Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Now I know why
| Now I know why [message #200369] |
Sat, 02 March 2013 17:28  |
Joe Weir
Messages: 769
Registered: February 2013
Location: Columbia, SC
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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...repairs take so long on the GMC.
Jim B warned me that you don't repair, you rebuild. Compound the problem with only working saturdays when it is dry during daylight. The last three saturdays have been wet.
When we last left our intrepid, but slow, author, the radiator gave up in the driveway on its first voyage home. So I removed the radiator and had it "fixed" at the local radiator shop. They fixed it, but still it looks like it is just waiting to get 100 miles from home to explode.
So, I decide to procure a new radiator. Well, if the radiator is that bad, how about the water pump? And what about the 300 feet of crusty 3/4" heater hose thoughtfully routed through the engine compartment and under the coach so that it rubs on every sharp edge? So I am in essence going backwards, disassembling more and re-assembling less. Even I can recognize a disturbing trend.
Lets not even discuss the miniguns behind the grille project...
That said, there are some interesting things about the heater hose routing I cannot figure out because of previous repairs. All of the hose is 3/4. There are two connections to the heater core, one is a 3/4 and the other a 5/8. They both go back to nylon 5/8ths "Y" connectors at the front and rear of the engine.
Is there supposed to be a stepdown to 5/8 before the "Y"?
The nylon "Y"s look to be solid, but heat cycling has to be an issue, no? Were the Nylon Y's original? Do they hold up?
Any thoughts or tips here would be greatly appreciated
I found some brass pex "T"s that are 5/8 od to use on the 5/8 line, but the 3/4 to 5/8 by torquing down the hose clamp thing seems sketch.
The good news is that the new captain's chairs are in. The ones that came in the coach were mounted precariously with 4" bolts at the front because the front of the seat was thinner than the rear, so it would not sit level mounted flat. The old seats were somewhat ratty anyway. They are available free to a good home, useful if you drive uphill all the time.
Thanks in advance,
Joe
76 Birchaven - "Wicked Mistress" - New engine, trans, alum radiator, brakes, Sully airbags, fuel lines, seats, adult beverage center... those Coachmen guys were really thinking about us second hand owners by including that beverage center...
Columbia, SC.
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| Re: Now I know why [message #200382 is a reply to message #200369] |
Sat, 02 March 2013 19:27  |
Joe Weir
Messages: 769
Registered: February 2013
Location: Columbia, SC
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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Google is my friend on the front "T" size:
http://gmc.mybirdfeeder.net/GMCforum/index.php?t=msg&goto=188321&rid=0
76 Birchaven - "Wicked Mistress" - New engine, trans, alum radiator, brakes, Sully airbags, fuel lines, seats, adult beverage center... those Coachmen guys were really thinking about us second hand owners by including that beverage center...
Columbia, SC.
[Updated on: Sat, 02 March 2013 19:29] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Now I know why [message #200383 is a reply to message #200369] |
Sat, 02 March 2013 19:29 |
kerry pinkerton
Messages: 2565
Registered: July 2012
Location: Harvest, Al
Karma: 15
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Senior Member |
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I know of what you speak. I've basically working toward replacing everything on the my coach. I've found over the years that it's easier to just do them all and get it over with.
The radiator shop should be able to tell you how 'good' the radiator is. If they think it's not going to hold up...trust them.
They can recore it or you can go with an aluminum one (like mine). The guy who sells them is in the Carolinas somewhere.
The crusty heater hose should probably be replaced while you have the engine cover off. I wouldn't trust nylon personally but you can find aluminum Tees for underground water pipes and sprinkler systems. You should be able to cinch down the 3/4 to fit a 5/8...or you can get an adapter. The hoses that go toward the back of the coach are for the heat exchanger in the hot water heater.
Might as well change the thermostat while you're at it.
Just my opinion.
Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama
Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
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| Re: Now I know why [message #200386 is a reply to message #200369] |
Sat, 02 March 2013 19:47 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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Plastic sounds like part of a Prestone flush n fill kit from some PO days past. There are plastic and metal water valves depending on source. Not sure which is better. I think the metal fail as in corode and don't work, and the plastic fail as in coolant everywhere. I went through the fact that everything attached to something else needed to be fixed or replaced. Once you go full circle, you end up with a dependable coach you can enjoy. Some people who are less mechaniclly inclined than some of us get by, which sometimes amazes me as to the durability of these machines considering their age.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: Now I know why [message #200395 is a reply to message #200383] |
Sat, 02 March 2013 21:02 |
Joe Weir
Messages: 769
Registered: February 2013
Location: Columbia, SC
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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| Kerry Pinkerton wrote on Sat, 02 March 2013 19:29 |
I know of what you speak. I've basically working toward replacing everything on the my coach. I've found over the years that it's easier to just do them all and get it over with.
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This was my plan all along, you just never know until you get it apart.
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The radiator shop should be able to tell you how 'good' the radiator is. If they think it's not going to hold up...trust them.
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THAT radiator shop closed up a few years back. This shop will get you on the road cheap, but the radiator was really shot. Once upon a time I'd have re-installed it just to see how long it would last. I'm no fun anymore, apparently.
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They can recore it or you can go with an aluminum one (like mine). The guy who sells them is in the Carolinas somewhere.
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Its here and a beaut. Wanted to get the hose installed first.
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Might as well change the thermostat while you're at it.
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Supposedly done in the initial service before it came home, but the bolts don't look like they have been disturbed. I'll be checking that before its done.
Thanks
76 Birchaven - "Wicked Mistress" - New engine, trans, alum radiator, brakes, Sully airbags, fuel lines, seats, adult beverage center... those Coachmen guys were really thinking about us second hand owners by including that beverage center...
Columbia, SC.
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| Re: Now I know why [message #200397 is a reply to message #200386] |
Sat, 02 March 2013 21:06 |
Joe Weir
Messages: 769
Registered: February 2013
Location: Columbia, SC
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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| JohnL455 wrote on Sat, 02 March 2013 19:47 |
Plastic sounds like part of a Prestone flush n fill kit from some PO days past. There are plastic and metal water valves depending on source. Not sure which is better. I think the metal fail as in corode and don't work, and the plastic fail as in coolant everywhere.
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So what were the original t's made of?
76 Birchaven - "Wicked Mistress" - New engine, trans, alum radiator, brakes, Sully airbags, fuel lines, seats, adult beverage center... those Coachmen guys were really thinking about us second hand owners by including that beverage center...
Columbia, SC.
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| Re: Now I know why [message #200441 is a reply to message #200432] |
Sun, 03 March 2013 08:30 |
Joe Weir
Messages: 769
Registered: February 2013
Location: Columbia, SC
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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| Larry wrote on Sun, 03 March 2013 07:04 |
Joe,
If you choose to replace the radiator with an aluminum one, DO NOT throw the old radiator out. Take it to a radiator shop and have the right and left tanks removed and keep them. IIRC they are unique to the GMCMH. Hold on to them for another GMC'r who may need the tanks for a core rebuild. JWID
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Don't worry, I have the radiator stored. It has been pressure tested, and I'm sure it would do fine. However, it looks like hell. If I were strapped for cash or stranded I would have re-installed it and motored on. Didn't seem the prudent thing to do with the time and money (right now) to get new. Its a good spare, and I have a hard enough time throwing out bad spares (as the local zoning Nazi will attest).
76 Birchaven - "Wicked Mistress" - New engine, trans, alum radiator, brakes, Sully airbags, fuel lines, seats, adult beverage center... those Coachmen guys were really thinking about us second hand owners by including that beverage center...
