Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Generator ground to frame and body
| Generator ground to frame and body [message #209172] |
Wed, 29 May 2013 16:22  |
mickey szilagyi
Messages: 273
Registered: January 2013
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We're still working on getting a Generac PrimePact 50 into our 26 foot coach. Everything is going well and we're getting close to testing it - before we actually put it into the compartment. By the way it fits but barely and same with the stainless golf cart battery tray, barely.
We noticed on the 12V schematic there are two grounds that connect to the same lug on the generator. One goes to the frame and one goes to the body. We're assuming, and hopefully correctly, that the body ground is basically to some aluminum part of the coach body and the frame ground is to the steel frame underneath the coach. We will use the same frame ground that the Onan was attached to. There was a bolt through the aluminum at the front right of the battery compartment that had large cables running to it when we first started this project and were removing stuff. We took pictures so we have a record of what went where. But we had to remove that battery compartment bolt as the stainless battery tray wouldn't go in with that bolt still in place. We were going to eliminate it as it seemed to be a ground replication as the Generac will be grounded to the frame along with the batteries. But, are we making a mistake? And we notice a lot of grounds in the 12V schematic at various places to either the frame or the body. Is that just for convenience or a matter of necessity? Isn't the body well connected to the frame so that grounding to one is as good as grounding to the other?
It seems like we don't run out of questions. You guys have helped us tremendously so far. I don't know how we could be doing the stuff we're doing without this forum.
Thanks all!
Mickey/Chris
1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing/Gregory MI
Mickey
1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI
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| Re: [GMCnet] Generator ground to frame and body [message #209190 is a reply to message #209172] |
Wed, 29 May 2013 17:56  |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Senior Member |
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For a piece of cable and a bolt/lock/flat, you can ground to both. Belt and suspenders sez me. I don't think ground loops are going to be a concern in a GMC.
--johnny
From: Mickey Szilagyi <mickey@apex-internet.com>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 5:22 PM
Subject: [GMCnet] Generator ground to frame and body
We're still working on getting a Generac PrimePact 50 into our 26 foot coach. Everything is going well and we're getting close to testing it - before we actually put it into the compartment. By the way it fits but barely and same with the stainless golf cart battery tray, barely.
We noticed on the 12V schematic there are two grounds that connect to the same lug on the generator. One goes to the frame and one goes to the body. We're assuming, and hopefully correctly, that the body ground is basically to some aluminum part of the coach body and the frame ground is to the steel frame underneath the coach. We will use the same frame ground that the Onan was attached to. There was a bolt through the aluminum at the front right of the battery compartment that had large cables running to it when we first started this project and were removing stuff. We took pictures so we have a record of what went where. But we had to remove that battery compartment bolt as the stainless battery tray wouldn't go in with that bolt still in place. We were going to eliminate it as it seemed to be a ground replication as the Generac will be grounded to the frame along with the batteries. But, are we making a mistake? And we notice a lot
of grounds in the 12V schematic
at various places to either the frame or the body. Is that just for convenience or a matter of necessity? Isn't the body well connected to the frame so that grounding to one is as good as grounding to the other?
It seems like we don't run out of questions. You guys have helped us tremendously so far. I don't know how we could be doing the stuff we're doing without this forum.
Thanks all!
Mickey/Chris
1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing/Gregory MI
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Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: Generator ground to frame and body [message #209231 is a reply to message #209172] |
Thu, 30 May 2013 02:05 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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| Mickey Szilagyi wrote on Wed, 29 May 2013 16:22 |
We're still working on getting a Generac PrimePact 50 into our 26 foot coach. Everything is going well and we're getting close to testing it - before we actually put it into the compartment. By the way it fits but barely and same with the stainless golf cart battery tray, barely.
We noticed on the 12V schematic there are two grounds that connect to the same lug on the generator. One goes to the frame and one goes to the body. We're assuming, and hopefully correctly, that the body ground is basically to some aluminum part of the coach body and the frame ground is to the steel frame underneath the coach. We will use the same frame ground that the Onan was attached to. There was a bolt through the aluminum at the front right of the battery compartment that had large cables running to it when we first started this project and were removing stuff. We took pictures so we have a record of what went where. But we had to remove that battery compartment bolt as the stainless battery tray wouldn't go in with that bolt still in place. We were going to eliminate it as it seemed to be a ground replication as the Generac will be grounded to the frame along with the batteries. But, are we making a mistake? And we notice a lot of grounds in the 12V schematic at various places to either the frame or the body. Is that just for convenience or a matter of necessity? Isn't the body well connected to the frame so that grounding to one is as good as grounding to the other?
