Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Battery Question
 Battery Question [message #204545] |
Sat, 13 April 2013 12:35  |
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Scooby Doo
Messages: 92
Registered: May 2012
Location: Miami, Florida
Karma: 4
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Fellow.netters,
I got a few electrical questions.
Electrical should be fairly easy to figure out.
I try to picture current flowing, as water would.
Which means, it should all be common sense and easy for most.
I STRUGGLE WITH IT.
Background:
I have a coachmen rear bath.
Three new batteries (6 months old) 2 deep cycle (house) and 1 regular for the coach.
I can't remember the cranking amps, but I bought the largest most expensive Interstate batteries I could.
I still have the old "buzz box" as my charging system, and leave it off for most of the time as my motorhome sits in the backyard.
So, that my batteries are not constantly charging, and won't boil the water out of them.
My GMC has been sitting now for two weeks since I got home from Dothan.
I was doing some bulb changing to L.E.D.'s and they seemed dim so I decided to start the engine to see if there was a change in brightness.
When I tried to start the engine it just went click as if the batteries were dead.
I hit the boost switch and there was no change.
My question is:
Why would my chassis battery be dead only after two weeks of sitting ?
I would figure that anything I have run during these past two weeks (radio, 12v roof exhaust fan, etc) would have used up my house batteries, and not drained my chassis battery at all. (P.S. we spend a bit of time in our GMC in the backyard, we just love it)
I had the Mrs., switch the boost switch while I was under the hood and the relay clicks as it is supposed to.
But what I'm thinking is, that maybe things are backwards and that when my boost switch is on normal that it really is on boost and that all three of my batteries are tied together. And, this is why all my batteries are dead.
Does this make sense, or am I not thinking of something ?
Question #2 (or #3)
Is there any way for me to confirm when my batteries are all three tied together (boost switch on) and when my batteries are separated (as normal) two house batteries together and the chassis battery separate (boost switch @ normal)?
Sometimes the obvious seems complicated to me. I guess I ain't too smart, but I am willing to try.
Once I get this figured out, I will have another question about why I can't get my passenger map light to work.
It is also giving me a headache.
I may be over thinking things, and short circuiting my brain matter (whats left of it!).
Thanks in advance for all you all do for me.
Sincerely,
Glenn Gardner 
Glenn & Elaine Gardner...
Miami, Florida...
1976 Royale (transmode)
TZE366V100733
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| Re: Battery Question [message #204551 is a reply to message #204545] |
Sat, 13 April 2013 13:02  |
DrPepper
Messages: 80
Registered: February 2013
Location: Goose Creek,SC
Karma: 0
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Question 1
I would assume something is draining the battery.
With everything turned off, remove the + terminal from the battery and check voltage from battery post to terminal plug. You should have 0 volts. If you get over 0 then something is closing the circuit.
Question 2
To check for cross connects, I need to test this to see if I am right.. Lol
Remove one set of batter terminals and test for voltage. Then reconnect and test other battery.
If there is a crossed connect the battery cables should show voltage when not connected to battery
Phillip Udel - I Own a 1975 Avion
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| Re: Battery Question [message #204553 is a reply to message #204545] |
Sat, 13 April 2013 13:17 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Simplest is that there is a parasitic drain on the house side and one on the engine side. To test your boost switch theory, just meter across the two large terminals of boost solenoid coach off. You should get some small reading -- the difference in voltage if the 2 systems. If your theory were correct that the switch was wired backwards, those terminals would be common and no reading of voltage across would be had. That WOULD drain both sides through the solenoid current.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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 Re: Battery Question [message #204555 is a reply to message #204545] |
Sat, 13 April 2013 14:07 |
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Scooby Doo
Messages: 92
Registered: May 2012
Location: Miami, Florida
Karma: 4
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Philip, John & Bob B.,
Thank you very much for your thoughts.
I was able to confirm that my boost switch is working properly.
I am also starting to think that the small use I gave everything for the last two weeks (the radio using the chassis battery) and the exhaust fan and a few lights was most likely the reason my house batteries were dead.
