Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Winter storage and fuel
| [GMCnet] Winter storage and fuel [message #192236] |
Tue, 04 December 2012 18:28  |
fbhtxak
Messages: 191
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
JR, Tom,
I and most motorhome owners I know in south central Alaska store their
motorhomes beginning early September and revive them late May/early June the
following year. The storage prep there is very simple:
1. Winterize coach (done without RV anti-freeze)
2. Fill fuel tanks, adding 12 oz Heet(or equal)/20 gal. fuel during fill
3. Insure that all batteries are in good condition (load-test if not sure),
at proper electrolyte level and fully charged. Lead acid batteries, properly
preserved, don't freeze until about -75 to- 90F. In south central, the
typical coldest winter temp is a relatively warm -35 to -40F.
4. Onan (or other) genset: start engine, disconnect 12V supply to fuel pump
and run until engine dies from fuel starvation. DO NOTHING TO ENGINE
(presupposes prior oil change)
5. Park coach in storage location. DO NOTHING TO ENGINE (presupposes prior
oil change)
6. Disconnect batteries (there is no power available at most storage
facilities for battery maintainers). Capacity of batteries drops as
temperature falls but recovers as temperature increases. A typical voltage
change from time of storage to recommission is -0.25VDC for about the same
ambient temperatures.
7. If stored outside (and most are as they are snow covered from mid-Oct to
late April), cover engine, genset and battery compartment(s) with plastic
sheeting. Reduces dirt/volcanic ash accumulation during blizzard/chinook
winds. For air suspension systems, place blocks at jack points to maintain
proper ground clearance and deflate system.
8. DO NOT START engine or genset until following year start-up.
9. At start-up: remove plastic sheeting, reconnect batteries, motor genset
engine and coach engine with respective starter motors about ten seconds
each to establish oil circulation. For carbureted engines, spray starting
fluid into venturi/quickly replace air cleaner and "light-off". Starting
fluid not needed for fuel injected engines. Most owners start the genset
first in case engine battery needs a boost. The engines normally start in
less than ten seconds at 55 to 65F. Recommission house system and check for
leaks.
'Have used this procedure for more than thirty years over three motorhomes,
including the GMCMh (all still owned or in family). All are still on the OEM
engines with only normal wear for the accumulated mileage. Shortly after
arriving Alaska, an "old sourdough" neighbor, after observing my "L48" picky
pickling methods on a new Coachmen, said "Let me show you how we do it here
on my coach". He finished and said "and that's how it's done, son". At the
time, he was the original owner of a ten year old SOB with a Ford "460". It
sounded and performed as new. I used the above procedure every year
afterwards - 'still do...
Fred Hudspeth
Fred B. Hudspeth
1978 Royale - Tyler, TX
1982 Airstream Excella 28' Mh - Cooper Landing, Alaska
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2012 10:12:41 -0500
From: "Gerald Wheeler" <jrwheeler7@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Winter storage and fuel
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Message-ID: <410-220121224151241214@earthlink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
You can also fog the carb with Seafoam spray
Dick Paterson recommends using a fogging oil when shutting your engine down
for several months (or longer). He said to run the hot engine around 1500
rpm and spray for 20 seconds into the carb. I use a fogging oil sold by
NAPA; probably similar to the Seafoam spray.
JR Wheeler NC/OR
> [Original Message]
> From: Thomas Phipps <tph1pp5@yahoo.com>
> To: <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
> Date: 12/4/2012 9:30:52 AM
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Winter storage and fuel
>
>
>
> Both Seafoam and Sta-Bil recommend a double dose for long term storage.
You can also fog the carb with Seafoam spray, and allow it to be pulled
into the engine while the engine is running. The engine will choke out and
quit running, but some of the product will be in the cylinders as a
protective coating.
> In Virginia, which has some very cold winter days, I filled my tanks and
added double seafoam. Always started and ran in the Spring without much
further action.