It seems like we don't run out of questions. You guys have helped us tremendously so far. I don't know how we could be doing the stuff we're doing without this forum.
Thanks all!
Mickey/Chris
1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing/Gregory MI
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You are playing with two separate ground systems with that generator. There are actually three separate systems.
1. 12 DC for the house or body which is the aluminum body of the coach
2. 12 DC for the engine system which is the engine block.
3. 120 volt AC "green wire" safety ground which is attached to the aluminum body (NOT the Steel frame).
The 2 you are playing with are obviously items 1 and 3.
The steel frame is used as a cross connection path between items 1 and 2. There is a braided strap between the aluminum body and frame located located on the passenger side front across the front body mount. There is a second cross connection between the engine which is a braided strap located on the rear of the transmission across the one of the transmission mounts. That is it a base coach WITHOUT a generator installed.
When a generator is installed there is a second aluminum body to frame cross connection located in the Generator compartment. This is the one you are asking about.
In theory you are working with one cable for safety ground and a second 12 DC current carrying cable. I'm not sure how Generac treats these two separate grounds and I do not have any wiring diagrams for a Generac.
There is also one other grounding consideration with a generator and that is 120 VAC neutral. The neutral is connected to green wire ground ONLY at the power source. In the case of shore power these two are connected together at the power source (usually the transformer or the meter box). When you move the GMC power plug to the generator these two are connected together at the generator. Again I do not know how Generac handles this.
I'm afraid I may have confused you more than I helped.
There is a presentation that I did a few years back on GMC grounding. It is located on the GMC Eastern States web site. You might want to look at it and see if I can confuse you even more.
http://www.gmceast.com/technical/Burton_Grounding_GMC_Motorhome.pdf
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Generator ground to frame and body [message #209232 is a reply to message #209231] |
Thu, 30 May 2013 02:18 |
mickeysss
Messages: 1476
Registered: January 2012
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This is a very great big deal presentation
> http://www.gmceast.com/technical/Burton_Grounding_GMC_Motorhome.pdf
thanks. mickey :-)
anaheim ca. 77 palm beach.
On May 30, 2013, at 12:05 AM, Ken Burton wrote:
>
>
> Mickey Szilagyi wrote on Wed, 29 May 2013 16:22
>> We're still working on getting a Generac PrimePact 50 into our 26 foot coach. Everything is going well and we're getting close to testing it - before we actually put it into the compartment. By the way it fits but barely and same with the stainless golf cart battery tray, barely.
>>
>> We noticed on the 12V schematic there are two grounds that connect to the same lug on the generator. One goes to the frame and one goes to the body. We're assuming, and hopefully correctly, that the body ground is basically to some aluminum part of the coach body and the frame ground is to the steel frame underneath the coach. We will use the same frame ground that the Onan was attached to. There was a bolt through the aluminum at the front right of the battery compartment that had large cables running to it when we first started this project and were removing stuff. We took pictures so we have a record of what went where. But we had to remove that battery compartment bolt as the stainless battery tray wouldn't go in with that bolt still in place. We were going to eliminate it as it seemed to be a ground replication as the Generac will be grounded to the frame along with the batteries. But, are we making a mistake? And we notice a lot of grounds in the 12V schemat
i
> c at various places to either the frame or the body. Is that just for convenience or a matter of necessity? Isn't the body well connected to the frame so that grounding to one is as good as grounding to the other?
>>
>> It seems like we don't run out of questions. You guys have helped us tremendously so far. I don't know how we could be doing the stuff we're doing without this forum.
>>
>> Thanks all!
>>
>> Mickey/Chris
>> 1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing/Gregory MI
>
>
> You are playing with two separate ground systems with that generator. There are actually three separate systems.
>
> 1. 12 DC for the house or body which is the aluminum body of the coach
>
> 2. 12 DC for the engine system which is the engine block.
