Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] I give up. (Onan)
| Re: [GMCnet] I give up. (Onan) [message #190261 is a reply to message #190258] |
Wed, 14 November 2012 07:00   |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Robin,
Try cutting the tie wraps on the wire bundles and see which wire goes to the alternator if it is one of the two connected together
at the VR that's the one that Emery and connected to the control board. I'm sorry but I don't remember if it was terminal 8 or
another one.
It's midnight, I'm going to bed, I'll bet by the time I get up KenB will have figger'd that out!
Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie - Downunder
-----Original Message-----
From:
Robin Hood
Funny that you mention that, Rob. Wire #8 was disconnected from terminal 8,
with a wire coming from the vicinity of the starter hooked on to terminal 8
in its place. I figured I should return the generator to the stock
settings as much as possible. I haven't tried undoing wire 8 from terminal
8 and replacing it with the mystery wire.
Robin
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] I give up. (Onan) [message #190262 is a reply to message #190258] |
Wed, 14 November 2012 07:31 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Robin,
Rather than blindly connecting things, use your meter. Apparently you're
confident that the wire on pin 5 is correct. Using the lowest Ohms range,
check between pin 6 and each of the wires you THINK should go to pin 8.
The correct one should show continuity. You probably won't be able to get
an accurate reading because the alternator's stator resistance is only
around 0.5 Ohms. Unless there's continuity in the circuit from 5 to 8, the
28 vac required for hold-in cannot be developed.
Ken H.
On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 7:43 AM, Robin Hood <loxley@gmail.com> wrote:
> Funny that you mention that, Rob. Wire #8 was disconnected from terminal 8,
> with a wire coming from the vicinity of the starter hooked on to terminal 8
> in its place. I figured I should return the generator to the stock
> settings as much as possible. I haven't tried undoing wire 8 from terminal
> 8 and replacing it with the mystery wire.
>
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] I give up. (Onan) [message #190263 is a reply to message #187867] |
Wed, 14 November 2012 07:33 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
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OOOoopS! Correction: "...check between pin 5 (FIVE) and ..."
KH
On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 8:31 AM, Ken Henderson wrote:
> Robin,
>
> Rather than blindly connecting things, use your meter. Apparently you're
> confident that the wire on pin 5 is correct. Using the lowest Ohms range,
> check between pin 6 and each of the wires you THINK should go to pin 8.
>
...,
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Ken Henderson
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Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] I give up. (Onan) [message #190299 is a reply to message #190260] |
Wed, 14 November 2012 15:23 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
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| Ken Henderson wrote on Wed, 14 November 2012 06:47 |
Of course Ken B's got it all just right -- but a little complex for a
lawyer. 
Trying to keep it simple: Every Onan I've seen has had 3 terminals on the
regulator, but wires connected to only two of them. One of the connections
has only one wire. The other connection is two wires on a "stacking"
FastOn. Each of those wires should be disconnected and taped up -- just as
connected. That is, the dual stays connected when taped up and the single
is taped up alone.
The other connections depend on hidden splices, or on that double
connection, so are not affected by this little mod.
Ken H.
|
I agree with Ken H.
Ken B.
Also on Rob's comment. If you are eliminating the VR, yes you could just run a wire from the alternator and connect it to pin 8. I'm not sure you want to do this at this time. I believe he intends to use this as a stand alone generator. If so, in the future he may want to activate the VR again so he can charge the starting battery.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] I give up. (Onan) [message #190302 is a reply to message #190299] |
Wed, 14 November 2012 15:35 |
Robin Hood
Messages: 1078
Registered: April 2011
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Oh, no, it's definitely destined for my Royale. :) That's the first
step in getting to work on the renovation of the Royale: there MUST be
air conditioning here in the humid, soupy South.
I think I need another one for the Palm Beach, and at this rate if I'm
going to be come an Onan Guru I may as well pick up a third or fourth
to turn into mobile power carts. Well, for certain values of "mobile".
