsp?ID=22
>>
>> The nice bit is that it comes in two colors so when you flush it you can
>> see when the "old" fluid has been replaced with the "fresh"
>> fluid.
>>
>> 3) Change the oil: My intent with the following info is to inform Robin
>> about the type of oils that are out there, I don't want to
>> start another "oil war." How about we let the following statement cover
>> that possibility; Robin if you are concerned with the level
>> of ZDDP in the oil you use see my message "Motor oil with "sufficient"
>> ZDDP levels."
>>
>> I have run the gamut on oil and am back to Shell Rotella T 15W-40
>> (available from Wal Mart) and a Wix filter P/N 51258). Cause I'm a
>> belt and suspenders kinda guy I bought a gallon of this:
>> https://www.sfrcorp.com/product/sfr-100-petroleum-oil-fortifier/ and add
>> 5oz. per change.
>>
>> 4) While you're under the GMC changing H2O and oil/filter you could do a
>> grease job as well. If you decide to do that I would
>> suggest a pistol grip grease gun like this,
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/grease-gun-with-pistol-grip-66664.html you
>> can pump it with
>> one hand leaving the second hand free to hold the hose on the zerk if
>> necessary. I realize that you cannot deliver the grease with
>> as much pressure with this type of gun as with a lever action gun but if
>> you can't get grease in the zerk with this gun there's
>> probably something wrong.
>>
>> Regards,
>> RobM.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Robin Hood
>>
>> Belts and hoses were replaced in 1998 and have few miles, but I believe
>> they will age out just like tires. So, replace all three
>> belts and the upper and lower radiator hoses, correct?
>>
>> Bleed the brakes and put in new brake fluid?
>>
>> Change the oil, of course.
>>
>> While it would be nice to do the black tank, finances don't allow for
>> anything but the essentials right now.
>>
>> Are there any other things I should do while I'm waiting on the rims to
>> get here from JimK?
>>
>> Robin
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Robin Hood
> Jackson, MS
> 2013 Subaru Outback "Top Flight"
> 1968 Pontiac Catalina "The Cheshire Cat"
> 1978 GMC Royale motorhome "Pinto Bean"
> 1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome "Barn Queen"
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, Ca
Howell EFI + EBL + Electronic Dizzy
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| Re: [GMCnet] What all should I do while I still have my Royale up on blocks? [message #209370 is a reply to message #209237] |
Thu, 30 May 2013 23:54 |
|
ljdavick
Messages: 3548
Registered: March 2007
Location: Fremont, CA
Karma: -3
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Fuel lines ought to be as high on the list as anything else because they will fail. Replace all the soft supply lines. If you don’t want to smell stinky gasoline then you should also replace all the soft fill and vent lines too - don’t forget the Onan lines (even though she sits in your garage.)
You’ve driven the Pinto Bean, so you know the brakes work, bleeding them is a minimum, and again, that Harbor Freight vacuum bleeder is cheap and effective.
Inspect the big positive battery cable that goes front to back.
Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, CA
On May 30, 2013, at 5:23 AM, Robin Hood wrote:
> Belts and hoses were replaced in 1998 and have few miles, but I believe
> they will age out just like tires. So, replace all three belts and the
> upper and lower radiator hoses, correct?
>
> Bleed the brakes and put in new brake fluid?
>
> Change the oil, of course.
>
> While it would be nice to do the black tank, finances don't allow for
> anything but the essentials right now.
>
> Are there any other things I should do while I'm waiting on the rims to get
> here from JimK?
>
> --
> Robin Hood
> Jackson, MS
> 2013 Subaru Outback "Top Flight"
> 1968 Pontiac Catalina "The Cheshire Cat"
> 1978 GMC Royale motorhome "Pinto Bean"
> 1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome "Barn Queen
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, Ca
Howell EFI + EBL + Electronic Dizzy
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| Re: [GMCnet] What all should I do while I still have my Royale up on blocks? [message #209790 is a reply to message #209370] |
Tue, 04 June 2013 06:57 |
Robin Hood
Messages: 1078
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 3
|
Senior Member |
|
|
If I find that I need to replace the front calipers, what part number do I
need? The left and right calipers off a 77/78 Toronado? The part numbers
given on the GMCHMINFO page (example, NAPA 442-2010) aren't being
recognized by napaonline.com.