>
> 3. 120 volt AC "green wire" safety ground which is attached to the aluminum body (NOT the Steel frame).
>
> The 2 you are playing with are obviously items 1 and 3.
>
> The steel frame is used as a cross connection path between items 1 and 2. There is a braided strap between the aluminum body and frame located located on the passenger side front across the front body mount. There is a second cross connection between the engine which is a braided strap located on the rear of the transmission across the one of the transmission mounts. That is it a base coach WITHOUT a generator installed.
>
> When a generator is installed there is a second aluminum body to frame cross connection located in the Generator compartment. This is the one you are asking about.
>
> In theory you are working with one cable for safety ground and a second 12 DC current carrying cable. I'm not sure how Generac treats these two separate grounds and I do not have any wiring diagrams for a Generac.
>
> There is also one other grounding consideration with a generator and that is 120 VAC neutral. The neutral is connected to green wire ground ONLY at the power source. In the case of shore power these two are connected together at the power source (usually the transformer or the meter box). When you move the GMC power plug to the generator these two are connected together at the generator. Again I do not know how Generac handles this.
>
> I'm afraid I may have confused you more than I helped.
>
> There is a presentation that I did a few years back on GMC grounding. It is located on the GMC Eastern States web site. You might want to look at it and see if I can confuse you even more.
>
> http://www.gmceast.com/technical/Burton_Grounding_GMC_Motorhome.pdf
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
> _______________________________________________
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> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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| Re: Generator ground to frame and body [message #209236 is a reply to message #209231] |
Thu, 30 May 2013 06:43 |
mickey szilagyi
Messages: 273
Registered: January 2013
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Ken,
Thanks! Yes, this is a bit confusing but it is a great help as we can do this as long as we know what it is we're dealing with. We'll read your pdf presentation and digest what you explained. In the last few weeks we have been working on the electrical hookups to the Generac and it is slowly coming together. I don't have time right now but will look at all this hopefully in the next few days. We have the Generac manual and I'll check for a electrical schematic and, if you don't mind, if we have any questions where it is different than how the Onan was wired we'll get back to you on the forum.
Thanks again,
Mickey/Chris
1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing/Gregory MI
Mickey
1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI
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| Re: Generator ground to frame and body [message #209287 is a reply to message #209236] |
Thu, 30 May 2013 13:37 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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I'm headed to the Hamilton work rally today. I probably will not be checking GMCnet much until next week. Feel free to PM or email me if necessary. I might miss a posting to the forum.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: Generator ground to frame and body [message #210418 is a reply to message #209231] |
Sat, 08 June 2013 23:26 |
lw8000
Messages: 201
Registered: July 2012
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 1
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| Ken Burton wrote on Thu, 30 May 2013 02:05 |
There is also one other grounding consideration with a generator and that is 120 VAC neutral. The neutral is connected to green wire ground ONLY at the power source. In the case of shore power these two are connected together at the power source (usually the transformer or the meter box). When you move the GMC power plug to the generator these two are connected together at the generator. Again I do not know how Generac handles this.
|
I do have a question regarding this. I'm working with Mickey (original poster of this thread) on this same Generac Primepact 50g.
We have the original two heavy gauge black wires that run through the conduit from the generator area to that female 4-prong receptacle in the electrical area. When I tested what the two heavy gauge wires go to, I discovered one of the wires goes to the two "hot" prongs on that receptacle, and the other wire to the "neutral" and "ground" prongs on the receptacle. So, it appears that the neutral and ground are connected together somewhere already before the receptacle.
This Generac has 3 wires coming out of it: a red (hot), white (neutral), and green (ground). I looked inside the Generac's electric box and see that the green (ground) and white (neutral) are connected together. Knowing this, do we need to connect the green (ground) wire coming out from the Generac to something, or does the fact that the GMC already connects the neutral to the ground already taking care of this for us? In this case my thought was to connect only the red (hot) and white (neutral) from the Generac to those two corresponding "hot" and "neutral" black heavy gauge wires in the generator compartment.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Thank you!