:)
On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 3:23 PM, Ken Burton <n9cv@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Also on Rob's comment. If you are eliminating the VR, yes you could just run a wire from the alternator and connect it to pin 8. I'm not sure you want to do this at this time. I believe he intends to use this as a stand alone generator. If so, in the future he may want to activate the VR again so he can charge the starting battery.
>
--
Robin Hood
Jackson, MS
2003 Buick Lesabre
1968 Pontiac Catalina
1978 GMC Royale motorhome
1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome
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| Re: [GMCnet] I give up. (Onan) [message #190307 is a reply to message #190302] |
Wed, 14 November 2012 15:57 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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The permanent magnet alternator located under the flywheel in the onan has
a wye wound stator. All the ends are joined at one end and the other ends
wind around lamented soft iron pole pieces, finally ending up at the
rectifier/regulator. One winding picks up the sine wave on ascent, the
other one on the decending sine wave. The output ia alternating current.
The rectifier only allows the output current to travel in one direction and
combines both windings creating direct current to charge the battery as
well as closing a relay in the control board of the onan. Many owners
render this alternator inoperative by unplugging the harness. If you charge
your starting battery from the front of the coach, then there is little
need for the flywheel alternator. Hope this clarifies rather than confuses.
Jim Hupy
Salem,Or
78 Gmc Royale 403
On Nov 14, 2012 1:36 PM, "Robin Hood" <loxley@gmail.com> wrote:
> Oh, no, it's definitely destined for my Royale. :) That's the first
> step in getting to work on the renovation of the Royale: there MUST be
> air conditioning here in the humid, soupy South.
>
> I think I need another one for the Palm Beach, and at this rate if I'm
> going to be come an Onan Guru I may as well pick up a third or fourth
> to turn into mobile power carts. Well, for certain values of "mobile".
> :)
>
> On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 3:23 PM, Ken Burton <n9cv@comcast.net> wrote:
> >
> > Also on Rob's comment. If you are eliminating the VR, yes you could
> just run a wire from the alternator and connect it to pin 8. I'm not sure
> you want to do this at this time. I believe he intends to use this as a
> stand alone generator. If so, in the future he may want to activate the VR
> again so he can charge the starting battery.
> >
>
> --
> Robin Hood
> Jackson, MS
> 2003 Buick Lesabre
> 1968 Pontiac Catalina
> 1978 GMC Royale motorhome
> 1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome
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| Re: [GMCnet] I give up. (Onan) [message #190317 is a reply to message #190299] |
Wed, 14 November 2012 16:54 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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| Ken Burton wrote on Wed, 14 November 2012 16:23 |
I agree with Ken H.
Ken B.
Also on Rob's comment. If you are eliminating the VR, yes you could just run a wire from the alternator and connect it to pin 8. I'm not sure you want to do this at this time. I believe he intends to use this as a stand alone generator. If so, in the future he may want to activate the VR again so he can charge the starting battery.
|
Hey guys,
There is a little problem Here!!!
What everybody seems to have forgotten is that an NH or BF Onan Power Drawer needs about 2-1/2 amps JUST TO RUN... That is what the ignition, fuel pump and solenoid together draw. Many of you may have slipped this tidbit because most so many of you run the APU off the house bank and that is kept up by the converter.
He wants that little POS Prestolite regulator attached. If it is dead, it can be replaced. If you are going to run one of these on its own, you need that box. A replacement can be had (non-Onan) for about 30$.
They do go bad. That is the same part that Kohler used used for years. The come in two kind - Terminals in line and terminals grouped 2and1 (what mine are) that is what the difference is between the 10 and 15 amp units. It doesn't matter which we use.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: [GMCnet] I give up. (Onan) [message #190324 is a reply to message #190307] |
Wed, 14 November 2012 17:47 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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| James Hupy wrote on Wed, 14 November 2012 16:57 |
The permanent magnet alternator located under the flywheel in the onan has a wye wound stator. All the ends are joined at one end and the other ends wind around lamented soft iron pole pieces, finally ending up at the rectifier/regulator. One winding picks up the sine wave on ascent, the other one on the decending sine wave. The output ia alternating current.