On Thu, May 30, 2013 at 11:54 PM, Larry Davick <ljdavick@comcast.net> wrote:
> Fuel lines ought to be as high on the list as anything else because they
> will fail. Replace all the soft supply lines. If you don’t want to smell
> stinky gasoline then you should also replace all the soft fill and vent
> lines too - don’t forget the Onan lines (even though she sits in your
> garage.)
> You’ve driven the Pinto Bean, so you know the brakes work, bleeding them
> is a minimum, and again, that Harbor Freight vacuum bleeder is cheap and
> effective.
> Inspect the big positive battery cable that goes front to back.
>
> Larry Davick
> A Mystery Machine
> 1976(ish) Palm Beach
> Fremont, CA
>
> On May 30, 2013, at 5:23 AM, Robin Hood wrote:
>
> > Belts and hoses were replaced in 1998 and have few miles, but I believe
> > they will age out just like tires. So, replace all three belts and the
> > upper and lower radiator hoses, correct?
> >
> > Bleed the brakes and put in new brake fluid?
> >
> > Change the oil, of course.
> >
> > While it would be nice to do the black tank, finances don't allow for
> > anything but the essentials right now.
> >
> > Are there any other things I should do while I'm waiting on the rims to
> get
> > here from JimK?
> >
> > --
> > Robin Hood
> > Jackson, MS
> > 2013 Subaru Outback "Top Flight"
> > 1968 Pontiac Catalina "The Cheshire Cat"
> > 1978 GMC Royale motorhome "Pinto Bean"
> > 1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome "Barn Queen
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Robin Hood
Jackson, MS
2013 Subaru Outback "Top Flight"
1968 Pontiac Catalina "The Cheshire Cat"
1978 GMC Royale motorhome "Pinto Bean"
1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome "Barn Queen"
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| Re: [GMCnet] What all should I do while I still have my Royale up on blocks? [message #209794 is a reply to message #209790] |
Tue, 04 June 2013 08:18 |
powerjon
Messages: 2446
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 5
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Robbin,
Try NAPA number CAL SE4633 for the left side and CAL SE4632 for the right side.
JR Wright
78 Buskirk Stretch
Michigan
On Jun 4, 2013, at 7:57 AM, Robin Hood <loxley@gmail.com> wrote:
> If I find that I need to replace the front calipers, what part number do I
> need? The left and right calipers off a 77/78 Toronado? The part numbers
> given on the GMCHMINFO page (example, NAPA 442-2010) aren't being
> recognized by napaonline.com.
>
>
> On Thu, May 30, 2013 at 11:54 PM, Larry Davick <ljdavick@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Fuel lines ought to be as high on the list as anything else because they
>> will fail. Replace all the soft supply lines. If you don’t want to smell
>> stinky gasoline then you should also replace all the soft fill and vent
>> lines too - don’t forget the Onan lines (even though she sits in your
>> garage.)
>> You’ve driven the Pinto Bean, so you know the brakes work, bleeding them
>> is a minimum, and again, that Harbor Freight vacuum bleeder is cheap and
>> effective.
>> Inspect the big positive battery cable that goes front to back.
>>
>> Larry Davick
>> A Mystery Machine
>> 1976(ish) Palm Beach
>> Fremont, CA
>>
>> On May 30, 2013, at 5:23 AM, Robin Hood wrote:
>>
>>> Belts and hoses were replaced in 1998 and have few miles, but I believe
>>> they will age out just like tires. So, replace all three belts and the
>>> upper and lower radiator hoses, correct?
>>>
>>> Bleed the brakes and put in new brake fluid?
>>>
>>> Change the oil, of course.
>>>
>>> While it would be nice to do the black tank, finances don't allow for
>>> anything but the essentials right now.
>>>
>>> Are there any other things I should do while I'm waiting on the rims to
>> get
>>> here from JimK?
