Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » I have a great idea for a place for a work rally!! My place and my coach!!!
| I have a great idea for a place for a work rally!! My place and my coach!!! [message #199370] |
Fri, 22 February 2013 18:52  |
mojoe
Messages: 319
Registered: November 2012
Location: Monroe, NC
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Just kidding.. well not really..lol Seems like with all I need to do to Odie many could learn from the hands on experince.. and for the ones that know how to do it, they could supervise the rest of us..
Great idea right?
Well when you get done laughing.. I need to talk brakes.
Odie is flying all wheels off the ground so its brake time.
Have a recipt for brake work from PO but have not checked anything yet.
Before you read the following.. Odie has not run or stopped on his own for 10 years. master cylinder is gummed up and not working.
Running now.. well did for a bit till starter quit. Had starter rebuilt and putting it on Sunday before starting brake work.
What I have on my list to do for brakes.
* New rear and front rubber brake lines. Best and cheapest place to purchase?
* Master cylinder. Best and cheapest place to get. Part brand and number?
* Booster? Would you change it without checking it first?
* Wheel cylinders. Again best and cheapest place.. brand and part number.
* Brake lines. I know they need to be upgraded but could I do the rest and upgrade later? Blow them out with air?
* What about rear wheel bearings do I need to check them now?
* I have front wheel bearings on another list after I get done with the brakes.
* Shoes and pads.. If they are new can I leave them alone and not turn the disk or drums if they have a little surface rust?
Sure would be easier with 4 or 5 guys or girls turnning wrenches!
Sooner I get done the sooner I get to go to all the rallies..
When is good for you?
Joe Kemenczky..
1975 Eleganza ll " Odie " 75,000 miles..
"When I was younger, I could remember anything, whether it had happened or not." - Mark Twain.
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| Re: I have a great idea for a place for a work rally!! My place and my coach!!! [message #199390 is a reply to message #199370] |
Fri, 22 February 2013 19:57  |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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| toyomojoe wrote on Fri, 22 February 2013 19:52 |
Just kidding.. well not really..lol Seems like with all I need to do to Odie many could learn from the hands on experince.. and for the ones that know how to do it, they could supervise the rest of us..
Great idea right?
Well when you get done laughing.. I need to talk brakes.
Odie is flying all wheels off the ground so its brake time.
Have a recipt for brake work from PO but have not checked anything yet.
Before you read the following.. Odie has not run or stopped on his own for 10 years. master cylinder is gummed up and not working.
Running now.. well did for a bit till starter quit. Had starter rebuilt and putting it on Sunday before starting brake work.
What I have on my list to do for brakes.
* New rear and front rubber brake lines. Best and cheapest place to purchase?
best,stainless from the Jims, cheepest use 2 lh front brake lines for 76 toro.
* Master cylinder. Best and cheapest place to get. Part brand and number?
best jims, cheepest AZ M1730
* Booster? Would you change it without checking it first?
yes, if mc is gummed up it is just as old or older.
* Wheel cylinders. Again best and cheapest place.. brand and part number.
Jim K got everybody beat on the wheel cyl, the correct inside rubber dust rubbers.
* Brake lines. I know they need to be upgraded but could I do the rest and upgrade later? Blow them out with air?
blow them out with carb cleaner then shop air, if you are happy with the results, use it, if not change it.
* What about rear wheel bearings do I need to check them now?
yes
* I have front wheel bearings on another list after I get done with the brakes.
* Shoes and pads.. If they are new can I leave them alone and not turn the disk or drums if they have a little surface rust?
If the drums are scored, have hot spots or out of round they should be turned or replaced. If just rusty or shiney rough sand paper is ok. The coach came with carbon metallic pads and rivited shoes. If your shoes are rivited and in good shape deglaze and use. O`reillys has the cm front pads for 76 toro, carbon metallic rear shoes are Jim K.
Sure would be easier with 4 or 5 guys or girls turnning wrenches!
Sooner I get done the sooner I get to go to all the rallies..
When is good for you?
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C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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| Re: I have a great idea for a place for a work rally!! My place and my coach!!! [message #199393 is a reply to message #199390] |
Fri, 22 February 2013 20:09 |
A Hamilto
Messages: 4508
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 39
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Senior Member |
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| C Boyd wrote on Fri, 22 February 2013 19:57 |
| toyomojoe wrote on Fri, 22 February 2013 19:52 |
Just kidding.. well not really..lol Seems like with all I need to do to Odie many could learn from the hands on experince.. and for the ones that know how to do it, they could supervise the rest of us..
Great idea right?
Well when you get done laughing.. I need to talk brakes.
Odie is flying all wheels off the ground so its brake time.