The rectifier only allows the output current to travel in one direction and combines both windings creating direct current to charge the battery as well as closing a relay in the control board of the onan. Many owners render this alternator inoperative by unplugging the harness. If you charge your starting battery from the front of the coach, then there is little need for the flywheel alternator. Hope this clarifies rather than confuses.
Jim Hupy
|
Jim,
I really hate to throw any more smoke in here, and you are right that you don't need the rectifier/regulator if you are running from the coach's house battery. But if you are not, it is a real good idea to have it to make up the Onan's own DC load for the ignition and fuel pump.
You are mistaken if you think that the BF & NH use two alternator outputs. I have never seen one with both connected.
My older BF does have a second lead coming out from under the fly wheel (it was cut off and painted that way), but I have never seen another BF or NH that was that way. I think they use the same part for little tractors too, but they think that the power draw won't ever need headlights.
But, there is a little semantic problem. The alternator windings of little Onans and Kohlers are not Wye... They are 2 single ended windings that are 180° out of phase.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: [GMCnet] I give up. (Onan) [message #190343 is a reply to message #190330] |
Wed, 14 November 2012 20:06 |
Robin Hood
Messages: 1078
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 6:43 PM, Ken Burton <n9cv@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> Robin Hood wrote on Wed, 14 November 2012 15:35
>> Oh, no, it's definitely destined for my Royale. :) That's the first
>> step in getting to work on the renovation of the Royale: there MUST be
>> air conditioning here in the humid, soupy South.
>
> Ok Robin,
>
> Here is my thought on that VR. Unplug it for now and tape up the wires. Make sure the the two that came off on the same terminal are still connected together before taping them up.
See, here is where I keep running into trouble. What are y'all talking
about with all this "same terminal" business? I see THREE terminals
with THREE wires. Until I get this sorted out, I can't exactly start
tying wires together willynilly, or something might get fried.
See the first bit of my latest video: http://youtu.be/2cSLSaUFidM
Summary: I show my voltage rectifier (I keep calling it a voltage
regulator) and explain why I"m so confused. I put the wire from the
alternator back on pin 8, which is how the generator came to me.
Generator still would not start unless jumpered but once started, it
would continue to run even if the jumper was removed, and had to be
stopped with the STOP button.
Hypothesis: Once running, the alternator gives enough juice that the
run circuit engages and stays that way. I suppose it's possible my VR
is defective and dragging down the AC too much to allow a start, but
not a problem once it's running. Also, I'm not confident in my meter
skills, so testing the wiring for the Low Oil Pressure sensor was a
problem. I did notice that if I disconnected Wire 12 from Pin 12 and
pushed the Start button that it would turn over maybe three
revolutions and quit: with that connection in place, holding down on
the Start button causes the starter to keep turning for as long as I
hold down the button. Which leads me to hypothesis number two: my Low
Oil Pressure circuit works.
The Control Board only has so many inputs. Alternator power is one,
and I beleive it's good or close to it. Oil pressure is another. All
other things equal, my gut is telling me that the VR may be keeping it
from cranking the way it's supposed to.
I need to learn how to use my meter better. I don't get voltages or
resistance values that I think I should be getting. Where the heck is
a good ground? The exhaust manifold? Negative battery terminal?
Tonight's wrenching session was cut very short: wife isn't feeling
well, and I'm being dutiful husband instead of messing about in the
garage.
>
> Later after you get it running you can remove the tape from the leads and reinstall them to reactivate the the battery charging and power supply function.
>
> Why would you want the VR / charger it to work?
I don't. This Onan is destined for the Royale. I *would* like to learn
as much as I can, though, since I'm going to have to keep at least two
of these things running.
