Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » First time greaser...
| First time greaser... [message #207741] |
Tue, 14 May 2013 18:55  |
werewilfs
Messages: 329
Registered: July 2012
Location: Rappahannock County, VA
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With all the conversation about greasing I'd like to ask a perhaps dumb question for a newbie.
I have ready through the manual several times and am still a bit confused by the whole process. What type grease is best and what type of grease gun should I get and where can I find one? I have seen the bdub page with recommended types listed but can't find that type at any of the auto parts "superstores." Do I need to go to a specialty store to find the grease?
I know the debate is heated about how often it should be done so I'm not necessarily worried about that conversation now. Just more worried about getting the right parts and getting under the beast and getting her all lubed up.
Thanks!
Jared & Stefanie Kohl
Rappahannock County, VA
1973 Painted Desert "Onslow"
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| Re: First time greaser... [message #207742 is a reply to message #207741] |
Tue, 14 May 2013 19:11  |
tphipps
Messages: 3005
Registered: August 2004
Location: Spanish Fort, AL
Karma: 9
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SynPower grease appears to be the current Concensus. Any auto store should have it or can get it. Price seems to be all over the place - $7 to $15. Use a standard grease gun, hand pump or air powered, your choice.
Wipe the old fitting clean, no sense in pumping in dirty grease. Search about using a soda straw to clean out the boggie pins old grease before greasing them.
Bon Venture.
Tom, MS II
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
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| Re: [GMCnet] First time greaser... [message #207749 is a reply to message #207742] |
Tue, 14 May 2013 20:37 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
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here
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/gmc-chemicals-and-tools/p29595-moly-grease.html
gene
On Tue, May 14, 2013 at 5:11 PM, Thomas Phipps <tph1pp5@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> SynPower grease appears to be the current Concensus. Any auto store
> should have it or can get it. Price seems to be all over the place - $7 to
> $15. Use a standard grease gun, hand pump or air powered, your choice.
> Wipe the old fitting clean, no sense in pumping in dirty grease. Search
> about using a soda straw to clean out the boggie pins old grease before
> greasing them.
> Bon Venture.
> Tom, MS II
> --
> 1975 GMC Avion, under forever re-construction
> Vicksburg, MS. 3.7 miles from I-20
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“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
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Alternator Protection Cable
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| Re: First time greaser... [message #207750 is a reply to message #207741] |
Tue, 14 May 2013 20:44 |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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Jared,
Since you have a 73 (me too) here is something I wrote a while back...
To grease the bogies
put blocking under the bogie and deflate the bag so the wheel and swing arm are not under pressure.
remove the zerk fittings -- use a plastic drinking straw -- the larger diameter red ones from some deli's works well -- and using the straw insert it into the zerk fitting hole and remove the old (probably dried) grease. The straw length helps you determine if you are getting all the way to the end of the pin.
Now re-install the zerks and add grease. While you are adding grease use a square point shovel under the wheel to raise and lower it to ensure the grease gets in well. I actually used a wooden broom handle last time -- no shovel at the storage lot.
While you are in the area, you might want to check for swing arm -- bogie arm -- play. I start by pulling and pushing on the wheel to see if I feel any give. Then determine if it is from the wheel bearings or if the pins have play within the bogie frame. There are instructions in the MM (maintenance manual) for adjusting the top hats and reducing the play -- but the top hats are usually frozen.
Here is my photo album on bogies for my 73.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5590-1973-gmc-bogies.html
As for the grease -- others have mentioned the synpower -- moly fortified grease.
For a grease gun -- Autozone or even Walmart. I like to buy a rubber brake hose and substitute for the metal neck on the grease gun -- makes it easier to get to some of the fittings.
Dennis
| werewilfs wrote on Tue, 14 May 2013 18:55 |
With all the conversation about greasing I'd like to ask a perhaps dumb question for a newbie.
I have ready through the manual several times and am still a bit confused by the whole process. What type grease is best and what type of grease gun should I get and where can I find one? I have seen the bdub page with recommended types listed but can't find that type at any of the auto parts "superstores." Do I need to go to a specialty store to find the grease?