Have a recipt for brake work from PO but have not checked anything yet.
Before you read the following.. Odie has not run or stopped on his own for 10 years. master cylinder is gummed up and not working.
Running now.. well did for a bit till starter quit. Had starter rebuilt and putting it on Sunday before starting brake work.
What I have on my list to do for brakes.
* New rear and front rubber brake lines. Best and cheapest place to purchase?
|
best,stainless from the Jims, cheepest use 2 lh front brake lines for 76 toro.| Quote: |
* Master cylinder. Best and cheapest place to get. Part brand and number?
|
best jims, cheepest AZ M1730| Quote: |
* Booster? Would you change it without checking it first?
|
yes, if mc is gummed up it is just as old or older.| Quote: |
* Wheel cylinders. Again best and cheapest place.. brand and part number.
|
Jim K got everybody beat on the wheel cyl, the correct inside rubber dust rubbers.| Quote: |
* Brake lines. I know they need to be upgraded but could I do the rest and upgrade later? Blow them out with air?
|
blow them out with carb cleaner then shop air, if you are happy with the results, use it, if not change it.| Quote: |
* What about rear wheel bearings do I need to check them now?
|
yes| Quote: |
* I have front wheel bearings on another list after I get done with the brakes.
* Shoes and pads.. If they are new can I leave them alone and not turn the disk or drums if they have a little surface rust?
|
If the drums are scored, have hot spots or out of round they should be turned or replaced. If just rusty or shiney rough sand paper is ok. The coach came with carbon metallic pads and rivited shoes. If your shoes are rivited and in good shape deglaze and use. O`reillys has the cm front pads for 76 toro, carbon metallic rear shoes are Jim K.| Quote: |
Sure would be easier with 4 or 5 guys or girls turnning wrenches!
Sooner I get done the sooner I get to go to all the rallies..
When is good for you?
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| Re: I have a great idea for a place for a work rally!! My place and my coach!!! [message #199441 is a reply to message #199393] |
Sat, 23 February 2013 08:35 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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Sir: a couple of things I forgot. On the rotors they should be inspected as the drums. If you have a bad rotor I recommend replacing since you have to seperate the hubs from the knuckles to get it off. You can use a 76 Toro rotor, but you have to have it machined for 4 holes and the center hole enlarged, ends up being cheeper to get from Jim K. The rear T brake line can be made at Royal Brass, any rubber line you have made blow shop air thru it before installing in case they left a little rubber ball in the line when crimping. Also I would suggest getting a new brass brake valve from Jim K. Brakes is something you want to do right and only once. I would also suggest getting a power bleeder from Jim H. It makes for a one man bleeding operation without having to pump the master cyl.
| A Hamilto wrote on Fri, 22 February 2013 21:09 |
| C Boyd wrote on Fri, 22 February 2013 19:57 |
| toyomojoe wrote on Fri, 22 February 2013 19:52 |
Just kidding.. well not really..lol Seems like with all I need to do to Odie many could learn from the hands on experince.. and for the ones that know how to do it, they could supervise the rest of us..
Great idea right?
Well when you get done laughing.. I need to talk brakes.
Odie is flying all wheels off the ground so its brake time.
Have a recipt for brake work from PO but have not checked anything yet.
Before you read the following.. Odie has not run or stopped on his own for 10 years. master cylinder is gummed up and not working.
Running now.. well did for a bit till starter quit. Had starter rebuilt and putting it on Sunday before starting brake work.
What I have on my list to do for brakes.
* New rear and front rubber brake lines. Best and cheapest place to purchase?
|
best,stainless from the Jims, cheepest use 2 lh front brake lines for 76 toro.| Quote: |
* Master cylinder. Best and cheapest place to get. Part brand and number?
|
best jims, cheepest AZ M1730| Quote: |
* Booster? Would you change it without checking it first?
|
yes, if mc is gummed up it is just as old or older.| Quote: |
* Wheel cylinders. Again best and cheapest place.. brand and part number.
|
Jim K got everybody beat on the wheel cyl, the correct inside rubber dust rubbers.| Quote: |
* Brake lines. I know they need to be upgraded but could I do the rest and upgrade later? Blow them out with air?
|
blow them out with carb cleaner then shop air, if you are happy with the results, use it, if not change it.| Quote: |
* What about rear wheel bearings do I need to check them now?
|
yes| Quote: |
* I have front wheel bearings on another list after I get done with the brakes.