--
Robin Hood
Jackson, MS
2003 Buick Lesabre
1968 Pontiac Catalina
1978 GMC Royale motorhome
1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome
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| Re: [GMCnet] I give up. (Onan) [message #190369 is a reply to message #190343] |
Thu, 15 November 2012 04:31 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| Robin Hood wrote on Wed, 14 November 2012 20:06 |
On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 6:43 PM, Ken Burton <n9cv@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> Robin Hood wrote on Wed, 14 November 2012 15:35
>> Oh, no, it's definitely destined for my Royale. That's the first
>> step in getting to work on the renovation of the Royale: there MUST be
>> air conditioning here in the humid, soupy South.
>
> Ok Robin,
>
> Here is my thought on that VR. Unplug it for now and tape up the wires. Make sure the the two that came off on the same terminal are still connected together before taping them up.
See, here is where I keep running into trouble. What are y'all talking
about with all this "same terminal" business? I see THREE terminals
with THREE wires. Until I get this sorted out, I can't exactly start
tying wires together willynilly, or something might get fried.
See the first bit of my latest video: http://youtu.be/2cSLSaUFidM
Summary: I show my voltage rectifier (I keep calling it a voltage
regulator) and explain why I"m so confused. I put the wire from the
alternator back on pin 8, which is how the generator came to me.
Generator still would not start unless jumpered but once started, it
would continue to run even if the jumper was removed, and had to be
stopped with the STOP button.
Hypothesis: Once running, the alternator gives enough juice that the
run circuit engages and stays that way. I suppose it's possible my VR
is defective and dragging down the AC too much to allow a start, but
not a problem once it's running. Also, I'm not confident in my meter
skills, so testing the wiring for the Low Oil Pressure sensor was a
problem. I did notice that if I disconnected Wire 12 from Pin 12 and
pushed the Start button that it would turn over maybe three
revolutions and quit: with that connection in place, holding down on
the Start button causes the starter to keep turning for as long as I
hold down the button. Which leads me to hypothesis number two: my Low
Oil Pressure circuit works.
The Control Board only has so many inputs. Alternator power is one,
and I beleive it's good or close to it. Oil pressure is another. All
other things equal, my gut is telling me that the VR may be keeping it
from cranking the way it's supposed to.
I need to learn how to use my meter better. I don't get voltages or
resistance values that I think I should be getting. Where the heck is
a good ground? The exhaust manifold? Negative battery terminal?
Tonight's wrenching session was cut very short: wife isn't feeling
well, and I'm being dutiful husband instead of messing about in the
garage.
>
> Later after you get it running you can remove the tape from the leads and reinstall them to reactivate the the battery charging and power supply function.
>
> Why would you want the VR / charger it to work?
I don't. This Onan is destined for the Royale. I *would* like to learn as much as I can, though, since I'm going to have to keep at least two of these things running.
Robin Hood
|
Let's see if I can address some of the issues. First it looks like your alternator is running. It also sounds like relay K2 is slow to pick up. This is the relay that keeps the Onan running once you let go of the start button. I have seen this slow relay happen many times on these boards and it is usually due to low DC voltage across relay K2's coil. Several things can cause this but the first thing we want to verify is that you have the correct AC voltage coming out of the alternator.
So start the generator with the jumper installed, then remove the jumper and with the Onan still running I would like to know what the AC voltage is across Pin 8 and Pin 5 (or Pin 8 and Pin 11). It should be somewhere in the neighborhood of 28 volts AC.
If we have that AC voltage correct then we can call the alternator good and start looking at the board.
Next is to identify which leads go where.
This should not be too difficult.
With the Onan not running and the battery disconnected, pull the wire off of Pin 8 and attach one of the ohmmeter leads to it. Then probe all three leads on the VR looking for continuity. If you find only one, then that is the wire going to pin 8. If you find more than one then disconnect the wires at the VR and probe them again looking for the only one with continuity. That takes care of one of the three.
Now connect the ohm meter to the fuse and probe the remaining 2 wires the one with continuity is the one that should plug on the B+ terminal.
The leaves the last one. Find the wire coming out of the alternator. I read it is yellow somewhere but I haven't been able to verify that. Connect your ohmmeter to it and you should see continuity between the yellow wire end and the remaining terminal at the VR.