>>>
>>> --
>>> Robin Hood
>>> Jackson, MS
>>> 2013 Subaru Outback "Top Flight"
>>> 1968 Pontiac Catalina "The Cheshire Cat"
>>> 1978 GMC Royale motorhome "Pinto Bean"
>>> 1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome "Barn Queen
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Robin Hood
> Jackson, MS
> 2013 Subaru Outback "Top Flight"
> 1968 Pontiac Catalina "The Cheshire Cat"
> 1978 GMC Royale motorhome "Pinto Bean"
> 1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome "Barn Queen"
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
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J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
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| Re: [GMCnet] What all should I do while I still have my Royale up on blocks? [message #209796 is a reply to message #209794] |
Tue, 04 June 2013 08:24 |
Robin Hood
Messages: 1078
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 3
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I've been meaning to go ahead and join GMCMHI, with the parts list etc. I
just can't afford it right this minute now that I'm having to thow
THOUSANDS of dollars at TWO coaches trying to get them moved expeditiously.
On Tue, Jun 4, 2013 at 8:18 AM, John Wright <powerjon@chartermi.net> wrote:
> Robbin,
> Try NAPA number CAL SE4633 for the left side and CAL SE4632 for the right
> side.
> JR Wright
> 78 Buskirk Stretch
> Michigan
>
> On Jun 4, 2013, at 7:57 AM, Robin Hood <loxley@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > If I find that I need to replace the front calipers, what part number do
> I
> > need? The left and right calipers off a 77/78 Toronado? The part numbers
> > given on the GMCHMINFO page (example, NAPA 442-2010) aren't being
> > recognized by napaonline.com.
> >
> >
> > On Thu, May 30, 2013 at 11:54 PM, Larry Davick <ljdavick@comcast.net>
> wrote:
> >
> >> Fuel lines ought to be as high on the list as anything else because they
> >> will fail. Replace all the soft supply lines. If you don’t want to
> smell
> >> stinky gasoline then you should also replace all the soft fill and vent
> >> lines too - don’t forget the Onan lines (even though she sits in your
> >> garage.)
> >> You’ve driven the Pinto Bean, so you know the brakes work, bleeding them
> >> is a minimum, and again, that Harbor Freight vacuum bleeder is cheap and
> >> effective.
> >> Inspect the big positive battery cable that goes front to back.
> >>
> >> Larry Davick
> >> A Mystery Machine
> >> 1976(ish) Palm Beach
> >> Fremont, CA
> >>
> >> On May 30, 2013, at 5:23 AM, Robin Hood wrote:
> >>
> >>> Belts and hoses were replaced in 1998 and have few miles, but I believe
> >>> they will age out just like tires. So, replace all three belts and the
> >>> upper and lower radiator hoses, correct?
> >>>
> >>> Bleed the brakes and put in new brake fluid?
> >>>
> >>> Change the oil, of course.
> >>>
> >>> While it would be nice to do the black tank, finances don't allow for
> >>> anything but the essentials right now.
> >>>
> >>> Are there any other things I should do while I'm waiting on the rims to
> >> get
> >>> here from JimK?
> >>>
> >>> --
> >>> Robin Hood
> >>> Jackson, MS
> >>> 2013 Subaru Outback "Top Flight"
> >>> 1968 Pontiac Catalina "The Cheshire Cat"
> >>> 1978 GMC Royale motorhome "Pinto Bean"
> >>> 1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome "Barn Queen
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> GMCnet mailing list
> >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Robin Hood
> > Jackson, MS
> > 2013 Subaru Outback "Top Flight"
> > 1968 Pontiac Catalina "The Cheshire Cat"
> > 1978 GMC Royale motorhome "Pinto Bean"
> > 1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome "Barn Queen"
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Robin Hood
Jackson, MS
2013 Subaru Outback "Top Flight"
1968 Pontiac Catalina "The Cheshire Cat"
1978 GMC Royale motorhome "Pinto Bean"
1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome "Barn Queen"
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| Re: [GMCnet] What all should I do while I still have my Royale up on blocks? [message #209799 is a reply to message #209796] |
Tue, 04 June 2013 08:32 |
powerjon
Messages: 2446
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 5
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Now Robbin, I didn't poke you with a sharp stick on not being member of GMCMI, but it is cheap information. The new part interchange just arrived in the last month. When searching napaonline.com for parts I usually use 1975 or 76 toronado as a starting point or if I have a part number use no vehicle listed.