* Shoes and pads.. If they are new can I leave them alone and not turn the disk or drums if they have a little surface rust?
|
If the drums are scored, have hot spots or out of round they should be turned or replaced. If just rusty or shiney rough sand paper is ok. The coach came with carbon metallic pads and rivited shoes. If your shoes are rivited and in good shape deglaze and use. O`reillys has the cm front pads for 76 toro, carbon metallic rear shoes are Jim K.| Quote: |
Sure would be easier with 4 or 5 guys or girls turnning wrenches!
Sooner I get done the sooner I get to go to all the rallies..
When is good for you?
|
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C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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| Re: [GMCnet] I have a great idea for a place for a work rally!! My place and my coach!!! [message #199450 is a reply to message #199370] |
Sat, 23 February 2013 09:15 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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Joe, a piece of advice from me. I work on brakes on gmc's a lot. Do not
take the cheapest way through this job. If you are paying labor to someone
else, and you are doing all 6 wheels, Expect to pay somewhere between
$1000.00 and $1500.00 if you replace the rotors and master cylinder. If
your flex lines are original, replace them with stainless steel D.O.T.
approved ones. Replace the self adjuster star wheels in the rear brakes if
they are worn, springs too. Do it once, do it right. Your life and the
lives of others are depending on it.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403
On Feb 22, 2013 4:52 PM, "Joe Kemenczky" <toyomojoe@live.com> wrote:
>
>
> Just kidding.. well not really..lol Seems like with all I need to do to
> Odie many could learn from the hands on experince.. and for the ones that
> know how to do it, they could supervise the rest of us..
>
> Great idea right?
>
> Well when you get done laughing.. I need to talk brakes.
>
> Odie is flying all wheels off the ground so its brake time.
> Have a recipt for brake work from PO but have not checked anything yet.
>
> Before you read the following.. Odie has not run or stopped on his own for
> 10 years. master cylinder is gummed up and not working.
>
> Running now.. well did for a bit till starter quit. Had starter rebuilt
> and putting it on Sunday before starting brake work.
>
> What I have on my list to do for brakes.
> * New rear and front rubber brake lines. Best and cheapest place to
> purchase?
> * Master cylinder. Best and cheapest place to get. Part brand and number?
> * Booster? Would you change it without checking it first?
> * Wheel cylinders. Again best and cheapest place.. brand and part number.
> * Brake lines. I know they need to be upgraded but could I do the rest and
> upgrade later? Blow them out with air?
> * What about rear wheel bearings do I need to check them now?
> * I have front wheel bearings on another list after I get done with the
> brakes.
> * Shoes and pads.. If they are new can I leave them alone and not turn the
> disk or drums if they have a little surface rust?
>
> Sure would be easier with 4 or 5 guys or girls turnning wrenches!
>
> Sooner I get done the sooner I get to go to all the rallies..
>
> When is good for you?
> --
> Joe Kemenczky
> 1975 Eleganza ll (Odie) 75,000 miles.
> Working on complete restoration. In year 2 of a 3 year restoration.
> Loving every minute!
> Monroe, NC (East of Charlotte).
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] I have a great idea for a place for a work rally!! My place and my coach!!! [message #199462 is a reply to message #199450] |
Sat, 23 February 2013 10:26 |
mojoe
Messages: 319
Registered: November 2012
Location: Monroe, NC
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Thanks Jim. not looking for the cheapest but have to watch pennies I dont have thanks to the economy. Iwant it safe and usable now and maybe upgrade to better when money allows. Am doing brakes myself with help of neighbor mech when I need it. i like to do things myself just to learn. never know when it may help me or someone else.
Chuck sugested also changing the brass brake valve (located inside the wheel well on drivers side?)while Iwas at it.
I have a electric brake switch on my dash that i think runs to the brake valve. your suggestions on leaving it on the coach? dont know anythig about it.
Chuck also suggested me talking to you about the pressure bleeder you make..
Joe Kemenczky..
1975 Eleganza ll " Odie " 75,000 miles..
"When I was younger, I could remember anything, whether it had happened or not." - Mark Twain.
.
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| Re: [GMCnet] I have a great idea for a place for a work rally!! My place and my coach!!! [message #199465 is a reply to message #199462] |
Sat, 23 February 2013 10:55 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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A simple test to tell if you need to replace the Master Cylinder is to
remove the cover, and using a good strong light source, and perhaps an
inspection mirror. ( I use a rear view mirror from a motorcycle that is
round and has a round rod extended from the back with a swivel feature.)
What you are looking for is an accumulation of rust and scale on the floor
of the resevoir. If the brake fluid is just cloudy and red colored, with no
residue, then just take a turkey baster from the dollar store, and suck out
all the old fluid and replace it. If the M/C is ok, then it is most likely
that the combination valve is O.K. also. But if the M/C is bad, then
probably everything downstream from there needs a careful inspection.