I know the debate is heated about how often it should be done so I'm not necessarily worried about that conversation now. Just more worried about getting the right parts and getting under the beast and getting her all lubed up.
Thanks!
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Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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| Re: [GMCnet] First time greaser... [message #207753 is a reply to message #207750] |
Tue, 14 May 2013 21:20 |
werewilfs
Messages: 329
Registered: July 2012
Location: Rappahannock County, VA
Karma: 0
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Thanks guys. Very helpful.
________________________________
From: Dennis Sexton <dennisfsexton@aol.com>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 9:44 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] First time greaser...
Jared,
Since you have a 73 (me too) here is something I wrote a while back...
To grease the bogies
put blocking under the bogie and deflate the bag so the wheel and swing arm are not under pressure.
remove the zerk fittings -- use a plastic drinking straw -- the larger diameter red ones from some deli's works well -- and using the straw insert it into the zerk fitting hole and remove the old (probably dried) grease. The straw length helps you determine if you are getting all the way to the end of the pin.
Now re-install the zerks and add grease. While you are adding grease use a square point shovel under the wheel to raise and lower it to ensure the grease gets in well. I actually used a wooden broom handle last time -- no shovel at the storage lot.
While you are in the area, you might want to check for swing arm -- bogie arm -- play. I start by pulling and pushing on the wheel to see if I feel any give. Then determine if it is from the wheel bearings or if the pins have play within the bogie frame. There are instructions in the MM (maintenance manual) for adjusting the top hats and reducing the play -- but the top hats are usually frozen.
Here is my photo album on bogies for my 73.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5590-1973-gmc-bogies.html
As for the grease -- others have mentioned the synpower -- moly fortified grease.
For a grease gun -- Autozone or even Walmart. I like to buy a rubber brake hose and substitute for the metal neck on the grease gun -- makes it easier to get to some of the fittings.
Dennis
werewilfs wrote on Tue, 14 May 2013 18:55
> With all the conversation about greasing I'd like to ask a perhaps dumb question for a newbie.
>
> I have ready through the manual several times and am still a bit confused by the whole process. What type grease is best and what type of grease gun should I get and where can I find one? I have seen the bdub page with recommended types listed but can't find that type at any of the auto parts "superstores." Do I need to go to a specialty store to find the grease?
>
> I know the debate is heated about how often it should be done so I'm not necessarily worried about that conversation now. Just more worried about getting the right parts and getting under the beast and getting her all lubed up.
>
> Thanks!
--
Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Germantown, TN
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Jared & Stefanie Kohl
Rappahannock County, VA
1973 Painted Desert "Onslow"
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| Re: First time greaser... [message #207757 is a reply to message #207741] |
Tue, 14 May 2013 22:53 |
Craig Lechowicz
Messages: 541
Registered: October 2006
Location: Waterford, MI
Karma: 0
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If you happen to own a roofing shingle removing shovel, they are great for wiggling the wheels up and down while greasing bogies. There is a bar welded on the back side that serves as a pivot to move the wheel. If you are more coordinated than me, you can move the shovel up and down with one knee, while standing on one foot, and using both hands to operate the grease gun. Ideally, not falling on arse in the process.
Craig Lechowicz
'77 Kingsley, Waterford, MI
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| Re: [GMCnet] First time greaser... [message #207759 is a reply to message #207757] |
Tue, 14 May 2013 23:09 |
werewilfs
Messages: 329
Registered: July 2012
Location: Rappahannock County, VA
Karma: 0
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I'll be sure to make sure my wife is not in video-recordable distance so as to not end up as part of a YouTube laugh track.
________________________________
From: Craig Lechowicz <craig.lechowicz@sbcglobal.net>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 11:53 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] First time greaser...
If you happen to own a roofing shingle removing shovel, they are great for wiggling the wheels up and down while greasing bogies. There is a bar welded on the back side that serves as a pivot to move the wheel. If you are more coordinated than me, you can move the shovel up and down with one knee, while standing on one foot, and using both hands to operate the grease gun. Ideally, not falling on arse in the process.