JR Wright
78 Buskirk Stretch
Michigan
On Jun 4, 2013, at 9:24 AM, Robin Hood <loxley@gmail.com> wrote:
> I've been meaning to go ahead and join GMCMHI, with the parts list etc. I
> just can't afford it right this minute now that I'm having to thow
> THOUSANDS of dollars at TWO coaches trying to get them moved expeditiously.
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 4, 2013 at 8:18 AM, John Wright <powerjon@chartermi.net> wrote:
>
>> Robbin,
>> Try NAPA number CAL SE4633 for the left side and CAL SE4632 for the right
>> side.
>> JR Wright
>> 78 Buskirk Stretch
>> Michigan
>>
>> On Jun 4, 2013, at 7:57 AM, Robin Hood <loxley@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> If I find that I need to replace the front calipers, what part number do
>> I
>>> need? The left and right calipers off a 77/78 Toronado? The part numbers
>>> given on the GMCHMINFO page (example, NAPA 442-2010) aren't being
>>> recognized by napaonline.com.
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] What all should I do while I still have my Royale up on blocks? [message #209800 is a reply to message #209799] |
Tue, 04 June 2013 08:33 |
Robin Hood
Messages: 1078
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 3
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Heh. I know. It was my way of saying "If I had gone ahead and already
joined up like I've been meaning to, I would already HAVE this information
and wouldn't have to ask, mea culpa." :)
On Tue, Jun 4, 2013 at 8:32 AM, John Wright <powerjon@chartermi.net> wrote:
> Now Robbin, I didn't poke you with a sharp stick on not being member of
> GMCMI, but it is cheap information. The new part interchange just arrived
> in the last month. When searching napaonline.com for parts I usually use
> 1975 or 76 toronado as a starting point or if I have a part number use no
> vehicle listed.
> JR Wright
> 78 Buskirk Stretch
> Michigan
>
> On Jun 4, 2013, at 9:24 AM, Robin Hood <loxley@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > I've been meaning to go ahead and join GMCMHI, with the parts list etc. I
> > just can't afford it right this minute now that I'm having to thow
> > THOUSANDS of dollars at TWO coaches trying to get them moved
> expeditiously.
> >
> >
> >
> > On Tue, Jun 4, 2013 at 8:18 AM, John Wright <powerjon@chartermi.net>
> wrote:
> >
> >> Robbin,
> >> Try NAPA number CAL SE4633 for the left side and CAL SE4632 for the
> right
> >> side.
> >> JR Wright
> >> 78 Buskirk Stretch
> >> Michigan
> >>
> >> On Jun 4, 2013, at 7:57 AM, Robin Hood <loxley@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>> If I find that I need to replace the front calipers, what part number
> do
> >> I
> >>> need? The left and right calipers off a 77/78 Toronado? The part
> numbers
> >>> given on the GMCHMINFO page (example, NAPA 442-2010) aren't being
> >>> recognized by napaonline.com.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Robin Hood
Jackson, MS
2013 Subaru Outback "Top Flight"
1968 Pontiac Catalina "The Cheshire Cat"
1978 GMC Royale motorhome "Pinto Bean"
1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome "Barn Queen"
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: [GMCnet] What all should I do while I still have my Royale up on blocks? [message #209813 is a reply to message #209811] |
Tue, 04 June 2013 09:07 |
Robin Hood
Messages: 1078
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 3
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Wow. Well, $2.50 certainly beats 25 bucks for remans. Truth be told, I'd
ratherput 25 towards some 80mm upgraded calipers from Jimk. Maybe I'll get
lucky and can skate by on refeshing a few parts.
On Tue, Jun 4, 2013 at 9:04 AM, Charles Boyd <covered-wagon@comcast.net>wrote:
>
>
> Sir: money is always an issue. take the calipers off, remove bleeder
> screw and blow shop air in the bleeder hole and catch the puck coming out.
> Clean & Inspect the bore and puck and if all is ok use a seal kit, if not
> use as a core.
>
> http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt%3dseal%2bkit%26Ntk%3dKeyword%26Nty%3d1%26N%3d599001%2b101976%2b50052%2b2052027%2b25003%26Ne%3d25000
> kits are also available for rears.