Combination valve, rigid lines, flexible lines, and wheel cylinders. Remove
the rear wheels, and check the rubber boots around the wheel cylinders. Any
sign of leakage here, replace ALL wheel cylinders with new ones. The
combination valve is a serious pain in the butt to replace. I rarely can
remove one without twisting one of the brake lines off. Use a good
penetrating oil on the fittings where the line enters it, and use a hand
held wire brush to clean the crud around the fittings so the penetrant can
reach the spaces between the fittings and the lines. Heat from a heat gun
will help speed the process up. Think ahead of your moves. One harsh pull
on the wrench can make several hours of work for you. Use fitting wrenches,
good ones that fit tightly. If all else fails, and you break a line or
round off a fitting, vice grips are your friend. You are going to have to
make up some new lines with double flares. This is a skilled process. If
you do not have the flaring tools, leave it to someone who has them and
knows how to use them. When all work is done, then you have to flush the
system and bleed the brakes. The rear brake shoes have to be adjusted
properly. What I do is adjust the starwheels on the drum brakes until they
are tight and difficult to move. Then I use a probe, release the ratchet
pawl on the starwheel, and back off 5 or 10 clicks and try to turn the
drum. If it does not move, back off another 5, and try to turn the drum.
When the drum moves with only slight dragging sound, quit. When the drum
heats up, it expands away from the brake shoes. I make a bleeder system to
power bleed the brakes. It sells for $75.00 plus shipping. Makes bleeding a
one person job. If you are interested in one, let me know.
Jim Hupy
Salem, OR
78 GMC Royale 403
On Sat, Feb 23, 2013 at 8:26 AM, Joe Kemenczky <toyomojoe@live.com> wrote:
>
>
> Thanks Jim. not looking for the cheapest but have to watch pennies I dont
> have thanks to the economy. Iwant it safe and usable now and maybe upgrade
> to better when money allows. Am doing brakes myself with help of neighbor
> mech when I need it. i like to do things myself just to learn. never know
> when it may help me or someone else.
> Chuck sugested also changing the brass brake valve (located inside the
> wheel well on drivers side?)while Iwas at it.
> I have a electric brake switch on my dash that i think runs to the brake
> valve. your suggestions on leaving it on the coach? dont know anythig about
> it.
>
> Chuck also suggested me talking to you about the pressure bleeder you
> make..
> --
> Joe Kemenczky
> 1975 Eleganza ll (Odie) 75,000 miles.
> Working on complete restoration. In year 2 of a 3 year restoration.
> Loving every minute!
> Monroe, NC (East of Charlotte).
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
_______________________________________________
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| Re: [GMCnet] I have a great idea for a place for a work rally!! My place and my coach!!! [message #199474 is a reply to message #199465] |
Sat, 23 February 2013 14:17 |
mojoe
Messages: 319
Registered: November 2012
Location: Monroe, NC
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Jim thanks for all the info and tricks of the trade. Master cyld is toast all gummed up.Hopefully its only in the master cyld. Im gonna start pulling it apart next week and get my list up to order the parts. I never knew brakes would cost so much.. but again I do want to stop!
Question: if the lines seem clean or not bad, would you think the combination valve might be ok? Or can i try it without changing it?
Another question: there is a electric brake switch on the dash to the valve. Is this worth keeping?
Another question: would it be ok to pick your brain as I go along?
Thanks J
Joe Kemenczky..
1975 Eleganza ll " Odie " 75,000 miles..
"When I was younger, I could remember anything, whether it had happened or not." - Mark Twain.
.
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| Re: [GMCnet] I have a great idea for a place for a work rally!! My place and my coach!!! [message #199481 is a reply to message #199480] |
Sat, 23 February 2013 16:04 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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|
Richard, we try to cover that at rallies. It is a huge added benefit of
attending them, along with the vendors and the other programs. Oh, I forgot
happy hour! How the heck did I forget that? Also the GMC forum and GMCnet.
No other motor home group can match what the GMC groups have. Just because
you are new to the group, do not feel afraid to ask questions. If you have
a genuine request, you will usually get plenty of answers. Good and
otherwise.[grin]
Jim Hupy
Salem, OR
78 GMC Royale 403
On Sat, Feb 23, 2013 at 1:53 PM, Richard Andis <andisnw@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> Nothing wrong with a "Work Rally", or "Wrench Party". We do that a lot in
> the VW community. Especially for us newbies. It would be nice to have a GMC
> maintenance 101 class to cover the basic needs.
>
>
> --
> "Vahalla" - 1978 GMC Royale,
> "Walküre" - 1974 VW Thing
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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