Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Re: [GMCnet] Finally about to pull the 403
| Re: [GMCnet] Finally about to pull the 403 [message #208787] |
Sat, 25 May 2013 20:36  |
KB
Messages: 1262
Registered: September 2009
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Hey Kerry,
I'll be really interested in what you decide. We might be
in the same boat -- a very worrying knock suddenly started on our
trip this week, and there are some silver, non-metallic flakes
in the oil filter. Just sent an oil sample off to Blackstone,
so we'll see.
I'm thinking if it's serious, I could probably just manage
swapping the engine if I take it really slow. Not likely that
I can do anything in terms of refreshing or rebuilding on my own
though since I have zero experience there. The cost of an
S&J engine wouldn't go far at Bay Area mechanic rates,
so it's an attractive option. S&J says it includes everything
except the air cleaner, ignition, valve covers, timing cover,
intake manifold, and oil pan.
The other thought is to steal the engine from our 23' yard ornament
coach, which leaks oil but runs great. That would leave us with a gutted
dead coach to deal with though, and we don't know the history of that engine.
And then there's the question of taking just the engine or the
whole front clip. A lot to think about.
Anyway, good luck, and please let us know how it goes.
thanks
Karen
1973 23'
1975 26'
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Karen
1975 26'
San Jose, CA
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| Re: [GMCnet] Finally about to pull the 403 [message #208823 is a reply to message #208787] |
Sun, 26 May 2013 10:18  |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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| KB wrote on Sat, 25 May 2013 21:36 |
Hey Kerry,
I'll be really interested in what you decide. We might be in the same boat -- a very worrying knock suddenly started on our trip this week, and there are some silver, non-metallic flakes in the oil filter. Just sent an oil sample off to Blackstone, so we'll see.
I'm thinking if it's serious, I could probably just manage swapping the engine if I take it really slow. Not likely that I can do anything in terms of refreshing or rebuilding on my own though since I have zero experience there. The cost of an S&J engine wouldn't go far at Bay Area mechanic rates, so it's an attractive option. S&J says it includes everything except the air cleaner, ignition, valve covers, timing cover, intake manifold, and oil pan.
The other thought is to steal the engine from our 23' yard ornament coach, which leaks oil but runs great. That would leave us with a gutted dead coach to deal with though, and we don't know the history of that engine.
And then there's the question of taking just the engine or the
whole front clip. A lot to think about.
Anyway, good luck, and please let us know how it goes.
thanks
Karen
1973 23'
1975 26'
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Karen,
Sorry to hear about the knock.
You say the flakes were non-metalic...
Do You Really Mean Non-Magnetic??
Either case, they are not good, but non-magnetic means you might save the block with some work and I can't guess were non-metalic would come from.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: [GMCnet] Finally about to pull the 403 [message #208825 is a reply to message #208787] |
Sun, 26 May 2013 10:29 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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If it's quiet at idle and starts to clatter at engine speed (not 1/2 speed) pace starting at about 1500 RPM it's probably a connecting rod bearing at the crank end. The extra slop can allow the piston to rap the ledge on the head once piston speed is high enough. Sounds worse than it is but will have to be fixed before ruining the crank. Now if you can detemine which one it is by plug wire pulling and sound pattern changing--- wondering if its worth lifting engine enough to pull the pan and rebearing that rod. However what caused it is the question and that could be an oiling issue needed full deep cleaning. Out of coach unfortunately.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] Finally about to pull the 403 [message #208826 is a reply to message #208787] |
Sun, 26 May 2013 10:25 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Karen,
If your engine developed "a worrying knock" I'd say it's stuffed (Aussie for shot)!
Since this weekend is the start of summer I assume that you don't want to loose the GMC for the summer. While probably the most
labor intensive I reckon the following is the quickest and most cost effective solution.
Before you pull the engine perform the following to try and determine the condition of the 23' "yard ornament" engine:
1) do a compression test
2) run it up to operating temp and check the idle vacuum and oil pressure
3) run the rpm up to around 2000 and check the vacuum and oil pressure again
4) drain the oil and send a sample to Blackstone
This should give you a picture of the condition of the engine to decide whether it's worth pulling and using AS IS.
If you decide to do so once you get it out put the engine on a stand:
1) remove the oil pan and check the crankcase for sludge and the oil pump intake for:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/455-r-amp-r-engine-work/p10860.html
2) remove the intake manifold and install block off plates
Install the engine in your '26 foot GMC and rebuild it at your leisure.
3) remove the valve covers and check for sludge and try and see what the valve guide seals look like.
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: KB
Hey Kerry,
I'll be really interested in what you decide. We might be
in the same boat -- a very worrying knock suddenly started on our
trip this week, and there are some silver, non-metallic flakes
in the oil filter. Just sent an oil sample off to Blackstone,
so we'll see.
I'm thinking if it's serious, I could probably just manage
swapping the engine if I take it really slow. Not likely that
I can do anything in terms of refreshing or rebuilding on my own
though since I have zero experience there. The cost of an
S&J engine wouldn't go far at Bay Area mechanic rates,
so it's an attractive option. S&J says it includes everything
except the air cleaner, ignition, valve covers, timing cover,
intake manifold, and oil pan.
