Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » LED interior replacement bulbs
| LED interior replacement bulbs [message #200630] |
Mon, 04 March 2013 20:23  |
An87ttype
Messages: 157
Registered: September 2012
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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I just got delivered 10 of these LED bulbs from China. I put them in the interior fixtures. I'm pretty impressed with the color and brightness of them. I can hardly tell the difference between the regular bulbs. Called warm white (3000 to 3500K), whatever that means? They have 13 LEDs in them. Run completly cold. I might get a couple of the 18SMD for under the hood and rear comparment for a little extra light.
Sadly I just saw they changed The price from 33.99 to 35.99. Still, check it out...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261150400770?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648
1975 Eleganza II
Hudson Valley NY
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| Re: [GMCnet] LED interior replacement bulbs [message #200636 is a reply to message #200630] |
Mon, 04 March 2013 20:51  |
jimk
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Daryn,
Was that price for each?
We sell them for $24.99 ea.
On Mon, Mar 4, 2013 at 6:23 PM, Daryn <An87ttype@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> I just got delivered 10 of these LED bulbs from China. I put them in the
> interior fixtures. I'm pretty impressed with the color and brightness of
> them. I can hardly tell the difference between the regular bulbs. Called
> warm white (3000 to 3500K), whatever that means? They have 13 LEDs in them.
> Run completly cold. I might get a couple of the 18SMD for under the hood
> and rear comparment for a little extra light.
> Sadly I just saw they changed The price from 33.99 to 35.99. Still, check
> it out...
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/261150400770?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648
> --
> 1975 Eleganza II
> Hudson Valley NY
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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Jim Kanomata
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jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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| Re: [GMCnet] LED interior replacement bulbs [message #200637 is a reply to message #200636] |
Mon, 04 March 2013 20:58 |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Think it was for five lamps Jim.
Sully
77 royale
Seattle
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 4, 2013, at 6:51 PM, Jim Kanomata <jimkanomata@gmail.com> wrote:
> Daryn,
> Was that price for each?
> We sell them for $24.99 ea.
>
> On Mon, Mar 4, 2013 at 6:23 PM, Daryn <An87ttype@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> I just got delivered 10 of these LED bulbs from China. I put them in the
>> interior fixtures. I'm pretty impressed with the color and brightness of
>> them. I can hardly tell the difference between the regular bulbs. Called
>> warm white (3000 to 3500K), whatever that means? They have 13 LEDs in them.
>> Run completly cold. I might get a couple of the 18SMD for under the hood
>> and rear comparment for a little extra light.
>> Sadly I just saw they changed The price from 33.99 to 35.99. Still, check
>> it out...
>>
>>
>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/261150400770?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648
>> --
>> 1975 Eleganza II
>> Hudson Valley NY
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
>
>
> --
> Jim Kanomata
> Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
> jimk@appliedairfilters.com
> http://www.appliedgmc.com
> 1-800-752-7502
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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| Re: LED interior replacement bulbs [message #200641 is a reply to message #200630] |
Mon, 04 March 2013 21:08 |
 |
Richard Andis
Messages: 261
Registered: January 2013
Location: HELL Paso, TX
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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| An87ttype wrote on Mon, 04 March 2013 20:23 |
I can hardly tell the difference between the regular bulbs. Called warm white (3000 to 3500K), whatever that means?[/url]
|
K Value has to do with the color temperature of the bulb.
1,700 K Match flame
1,850 K Candle flame, sunset/sunrise
2,700–3,300 K Incandescent lamps
3,000 K Soft (or Warm) White compact fluorescent lamps
3,200 K Studio lamps, photofloods, etc.
3,350 K Studio "CP" light
4,100–4,150 K Moonlight,[2] xenon arc lamp
5,000 K Horizon daylight
5,000 K tubular fluorescent lamps or Cool White/Daylight compact fluorescent lamps (CFL)
5,500–6,000 K Vertical daylight, electronic flash
6,500 K Daylight, overcast
5,500–10,500 K LCD or CRT screen
15,000–27,000 K Clear blue poleward sky
Copied from Wiki
Valhalla - 1978 GMC Royale rear twin [SOLD]
Walküre - 1974 VW Thing (Toad)
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| Re: LED interior replacement bulbs [message #200645 is a reply to message #200630] |
Mon, 04 March 2013 21:34 |
An87ttype
Messages: 157
Registered: September 2012
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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I wonder who actually makes them? I'd be willing to bet that you couldn't get any of these bulbs that aren't made in China.