>
> [quote title=Robin Hood wrote on Tue, 04 June 2013 09:33]Heh. I know. It
> was my way of saying "If I had gone ahead and already
> joined up like I've been meaning to, I would already HAVE this information
> and wouldn't have to ask, mea culpa." :)
> > > I've been meaning to go ahead and join GMCMHI, with the parts list
> etc. I
> > > just can't afford it right this minute now that I'm having to thow
> > > THOUSANDS of dollars at TWO coaches trying to get them moved
> > expeditiously.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont
> East Tennessee
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Robin Hood
Jackson, MS
2013 Subaru Outback "Top Flight"
1968 Pontiac Catalina "The Cheshire Cat"
1978 GMC Royale motorhome "Pinto Bean"
1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome "Barn Queen"
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
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| Re: [GMCnet] What all should I do while I still have my Royale up on blocks? [message #209816 is a reply to message #209813] |
Tue, 04 June 2013 09:28 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
|
Senior Member |
|
|
"truth be told" you did say you were a lawyer? 
so your rubber lines going to the calipers are an issue also since they will probably be worse than the calipers. Use 2 LH 76 Olds Toro lines instead of a L&R. this will put the metal supports in the right place. The rear kits are bout $6.50 and a new rear wheel cyl is bout $7.50 so probably not economical to build.
If you go to 80mm calipers, they use different rubber lines since they have a banjo type fitting.
[quote title=Robin Hood wrote on Tue, 04 June 2013 10:07]Wow. Well, $2.50 certainly beats 25 bucks for remans. Truth be told, I'd
ratherput 25 towards some 80mm upgraded calipers from Jimk. Maybe I'll get
lucky and can skate by on refeshing a few parts.
On Tue, Jun 4, 2013 at 9:04 AM, Charles Boyd <covered-wagon@comcast.net>wrote:
>
>
> Sir: money is always an issue. take the calipers off, remove bleeder
> screw and blow shop air in the bleeder hole and catch the puck coming out.
> Clean & Inspect the bore and puck and if all is ok use a seal kit, if not
> use as a core.
>
> http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt%3dseal%2bkit%26Ntk%3dKeyword%26Nty%3d1%26N%3d599001%2b101976%2b50052%2b2052027%2b25003%26Ne%3d25000
> kits are also available for rears.
>
> | Robin Hood wrote on Tue, 04 June 2013 09:33 |
Heh. I know. It
> was my way of saying "If I had gone ahead and already
> joined up like I've been meaning to, I would already HAVE this information
> and wouldn't have to ask, mea culpa." 
> > > I've been meaning to go ahead and join GMCMHI, with the parts list
> etc. I
> > > just can't afford it right this minute now that I'm having to thow
> > > THOUSANDS of dollars at TWO coaches trying to get them moved
> > expeditiously.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont
> East Tennessee
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Robin Hood
Jackson, MS
2013 Subaru Outback "Top Flight"
1968 Pontiac Catalina "The Cheshire Cat"
1978 GMC Royale motorhome "Pinto Bean"
1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome "Barn Queen"
_______________________________________________
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C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
|
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|
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| Re: [GMCnet] What all should I do while I still have my Royale up on blocks? [message #209820 is a reply to message #209816] |
Tue, 04 June 2013 10:02 |
Robin Hood
Messages: 1078
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 3
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Ok, so new rubber brake lines, hope that my existing calipers work well
enough, rebuild kit for calipers if they don't. Rear wheel cylinders for
drum brakes aren't terribly expensive to replace in toto. Later on when
these are moved to their new location and I can recover from hemorrhaging
money, I can get the 80mm brake calipers and the requisite metal lines from
JimK.
On Tue, Jun 4, 2013 at 9:28 AM, Charles Boyd <covered-wagon@comcast.net>wrote:
>
>
> "truth be told" you did say you were a lawyer? :lol:
> so your rubber lines going to the calipers are an issue also since they
> will probably be worse than the calipers. Use 2 LH 76 Olds Toro lines
> instead of a L&R. this will put the metal supports in the right place. The
> rear kits are bout $6.50 and a new rear wheel cyl is bout $7.50 so probably
> not economical to build.
> If you go to 80mm calipers, they use different rubber lines since they
> have a banjo type fitting.
