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Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Rebuilt tranny and 3.70 final drive
[GMCnet] Rebuilt tranny and 3.70 final drive [message #203921] Sun, 07 April 2013 11:07 Go to next message
k2gkk is currently offline  k2gkk   United States
Messages: 4452
Registered: November 2009
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Senior Member
Hi, Jim K.

You may remember that I had to abandon my coach
shortly after leaving my OKC home on the way to the
Dothan "rally" due to severe engine knock and dropped
oil pressure.

I spoke with Jim Bounds regarding a replacement motor
and am considering having the coach trailered to his
shop for installation.

My idea is to have a rebuilt tranny AND 3.70 drive installed
at the same time.

Which would be the most economical way to do this? Are
both trannies AND final drives stocked in the eastern US?

Right now, I am not sure of the status of my engine. After
having AAA haul it to my house (under the 100 mile limit
for "free" hauling, I started it up and found oil pressure
normal and no pinging/knocking while putting it up into
my driveway. Oil is clean and full.

I now wonder what caused the knock/ping and oil pressure
problem. I don't have a tach, the fan apparently runs all
the time, I'm pretty sure the secondaries of Quadrajet don't
open, and I'm not sure tranny goes into third gear (see lack
of tach).




cc: GMCList, Jim B

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Re: [GMCnet] Rebuilt tranny and 3.70 final drive [message #203934 is a reply to message #203921] Sun, 07 April 2013 12:34 Go to previous messageGo to next message
kerry pinkerton is currently offline  kerry pinkerton   United States
Messages: 2565
Registered: July 2012
Location: Harvest, Al
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Senior Member
1: Go get a cheap tach.
2: Get an aftermarket oil pressure gauge
3: Get a mechanics stethoscope or a piece of 1/2" ID hose of some type and listen to the engine while it is running.
4: Get the oil hot and send a sample to be tested. That will tell you if you have metal particles in the oil. No metal in the oil would lead me to believe that your knocking was not something wrong with the engine.

Many times, you won't hear an engine knock at idle but once you put it under load it will show up. Sometimes, just putting it in gear, holding the brake, and reving the motor a bit can tell the tale.

Other things besides rods and mains can make a knock including loose flexplates. I once spent DAYS tracking a noise that everyone said was a rod...turned out to be a compressed motor mount letting steel hit on steel.

Of course, you can/should do what you want but I'd make sure the engine was indeed bad before I spent the kind of money you're looking at to have it replaced.


Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
Re: [GMCnet] Rebuilt tranny and 3.70 final drive [message #203937 is a reply to message #203921] Sun, 07 April 2013 12:42 Go to previous messageGo to next message
WD0AFQ is currently offline  WD0AFQ   United States
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Registered: November 2004
Location: Dexter, Mo.
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Senior Member
Mac, sounds like to me it must have over heated.
Bounds has Manny trans and Jim K's final drives. There are also a few scattered around the USA to save shipping.
Dan


3 In Stainless Exhaust Headers One Ton All Discs/Reaction Arm 355 FD/Quad Bag/Alum Radiator Manny Tran/New eng. Holley EFI/10 Tire Air Monitoring System Solarized Coach/Upgraded Windows Satelite TV/On Demand Hot Water/3Way Refer
Re: [GMCnet] Rebuilt tranny and 3.70 final drive [message #203938 is a reply to message #203921] Sun, 07 April 2013 12:52 Go to previous messageGo to next message
JohnL455 is currently offline  JohnL455   United States
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Location: Woodstock, IL
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Loose or dirty connection at oil sender can cause false readings. A sloppy rod bearing can cause piston to rap the shelf on the head and make a racket. Could be related or not. Rapping might only occur when full warm and above 1500 RPM or so.

John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
Re: [GMCnet] Rebuilt tranny and 3.70 final drive [message #203939 is a reply to message #203937] Sun, 07 April 2013 13:01 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
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Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
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For what you are going to spend in trailer costs, I would find someone locally to do the actual engine swap. You are probably looking at 4 man days to do the job. You can get the engine and trans and final drive of your choice shipped in and do the installation locally.

That said, are you sure the engine is bad? Ignition ping and over heating can be caused by many things including the distributor weights stuck, or being low on coolant. As Kerry suggested the first thing is to get an oil analysis to see what if anything is floating around in the engine.

Do not write of that engine before doing your home work. The problem may be as simple as lubricating the distributor weights or getting a rebuilt distributor from Dick Paterson. It also could be a clogged radiator or bad thermostat.



Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
Re: [GMCnet] Rebuilt tranny and 3.70 final drive [message #203957 is a reply to message #203938] Sun, 07 April 2013 14:40 Go to previous message
mickeysss is currently offline  mickeysss   United States
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Registered: January 2012
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i had a 3:50 trans put in by manny, I think that ratio is better for hills and towing.

mickey :-)(-:

77 palm beach ball

anaheim ca.


On Apr 7, 2013, at 10:52 AM, John R. Lebetski wrote:

>
>
> Loose or dirty connection at oil sender can cause false readings. A sloppy rod bearing can cause piston to rap the shelf on the head and make a racket. Could be related or not. Rapping might only occur when full warm and above 1500 RPM or so.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Chicago, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
> Source America First
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Re: [GMCnet] Rebuilt tranny and 3.70 final drive [message #203958 is a reply to message #203934] Sun, 07 April 2013 14:40 Go to previous message
mickeysss is currently offline  mickeysss   United States
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Registered: January 2012
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Senior Member

a broken valve spring sound like the end of the world

mickey

palm b,

anaheim ca.

On Apr 7, 2013, at 10:34 AM, Kerry Pinkerton wrote:

>
>
> 1: Go get a cheap tach.
> 2: Get an aftermarket oil pressure gauge
> 3: Get a mechanics stethoscope or a piece of 1/2" ID hose of some type and listen to the engine while it is running.
> 4: Get the oil hot and send a sample to be tested. That will tell you if you have metal particles in the oil. No metal in the oil would lead me to believe that your knocking was not something wrong with the engine.
>
> Many times, you won't hear an engine knock at idle but once you put it under load it will show up. Sometimes, just putting it in gear, holding the brake, and reving the motor a bit can tell the tale.
>
> Other things besides rods and mains can make a knock including loose flexplates. I once spent DAYS tracking a noise that everyone said was a rod...turned out to be a compressed motor mount letting steel hit on steel.
>
> Of course, you can/should do what you want but I'd make sure the engine was indeed bad before I spent the kind of money you're looking at to have it replaced.
> --
> Kerry Pinkerton
>
> North Alabama, near Huntsville,
>
> 77 Eleganza II, "The Lady", 403CI, also a 76 Eleganza being re-bodied as an Art Deco car hauler
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist

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