Not necessarily junk. It just seems like economy of scale is reaching the LED bulb market. Soon you may have to pay 24.99 for an incandescent bulb.
1975 Eleganza II
Hudson Valley NY
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| Re: [GMCnet] LED interior replacement bulbs [message #200646 is a reply to message #200645] |
Mon, 04 March 2013 21:44 |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Yeah. And more than that if you want a 100 watt indoor flood.
Sully
77 royale
Seattle
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 4, 2013, at 7:34 PM, Daryn <An87ttype@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> I wonder who actually makes them? I'd be willing to bet that you couldn't get any of these bulbs that aren't made in China.
> Not necessarily junk. It just seems like economy of scale is reaching the LED bulb market. Soon you may have to pay 24.99 for an incandescent bulb.
> --
> 1975 Eleganza II
> Hudson Valley NY
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
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Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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| Re: [GMCnet] LED interior replacement bulbs [message #200720 is a reply to message #200641] |
Tue, 05 March 2013 18:19 |
Ronald Pottol
Messages: 505
Registered: September 2012
Location: Redwood City, California
Karma: -2
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Senior Member |
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One note from someone who is a bit of a nut on the subject:
Color temperature is for an ideal black body radiator. Great if your light
source is a hot tungsten wire, but a poor measure for an LED.
Color Rendering Index (CRI) is better, but still not that great. Though my
85% CRI LED flashlight makes seeing much easier than my brighter but cool
white LED light.
They (ANSI? NIST?) are working on a standard that will make sense with LED
and what have you.
http://www.foursevens.com/ is where I got mine from (CR2 battery but 160
nice lumens from the 85% high CRI LED, a blinding keychain light). Just a
happy customer.
Ron
On Mar 4, 2013 7:08 PM, "Richard Andis" <randisintexas@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> An87ttype wrote on Mon, 04 March 2013 20:23
> > I can hardly tell the difference between the regular bulbs. Called warm
> white (3000 to 3500K), whatever that means?[/url]
>
>
> K Value has to do with the color temperature of the bulb.
> 1,700 K Match flame
> 1,850 K Candle flame, sunset/sunrise
> 2,700–3,300 K Incandescent lamps
> 3,000 K Soft (or Warm) White compact fluorescent lamps
> 3,200 K Studio lamps, photofloods, etc.
> 3,350 K Studio "CP" light
> 4,100–4,150 K Moonlight,[2] xenon arc lamp
> 5,000 K Horizon daylight
> 5,000 K tubular fluorescent lamps or Cool White/Daylight compact
> fluorescent lamps (CFL)
> 5,500–6,000 K Vertical daylight, electronic flash
> 6,500 K Daylight, overcast
> 5,500–10,500 K LCD or CRT screen
> 15,000–27,000 K Clear blue poleward sky
>
> Copied from Wiki
>
>
>
> --
> "Vahalla" - 1978 GMC Royale
> "Walküre" - 1974 VW Thing
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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1973 26' GM outfitted
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| Re: [GMCnet] motor rebuild directions [message #201893 is a reply to message #201891] |
Sun, 17 March 2013 07:24 |
Steven Ferguson
Messages: 3447
Registered: May 2006
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Doug,
It's pretty straight forward and anyone you would want to trust with your
baby had better already know how to R&R the engine. Lots of deals out
there on engines, unfortumately, most of them are bad. The GMC community
is down to about 2 or 3 premium engine remanufacturers and we all know who
they are. That's the good news. The bad news is that all of them have
significant backlogs and a 6-9 week delivery time is the norm. Not good
for those milking high mileage engines until they fail and have to be
replaced. Good news for those who are planning on replacing their power
plants before a catastrophic failure forces them to and they take what's
available only to have to replace their bargain motor soon thereafter. If
you are past the point where you trust your engine, or are taking trips
where "hope you make it", get in line now for your replacement engine.
There are NO bargains out there for premium replacement engines. Only
those dodging the junk pile.