I am surprised at how much energy things may take to operate, but am now a lot more comfortable that things are OK and working properly in my GMC.
Thank you all, so very much.
It is such a good feeling that YOU people are out there willing to share their knowledge.
I don't feel so alone with my issues.
I hope one day, I will be able to repay it back with sharing the knowledge I may have gained, in the future with someone else.
Sincerely,
G2
Glenn & Elaine Gardner...
Miami, Florida...
1976 Royale (transmode)
TZE366V100733
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| Re: [GMCnet] Battery Question [message #204567 is a reply to message #204564] |
Sat, 13 April 2013 17:35 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
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here is some info and a drawing
http://gmcmotorhome.info/batt.htm#components
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/buzz-box-converter-problems-and-replacement/p17531.html
gene
On Sat, Apr 13, 2013 at 3:28 PM, Glenn Gardner <G2photos@aol.com> wrote:
>
>
> Oh Wait !
> I got another question.
>
> My GMC is fairly stock, the way it came in 1976.
>
> Does my "buzz box" charge all three of my batteries at the same time on
> its own (when its on) ?
> Or, do I have to engage my batt. boost to make all three batteries on the
> same circuit ?
>
> And while I am at it, does my alternator charge all three batteries when I
> am driving down the road ?
>
> I know there is an isolater in the mix, but I do not completly understand
> it.
>
> G2 :)
> --
> Glenn & Elaine Gardner...
> Miami, Florida...
> 1976 Royale (transmode)
> TZE366V100733
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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| Re: [GMCnet] Battery Question [message #204570 is a reply to message #204567] |
Sat, 13 April 2013 18:03 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Somebody,
Please tell me where this idea came from:
"The discharge happens because (generally) one battery bank is
different electrically from the other. This leads to the "stronger" of the
banks experiencing current flow out as the batteries try to reach
equilibrium electrically. As one banks discharges into the other it will
overshoot a little bit so that it becomes the weaker of the banks. Then the
second bank tries to charge the first - and overshoots a little bit. The
"seesaw" current flow eventually discharges both battery banks."
I defy anyone to demonstrate such an oscillation!
It's more accurate to say that a battery with a partially shorted cell can
draw down the voltage of any paralleled battery also. And lead-acid
batteries usually never regain their full storage capacity after being
fully discharged.
Ken H.
On Sat, Apr 13, 2013 at 6:35 PM, gene Fisher wrote:
> here is some info and a drawing
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/batt.htm#components
>
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Ken Henderson
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www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: Battery Question [message #204571 is a reply to message #204545] |
Sat, 13 April 2013 18:07 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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| Scooby Doo wrote on Sat, 13 April 2013 13:35 |
Fellow.netters,
I got a few electrical questions.
Electrical should be fairly easy to figure out.
I try to picture current flowing, as water would.
Which means, it should all be common sense and easy for most.
I STRUGGLE WITH IT.
Background:
I have a coachmen rear bath.
Three new batteries (6 months old) 2 deep cycle (house) and 1 regular for the coach.
I can't remember the cranking amps, but I bought the largest most expensive Interstate batteries I could.
I still have the old "buzz box" as my charging system, and leave it off for most of the time as my motorhome sits in the backyard.
So, that my batteries are not constantly charging, and won't boil the water out of them.
My GMC has been sitting now for two weeks since I got home from Dothan.
I was doing some bulb changing to L.E.D.'s and they seemed dim so I decided to start the engine to see if there was a change in brightness.
When I tried to start the engine it just went click as if the batteries were dead.
I hit the boost switch and there was no change.
My question is:
Why would my chassis battery be dead only after two weeks of sitting ?
I would figure that anything I have run during these past two weeks (radio, 12v roof exhaust fan, etc) would have used up my house batteries, and not drained my chassis battery at all. (P.S. we spend a bit of time in our GMC in the backyard, we just love it)
I had the Mrs., switch the boost switch while I was under the hood and the relay clicks as it is supposed to.