The other thought is to steal the engine from our 23' yard ornament
coach, which leaks oil but runs great. That would leave us with a gutted
dead coach to deal with though, and we don't know the history of that engine.
And then there's the question of taking just the engine or the
whole front clip. A lot to think about.
Anyway, good luck, and please let us know how it goes.
thanks
Karen
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GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Finally about to pull the 403 [message #208830 is a reply to message #208787] |
Sun, 26 May 2013 11:12 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Karen,
Below I said: "Install the engine in your '26 foot GMC and rebuild it at your leisure."
I meant; "Install the 23 foot engine in your 26 foot GMC and rebuild the engine you remove at your leisure."
Regards,
Rob
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Mueller [mailto:robmueller@iinet.net.au]
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2013 10:25 AM
To: 'gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org'
Subject: RE: [GMCnet] Finally about to pull the 403
Karen,
If your engine developed "a worrying knock" I'd say it's stuffed (Aussie for shot)!
Since this weekend is the start of summer I assume that you don't want to loose the GMC for the summer. While probably the most
labor intensive I reckon the following is the quickest and most cost effective solution.
Before you pull the engine perform the following to try and determine the condition of the 23' "yard ornament" engine:
1) do a compression test
2) run it up to operating temp and check the idle vacuum and oil pressure
3) run the rpm up to around 2000 and check the vacuum and oil pressure again
4) drain the oil and send a sample to Blackstone
This should give you a picture of the condition of the engine to decide whether it's worth pulling and using AS IS.
If you decide to do so once you get it out put the engine on a stand:
1) remove the oil pan and check the crankcase for sludge and the oil pump intake for:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/455-r-amp-r-engine-work/p10860.html
2) remove the intake manifold and install block off plates
Install the engine in your '26 foot GMC and rebuild it at your leisure.
3) remove the valve covers and check for sludge and try and see what the valve guide seals look like.
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: KB
Hey Kerry,
I'll be really interested in what you decide. We might be
in the same boat -- a very worrying knock suddenly started on our
trip this week, and there are some silver, non-metallic flakes
in the oil filter. Just sent an oil sample off to Blackstone,
so we'll see.
I'm thinking if it's serious, I could probably just manage
swapping the engine if I take it really slow. Not likely that
I can do anything in terms of refreshing or rebuilding on my own
though since I have zero experience there. The cost of an
S&J engine wouldn't go far at Bay Area mechanic rates,
so it's an attractive option. S&J says it includes everything
except the air cleaner, ignition, valve covers, timing cover,
intake manifold, and oil pan.
The other thought is to steal the engine from our 23' yard ornament
coach, which leaks oil but runs great. That would leave us with a gutted
dead coach to deal with though, and we don't know the history of that engine.
And then there's the question of taking just the engine or the
whole front clip. A lot to think about.
Anyway, good luck, and please let us know how it goes.
thanks
Karen
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Finally about to pull the 403 [message #208847 is a reply to message #208830] |
Sun, 26 May 2013 12:23 |
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mike miller
Messages: 3576
Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Yah, what he said. 
IE: Check out the engine in the 23. If good, pull it to be put in the 26. Rebuild the old one from the 26 to either be put back or in the 23. While there are things to watch out for, rebuilding engines is not rocket surgery.
But while you have the engine out of the 23 and before it goes into the 26, do what Kelvin did with his.
<http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3954-455-r-amp-r-engine-work.html>
Just my thoughts....
| Robert Mueller wrote on Sun, 26 May 2013 09:12 |
Karen,
Below I said: "Install the engine in your '26 foot GMC and rebuild it at your leisure."
I meant; "Install the 23 foot engine in your 26 foot GMC and rebuild the engine you remove at your leisure."
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Mueller [mailto:
Subject: RE: [GMCnet] Finally about to pull the 403
Karen,
If your engine developed "a worrying knock" I'd say it's stuffed (Aussie for shot)!
Since this weekend is the start of summer I assume that you don't want to loose the GMC for the summer. While probably the most
labor intensive I reckon the following is the quickest and most cost effective solution.
Before you pull the engine perform the following to try and determine the condition of the 23' "yard ornament" engine:
1) do a compression test
2) run it up to operating temp and check the idle vacuum and oil pressure
3) run the rpm up to around 2000 and check the vacuum and oil pressure again
4) drain the oil and send a sample to Blackstone
This should give you a picture of the condition of the engine to decide whether it's worth pulling and using AS IS.
If you decide to do so once you get it out put the engine on a stand:
1) remove the oil pan and check the crankcase for sludge and the oil pump intake for:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/455-r-amp-r-engine-work/p10860.html
2) remove the intake manifold and install block off plates
Install the engine in your '26 foot GMC and rebuild it at your leisure.
3) remove the valve covers and check for sludge and try and see what the valve guide seals look like.
Regards,
Rob M.
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Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo'
http://m000035.blogspot.com
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