> IMHO, Both Seafoam and Sta-Bil accomplish the same thing for me.
>
> Tom, MS II
> --
> 1975 GMC Avion, under forever re-construction
> Vicksburg, MS. 3.7 miles from I-20
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Winter storage and fuel [message #192271 is a reply to message #192236] |
Wed, 05 December 2012 08:30  |
 |
Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
|
Senior Member |
|
|
| fbhtxak wrote on Tue, 04 December 2012 19:28 |
JR, Tom,
I and most motorhome owners I know in south central Alaska store their motorhomes beginning early September and revive them late May/early June the following year. The storage prep there is very simple:
1. Winterize coach (done without RV anti-freeze)
2. Fill fuel tanks, adding 12 oz Heet(or equal)/20 gal. fuel during fill
3. Insure that all batteries are in good condition (load-test if not sure), at proper electrolyte level and fully charged. Lead acid batteries, properly preserved, don't freeze until about -75 to- 90F. In south central, the typical coldest winter temp is a relatively warm -35 to -40F.
4. Onan (or other) genset: start engine, disconnect 12V supply to fuel pump and run until engine dies from fuel starvation. DO NOTHING TO ENGINE (presupposes prior oil change)
5. Park coach in storage location. DO NOTHING TO ENGINE (presupposes prior oil change)
6. Disconnect batteries (there is no power available at most storage facilities for battery maintainers). Capacity of batteries drops as temperature falls but recovers as temperature increases. A typical voltage change from time of storage to recommission is -0.25VDC for about the same ambient temperatures.
7. If stored outside (and most are as they are snow covered from mid-Oct to late April), cover engine, genset and battery compartment(s) with plastic sheeting. Reduces dirt/volcanic ash accumulation during blizzard/chinook winds. For air suspension systems, place blocks at jack points to maintain proper ground clearance and deflate system.
8. DO NOT START engine or genset until following year start-up.
9. At start-up: remove plastic sheeting, reconnect batteries, motor genset engine and coach engine with respective starter motors about ten seconds each to establish oil circulation. For carbureted engines, spray starting fluid into venturi/quickly replace air cleaner and "light-off". Starting fluid not needed for fuel injected engines. Most owners start the genset first in case engine battery needs a boost. The engines normally start in
less than ten seconds at 55 to 65F. Recommission house system and check for leaks.
'Have used this procedure for more than thirty years over three motorhomes, including the GMCMh (all still owned or in family). All are still on the OEM engines with only normal wear for the accumulated mileage. Shortly after arriving Alaska, an "old sourdough" neighbor, after observing my "L48" picky
pickling methods on a new Coachmen, said "Let me show you how we do it here on my coach". He finished and said "and that's how it's done, son". At the time, he was the original owner of a ten year old SOB with a Ford "460". It sounded and performed as new. I used the above procedure every year afterwards - 'still do...
Fred B. Hudspeth
1978 Royale - Tyler, TX
1982 Airstream Excella 28' Mh - Cooper Landing, Alaska
|
This is exactly (as closely as can be accommodated) what I do to a large number of boat engines every year.
The Differences:
While running anti-freeze through the open cooling system and the engine is finally warm enough to open the T-stat, shut of the fuel and start fogging. The engine will run 30~60 seconds with the fuel stopped and when you hear it stumble, begin fogging (either with spray or just pouring oil into the intake) until it quits. That engine is ready for at three to five years of unattended storage. My personal record is nine.
At the spring start up, crank the engine (with the ignition and/or fuel disabled) until it shows some oil pressure. When it does, set it back to run and light it. It is good to have a battery charger ready, but if the batteries were good, you won't need it. No starting fluid should be required. The crank time was enough to pull fuel up (if you remembered to turn it on  ).
Boat engine spaces are pretty well closed and we don't much dust and even less volcanic ash, but power boats do have big open exhaust pipes that need to be plugged so birds and other things don't move in.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Winter storage and fuel [message #192279 is a reply to message #192236] |
Wed, 05 December 2012 10:24 |
 |
mike miller
Messages: 3576
Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Good procedure Fred!