Columbia, SC.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Now I know why [message #200462 is a reply to message #200432] |
Sun, 03 March 2013 10:41 |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Good call on the rad tanks Larry. Joe, a sawzall will make quick work of removing the tanks if you don't want to pay a rad shop just make sure you cut the core not the tanks ;)
Sully
77 royale
Seattle
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 3, 2013, at 5:04 AM, Larry <weidnerl@wwt.net> wrote:
>
>
> Joe,
> If you choose to replace the radiator with an aluminum one, DO NOT throw the old radiator out. Take it to a radiator shop and have the right and left tanks removed and keep them. IIRC they are unique to the GMCMH. Hold on to them for another GMC'r who may need the tanks for a core rebuild. JWID
> --
> Larry :)
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
> _______________________________________________
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Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Now I know why [message #200523 is a reply to message #200369] |
Sun, 03 March 2013 19:41 |
Brian Waddell
Messages: 409
Registered: March 2010
Karma: -4
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Senior Member |
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where dfd you get nes front seats?....brian 77 ele 455
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> From: joeweir@gmail.com
> Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2013 17:28:51 -0600
> Subject: [GMCnet] Now I know why
>
>
>
> ...repairs take so long on the GMC.
>
> Jim B warned me that you don't repair, you rebuild. Compound the problem with only working saturdays when it is dry during daylight. The last three saturdays have been wet.
>
> When we last left our intrepid, but slow, author, the radiator gave up in the driveway on its first voyage home. So I removed the radiator and had it "fixed" at the local radiator shop. They fixed it, but still it looks like it is just waiting to get 100 miles from home to explode.
>
> So, I decide to procure a new radiator. Well, if the radiator is that bad, how about the water pump? And what about the 300 feet of crusty 3/4" heater hose thoughtfully routed through the engine compartment and under the coach so that it rubs on every sharp edge? So I am in essence going backwards, disassembling more and re-assembling less. Even I can recognize a disturbing trend.
>
> Lets not even discuss the miniguns behind the grille project...
>
> That said, there are some interesting things about the heater hose routing I cannot figure out because of previous repairs. All of the hose is 3/4. There are two connections to the heater core, one is a 3/4 and the other a 5/8. They both go back to nylon 5/8ths "Y" connectors at the front and rear of the engine.
>
> Is there supposed to be a stepdown to 5/8 before the "Y"?
>
> The nylon "Y"s look to be solid, but heat cycling has to be an issue, no? Were the Nylon Y's original? Do they hold up?
>
> Any thoughts or tips here would be greatly appreciated
>
> I found some brass pex "T"s that are 5/8 od to use on the 5/8 line, but the 3/4 to 5/8 by torquing down the hose clamp thing seems sketch.
>
> The good news is that the new captain's chairs are in. The ones that came in the coach were mounted precariously with 4" bolts at the front because the front of the seat was thinner than the rear, so it would not sit level mounted flat. The old seats were somewhat ratty anyway. They are available free to a good home, useful if you drive uphill all the time.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Joe
>
>
>
>
>
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> GMCnet mailing list
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| Re: Now I know why [message #200535 is a reply to message #200369] |
Sun, 03 March 2013 22:53 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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When I rebuilt all of the wiring and hoses on my coach after the engine fire, a new 3/4" "tee" was available from NAPA. For the 5/8" "tee" I made it out of copper water pipe connections from the hardware store. After soldering, I bead blasted the surface to clean it thoroughly and then painted it with clear coat. This way I can, in the future, see if anything is leaking or discoloring at the connections.
After connecting the hoses, I mounted both tees to the bottom of the floor. One near the right front of the engine for the water pump connection (I believe that is the 3/4" one) and one near the right rear of the engine for the intake manifold connection. The hose pair run parallel to each other to bot the rear water heater and the front cabin heater. Now the only hoses with any movement from the engine running is on the two single hoses between the tees and the engine. It also made the immediate engine area much less cluttered with all of the hoses out of the way.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Now I know why [message #200540 is a reply to message #200535] |
Mon, 04 March 2013 03:05 |
mickeysss
Messages: 1476
Registered: January 2012
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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do you have any pictures, and i am sorry i did not clear the idea that the jail was the hospital. ~!
I have learned a lot from you here and hope to stay out of jail from it. :-)
"Thank you"
mickey :-)
77 palm beach
anaheim ca.