Now that you have identified all 3 wires, the wire to the alternator and the wire to board pin 8 should be hooked together and taped or they can hooked together and plugged on to the VR pin L2. That's it.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Do Not Give up on the Onan! (was: I give up...) [message #190372 is a reply to message #190343] |
Thu, 15 November 2012 06:06 |
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mike miller
Messages: 3576
Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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| Robin Hood wrote on Wed, 14 November 2012 18:06 |
Summary: I show my voltage rectifier (I keep calling it a voltage
regulator) and explain why I"m so confused. I put the wire from the alternator back on pin 8, which is how the generator came to me. Generator still would not start unless jumpered but once started, it would continue to run even if the jumper was removed, and had to be stopped with the STOP button.
Hypothesis: Once running, ...
|
First, I am fairly certain the voltage regulator needs to be grounded. I think it gets the ground through the mounting screws. Anyone know for sure?
But I do not think this is why you need the jumper to start the Onan.
As I have said before, the Onan gets power to the ignition/fuel pump more the one way. It looks like you have "fixed" the way it gets power while running. But during starting it gets 12v for the ignition/pump from K1 (the solenoid that looks like a Ford starter solenoid) through pin 10.
I am thinking this is the wire you have hanging after disconnecting it from pin 8. It is fairly sure that this generator was "messed with" by someone who did not know what they were doing... most likely some of it happened before it belonged to you!
I really think you need to double check ALL of your connections.
Yes, I also think need to learn how to use your meter better. Ohm'ing out the wiring to ensure everything is connected correctly is an good exercise.
A good ground would be found at the negative battery terminal. It also should be pretty much any part of the engine that is not electrical and is not painted or rusted. I would use where the heavy cable from the battery (negative) connects to the Onan. Should be around the starter.
You are doing great... Not not give up!
OBTW: You'll need to find a muffler soon.
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo'
http://m000035.blogspot.com
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| Re: [GMCnet] I give up. (Onan) [message #190423 is a reply to message #190369] |
Thu, 15 November 2012 19:19 |
Robin Hood
Messages: 1078
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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Is there a failure mode that includes backfires and the 5 amp fuse blowing?
On Thursday, November 15, 2012, Ken Burton wrote:
>
>
> Robin Hood wrote on Wed, 14 November 2012 20:06
> > On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 6:43 PM, Ken Burton <n9cv@comcast.net<javascript:;>>
> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Robin Hood wrote on Wed, 14 November 2012 15:35
> > >> Oh, no, it's definitely destined for my Royale. :) That's the first
> > >> step in getting to work on the renovation of the Royale: there MUST be
> > >> air conditioning here in the humid, soupy South.
> > >
> > > Ok Robin,
> > >
> > > Here is my thought on that VR. Unplug it for now and tape up the
> wires. Make sure the the two that came off on the same terminal are still
> connected together before taping them up.
> >
> > See, here is where I keep running into trouble. What are y'all talking
> > about with all this "same terminal" business? I see THREE terminals
> > with THREE wires. Until I get this sorted out, I can't exactly start
> > tying wires together willynilly, or something might get fried.
> >
> > See the first bit of my latest video: http://youtu.be/2cSLSaUFidM
> >
> > Summary: I show my voltage rectifier (I keep calling it a voltage
> > regulator) and explain why I"m so confused. I put the wire from the
> > alternator back on pin 8, which is how the generator came to me.
> > Generator still would not start unless jumpered but once started, it
> > would continue to run even if the jumper was removed, and had to be
> > stopped with the STOP button.
> >
> > Hypothesis: Once running, the alternator gives enough juice that the
> > run circuit engages and stays that way. I suppose it's possible my VR
> > is defective and dragging down the AC too much to allow a start, but
> > not a problem once it's running. Also, I'm not confident in my meter
> > skills, so testing the wiring for the Low Oil Pressure sensor was a
> > problem. I did notice that if I disconnected Wire 12 from Pin 12 and
> > pushed the Start button that it would turn over maybe three
> > revolutions and quit: with that connection in place, holding down on
> > the Start button causes the starter to keep turning for as long as I
> > hold down the button. Which leads me to hypothesis number two: my Low
> > Oil Pressure circuit works.