But what I'm thinking is, that maybe things are backwards and that when my boost switch is on normal that it really is on boost and that all three of my batteries are tied together. And, this is why all my batteries are dead.
Does this make sense, or am I not thinking of something ?
Question #2 (or #3)
Is there any way for me to confirm when my batteries are all three tied together (boost switch on) and when my batteries are separated (as normal) two house batteries together and the chassis battery separate (boost switch @ normal)?
Sometimes the obvious seems complicated to me. I guess I ain't too smart, but I am willing to try.
Once I get this figured out, I will have another question about why I can't get my passenger map light to work.
It is also giving me a headache.
I may be over thinking things, and short circuiting my brain matter (whats left of it!).
Thanks in advance for all you all do for me.
Sincerely,
Glenn Gardner
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Glenn,
I will try too fill in answers in order:
#1 - Why would my chassis battery be dead only after two weeks of sitting ?
=>You have no guaranty that nothing was wired into the engine (chassis) battery circuit that should not have been. It is a good idea to find this out as soon as practical. It is a very good idea to always measure battery voltage when you think you have a problem. In 12V stuff, very often the problem can be nothing more than poor connections. This is particularly true of the starting circuit. More about this down the page.
#2 - Is there any way for me to confirm when my batteries are all three tied together (boost switch on) and when my batteries are separated (as normal) two house batteries together and the chassis battery separate (boost switch @ normal)?
=>It seems you go this one.
#3 - Once I get this figured out, I will have another question about why I can't get my passenger map light to work.
=>If by passenger map light you mean the white light in the same panel with a speaker over the passenger's head, then there could be lots of reasons. Those two lights are switchable at their panel to be on, off, or to work from the switch with the IP light dimmer. To make this work, the are powered all the time and grounded by the switch of choice. That power lead has to come up via the driver's A pillar and then it and the rest of the bundle run across to the other side.
The switch ground uses the same ground as the ICC and clearance light lights (the 5 amber in front) so that is not likely to be a single issue.
Assuming you have tested the bulb and cleaned its contacts.
- Check that one terminal is hot. Use a test light to the nearest metal.
You find a hot one, go on and skip this next.
If you don't find a hot terminal, the connection to one of those two is bad. As the power is supposed to be coming from the light on the other side and that one is working this should not be too difficult to locate.
** end skip **
Now you are looking for a ground that isn't there. One position of the switch uses the same ground as the ICC and markers. If they all work then there is a harness problem over the headliner. The easy and fast fix world be to snake a wire over to the other side and pick up what you need at the other switch.
If you don't have a meter, get one. Even the cheapie at Hazard
Fright is good enough tell you a lot. If a starting battery is not at least 12.0V at rest, it will probably not start an engine. If you put the meter on the start battery (this can actually be done inside the glove compartment) and crank and the battery voltage "disappears" then you have a bad connection. Go try the same on the actual start battery terminals. If that stays up, you have a bad connection, if it still disappears, charge the battery.
Next, for working on DC, a meter can be a PITA. So, Make yourself a test light. Attach two kinda long (like a couple feet at least) wires to any handy 12V bulb and put clips on the end.
You want to know if there is power where you need it, clip one end to a known ground (like any metal in the cab) and the other end to what you need to know.
Does the light come on nice and bright? There's the answer.
Want to know if you have a good ground where you need it?
Find a hot terminal (in the cab this is easy as there are some on the fuse block) and clip to what is supposed to be ground.
Does the light come on nice and bright? There's the answer.
You want to find the bad connection in the starter circuit?
Clip one end on the starter side of the boost contactor (solenoid) and hold the other on the terminal of the battery and have Elaine give it a short crank.
Did the light glow? You have a problem there.
No?
The clip onto the battery side of the starter solenoid (right on the starter) (much easier with the wheel well out) and have Elaine hit it again.
Did the light glow? You have a problem there.
No?
Here's a last good check, clip to the frame and the starter post - not the one with the cable on it. Elaine hits it again....
If the light comes on nice and bright and nothing else happens, you have a bad ground or a bad starter.