On Mar 3, 2013, at 8:53 PM, Ken Burton wrote:
>
>
> When I rebuilt all of the wiring and hoses on my coach after the engine fire, a new 3/4" "tee" was available from NAPA. For the 5/8" "tee" I made it out of copper water pipe connections from the hardware store. After soldering, I bead blasted the surface to clean it thoroughly and then painted it with clear coat. This way I can, in the future, see if anything is leaking or discoloring at the connections.
>
> After connecting the hoses, I mounted both tees to the bottom of the floor. One near the right front of the engine for the water pump connection (I believe that is the 3/4" one) and one near the right rear of the engine for the intake manifold connection. The hose pair run parallel to each other to bot the rear water heater and the front cabin heater. Now the only hoses with any movement from the engine running is on the two single hoses between the tees and the engine. It also made the immediate engine area much less cluttered with all of the hoses out of the way.
>
>
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: [GMCnet] Now I know why [message #200541 is a reply to message #200523] |
Mon, 04 March 2013 05:37 |
Joe Weir
Messages: 769
Registered: February 2013
Location: Columbia, SC
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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| Brian Waddell wrote on Sun, 03 March 2013 19:41 |
where dfd you get nes front seats?....brian 77 ele 455
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I took a chance and made an offer on a set of brand new velour motorhome seats on fleabay.
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/LIGHT-BROWN-CUSTOM-VAN-SEATS-CHEVY-SEAT-PLUSH-RV-CAMPER-MOTORHOME-TRAILER-BUS-/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/$(KGrHqN,!n0F!J08q,s7BQPR5iF93!~~60_57.JPG
Luckily, they are neither of the two colors in the photo. A nice khaki tan. They were a good contrast match for the brown cockpit. Got them for $400 for the pair. The trick will be finding a match for the rest of the upholstery without getting too spendy.
76 Birchaven - "Wicked Mistress" - New engine, trans, alum radiator, brakes, Sully airbags, fuel lines, seats, adult beverage center... those Coachmen guys were really thinking about us second hand owners by including that beverage center...
Columbia, SC.
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| Re: Now I know why [message #200542 is a reply to message #200535] |
Mon, 04 March 2013 05:51 |
Joe Weir
Messages: 769
Registered: February 2013
Location: Columbia, SC
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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I installed the rear half of the hoses, just as you described, yesterday.
It looked like the PO had trimmed the ends on the heater hoses once or twice before during repairs as they ended up routing both forward hoses over the radiator to the driver side of the cap, where it was busy wearing a hole through on the edge of the support. Of course the rest of it was routed in such a way as to doubt the previous mechanic's sanity. There is a ton of room, why does everything have to lay in the intake valley or within 1/2" of the exhaust manifold?
| Ken Burton wrote on Sun, 03 March 2013 22:53 |
After connecting the hoses, I mounted both tees to the bottom of the floor. One near the right front of the engine for the water pump connection (I believe that is the 3/4" one) and one near the right rear of the engine for the intake manifold connection. The hose pair run parallel to each other to bot the rear water heater and the front cabin heater. Now the only hoses with any movement from the engine running is on the two single hoses between the tees and the engine. It also made the immediate engine area much less cluttered with all of the hoses out of the way.
|
76 Birchaven - "Wicked Mistress" - New engine, trans, alum radiator, brakes, Sully airbags, fuel lines, seats, adult beverage center... those Coachmen guys were really thinking about us second hand owners by including that beverage center...
Columbia, SC.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Now I know why [message #200827 is a reply to message #200802] |
Wed, 06 March 2013 21:52 |
Joe Weir
Messages: 769
Registered: February 2013
Location: Columbia, SC
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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Sorry about that. The forum software truncated that one.
76 Birchaven - "Wicked Mistress" - New engine, trans, alum radiator, brakes, Sully airbags, fuel lines, seats, adult beverage center... those Coachmen guys were really thinking about us second hand owners by including that beverage center...
Columbia, SC.
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