--
Chris
Chris S. -
77 Kingsley, 3.70 FD, mostly OEM -
S.E. Michigan
[Updated on: Sat, 08 June 2013 23:35] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Generator ground to frame and body [message #210431 is a reply to message #210418] |
Sun, 09 June 2013 01:40 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| lw8000 wrote on Sat, 08 June 2013 23:26 |
| Ken Burton wrote on Thu, 30 May 2013 02:05 |
There is also one other grounding consideration with a generator and that is 120 VAC neutral. The neutral is connected to green wire ground ONLY at the power source. In the case of shore power these two are connected together at the power source (usually the transformer or the meter box). When you move the GMC power plug to the generator these two are connected together at the generator. Again I do not know how Generac handles this.
|
I do have a question regarding this. I'm working with Mickey (original poster of this thread) on this same Generac Primepact 50g.
We have the original two heavy gauge black wires that run through the conduit from the generator area to that female 4-prong receptacle in the electrical area. When I tested what the two heavy gauge wires go to, I discovered one of the wires goes to the two "hot" prongs on that receptacle, and the other wire to the "neutral" and "ground" prongs on the receptacle. So, it appears that the neutral and ground are connected together somewhere already before the receptacle.
This Generac has 3 wires coming out of it: a red (hot), white (neutral), and green (ground). I looked inside the Generac's electric box and see that the green (ground) and white (neutral) are connected together. Knowing this, do we need to connect the green (ground) wire coming out from the Generac to something, or does the fact that the GMC already connects the neutral to the ground already taking care of this for us? In this case my thought was to connect only the red (hot) and white (neutral) from the Generac to those two corresponding "hot" and "neutral" black heavy gauge wires in the generator compartment.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Thank you!
--
Chris
|
Chris, I think you have it correct.
With the original Onan installed the green wire to neutral connection was done at the 4 prong female receptical and inside the generator. It sounds like with the Generac the green wire to neutral connection is also done at the generator.
You only need one Green wire to neutral connection but in this case I see no reason not to have both of them. If you were to try to eliminate the green to neutral connection at the 4 prong receptical then you would need to run an additional wire for the green wire ground between the Generac to the ground pin of the 4 prong receptical. Why bother?
I would do exactly what you suggested and only use the existing 2 wires.
I hope I did not confuse you.
Call my home phone if you want to talk about it. My number is on the black list in Hebron, Indiana
Ken B.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: Generator ground to frame and body [message #210437 is a reply to message #210431] |
Sun, 09 June 2013 06:43 |
lw8000
Messages: 201
Registered: July 2012
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 1
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| Ken Burton wrote on Sun, 09 June 2013 01:40 |
I would do exactly what you suggested and only use the existing 2 wires.
I hope I did not confuse you.
Call my home phone if you want to talk about it. My number is on the black list in Hebron, Indiana
Ken B.
|
Thanks a bunch, Ken. This makes perfect sense and I just wanted to make sure I was understanding everything correctly, that that we didn't have to run another wire through the conduit that wasn't necessary. And most of all, that we wire this so that it is SAFE. Thank you for all of your help with this!
--
Chris
Chris S. -
77 Kingsley, 3.70 FD, mostly OEM -
S.E. Michigan
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| Re: Generator ground to frame and body [message #210438 is a reply to message #210431] |
Sun, 09 June 2013 07:14 |
mickey szilagyi
Messages: 273
Registered: January 2013
Karma: 0
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Ken, you're a great help with all this and we really appreciate it.
We're trying to figure out how the 12V power gets from the house batteries to the house 12V circuits. We have a 12V schematic that shows all the wiring circuits but just want to make sure we understand where everything is. Back in the house battery compartment that very heavy black cable that runs off the solenoid and disappears through the back wall into the rear of the coach, according to the schematic, runs to a rear battery junction. Where exactly is that rear battery junction? Is it right behind that wall or somewhere else? Again looking at the schematic, there is a 10 gauge wire that then runs from the rear battery junction to the house 12V circuits and a heavy cable that runs to the auxiliary battery switch which is the engine battery boost system. So, basically, the house 12V power from the house batteries starts out by running through that heavy black cable running off that rear solenoid, correct? And, again, if you would please, where exactly is the location of the rear battery junction box.
Thanks again for all your help and the offer to take a phone call if we run into a problem.
