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Placing Floor Jack and Jack Stand Placement [message #198820] Mon, 18 February 2013 00:35 Go to next message
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Re: [GMCnet] Placing Floor Jack and Jack Stand Placement [message #198821 is a reply to message #198820] Mon, 18 February 2013 00:49 Go to previous messageGo to next message
mickeysss is currently offline  mickeysss   United States
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The main thing to remember is jack up the front from the middle first so you do not crack the windshields. To do one side high will crack and cost

$500 for one side plus shipping or so. It is a good idea to get one of these center jack pads

http://gmcwsproducts.blogspot.com/2010/04/gmc-jack-pad-for-front.html

i would like to make the 2x4 wood stands but do not yet get the time and place to cut and construct them.

If anyone has a set that is not used in L.A. area let me know i may rent or buy them from them etc. mickey

77 palm beach

anaheim ca.

If someone has some to sell let me know. I am very interested.


On Feb 17, 2013, at 10:35 PM, Joe Crutchfield wrote:

>
>
> I am preparing to place my GMC on jack stands in order to work underneath it on the exhaust system, inspection of fuel and holding tanks, do some holding tank plumbing repair, pull the wheels for inspection and repair of front and rear brakes, possible shock replacement, etc. Since the PO installed new tires recently I plan to continue using the 16.5 inch wheels at least until I need to replace the tires and I plan to have the wheels sand blasted and powdercoated while I have the wheels off.
>
> I am building four of Steve Southworth's wooden jack stands and would like some advice on jack placement and jack stand placement. It may be on these stands for a few weeks.
>
> From reading as many of the posts as I could find I have concluded that I will use two floor jacks and jack the rear of the coach up first and place the rear jack stands.
>
> Then I will use two jacks and jack the front of the coach up and place the front jack stands.
>
> My question is where should I place the jacks under the frame in the back and front? and where should I place the jack stands?
>
> I would appreciate any input.
> --
> Joe Crutchfield,
> Watertown, TN,
> 77 Royale by Coachman, Rear Bath, 455, 3.07,
>
> "Strangers are just friends I haven't met yet" - Will Rogers.
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Re: [GMCnet] Placing Floor Jack and Jack Stand Placement [message #198823 is a reply to message #198821] Mon, 18 February 2013 00:57 Go to previous messageGo to next message
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Re: [GMCnet] Placing Floor Jack and Jack Stand Placement [message #198825 is a reply to message #198823] Mon, 18 February 2013 01:23 Go to previous messageGo to next message
mickeysss is currently offline  mickeysss   United States
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thanks for the 96 inch info, will rogers ranch is here on sunset blvd and they have polo played there every summer. I love will rogers.

He was the first mayor of Beverly Hills city. I have had tours of his house here and it is a very interesting life to study.


http://www.willrogersranchfoundation.org/index.html

Above is the home page to start studying will rogers.

"A fool and his money is soon elected" - will rogers.

mickey

77 palm beach

anaheim ca.






On Feb 17, 2013, at 10:57 PM, Joe Crutchfield wrote:

>
>
> Thanks Mickey. I bought 10 2x4s, be sure to get them 96 inches long and not the 92 inch stud length. It took me about an hour on my chop saw to cut them to length and I am ready to assemble them tomorrow. It shouldn't take more than about 20 minutes to assembly each one of them. I wish I was close enough to you and I would do it for you.
> --
> Joe Crutchfield,
> Watertown, TN,
> 77 Royale by Coachman, Rear Bath, 455, 3.07,
>
> "Strangers are just friends I haven't met yet" - Will Rogers.
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Re: [GMCnet] Placing Floor Jack and Jack Stand Placement [message #198829 is a reply to message #198825] Mon, 18 February 2013 06:01 Go to previous messageGo to next message
tphipps is currently offline  tphipps   United States
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My jacking methods, your mileage may vary.
Block the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
Front End: on the crossmember under the engine, there are two holes. These provide access to bolts holding front engine mount. Use your floor jack here, it is near the centerline of the coach. Have jack stands at the ready at both ends of the doubled joint of the crossmember and the frame. Jack it up slowly, sliding the jacks stands up at each end equally in height. As soon as possible, slide the jack stands under the crossmember, and then continue to jack the coach to the desired height by jacking and adjusting the jack stands in stages. You want the jack stands in place to catch the coach, if the jack fails or the lifting point slips.
Rear End: lift with the floor jack under the boogie. After taking the load off the wheels, but before they leave the ground, deflate the air bags. Place the jack stands either under the doubled section of the frame or the boggie (depending how you lifted the rear.). When lifting the rear of the coach, I do not set the parking brake, as you lift the rear, the wheels will move the contact point.
If you have the JmK boggie hook to use with the typical bottle jack, the instructions indicate a different front lift method. Also using the boggie hook and bottle jack, it is much easier to block the rear wheels under the boggie, instead of the frame. You may also find it useful to slide a piece of steel under the boggie arms, thru the boggie body to keep the air bag from expanding and damaging your shocks.
I also have some blocks of 4x6 blocks that I put under the frame as additional safety measure. I have seen a coach fall, after the jack exploded. It hits the ground very fast, and it still weights about 6 tons.
I hope this helps. Please use a spotter.
Tom, MS II


