| OEM battery cables [message #208804] |
Sun, 26 May 2013 06:58  |
mickey szilagyi
Messages: 273
Registered: January 2013
Karma: 0
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We're slowly making progress on our generator replacement and are now getting into the electrical system. My son will be asking for help identifying some of the components on another thread shortly but here's one thing we would appreciate input on.
There are a lot of heavy gauge battery type cables running from place to place. The ones on our coach seem to be fine, no breaks and the insulation seems OK too. But they are dirty and the ends are heavily corroded. Dirt and green corrosion is everywhere and we're wondering if it has penetrated into the end fittings and will cause a conductivity problem if we use them in their current condition.
Question is then is the above a problem. If so, can we clean the ends somehow and if so how? If we must we can cut the ends off and replace them but we'd sure like to use them as is as they seem sound except for the dirt and corrosion.
Thanks again to all for your input. As always, you all have been a tremendous help in the past.
Mickey/Chris
1977 Kingsley, 403, mostly OEM, Lansing/Gregory MI
Mickey
1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI
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| Re: [GMCnet] OEM battery cables [message #208813 is a reply to message #208804] |
Sun, 26 May 2013 09:40  |
powerjon
Messages: 2446
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Mickey & Chris,
Battery cables can be tricky to determine that they are sound and good to use. I would suggest that you take the worst one and clean the insulated wire portion with WD40 to remove the dirt and grease. I would also suggest that you remove and replace the end. If it is the battery terminal end and take a good look at the internals of the wiring under the insulation. Strip about 1" to see if the corrosion has wicked down the wiring. If it has I would replace the cable which is available at any autoparts place. A 4 Gauge cable is more that large enough for most battery connections. If the cable look good, just put a new end and move on. You should use a corrosion protectorant at the battery connections. The little red and green pads are marginal at best. You can buy all sort or stuff from the Autoparts store, but I use just plain chassis grease. My fatherinlaw who was a mechanic showed me that 40 years ago and it work fine and is cheap. Keeps the battery acid and fum
es from attacking the terminals. If you're having a larger corrosion issues with the house batteries then you might be having an issue with the charger/converter. If you still have the "Buzz Box" then you need to consider getting that out of there and putting in a newer charger/converter that will not boil and kill your batteries. Progressive Dynamics offer good units with the Charge Wizard that are perfect. The PD9245 (45 Amp) is one that most use.
http://www.progressivedyn.com/rv_converter_pd9245c_2.html ($144.95)
http://www.progressivedyn.com/pendant.html ($10.95)
You can alway find these too on Amazon and Ebay at good pricing too.
JR Wright
GMC Great Laker MHC
GMC Eastern States
GMCMHI
78 Buskirk 30' Stretch
1975 Avion (Under Reconstruction)
Michigan
On May 26, 2013, at 7:58 AM, Mickey Szilagyi <mickey@apex-internet.com> wrote:
>
>
> We're slowly making progress on our generator replacement and are now getting into the electrical system. My son will be asking for help identifying some of the components on another thread shortly but here's one thing we would appreciate input on.
>
> There are a lot of heavy gauge battery type cables running from place to place. The ones on our coach seem to be fine, no breaks and the insulation seems OK too. But they are dirty and the ends are heavily corroded. Dirt and green corrosion is everywhere and we're wondering if it has penetrated into the end fittings and will cause a conductivity problem if we use them in their current condition.
>
> Question is then is the above a problem. If so, can we clean the ends somehow and if so how? If we must we can cut the ends off and replace them but we'd sure like to use them as is as they seem sound except for the dirt and corrosion.
>
> Thanks again to all for your input. As always, you all have been a tremendous help in the past.
>
> Mickey/Chris
> 1977 Kingsley, 403, mostly OEM, Lansing/Gregory MI
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J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
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| Re: OEM battery cables [message #208854 is a reply to message #208819] |
Sun, 26 May 2013 12:50 |
mickey szilagyi
Messages: 273
Registered: January 2013
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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JR and Matt,
Great help and thanks to both of you. We're going to have a look at the cables and probably replace the ends as you suggest. And we also are looking to replace the buzz box. Some of the OEM cables are 2 gauge, pretty heavy stuff. We're planning on doing exactly what you have commented on. There's cable available bulk lengths on Amazon and elsewhere. We haven't checked locally yet.
We'll be working on this tomorrow. We just purchased the stainless battery tray and it looks pretty sturdy. It fits by a frog's hair into that part of the compartment, no room to spare actually in the whole compartment. Everything is fitting but not by much. We are placing the battery tray back a little so everything fits so the compartment door closes properly. We had to notch out a small section front/bottom of the partition between the battery and generator area so the latch that secures the battery tray can function. We are replacing the partition as everyone recommends as is.
The coach is stored and worked on just north of Gregory. We've squeezed it into Chris's barn.
Thanks again,
Mickey/Chris
77 Kingsley, 403, Lansing/Gregory
Mickey
1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI
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| Re: [GMCnet] OEM battery cables [message #208860 is a reply to message #208854] |
Sun, 26 May 2013 14:24 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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I would suggest replacing the cables.
The clamp on ends arenot very satisfactory. Soldering is better
genebut factory swedged is better
FREE WIFI @ Mickey D
On May 26, 2013, at 10:50 AM, Mickey Szilagyi <mickey@apex-internet.com> wrote:
>
>
> JR and Matt,
>
> Great help and thanks to both of you. We're going to have a look at the cables and probably replace the ends as you suggest. And we also are looking to replace the buzz box. Some of the OEM cables are 2 gauge, pretty heavy stuff. We're planning on doing exactly what you have commented on. There's cable available bulk lengths on Amazon and elsewhere. We haven't checked locally yet.
>
> We'll be working on this tomorrow. We just purchased the stainless battery tray and it looks pretty sturdy. It fits by a frog's hair into that part of the compartment, no room to spare actually in the whole compartment. Everything is fitting but not by much. We are placing the battery tray back a little so everything fits so the compartment door closes properly. We had to notch out a small section front/bottom of the partition between the battery and generator area so the latch that secures the battery tray can function. We are replacing the partition as everyone recommends as is.
>
> The coach is stored and worked on just north of Gregory. We've squeezed it into Chris's barn.
>
> Thanks again,
> Mickey/Chris
> 77 Kingsley, 403, Lansing/Gregory
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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