Just a few thoughts:
-- I suspect that fogging the engine is of more value in areas that have the environmental conditions to cause a lot of surface rust. Mostly where the temperature crosses the dew-point a couple of times a day. (I suspect this does NOT apply to "south central Alaska.")
-- If one had a carb and an electric fuel pump (without a mechanical one), you could also use the same procedure as the Onan on th main engine. This would allow you to store the main engine with dry carb bowl. Granted this would be to much "hassle for reward" with the OEM set-up of the mechanical pump.
-- I still like a bit of pink stuff in the water system, even if, after my method, most of it ends up in the holding tanks and macerator. (I use less than a gallon... unless I forget to close a drain before pumping it into the system!!!  )
| fbhtxak wrote on Tue, 04 December 2012 16:28 |
JR, Tom,
I and most motorhome owners I know in south central Alaska store their motorhomes beginning early September and revive them late May/early June the following year. The storage prep there is very simple:
1. Winterize coach (done without RV anti-freeze)
2. Fill fuel tanks, adding 12 oz Heet(or equal)/20 gal. fuel during fill
3. Insure that all batteries are in good condition (load-test if not sure), at proper electrolyte level and fully charged. Lead acid batteries, properly preserved, don't freeze until about -75 to- 90F. In south central, the typical coldest winter temp is a relatively warm -35 to -40F.
4. Onan (or other) genset: start engine, disconnect 12V supply to fuel pump and run until engine dies from fuel starvation. DO NOTHING TO ENGINE (presupposes prior oil change)
5. Park coach in storage location. DO NOTHING TO ENGINE (presupposes prior oil change)
6. Disconnect batteries (there is no power available at most storage facilities for battery maintainers). Capacity of batteries drops as temperature falls but recovers as temperature increases. A typical voltage change from time of storage to recommission is -0.25VDC for about the same ambient temperatures.
7. If stored outside (and most are as they are snow covered from mid-Oct to late April), cover engine, genset and battery compartment(s) with plastic sheeting. Reduces dirt/volcanic ash accumulation during blizzard/chinook winds. For air suspension systems, place blocks at jack points to maintain proper ground clearance and deflate system.
8. DO NOT START engine or genset until following year start-up.
9. At start-up: remove plastic sheeting, reconnect batteries, motor genset engine and coach engine with respective starter motors about ten seconds each to establish oil circulation. For carbureted engines, spray starting fluid into venturi/quickly replace air cleaner and "light-off". Starting fluid not needed for fuel injected engines. Most owners start the genset first in case engine battery needs a boost. The engines normally start in less than ten seconds at 55 to 65F. Recommission house system and check for leaks.
'Have used this procedure for more than thirty years over three motorhomes, including the GMCMh (all still owned or in family). All are still on the OEM engines with only normal wear for the accumulated mileage. Shortly after arriving Alaska, an "old sourdough" neighbor, after observing my "L48" picky pickling methods on a new Coachmen, said "Let me show you how we do it here on my coach". He finished and said "and that's how it's done, son". At the time, he was the original owner of a ten year old SOB with a Ford "460". It sounded and performed as new. I used the above procedure every year afterwards - 'still do...
Fred Hudspeth
Fred B. Hudspeth
1978 Royale - Tyler, TX
1982 Airstream Excella 28' Mh - Cooper Landing, Alaska
| Quote: |
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2012 10:12:41 -0500
From: "Gerald Wheeler"
You can also fog the carb with Seafoam spray
Dick Paterson recommends using a fogging oil when shutting your engine down for several months (or longer). He said to run the hot engine around 1500 rpm and spray for 20 seconds into the carb. I use a fogging oil sold by NAPA; probably similar to the Seafoam spray.
|
|
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo'
http://m000035.blogspot.com
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Winter storage and fuel [message #192294 is a reply to message #192279] |
Wed, 05 December 2012 11:59 |
|
Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
|
Senior Member |
|
|
| Mike Miller wrote on Wed, 05 December 2012 11:24 |
Good procedure Fred!