On Sun, Mar 17, 2013 at 2:54 AM, Douglas Norton <nortocd@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Heard some rod-like knocking sounds today at about 40 mph. It may not be
> a connecting rod, but I started to wonder where to go to get directions on
> how to remove the motor, and how to rebuild it. Is this info in the CD
> manuals or on line? I am inclined to take it out the bottom since several
> mechanics seem to prefer that. I am not saying I need to, nor that I
> really would do it myself, I just need to know where to get directions. I
> have put so much stuff on and in my coach, I can not afford not to keep it
> running.
>
> Doug Norton
> 73 sequoia with a new TBI and the tiny teal tone tin toad to tow.
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Take care,
Steve
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| Re: [GMCnet] motor rebuild directions [message #201894 is a reply to message #201892] |
Sun, 17 March 2013 07:33 |
Jim Bounds
Messages: 842
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Doug,
While that is a way to do it, let me give you another and first let me explain why:
Your comment about having too much into the coach to not have it run well is a key and something you must seriously consider. You are not saying you just wanna fix whatever that knock is but you want the motorhome to give you a comprt level that you would go out and use it often. On a vehicle pushing 50 years old, that means more than just replacing the motor, you want the entire drive train to have a reliable envelope of life if it's to offer you confidence. So doing that is more than yanking the motor, you also should pull the transmissionunless it has been recently been worked over. It would stink if your new motor drove your old transmission to suicide!
Pull the motor and the transmission, take them both out from the bottom. On your back you need to get the transmission pan 38" off the ground, on a lift it's a piece of cake. With both major components on the ground it's really easy to investigate things like the radiator, trans and motor mounts, drive shafts, AC system, exhaust system, etc. There is a scaffold you build up (not that hard) to support the motor and transmission as you drop them out. I also find I have much less chance of knicking up my interior when we drop everything out. Things seem to stay cleaner.
There is much more involved than just dropping the motor and I'm not talking about any of that, I'm sure there will be much threading about that. I'm just saying unless your transmission is really fresh, I would suggest you consider then entire drive train-- there are no original parts on your coach that should be considered reliable and everything else should be suspect as well. If you bypass this, expect to have unexpected issues when all you wanted was peace of mind that your coach would go from A to B and your RV investment was servicing you.
Jim Bounds
------------------------
________________________________
From: Mickey Space Ship Shuttle <mickeysss@me.com>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2013 6:41 AM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] motor rebuild directions
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/roger-black-engine-swap/p39335-404-p4044.html
mickey :-)
palm beach 77
anaheim ca.
On Mar 17, 2013, at 2:54 AM, Douglas Norton wrote:
> Heard some rod-like knocking sounds today at about 40 mph. It may not be a connecting rod, but I started to wonder where to go to get directions on how to remove the motor, and how to rebuild it. Is this info in the CD manuals or on line? I am inclined to take it out the bottom since several mechanics seem to prefer that. I am not saying I need to, nor that I really would do it myself, I just need to know where to get directions. I have put so much stuff on and in my coach, I can not afford not to keep it running.
>
> Doug Norton
> 73 sequoia with a new TBI and the tiny teal tone tin toad to tow.
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: [GMCnet] motor rebuild directions [message #201896 is a reply to message #201891] |
Sun, 17 March 2013 08:05 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Doug,
The maintenance manuals' instructions are pretty good, but I don't think
they cover R&R of the engine+transmission+final drive. That's how I prefer
to do it. This album shows the installation process in probably too much
detail:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3950-bottom-up-engine-installation.html
Admittedly, having a service rack makes the out&In-the-bottom procedure
much easier, but if I didn't have one, I'd probably still put the entire
coach up on wooden shoring to enable me to do it that way.
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Sun, Mar 17, 2013 at 5:54 AM, Douglas Norton wrote:
> Heard some rod-like knocking sounds today at about 40 mph. It may not be
> a connecting rod, but I started to wonder where to go to get directions on
> how to remove the motor, and how to rebuild it. Is this info in the CD
> manuals or on line? I am inclined to take it out the bottom since several
> mechanics seem to prefer that. I am not saying I need to, nor that I
> really would do it myself, I just need to know where to get directions. I
> have put so much stuff on and in my coach, I can not afford not to keep it
> running.