2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552 KA4CSG
Re: Placing Floor Jack and Jack Stand Placement [message #198840 is a reply to message #198820] Mon, 18 February 2013 07:29 Go to previous messageGo to next message
RF_Burns is currently offline  RF_Burns   Canada
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I'm no expert here, but my farmboy mechanics and observation of the physics of raising the GMC has lead me to this procedure.

The manual shows only 3 places to safely lift the GMC. The center of the front frame member at the front of the engine, and the two bogie mount castings at the rear.

If you have only one jack (I use a floor jack in this case), then you must raise the rear first one side at a time, then raise the front. My reasoning for this is unless you have 2 substantial jacks, you can only lift one side of the rear at a time. If you lifted the front first and set it on jack stands, then raising one side of the rear is going to twist the frame (and the attached body) because the front being set on stands cannot flex.

Raise one side of the rear, then the other. The front suspension will allow this with minimal frame flexing. Then the whole front can be raised from the center point.

Be careful to raise the front on the cross frame member and not the bottom of the radiator frame ( I caught a Mechanic about to jack from there on my coach!!).

Just my ex-Farmboy obervations.


Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.
1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
Re: [GMCnet] Placing Floor Jack and Jack Stand Placement [message #198856 is a reply to message #198840] Mon, 18 February 2013 08:51 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Bruce Hart is currently offline  Bruce Hart   United States
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From my experience with putting my donor coach on the wooden jack stands,
do as Bruce says and jack up the rear first. While I did the front first I
found that lifting the one side of the rear caused the frame to twist and
lift off one of the jack stands in front.

On Mon, Feb 18, 2013 at 6:29 AM, Bruce Hislop <bruce@perthcomm.com> wrote:

>
>
> I'm no expert here, but my farmboy mechanics and observation of the
> physics of raising the GMC has lead me to this procedure.
>
> The manual shows only 3 places to safely lift the GMC. The center of the
> front frame member at the front of the engine, and the two bogie mount
> castings at the rear.
>
> If you have only one jack (I use a floor jack in this case), then you must
> raise the rear first one side at a time, then raise the front. My
> reasoning for this is unless you have 2 substantial jacks, you can only
> lift one side of the rear at a time. If you lifted the front first and set
> it on jack stands, then raising one side of the rear is going to twist the
> frame (and the attached body) because the front being set on stands cannot
> flex.
>
> Raise one side of the rear, then the other. The front suspension will
> allow this with minimal frame flexing. Then the whole front can be raised
> from the center point.
>
> Be careful to raise the front on the cross frame member and not the bottom
> of the radiator frame ( I caught a Mechanic about to jack from there on my
> coach!!).
>
> Just my ex-Farmboy obervations.
>
> --
> Bruce Hislop
> ON Canada
> 77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.
> Hubler 1 ton front end
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
> My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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>



--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
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Bruce Hart 1976 Palm Beach 1977 28' Kingsley La Grange, Wyoming
Re: Placing Floor Jack and Jack Stand Placement [message #198859 is a reply to message #198820] Mon, 18 February 2013 09:06 Go to previous messageGo to next message
kerry pinkerton is currently offline  kerry pinkerton   United States
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This thread is a couple weeks late but I apparently dodged a bullet. I jacked up the front of my coach one side at a time. No harm but I'll lower it differently now that I know.

Before I jacked up the front, I had the rear bags all the way up.

The front frame is about 16" in the air and supported on 6 ton jack stands at a reinforced point for the front crossmember (behind the subframe.

I was doing some work in the engine compartment (new power steering pump, water pump, starter) but also changed out a rear height control valve. For that I had the bogies sitting on 6x6 blocks. Once that was finished, I raised the coach and let it sit on the air bags for a few days to make sure the system was leak free (it was). Then I slowly lowered the rear down about as far as it would go. This raised the front end another 4-5 inches and made it much easier to work under there.


Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
Re: Placing Floor Jack and Jack Stand Placement [message #198872 is a reply to message #198859] Mon, 18 February 2013 11:36 Go to previous messageGo to next message
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Re: [GMCnet] Placing Floor Jack and Jack Stand Placement [message #198876 is a reply to message #198840] Mon, 18 February 2013 12:20 Go to previous messageGo to next message
mickeysss is currently offline  mickeysss   United States
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Block the wheels. good idea.