--
Craig Lechowicz
'77 Kingsley, Waterford, MI
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Jared & Stefanie Kohl
Rappahannock County, VA
1973 Painted Desert "Onslow"
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| Re: [GMCnet] First time greaser... [message #207765 is a reply to message #207757] |
Tue, 14 May 2013 23:59 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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I gotta confess -- and stir the pot: I've never been able to wrap my mind
around this "shovel under the wheel" thing. Seems to me we're dealing with
one cylinder inside another. We're pumping grease in between the two and
the entire cavity between them should be filled. Now admittedly while just
sitting there, the inner cylinder may be forced tightly against the outer
one (top or bottom, I can't figure out which at this time of night) and
prevent much grease from flowing between them. That's probably not a real
good situation, and the shovel-wiggling might alleviate it. BUT, what
about that bumpy driveway, or the first railroad track, or other obstacle
you cross? Won't that jiggle the inner cylinder around in the outer one
and squuosh the grease from the loose areas into the statically tight
areas?
I just don't see how the grease can fail to flow to every area between the
cylinders as they move in relation to each other, so after once trying (and
not liking) the shovel thing, I quit doing it -- 15 years ago. Even though
I figured they'd be pretty worn when we installed the Manny Brakes a few
weeks ago, they weren't. Good 'nuff for me.
Ken H.
On Tue, May 14, 2013 at 11:53 PM, ... wrote:
>
>
> If you happen to own a roofing shingle removing shovel, they are great for
> wiggling the wheels up and down while greasing bogies.
> --
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: First time greaser... [message #207778 is a reply to message #207741] |
Wed, 15 May 2013 03:38 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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I'll give the same recommendation that I gave others last time. While Valvoline Synthetic moly (MoS2) grease is excellent for almost any place in a GMC, due to it's cost I suggest that it only be used where higher temperatures are a concern. After all that is the basic advantage to using synthetic grease. So in normal grease fittings I use a moly fortified grease. I only use the synthetic stuff in things like wheel bearings where temperature tolerance might be important. In locations like tire rod ends, ball joints, and rear bogies temperature is hardly a problem.
I bought a case of this stuff years ago and still have some. I use it on everything including my John Deere, vehicles, etc.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/travellerreg%3B-extreme-duty-3%25-moly-lithium-complex-nlgi-2-grease-14-oz-cartridge
When it comes to wheel bearings, etc, then I get out my tubes of Valvoline synthetic.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: First time greaser... [message #207785 is a reply to message #207741] |
Wed, 15 May 2013 07:08 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Synpower is around 6 bucks at NAPA. Hard to find in any other chain around here. So if cheap grease is 3 bucks we are really breaking the bank here by splurging. Not.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] First time greaser... [message #207793 is a reply to message #207778] |
Wed, 15 May 2013 07:46 |
Jp Benson
Messages: 649
Registered: October 2011
Location: Fla
Karma: 2
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Good point Ken. I've been greasing my own vehicles for a long time now and have never had a grease related mechanical failure (or even serious wear) with any kind of grease. The last few years I've been using synthetic and don't use enough of it to worry about cost. Well not enough to have two grease guns anyway.
What frustrates me though is that the synthetic greases always leak oily liquid from the gun. If it sits too long, the residual left in the gun is so coagulated that it jams the nozzle. Then I have to dispose of the tube and clean the gun before reuse. Just three weeks ago I went through this procedure. I put the gun with the fresh tube of Valvoline synthetic on a piece of newspaper on my workbench and now the entire sheet of newspaper is saturated with the leaking oil. I once stored my grease gun in a refrigerator but it still leaked. I have to suspect that this also happens inside things like ball joints and bogie bushings as well. Have you ever encountered this problem and how do you deal with it? I'm just about ready to quit using synthetic grease on the theory that "better is the enemy of good enough".
JP
>________________________________
> From: Ken Burton <n9cv@comcast.net>
>To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
>Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 4:38 AM
>Subject: Re: [GMCnet] First time greaser...