Good Luck and come back if you don't get it.
By the Way... Mary Really likes the picture you took of the coach.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: Battery Question [message #204577 is a reply to message #204545] |
Sat, 13 April 2013 19:07 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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To the isolator question: think of it as a "splitter" to get the alternator to charge both batteries (Engine and House) when 455 is running, but yet have no battery to battery connection. This is done by the diodes in the isolator which allow flow in only one direction, and since we are talking DC, it works.
Ken: that is is a bit hard to understand that there could be and oscillation in a passive circuit. Then again how about those bobing chicken diplays you used to see in the old days. I do know that batteries have impedance. The larger the battery ampacity, the lower the impedance. So in a mismatched paralleled situation the larger bank would be a lower impedance load to the smaller. Now if I understand correctly, if the charge voltage state was exactly the same in both batteries there would be no current flow, but they would always be mismatched by at least some few mV which would then cause the flow. The overshoot cycling is hard to fathom though.
One of the beauties of owning a GM vehicle that the newest of which 1978 predated computers in cars by about 4 years, is that if everything is set up the way they engineered it (and not been POed to death), then you should be able to go months and still jump in and have enough battery to start and be on your way. The days before '2 weeks and it's dead' is considered normal.
As far as the buzz box it puts out something in the 13's, the alternator aims for about 14.2V (in the GMC silghtly higher pre isolator to get the 14.2 post) This buzz box is enough to get the batteries XX% charged but not fully charged, which leads to a short battery life. In your case where they are almost dead I would use a smaller charger to S L O W L Y bring them back the safe way over a couple days. This is better for the batteries and your charging system. I like the BatteryMinder from Northern Tool as it's smart and then once fully charged goes into the flashing desulfonate mode. I have a 96 Delco 78 out of an Impala that still is working fine.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] Battery Question [message #204580 is a reply to message #204570] |
Sat, 13 April 2013 19:24 |
chasingsummer
Messages: 434
Registered: May 2011
Location: asheboro, nc
Karma: 0
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Ken
To tell you where I heard that statement, it was related to combiner, I am not saying it is true because to me , for it to be verified I would have to have monitors hooked up and give subject more energy than my lazy butt would care to.
Oddly , shortly afer I added a combiner I had to replace engine battery. I did not blame combiner, I blamed old battery.
Just answering your question related to 2 batteries killing each other.
brian
brian
asheboro, nc
75 eleganza, 74 build
119k miles and counting,
DOG HOUSE
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| Re: Battery Question [message #204581 is a reply to message #204571] |
Sat, 13 April 2013 19:25 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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First
If your coach is wired stock then the radio get's it power from the ENGINE BATTERY.
Second point
A simple way to see if the two system (house and engine) are cross connected it to disconnect the house battery(s) and then see if you still have house accessories (like the interior lights) working. Note: the two lights in the driver and passenger area get their power from the engine battery. Every other interior light gets it's power from the house battery(s) (and the converter when it is plugged in). You can also test the boost relay off and on to see if it is working correctly at his time with the house battery(s) disconnected.
Third
Your question on the isolator.
Consider the isolator as part of the alternator charging system. The isolator allows the engine driven alternator to charge both the house and engine batteries while keeping them separated during discharge cycles.
The isolator has nothing to do with charging the engine battery when the buzz box (or other converter) is plugged in to 120 VAC.
After you get the problems figured out and fixed you can contact Gene F. for a sales pitch on why you might want a Combiner.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Battery Question [message #204584 is a reply to message #204583] |
Sat, 13 April 2013 19:33 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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| Mr ERFisher wrote on Sat, 13 April 2013 19:27 |
>
> After you get the problems figured out and fixed you can contact Gene F.
> for a sales pitch on why you might want a Combiner.
> --
>
easy, has no impact on the situation
gene
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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That is why I told him to wait to contact you AFTER he figured out and fixed his current problem(s).