THank you for this design. I have not jacked up my palm beach yet and did not think of the front end flexing to adjust for the rear first.

I assume you would let the rear down last as well. These little designs are great, like the $10 Harbor Fr. straps to let down the tanks, these

designs are very good knowledge to obtain. THank you for this info. I ask a carpenter to build me one of these wood pilings and he wanted

$60 each. I told him that was way to much. That was without the wood. How much does 10 of the 96 inch 2x4 wood cost?

"You may also find it useful to slide a piece of steel under the boggie arms, thru the boggie body to keep the air bag from expanding and damaging your shocks."

Does anyone sell these pieces of steel flat bar that slip under the bogie body that save the shocks. So you have to let the air out of the bags

if you use the flat bars under the bogies? How do you do this rear jacking and airbag design correctly???? I think splints of wood are used as well?

Is there a way of jacking with out splints etc. in the rear, with the airbags?

I use a ramp about 8 inches high to roll the front tires to get that up in the air to get under the engine. IT works great.

mickey

77 palm beach

anaheim ca.


On Feb 18, 2013, at 5:29 AM, Bruce Hislop wrote:

>
>
> I'm no expert here, but my farmboy mechanics and observation of the physics of raising the GMC has lead me to this procedure.
>
> The manual shows only 3 places to safely lift the GMC. The center of the front frame member at the front of the engine, and the two bogie mount castings at the rear.
>
> If you have only one jack (I use a floor jack in this case), then you must raise the rear first one side at a time, then raise the front. My reasoning for this is unless you have 2 substantial jacks, you can only lift one side of the rear at a time. If you lifted the front first and set it on jack stands, then raising one side of the rear is going to twist the frame (and the attached body) because the front being set on stands cannot flex.
>
> Raise one side of the rear, then the other. The front suspension will allow this with minimal frame flexing. Then the whole front can be raised from the center point.
>
> Be careful to raise the front on the cross frame member and not the bottom of the radiator frame ( I caught a Mechanic about to jack from there on my coach!!).
>
> Just my ex-Farmboy obervations.
>
> --
> Bruce Hislop
> ON Canada
> 77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.
> Hubler 1 ton front end
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
> My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist

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Re: [GMCnet] Placing Floor Jack and Jack Stand Placement [message #198881 is a reply to message #198876] Mon, 18 February 2013 12:52 Go to previous messageGo to next message
tphipps is currently offline  tphipps   United States
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Jmk has the piece of steel. The air bags have enough pressure to snap wood wedges that would be thin enough to slide into the boggie. A simple Harbor Freight small flat steel pry bar will also do the trick.
The object is to insert the steel bar before you jack the coach.
Tom, MS II

Harbor Freight Pry Bar #2529, $2.99


2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552 KA4CSG
Re: [GMCnet] Placing Floor Jack and Jack Stand Placement [message #198885 is a reply to message #198881] Mon, 18 February 2013 13:23 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Henderson is currently offline  Ken Henderson   United States
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And AFTER you let the pressure out of the bags. I've got some 3/8" x
2-1/2" x 12" steel bars, almost crescent shaped, to prove that you MUST let
the air out of the bag before they load the bar.

Ken H.

On Mon, Feb 18, 2013 at 1:52 PM, Thomas Phipps wrote:

>
> ...
> The object is to insert the steel bar before you jack the coach.
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
Re: [GMCnet] Placing Floor Jack and Jack Stand Placement [message #198898 is a reply to message #198881] Mon, 18 February 2013 15:05 Go to previous messageGo to next message
mickeysss is currently offline  mickeysss   United States
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do you still have to take the air out of the bags, and if you do why? thanks in advance.


thank you great info.

mickey

77 palm beach

anaheim ca.



On Feb 18, 2013, at 10:52 AM, Thomas Phipps wrote:

>
>
> Jmk has the piece of steel. The air bags have enough pressure to snap wood wedges that would be thin enough to slide into the boggie. A simple Harbor Freight small flat steel pry bar will also do the trick.
> The object is to insert the steel bar before you jack the coach.
> Tom, MS II
>
> Harbor Freight Pry Bar #2529, $2.99
> --
> 1975 GMC Avion, under forever re-construction
> Vicksburg, MS. 3.7 miles from I-20
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Re: [GMCnet] Placing Floor Jack and Jack Stand Placement [message #198905 is a reply to message #198898] Mon, 18 February 2013 15:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
tphipps is currently offline  tphipps   United States
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Basically, lots of force in those air bags. How do you think some people, on early coaches have snapped the lower shock mount?
To add to my jacking method, I don't keep the front on a single pivot point longer than necessary. I support both outer ends. Should stop the twist, even without Chubby Checker. Smile
Tom, MS II


2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552 KA4CSG
Re: Placing Floor Jack and Jack Stand Placement [message #198906 is a reply to message #198820] Mon, 18 February 2013 15:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
rcjordan   United States
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Location: Elizabeth City, North Car...
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Senior Member
And what size floor jack do you like working with? I'm going to pick up a larger one than I have now at Autozone. I saw the HF model on sale, but I want to buy local because I've had a fair amount of trouble with floor jacks leaking.