>
>
>
>
>I'll give the same recommendation that I gave others last time. While Valvoline Synthetic moly (MoS2) grease is excellent for almost any place in a GMC, due to it's cost I suggest that it only be used where higher temperatures are a concern. After all that is the basic advantage to using synthetic grease. So in normal grease fittings I use a moly fortified grease. I only use the synthetic stuff in things like wheel bearings where temperature tolerance might be important. In locations like tire rod ends, ball joints, and rear bogies temperature is hardly a problem.
>
>I bought a case of this stuff years ago and still have some. I use it on everything including my John Deere, vehicles, etc.
>
>http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/travellerreg%3B-extreme-duty-3%25-moly-lithium-complex-nlgi-2-grease-14-oz-cartridge
>
>When it comes to wheel bearings, etc, then I get out my tubes of Valvoline synthetic.
>
>
>
>--
>Ken Burton - N9KB
>76 Palm Beach
>Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] First time greaser... [message #207798 is a reply to message #207793] |
Wed, 15 May 2013 09:09 |
 |
Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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| Jp Benson wrote on Wed, 15 May 2013 08:46 |
Good point Ken. I've been greasing my own vehicles for a long time now and have never had a grease related mechanical failure (or even serious wear) with any kind of grease. The last few years I've been using synthetic and don't use enough of it to worry about cost. Well not enough to have two grease guns anyway.
What frustrates me though is that the synthetic greases always leak oily liquid from the gun. If it sits too long, the residual left in the gun is so coagulated that it jams the nozzle. Then I have to dispose of the tube and clean the gun before reuse. Just three weeks ago I went through this procedure. I put the gun with the fresh tube of Valvoline synthetic on a piece of newspaper on my workbench and now the entire sheet of newspaper is saturated with the leaking oil. I once stored my grease gun in a refrigerator but it still leaked. I have to suspect that this also happens inside things like ball joints and bogie bushings as well. Have you ever encountered this problem and how do you deal with it? I'm just about ready to quit using synthetic grease on the theory that "better is the enemy of good enough".
JP
|
JP,
I am surprised. That is why I abandon several other greases, but have not had the issue of "oily leakage" from the Valvoline Syn-power gun. In fact, it is the one I carry in the coach and where it is stored, if it leaked as you describe, it would have the potential to make a real mess. Before I changed it to Synpower, I did clean it because it was a mess.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: [GMCnet] First time greaser... [message #207801 is a reply to message #207798] |
Wed, 15 May 2013 09:38 |
 |
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Matt,
I lied!
I actually carry two grease guns, one with Mobil 1 in it the second with Valvoline Synpower in it. When Dave Lenzi shipped me the
assembled hubs, knuckles, and new disks he serviced the bearing with Mobil 1. I spoke to him about changing over to Synpower and he
noted that shouldn't be a problem they are compatible. Note that he used the word "shouldn't" NOT "wouldn't" therefore I have kept
greasing the wheel bearing through the zerk once a year with Mobil 1. Both grease guns are stored in the "ski storage locker" under
the floor of Double Trouble and both of the bags have residual oil in them. I also had to put a can under the bottom of the
pneumatically powered grease gun with Synpower in it hanging on the pegboard in my storage facility because it dripped oil. I have
created a GMC Round Toit to contact Mobil 1 and Valvoline Customer service and ask them if the "bleeding" effects the grease and
what to do about it.
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Colie
JP,
I am surprised. That is why I abandon several other greases, but have not had the issue of "oily leakage" from the Valvoline
Syn-power gun. In fact, it is the one I carry in the coach and where it is stored, if it leaked as you describe, it would have the
potential to make a real mess. Before I changed it to Synpower, I did clean it because it was a mess.
Matt
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] First time greaser... [message #207802 is a reply to message #207801] |
Wed, 15 May 2013 09:53 |
Jp Benson
Messages: 649
Registered: October 2011
Location: Fla
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Matt & Rob,
Well posting my rant inspired me to search the net for
info. This problem is pretty common with synthetic greases. It appears
to be most common with Mobil 1 grease but also occurs with Valvoline
SynPower. Maybe more people use Mobil 1? Lots of folks had problems
with leaking from parts they had greased. A couple of people advised to
take the pressure off the plunger in the grease gun. So now it's twice
as long. I'll keep a close eye and check the temps of my greased parts.