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] motor rebuild directions [message #201897 is a reply to message #201893] |
Sun, 17 March 2013 08:16 |
Jim Bounds
Messages: 842
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
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|
Not cause I hope Steve counts our motors as one of those "good motors" but really if you are going to go through all the *&^%$%^&* T to R&R a motor in a GMC, it's only smart to put in a specifically tailoered motor that fits the needs of low RPM torque. I'm sorry, wish it weren;t true but production builders and their ways simply cannot build a motor that has reliability on low RPM torque. It's not that they build bad motors but Badger pistons simply will not hold up, cheap bearings get hammers and adown and dirty valve job does not do you any favors.
Unfortunately also, Steve is right, production builders that have identified the GMC market are slammed. Production builders "are not in your hurry". They are concerned that everything is right and if there are corners to cut, they simple will not and should not by definition of what they are trying to do think that way.
Every builder has their "special things" they do to try and accomplish the goal, we have some things we do as does everyone else that build performance motors. "Performance" means different things in this application and though it seems like it would be a no brainer to slant a build in the right direction, if a builder has not opened that bag of worms before it's like he's doing that particular job for the first time and sorry but you really don;t want antones first effort on something.
So yea, it's all about timing, if you break down on the road and need a motor fast, sometimes you have to settle with what you can get. I had a netter here contact me about this last week, he was interested in maybe having a motor built ahead so there would be always something available for the GMC community. That sounds great but motors and transmissions are like fruit, they go bad sitting on the shelf. The best scario is to have a fresh build checked out just before installation then have is pushed into the coach and the wheels driven of it right away. Actually, that was tried on a 403 Steve was involved with, has anyone used that motor yet?
Timing is the key and if your coach is still running but the motor is weak, it's the best core. A good running motor with no failure trauma are the best parts to start with. I try to not use a core that has blown up, you never know if there is damage unfound. Right now it's a good 60 days to get one of our motors out of Drews hands. I tried to build motors faster going to the largest production builder in the country and while the motors did work out well after they were broken in, there were way to many out of the box problems. These are solved when a preformance builder checks everything on machining and assembly. You cannot expect 8 boxes hold 8 of the same piston to be the same. Everone must be checked and production builders simply cannot take the time (time is money) to do all that.
Gotten too long winded here, sorry. Making a decision on renewing your drive train is not a small or inexpensive project, make wise choices...
Jim Bounds
--------------------------
________________________________
From: Steven Ferguson <botiemad11@gmail.com>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2013 8:24 AM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] motor rebuild directions
Doug,
It's pretty straight forward and anyone you would want to trust with your
baby had better already know how to R&R the engine. Lots of deals out
there on engines, unfortumately, most of them are bad. The GMC community
is down to about 2 or 3 premium engine remanufacturers and we all know who
they are. That's the good news. The bad news is that all of them have
significant backlogs and a 6-9 week delivery time is the norm. Not good
for those milking high mileage engines until they fail and have to be
replaced. Good news for those who are planning on replacing their power
plants before a catastrophic failure forces them to and they take what's
available only to have to replace their bargain motor soon thereafter. If
you are past the point where you trust your engine, or are taking trips
where "hope you make it", get in line now for your replacement engine.
There are NO bargains out there for premium replacement engines. Only
those dodging the junk pile.
On Sun, Mar 17, 2013 at 2:54 AM, Douglas Norton <nortocd@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Heard some rod-like knocking sounds today at about 40 mph. It may not be
> a connecting rod, but I started to wonder where to go to get directions on
> how to remove the motor, and how to rebuild it. Is this info in the CD
> manuals or on line? I am inclined to take it out the bottom since several
> mechanics seem to prefer that. I am not saying I need to, nor that I
> really would do it myself, I just need to know where to get directions. I
> have put so much stuff on and in my coach, I can not afford not to keep it
> running.
>
> Doug Norton
> 73 sequoia with a new TBI and the tiny teal tone tin toad to tow.
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Take care,
Steve
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: [GMCnet] motor rebuild directions [message #202009 is a reply to message #201897] |
Mon, 18 March 2013 08:00 |
Steven Ferguson
Messages: 3447
Registered: May 2006
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Jim,
Dan Winchester just purchased that entire module (Eng + trans) from Kerry
Tandy. Dan was under that cloud of doubt you get when that little voice
tells you that old faithful just doesn't sound like she is supposed to and
it's time to look ahead to new running gear.
Koba engines are one of the top three in my book.