>
>
> [quote title=Robin Hood wrote on Tue, 04 June 2013 10:07]Wow. Well, $2.50
> certainly beats 25 bucks for remans. Truth be told, I'd
> ratherput 25 towards some 80mm upgraded calipers from Jimk. Maybe I'll get
> lucky and can skate by on refeshing a few parts.
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 4, 2013 at 9:04 AM, Charles Boyd <mailto:
> covered-wagon@comcast.net>wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Sir: money is always an issue. take the calipers off, remove bleeder
> > screw and blow shop air in the bleeder hole and catch the puck coming
> out.
> > Clean & Inspect the bore and puck and if all is ok use a seal kit, if not
> > use as a core.
> >
> >
> http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt%3dseal%2bkit%26Ntk%3dKeyword%26Nty%3d1%26N%3d599001%2b101976%2b50052%2b2052027%2b25003%26Ne%3d25000
> > kits are also available for rears.
> >
> > Robin Hood wrote on Tue, 04 June 2013 09:33
> > Heh. I know. It
> > > was my way of saying "If I had gone ahead and already
> > > joined up like I've been meaning to, I would already HAVE this
> information
> > > and wouldn't have to ask, mea culpa." :)
> > > > > I've been meaning to go ahead and join GMCMHI, with the parts list
> > > etc. I
> > > > > just can't afford it right this minute now that I'm having to thow
> > > > > THOUSANDS of dollars at TWO coaches trying to get them moved
> > > > expeditiously.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > --
> > > C. Boyd
> > > 76 Crestmont
> > > East Tennessee
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Robin Hood
> > Jackson, MS
> > 2013 Subaru Outback "Top Flight"
> > 1968 Pontiac Catalina "The Cheshire Cat"
> > 1978 GMC Royale motorhome "Pinto Bean"
> > 1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome "Barn Queen"
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
>
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont
> East Tennessee
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Robin Hood
Jackson, MS
2013 Subaru Outback "Top Flight"
1968 Pontiac Catalina "The Cheshire Cat"
1978 GMC Royale motorhome "Pinto Bean"
1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome "Barn Queen"
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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| Re: [GMCnet] What all should I do while I still have my Royale up on blocks? [message #209831 is a reply to message #209813] |
Tue, 04 June 2013 13:10 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
|
Senior Member |
|
|
[quote title=Robin Hood wrote on Tue, 04 June 2013 07:07]Wow. Well, $2.50 certainly beats 25 bucks for remans. Truth be told, I'd
ratherput 25 towards some 80mm upgraded calipers from Jimk. Maybe I'll get
lucky and can skate by on refeshing a few parts.
On Tue, Jun 4, 2013 at 9:04 AM, Charles Boyd <covered-wagon@comcast.net>wrote:
>
>
> Sir: money is always an issue. take the calipers off, remove bleeder
> screw and blow shop air in the bleeder hole and catch the puck coming out.
> Clean & Inspect the bore and puck and if all is ok use a seal kit, if not
> use as a core.
>
> http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt%3dseal%2bkit%26Ntk%3dKeyword%26Nty%3d1%26N%3d599001%2b101976%2b50052%2b2052027%2b25003%26Ne%3d25000
> kits are also available for rears.
>
> | Robin Hood wrote on Tue, 04 June 2013 09:33 |
Heh. I know. It
> was my way of saying "If I had gone ahead and already
> joined up like I've been meaning to, I would already HAVE this information
> and wouldn't have to ask, mea culpa."
> > > I've been meaning to go ahead and join GMCMHI, with the parts list
> etc. I
> > > just can't afford it right this minute now that I'm having to thow
> > > THOUSANDS of dollars at TWO coaches trying to get them moved
> > expeditiously.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont
> East Tennessee
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Robin Hood
Jackson, MS
2013 Subaru Outback "Top Flight"
1968 Pontiac Catalina "The Cheshire Cat"
1978 GMC Royale motorhome "Pinto Bean"
1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome "Barn Queen"
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
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Robin, If you do what Chuck suggests, DON'T try to catch the piston with your hand. Compressed air can shoot that thing out of there with enough force to break your fingers. Just stuff a rag in the caliper and let IT catch the piston.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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