I hope Matt's good fortune holds. If I carried it in the coach it would be wrapped in newspaper in a sealed plastic bag.
JP
>________________________________
> From: Rob Mueller <robmueller@iinet.net.au>
>To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
>Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 10:38 AM
>Subject: Re: [GMCnet] First time greaser...
>
>
>Matt,
>
>I lied!
>
>I actually carry two grease guns, one with Mobil 1 in it the second with Valvoline Synpower in it. When Dave Lenzi shipped me the
>assembled hubs, knuckles, and new disks he serviced the bearing with Mobil 1. I spoke to him about changing over to Synpower and he
>noted that shouldn't be a problem they are compatible. Note that he used the word "shouldn't" NOT "wouldn't" therefore I have kept
>greasing the wheel bearing through the zerk once a year with Mobil 1. Both grease guns are stored in the "ski storage locker" under
>the floor of Double Trouble and both of the bags have residual oil in them. I also had to put a can under the bottom of the
>pneumatically powered grease gun with Synpower in it hanging on the pegboard in my storage facility because it dripped oil. I have
>created a GMC Round Toit to contact Mobil 1 and Valvoline Customer service and ask them if the "bleeding" effects the grease and
>what to do about it.
>
>Regards,
>Rob M.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Matt Colie
>
>JP,
>
>I am surprised. That is why I abandon several other greases, but have not had the issue of "oily leakage" from the Valvoline
>Syn-power gun. In fact, it is the one I carry in the coach and where it is stored, if it leaked as you describe, it would have the
>potential to make a real mess. Before I changed it to Synpower, I did clean it because it was a mess.
>
>Matt
>
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>
>
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| Re: First time greaser... [message #207807 is a reply to message #207741] |
Wed, 15 May 2013 11:45 |
Luvn737s
Messages: 1106
Registered: June 2007
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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I can't recommend the pneumatic grease gun based on my experience, but theoretically it should be the way to go.
As far as greasing the bogies often, where does the old grease go, and how do you know if the new grease has gone where you want and not just impacted against a hardened glob of old grease?
Randy
1973 26' Painted Desert
Ahwatukee (Phoenix) AZ
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| Re: [GMCnet] First time greaser... [message #207816 is a reply to message #207807] |
Wed, 15 May 2013 12:50 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Senior Member |
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Well, as a kid I worked in a service station. Among other things, we would grease your car - $2 extra with the oil change. We shot grease in until old grease came out the edges. Wiped it off with a shop cloth and went to th next fitting. We kept a box of Zerk fittings, and if yours was plugged, we put another in. Then someone came out with 'low pressure' grease fittings where there was a rubber dust shield over the joint. You used an in-line pressure reducer and greased only until the dust cover swelled. Many of these had a bolt which you removed and put a Zerk in for the grease and then put the bolt back. Then we took an 'oil-can Harry' and squirted rubber lube on all the suspension bushings so they wouldn't creak. Since it was a 'service station', we pumped the gas in your car - 30.9 cents a gallon for 100 octane premium - and washed the windshield and checked the oil and the tires. Which was time well spent, we sold oil and
tires that way - and TBA was where the station made money. No money to be made in gasoline sales, I think Pure Oil paid us 3 cents a gallon for what we pumped.
I wax nostalgic
--johnny
'76 23' transmode norris
'76 palm beach
From: Randy <Acrosport2@hotmail.com>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 12:45 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] First time greaser...
I can't recommend the pneumatic grease gun based on my experience, but theoretically it should be the way to go.
As far as greasing the bogies often, where does the old grease go, and how do you know if the new grease has gone where you want and not just impacted against a hardened glob of old grease?
--
Randy
1973 26' Painted Desert
Ahwatukee (Phoenix) AZ
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Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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