SOLD 77 Royale Coachmen Side Dry Bath
76 Birchaven Coachmen Side Wet Bath
76 Eleganza
Elizabeth City, NC
Re: [GMCnet] Placing Floor Jack and Jack Stand Placement [message #198907 is a reply to message #198906] Mon, 18 February 2013 15:47 Go to previous messageGo to next message
James Hupy is currently offline  James Hupy   United States
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4ton will do it, but 6 gives more safety reserve. I have two Craftsman
Jacks. One USA. made, other offshore made. USA one is old and good. Other,
not so much, but still better than Harbour Fright. Imho.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 Gmc Royale 403
On Feb 18, 2013 1:38 PM, "RC Jordan" <rc@rcjordan.com> wrote:

>
>
> And what size floor jack do you like working with? I'm going to pick up a
> larger one than I have now at Autozone. I saw the HF model on sale, but I
> want to buy local because I've had a fair amount of trouble with floor
> jacks leaking.
> --
> 77 Royale Coachmen Side Dry Bath
> 76 Birchaven Coachmen Side Wet Bath
> How's the GMC market? Check out GMC Motorhomes For Sale
> _______________________________________________
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Re: [GMCnet] Placing Floor Jack and Jack Stand Placement [message #198934 is a reply to message #198885] Mon, 18 February 2013 18:05 Go to previous messageGo to next message
USAussie is currently offline  USAussie   United States
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Ken,

"Good point" says the man that bent one of them! ;-)

Regards,
Rob M.

-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Henderson

And AFTER you let the pressure out of the bags. I've got some 3/8" x
2-1/2" x 12" steel bars, almost crescent shaped, to prove that you MUST let
the air out of the bag before they load the bar.

Ken H.

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Regards, Rob M. (USAussie) The Pedantic Mechanic Sydney, Australia '75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428 '75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Re: [GMCnet] Placing Floor Jack and Jack Stand Placement [message #198935 is a reply to message #198876] Mon, 18 February 2013 18:14 Go to previous messageGo to next message
X   United States
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Re: [GMCnet] Placing Floor Jack and Jack Stand Placement [message #198938 is a reply to message #198907] Mon, 18 February 2013 18:25 Go to previous messageGo to next message
USAussie is currently offline  USAussie   United States
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Jim,

I'm confused, the front end of a GMC weighs in at 4500 lbs and each side weighs 4000 lbs why do need a 4 ton?

Wouldn't a 2.5 ton be enough?

I have a 3 ton in the USA that I've been using for several years now with no problem.

Here in Sydney I have a 20 ton air over hydraulic jack like this one:

http://www.harborfreight.com/22-ton-air-hydraulic-bottle-jack-66242.html

and an adapter that goes under the frame crossmember in front of the radiator like this one:

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/projects/p25995-lifting-bar.html

To jack up the rear end I put it under the trailer hitch.

Regards,
Rob M.
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion-The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion-Double Trouble TZE365V100426


-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of James Hupy
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 8:48 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Placing Floor Jack and Jack Stand Placement

4ton will do it, but 6 gives more safety reserve. I have two Craftsman
Jacks. One USA. made, other offshore made. USA one is old and good. Other,
not so much, but still better than Harbour Fright. Imho.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 Gmc Royale 403
On Feb 18, 2013 1:38 PM, "RC Jordan" <rc@rcjordan.com> wrote:

>
>
> And what size floor jack do you like working with? I'm going to pick up a
> larger one than I have now at Autozone. I saw the HF model on sale, but I
> want to buy local because I've had a fair amount of trouble with floor
> jacks leaking.
> --
> 77 Royale Coachmen Side Dry Bath
> 76 Birchaven Coachmen Side Wet Bath
> How's the GMC market? Check out GMC Motorhomes For Sale
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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>
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Regards, Rob M. (USAussie) The Pedantic Mechanic Sydney, Australia '75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428 '75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Re: [GMCnet] Placing Floor Jack and Jack Stand Placement [message #198945 is a reply to message #198938] Mon, 18 February 2013 18:54 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
mojoe is currently offline  mojoe   United States
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Rob... I am confused.. But then again doesn't take to much for me to be confused.. I thought there where only 2 places in the rear and 3 places in the front to jack up a GMC.
This a new secret way to jack it up?

Please O Wise One explain.! lol

J


Joe Kemenczky.. 1975 Eleganza ll " Odie " 75,000 miles.. "When I was younger, I could remember anything, whether it had happened or not." - Mark Twain. .
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