| Plumbing help needed from the wizards [message #192142] |
Mon, 03 December 2012 19:58  |
kerry pinkerton
Messages: 2565
Registered: July 2012
Location: Harvest, Al
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Well crap! Most of you know we've been working on our 77 Eleganza trying to get it ready for a week on the beach before Christmas. We still haven't spent the night in the coach because of some family medical issues but those cleared up and we were hoping to camp in the driveway tonight. Yesterday I replaced all three of the squealing belts and the coach was running and driving great. It's been below freezing at night recently but the weather is going to be above freezing so this was a good day to fill the tank, hook to shore water, and test all the plumbing.
Filling the storage tank was first. Within about 10 seconds, I saw water running out from under the coach. lots of water...Crap.
Out came the new bed and platform only to find the fresh water line to the storage tank had a big split. Of to town to get a new hose and finally found the correct 1 1/4" size at the third RV place. Got that fixed and started filling the tank. Put about half a tank in it and turned on the pump which ran fine. Only problem was that the water flow was really, REALLY, [B]REALLY[B]weak with a good bit of air in the water. In fact, you can see the air bubbles in the clear hoses to the pump. Also the hot water tank drain was frozen absolutely solid in the open position. So what water got into the tank was running out.
Hooked to shore water and got plenty of pressure at the kitchen and bathroom. Toliet flushes fine (new Theford), shower head works and shuts off, bathroom sink doesn't completely shut off when you turn on the shower but it's not a show stopper. NO WATER from the hot water knobs.
So I had 3 problems, fixed one, and have at LEAST two more.
For the email folks these photos are in this album or you can click on the link to individual photos below.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6243-plumbing-woes.html
Let's start with the water pump. Here are a few shots of the area in question.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6243/R_0013.jpg
There is some stuff going on here that don't make sense to me. I plumbed my entire house and have no idea why this is the way it is???
In this photo, the water comes in from the top left and immediately runs into a TEE. More on this tee later. From the TEE it runs through a filter on to a valve (#1) that has a drain. The valve (1) has "OPEN" marked on it and when in that position it drains. The other position is "BYPASS" which apparently closes the drain valve. The drain is out the bottom so you can't see it in the photo.
From the valve, the water goes through the suction side of the pump and out the pressure side to another TEE. (Lower left in the photo. The TEE feeds the QUEST water supply line and heads down the inside side of the water tank to the bathroom. On the top of the TEE is another little valve (#2) with a small red line that goes up the left side to another brass valve (#3) (center left). This valve is another drain.
I can grasp that, one drain on each side of the pump. What I don't understand is why the other side of that valve goes back up and ties into the first TEE (top left). That loop makes no sense to me at all. I can see air in the lines also. Seems to me that the third valve and the connection back in to the suction side is not desirable.
Here are a few more closeups of this area:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6243/R_0025.jpg
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6243/R_0033.jpg
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6243/R_0044.jpg
So that is problem 1. I'd like your thoughts on this. My opinion is to eliminate the loop and just have a couple drains. Also the suction line runs uphill so it's going to be difficult to drain the tank and that may be why the TEE is there but I don't think it should be connected to the pressure side.
Ok problem #2 is the hot water issue (s). The drain valve is frozen solid and the PO told me it needed to be replaced. I THINK I can lift the hot water tank and get to it from inside the bathroom. I've removed the cabinet and doors.
I also removed the rear bathroom wall thinking it would be easier to get to it. Not sure which way will be best but either way it's got to be changed. Here is a shot from the back:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6243/R_0062.jpg
If I can't get to it from inside the bathroom, as a last resort I THINK I can get to it by cutting the sink drain out.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6243/R_0092.jpg
Problem #3 is related to why I didn't get ANY hot water from any faucet. Take a look at this photo:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6243/R_0071.jpg
On the cold water line, there is another of these open/bypass valves and the white flex line goes back up to the hot water line. I can't think of any reason that this is needed???????
A close up of the valve on the cold water input:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6243/R_0082.jpg
The valve is in the "open" position. I'm thinking that if I put it on bypass, it will basically ignore the feedback line but I just don't understand why anyone would do that?????
I hope yall can offer some clarity here. Please refer to problem 1, 2 or 3.
Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama
Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
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