Just a few thoughts:
-- I suspect that fogging the engine is of more value in areas that have the environmental conditions to cause a lot of surface rust. Mostly where the temperature crosses the dew-point a couple of times a day. (I suspect this does NOT apply to "south central Alaska.")
-- If one had a carb and an electric fuel pump (without a mechanical one), you could also use the same procedure as the Onan on th main engine. This would allow you to store the main engine with dry carb bowl. Granted this would be to much "hassle for reward" with the OEM set-up of the mechanical pump.
-- I still like a bit of pink stuff in the water system, even if, after my method, most of it ends up in the holding tanks and macerator. (I use less than a gallon... unless I forget to close a drain before pumping it into the system!!! )
fbhtxak procedure written on Tue, 04 December 2012 16:28 snipped
|
Mike,
As to the climate in Alaska, you seem to have forgotten that they have spring and fall. Both are times when there are temperatures around the dew point a lot. An fog so thick that shipping it expensive.
If you have an electric fuel pump, shutting it off is simple (provided you can get to the connections). If you have a mechanical pump and the OE steel fuel line, you still have a means to stop the fuel flow. There is rubber line behind the left front wheel. If you don't want to pull the wheel well liner, you can go back by the selector valve and pinch the line off there. I usually use a pair of long nosed vise-grips to pinch the line.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Winter storage and fuel [message #192307 is a reply to message #192236] |
Wed, 05 December 2012 13:43 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I'll count my blessings, but I've never done any special fuel treatment for the 6 month down times and never had a problem. Though I've stored indoors or semi indoors, seldom below freezing. However, I did let gas sit in a collector car for several years (big time duration difference) and it was total varnish and ruined the in-tank pump. I think the degrade curve on fuel is somewhat log in nature, and it sits there and then when it goes bad it goes bad in a hurry. Just like milk, leftovers, antifreeze, brake fluid etc. JMHO.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Winter storage and fuel [message #192338 is a reply to message #192294] |
Wed, 05 December 2012 18:39 |
 |
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Matt,
How about disconnecting the rubber line that connects the steel line fastened to the front crossmember to the inlet of the
mechanical fuel pump?
That's where Ken Frey installed a metal fuel filter to keep crap from getting into the carb inlet filter.
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Colie
Mike,
As to the climate in Alaska, you seem to have forgotten that they have spring and fall. Both are times when there are temperatures
around the dew point a lot. An fog so thick that shipping it expensive.
If you have an electric fuel pump, shutting it off is simple (provided you can get to the connections). If you have a mechanical
pump and the OE steel fuel line, you still have a means to stop the fuel flow. There is rubber line behind the left front wheel.
If you don't want to pull the wheel well liner, you can go back by the selector valve and pinch the line off there. I usually use a
pair of long nosed vise-grips to pinch the line.
Matt
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Winter storage and fuel [message #192359 is a reply to message #192338] |
Thu, 06 December 2012 06:22 |
|
Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
|
Senior Member |
|
|
| Robert Mueller wrote on Wed, 05 December 2012 19:39 |
Matt,
How about disconnecting the rubber line that connects the steel line fastened to the front crossmember to the inlet of the
mechanical fuel pump?
That's where Ken Frey installed a metal fuel filter to keep crap from getting into the carb inlet filter.
Regards,
Rob M.
|
Well Rob,
I could just be honest and tell you that I forgot about that one. I haven't even replaced that piece of rubber, yet.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
|
|
|
|
Goto Forum:
Current Time: Fri Nov 15 18:35:53 CST 2024
Total time taken to generate the page: 0.09049 seconds
|
GMCforum
Search
Help
Register
Login
Home