On Sun, Mar 17, 2013 at 6:16 AM, Jim Bounds <gmccoop@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Not cause I hope Steve counts our motors as one of those "good motors" but
> really if you are going to go through all the *&^%$%^&* T to R&R a motor in
> a GMC, it's only smart to put in a specifically tailoered motor that fits
> the needs of low RPM torque. I'm sorry, wish it weren;t true but
> production builders and their ways simply cannot build a motor that has
> reliability on low RPM torque. It's not that they build bad motors but
> Badger pistons simply will not hold up, cheap bearings get hammers and
> adown and dirty valve job does not do you any favors.
>
> Unfortunately also, Steve is right, production builders that have
> identified the GMC market are slammed. Production builders "are not in
> your hurry". They are concerned that everything is right and if there are
> corners to cut, they simple will not and should not by definition of what
> they are trying to do think that way.
>
> Every builder has their "special things" they do to try and accomplish the
> goal, we have some things we do as does everyone else that build
> performance motors. "Performance" means different things in this
> application and though it seems like it would be a no brainer to slant a
> build in the right direction, if a builder has not opened that bag of worms
> before it's like he's doing that particular job for the first time and
> sorry but you really don;t want antones first effort on something.
>
> So yea, it's all about timing, if you break down on the road and need a
> motor fast, sometimes you have to settle with what you can get. I had a
> netter here contact me about this last week, he was interested in maybe
> having a motor built ahead so there would be always something available for
> the GMC community. That sounds great but motors and transmissions are like
> fruit, they go bad sitting on the shelf. The best scario is to have a
> fresh build checked out just before installation then have is pushed into
> the coach and the wheels driven of it right away. Actually, that was tried
> on a 403 Steve was involved with, has anyone used that motor yet?
>
> Timing is the key and if your coach is still running but the motor is
> weak, it's the best core. A good running motor with no failure trauma are
> the best parts to start with. I try to not use a core that has blown up,
> you never know if there is damage unfound. Right now it's a good 60 days
> to get one of our motors out of Drews hands. I tried to build motors
> faster going to the largest production builder in the country and while the
> motors did work out well after they were broken in, there were way to many
> out of the box problems. These are solved when a preformance builder
> checks everything on machining and assembly. You cannot expect 8 boxes
> hold 8 of the same piston to be the same. Everone must be checked and
> production builders simply cannot take the time (time is money) to do all
> that.
>
> Gotten too long winded here, sorry. Making a decision on renewing your
> drive train is not a small or inexpensive project, make wise choices...
>
> Jim Bounds
> --------------------------
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Steven Ferguson <botiemad11@gmail.com>
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2013 8:24 AM
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] motor rebuild directions
>
> Doug,
> It's pretty straight forward and anyone you would want to trust with your
> baby had better already know how to R&R the engine. Lots of deals out
> there on engines, unfortumately, most of them are bad. The GMC community
> is down to about 2 or 3 premium engine remanufacturers and we all know who
> they are. That's the good news. The bad news is that all of them have
> significant backlogs and a 6-9 week delivery time is the norm. Not good
> for those milking high mileage engines until they fail and have to be
> replaced. Good news for those who are planning on replacing their power
> plants before a catastrophic failure forces them to and they take what's
> available only to have to replace their bargain motor soon thereafter. If
> you are past the point where you trust your engine, or are taking trips
> where "hope you make it", get in line now for your replacement engine.
> There are NO bargains out there for premium replacement engines. Only
> those dodging the junk pile.
>
> On Sun, Mar 17, 2013 at 2:54 AM, Douglas Norton <nortocd@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > Heard some rod-like knocking sounds today at about 40 mph. It may not be
> > a connecting rod, but I started to wonder where to go to get directions
> on
> > how to remove the motor, and how to rebuild it. Is this info in the CD
> > manuals or on line? I am inclined to take it out the bottom since
> several
> > mechanics seem to prefer that. I am not saying I need to, nor that I
> > really would do it myself, I just need to know where to get directions.
> I
> > have put so much stuff on and in my coach, I can not afford not to keep
> it
> > running.
> >
> > Doug Norton
> > 73 sequoia with a new TBI and the tiny teal tone tin toad to tow.
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
>
>
>
> --
> Take care,
> Steve
> _______________________________________________
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--
Take care,
Steve
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