Mickey (and Chris)
77 Kingsley, Lansing MI
Mickey
1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI
[Updated on: Sun, 09 June 2013 07:16] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: [GMCnet] Generator ground to frame and body [message #210457 is a reply to message #210438] |
Sun, 09 June 2013 09:46 |
Emery Stora
Messages: 959
Registered: January 2011
Karma: 4
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Your rear battery positive cable runs to the right side of the battery box. There is a solenoid there and also a round black 50 amp circuit breaker. From the other side of the circuit breaker the cable runs to the 12 bolt fuse block in the small cabinet across from your bathroom. All 12 volt house circuits come through the 12 volt fuses.
The rear solenoid is activated by the boost switch in the dash. That switch activates the front solenoid to connect the front and rear batteries together. It also activates the rear solenoid which sole purpose is to short across the 40 amp circuit breaker so that you can draw more than 50 amps from the rear battery in case needed to start the engine. If your front battery was dead then you would draw more than 50 amps when you hit the boost switch.
I also have a 77 Kingsley so if you need more information let me know.
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO
On Jun 9, 2013, at 8:14 AM, Mickey Szilagyi <mickey@apex-internet.com> wrote:
>
>
> Ken, you're a great help with all this and we really appreciate it.
>
> We're trying to figure out how the 12V power gets from the house batteries to the house 12V circuits. We have a 12V schematic that shows all the wiring circuits but just want to make sure we understand where everything is. Back in the house battery compartment that very heavy black cable that runs off the solenoid and disappears through the back wall into the rear of the coach, according to the schematic, runs to a rear battery junction. Where exactly is that rear battery junction? Is it right behind that wall or somewhere else? Again looking at the schematic, there is a 10 gauge wire that then runs from the rear battery junction to the house 12V circuits and a heavy cable that runs to the auxiliary battery switch which is the engine battery boost system. So, basically, the house 12V power from the house batteries starts out by running through that heavy black cable running off that rear solenoid, corrct? And, again, if you would please, where exactly is the location
o
> f the rear battery junction box.
>
> Thanks again for all your help and the offer to take a phone call if we run into a problem.
>
> Mickey (and Chris)
> 77 Kingsley, Lansing MI
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: [GMCnet] Generator ground to frame and body [message #210471 is a reply to message #210457] |
Sun, 09 June 2013 13:51 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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I believe the "rear battery junction" you are looking for is behind the wall in the compartment where the house fuses and converter are located.
Ken B.
| Emery Stora wrote on Sun, 09 June 2013 09:46 |
Your rear battery positive cable runs to the right side of the battery box. There is a solenoid there and also a round black 50 amp circuit breaker. From the other side of the circuit breaker the cable runs to the 12 bolt fuse block in the small cabinet across from your bathroom. All 12 volt house circuits come through the 12 volt fuses.
The rear solenoid is activated by the boost switch in the dash. That switch activates the front solenoid to connect the front and rear batteries together. It also activates the rear solenoid which sole purpose is to short across the 40 amp circuit breaker so that you can draw more than 50 amps from the rear battery in case needed to start the engine. If your front battery was dead then you would draw more than 50 amps when you hit the boost switch.
I also have a 77 Kingsley so if you need more information let me know.
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO
On Jun 9, 2013, at 8:14 AM, Mickey Szilagyi <mickey@apex-internet.com> wrote:
>
>
> Ken, you're a great help with all this and we really appreciate it.
>
> We're trying to figure out how the 12V power gets from the house batteries to the house 12V circuits. We have a 12V schematic that shows all the wiring circuits but just want to make sure we understand where everything is. Back in the house battery compartment that very heavy black cable that runs off the solenoid and disappears through the back wall into the rear of the coach, according to the schematic, runs to a rear battery junction. Where exactly is that rear battery junction? Is it right behind that wall or somewhere else? Again looking at the schematic, there is a 10 gauge wire that then runs from the rear battery junction to the house 12V circuits and a heavy cable that runs to the auxiliary battery switch which is the engine battery boost system. So, basically, the house 12V power from the house batteries starts out by running through that heavy black cable running off that rear solenoid, corrct? And, again, if you would please, where exactly is the location
o
> f the rear battery junction box.
>
> Thanks again for all your help and the offer to take a phone call if we run into a problem.