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: Battery Question [message #204586 is a reply to message #204545] |
Sat, 13 April 2013 19:58 |
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Scooby Doo
Messages: 92
Registered: May 2012
Location: Miami, Florida
Karma: 4
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Dan,
Thank you for the advise.
I agree there are some modern upgrades that should be done.
But, I must admit, I usually look at things as : if it ain't broke don't fix it.
I am truly amazed at how modern and well thought out the GMC is.
I would rather own it as is from 1976, than a brand new motorcoach ten times the price, that would not last ten years without problems.
So far 98% of our GMC is as it was 38 years ago, and everything seems to work fine.
I would not be able to make another convention until next year, and that is if all goes well$
Dothan was 1300 miles round trip, and next year it will be double the distance from our home.
But, we will do our best to show up next spring because Elaine & I REALLY enjoyed meeting everyone, and the convention itself was so much fun. We loved it.
Mr. Fisher,
Thank you for the link.
You always seem to come up with a link for almost everyone that writes in to this website.
I truly appreciate all your efforts and hope to meet you one day in person.
Colonel Henderson,
Your mind is always working.
You are a very smart person.
I thank you for the time you have taken with me, for the last 11 Months that I have been on the GMC.net.
Matt,
Thank you for the detailed information.
A big help to me !
All of this stuff today got me to a lot of thinking (Yes, I got a headache)
I have run a lot of stuff over the last two weeks without any charging of the batteries both house & coach.
I feel this was more than likely the reason it all happened.
I would not have figured it out without the input of all of you.
Yes, I have a 12v test light and a multimeter.
As for my map light on Elaines side.
The bulb is good.
It is a new LED and also, I lit it up on the divers side first when I was replacing that one. So, I know the bulb is good and also I have 12volts on the power (orange wire) side of where the bulb cilps in to the socket.
I took a wire found a good ground and it still did not light.
This was the point and time I decided to start the motor to be sure I had plenty of juice and that is when I got sidetracked and started this thread about my batteries.
I hope to get back out there and do somemore testing now that the batteries are full of charge.
And, by the way, I liked the photo of your coach, Mary and You.( it was a great memory, to remember you by)
It was so nice to meet you and spend a little time with you.
Your wife Mary was so nice to me teaching me about the geocaheing stuff.
I love her passion for it.
Finding stuff that makes us all happy is truly the key to a full life.
Thank you all again for taking the time to write in concerning my questions.
I hope I can pay it forward one day, when I have owned our "Scooby Doo"a bit longer and know her as well as most of you know your GMC's
PS I was just about to post this and then three or four more comenmts.John, Brian, Mr. Fisher, and Ken B,
I kind of answered in the words above these. Pilot error and still an amateur at all this.
Never been an RV or Boar owner.
It will take me a little time getting used to all the different things on these vehicles.
Thanks again for being there.
Sincerely,
Glenn Gardner...G2photosmx.com
Glenn & Elaine Gardner...
Miami, Florida...
1976 Royale (transmode)
TZE366V100733
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| Re: Battery Question [message #204591 is a reply to message #204545] |
Sat, 13 April 2013 21:17 |
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mike miller
Messages: 3576
Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Karma: 0
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| Scooby Doo wrote on Sat, 13 April 2013 10:35 |
Fellow.netters,
I got a few electrical questions. ...
... I have a coachmen rear bath...
... Why would my chassis battery be dead only after two weeks of sitting ?
...
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Glenn,
Without any drains or charging, a chassis battery should be able to start a coach sitting for more than 6 months. I suspect you have a drain on your chassis battery, unless you have been using power from it. OBTW the dash radio was originally wired to the chassis battery, and most likely still is. If you use the radio "very much" (at all???) while parked, it would be a good idea to rewire it to get its power from the house battery.
Others have mentioned how to test for electrical drains in a 12 volt system. I like to use a simple test light. It is a light bulb in a "screw driver" like handle with a clip lead to attach to one side of the circuit. At the fuse panel, I use it across the connections after removing fuses... if the light lights, something is using power on that circuit. The brightness of the light indicates how much power is being used.