>
> Mickey (and Chris)
> 77 Kingsley, Lansing MI
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
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Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Generator ground to frame and body [message #210473 is a reply to message #210471] |
Sun, 09 June 2013 14:20 |
Emery Stora
Messages: 959
Registered: January 2011
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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That is a ground "junction". It is directly behind the buzz box along the friver's side wall. It is a connection to the aluminum framing so it should be cleaned up and a good coating of dielectric grease should be applied to the post when the wires are reassembled to it.
Emery Stora
On Jun 9, 2013, at 2:51 PM, Ken Burton <n9cv@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> I believe the "rear battery junction" you are looking for is behind the wall in the compartment where the house fuses and converter are located.
>
> Ken B.
>
> Emery Stora wrote on Sun, 09 June 2013 09:46
>> Your rear battery positive cable runs to the right side of the battery box. There is a solenoid there and also a round black 50 amp circuit breaker. From the other side of the circuit breaker the cable runs to the 12 bolt fuse block in the small cabinet across from your bathroom. All 12 volt house circuits come through the 12 volt fuses.
>>
>> The rear solenoid is activated by the boost switch in the dash. That switch activates the front solenoid to connect the front and rear batteries together. It also activates the rear solenoid which sole purpose is to short across the 40 amp circuit breaker so that you can draw more than 50 amps from the rear battery in case needed to start the engine. If your front battery was dead then you would draw more than 50 amps when you hit the boost switch.
>> I also have a 77 Kingsley so if you need more information let me know.
>>
>> Emery Stora
>> 77 Kingsley
>> Frederick, CO
>>
>> On Jun 9, 2013, at 8:14 AM, Mickey Szilagyi <mickey@apex-internet.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Ken, you're a great help with all this and we really appreciate it.
>>>
>>> We're trying to figure out how the 12V power gets from the house batteries to the house 12V circuits. We have a 12V schematic that shows all the wiring circuits but just want to make sure we understand where everything is. Back in the house battery compartment that very heavy black cable that runs off the solenoid and disappears through the back wall into the rear of the coach, according to the schematic, runs to a rear battery junction. Where exactly is that rear battery junction? Is it right behind that wall or somewhere else? Again looking at the schematic, there is a 10 gauge wire that then runs from the rear battery junction to the house 12V circuits and a heavy cable that runs to the auxiliary battery switch which is the engine battery boost system. So, basically, the house 12V power from the house batteries starts out by running through that heavy black cable running off that rear solenoid, corrct? And, again, if you would please, where exactly is the locati
> on
>> o
>>> f the rear battery junction box.
>>>
>>> Thanks again for all your help and the offer to take a phone call if we run into a problem.
>>>
>>> Mickey (and Chris)
>>> 77 Kingsley, Lansing MI
>>> _______________________________________________
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> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Generator ground to frame and body [message #210489 is a reply to message #210473] |
Sun, 09 June 2013 16:49 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Wow! you are correct I remembered that one wrong. Where does that the 10 ga. wire feeding the fuse block go? I know it goes to the converter and then how does the circuit get back to the battery(s)? I have forgotten.
Ken
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Generator ground to frame and body [message #210513 is a reply to message #210489] |
Sun, 09 June 2013 19:11 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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I just had someone send me a photo in a private email. The photo shows me that I was correct. The connection is behind the wall where the fuses and converter are located. Sorry for the confusion.
Ken B.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: Generator ground to frame and body [message #210553 is a reply to message #209172] |
Mon, 10 June 2013 06:50 |
mickey szilagyi
Messages: 273
Registered: January 2013
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Well then, thank you Bob as well. Bob has given us a bunch of help on other GMC matters. We've come a ways and have a ways to go but we're making progress. We bought 2 Duracell EGC2 batteries this past week from SAMs. We had to grind out the ends of the battery tray we got from JimK to get the batteries to fit into the tray but it works. It would be good if the tray was 1/2 inch longer. On Saturday we started the coach and temporarily wired in the Generac PrimePact 50G and ran it to make sure our wiring is the right stuff. So far so good. We're hoping to get the generator into the coach in the next couple of weeks.
We've received a lot of help from a number of people on this forum and without it we'd be lost. We can't say how much we appreciate it.
Thanks everyone!
Mickey
77 Kingsley, 403, Lasning, MI
Mickey
1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI
[Updated on: Mon, 10 June 2013 06:51] Report message to a moderator |
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