The one thing I would add about the chassis battery is check for corrosion on ALL the connections on both the positive and GROUND side. With only 12v, it doesn't take much to cause low voltage in the staring circuit.
Now... I understand you have a Royale. So I HAVE to mention the house system.
Coachman wired their products differently than GM coaches of the same time frame. Royales came with a 12v chassis and a 12v house battery "up-front" and another 12v battery back by the generator. At this point it sounds like a early (73/74) GM coach, but some "bright person" at Coachman decided to connect the rear battery to the front house battery though a large cable. Most likely they wanted the added capacity of two house batteries. (OBTW: anyone with a coachman product, should inspect this large long cable and its routing under the coach.)
Connecting two 12v batteries, in parallel, "works" but it isn't really good for battery life unless done correctly.... and I would not call the Coachman set-up "correct." The long cable between the batteries just makes things worse. If you REALLY want to use 12v batteries on the house side, there was a link to a big SOB site with a VERY good explanation on methods to parallel batteries. I could look for it if you need it.
In contrast: In 1975, GM had changed to a single chassis battery mount "up-front" and a single house/generator battery in the rear next to the Onan. They used a large long cable to take engine alternator charging current to the rear. This cable was sized "large" to maintain the "boost" feature using a pair of boost solenoids. (The rear solenoid just bypasses a circuit breaker.) The only change I would make to a GM (75+) system is using a pair of 6v "golf cart" batteries as the house "12v battery" bank. This yields the most capacity for the dollar, and is an easy change to make on a GM up-fitted coach.
If I owned a Royale, I would change it to a system based on the GM model with the pair of 6 volts in the rear.
A second (low cost) "solution" to the Royale house battery "problem" would be to change it to a late Birchaven set-up.
The smaller 23 foot Coachman product, the Birchaven, did not really have room in the back for a generator starting battery. (The early ones had a small 12v battery back there... "somewhere.") The later Birch's start the generator from the front mounted house battery through the same "large" cable found in the Royales. The Onan doesn't really draw THAT MUCH current...
To duplicate the late Birch system in a Royale, I _think_ all you need to do is just remove the rear battery and tape up the connections. (It looks that way on the schematic.) This will reduce the capacity of your house "bank" but make your one house battery last longer. This lowered capacity is not an issue if you do not dry camp. While cheap, most GMC'ers would not like this result.
AND... as always: Due to the advances in technology, a buzz-box, even if working, is BAD as a converter and "needs" replaced. A modern "smart" charger/converter will pay for itself, many times over, in increased battery life.
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo'
http://m000035.blogspot.com
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| Re: Battery Question [message #204619 is a reply to message #204545] |
Sun, 14 April 2013 08:39 |
habbyguy
Messages: 896
Registered: May 2012
Location: Mesa, AZ
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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My Royale has the two house batteries up front, but no generator battery in the rear. The PO had wired it with some pretty heavy (#4 I think) wire, and I never had any issues with it, and it spun up the generator (a newer Onan 6500 watt) just fine. When I installed a 1000 watt inverter, I decided to put it in the rear as well, and paralleled the existing wire with a 25' run of very flexible 1/0 cable, and finished up with six or seven feet of 2/0. Needless to say, I don't have to worry about voltage drop to the rear of the coach, so I could add some more house batteries in the rear if I really needed them (which I probably won't). The only thing I'm going to change is to replace the two 12V house batteries up front with a couple 6V golf cart batteries.
And to the OP - I would seriously recommend that you do consider replacing that buzz box power converter with a modern three or four-stage charger/converter. If you use your coach more than once in a blue moon, it will pay for itself in no time - both in lower battery replacement costs, and in generator run time (since it charges the batteries quicker). They're not expensive, they're a snap to install, and it probably shaves 30 or 40 pounds off the coach (I'm sure THAT is going to transform the slalom performance!).  Going over the receipts from the PO, he was replacing batteries every year or two, while those with modern charger/inverters get a whole lot more than that out of their batteries.
Mark Hickey
Mesa, AZ
1978 Royale Center Kitchen
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