> >
> > The Control Board only has so many inputs. Alternator power is one,
> > and I beleive it's good or close to it. Oil pressure is another. All
> > other things equal, my gut is telling me that the VR may be keeping it
> > from cranking the way it's supposed to.
> >
> > I need to learn how to use my meter better. I don't get voltages or
> > resistance values that I think I should be getting. Where the heck is
> > a good ground? The exhaust manifold? Negative battery terminal?
> >
> > Tonight's wrenching session was cut very short: wife isn't feeling
> > well, and I'm being dutiful husband instead of messing about in the
> > garage.
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Later after you get it running you can remove the tape from the leads
> and reinstall them to reactivate the the battery charging and power supply
> function.
> > >
> > > Why would you want the VR / charger it to work?
> >
> > I don't. This Onan is destined for the Royale. I *would* like to learn
> as much as I can, though, since I'm going to have to keep at least two of
> these things running.
> >
> > Robin Hood
>
> Let's see if I can address some of the issues. First it looks like your
> alternator is running. It also sounds like relay K2 is slow to pick up.
> This is the relay that keeps the Onan running once you let go of the start
> button. I have seen this slow relay happen many times on these boards and
> it is usually due to low DC voltage across relay K2's coil. Several
> things can cause this but the first thing we want to verify is that you
> have the correct AC voltage coming out of the alternator.
>
> So start the generator with the jumper installed, then remove the jumper
> and with the Onan still running I would like to know what the AC voltage is
> across Pin 8 and Pin 5 (or Pin 8 and Pin 11). It should be somewhere in
> the neighborhood of 28 volts AC.
>
> If we have that AC voltage correct then we can call the alternator good
> and start looking at the board.
>
> Next is to identify which leads go where.
>
> This should not be too difficult.
>
> With the Onan not running and the battery disconnected, pull the wire off
> of Pin 8 and attach one of the ohmmeter leads to it. Then probe all three
> leads on the VR looking for continuity. If you find only one, then that is
> the wire going to pin 8. If you find more than one then disconnect the
> wires at the VR and probe them again looking for the only one with
> continuity. That takes care of one of the three.
>
> Now connect the ohm meter to the fuse and probe the remaining 2 wires the
> one with continuity is the one that should plug on the B+ terminal.
>
> The leaves the last one. Find the wire coming out of the alternator. I
> read it is yellow somewhere but I haven't been able to verify that.
> Connect your ohmmeter to it and you should see continuity between the
> yellow wire end and the remaining terminal at the VR.
>
> Now that you have identified all 3 wires, the wire to the alternator and
> the wire to board pin 8 should be hooked together and taped or they can
> hooked together and plugged on to the VR pin L2. That's it.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
> _______________________________________________
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>
--
Robin Hood
Jackson, MS
2003 Buick Lesabre
1968 Pontiac Catalina
1978 GMC Royale motorhome
1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome
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| Re: [GMCnet] I give up. (Onan) [message #190436 is a reply to message #190423] |
Thu, 15 November 2012 21:16 |
Robin Hood
Messages: 1078
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 3
|
Senior Member |
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On Thu, Nov 15, 2012 at 7:19 PM, Robin Hood <loxley@gmail.com> wrote:
> Is there a failure mode that includes backfires and the 5 amp fuse blowing?
>
http://youtu.be/Oz_ZPHdO3FE
Summary:
1. Ok, no more drinking.
2. I started the generator, removed the jumpers, and just as I was
about to put the meter on pins 8 and 11, the generator started to die,
and then died with a spectacular backfire. You can see the glow of the
fireball coming out the exhaust pipe.
3. Soon after this, likely due to either the backfire or due to me
poking around with my meter trying to make sure I got onto pins 8 and
11, I noticed the 5 amp fuse was blown.
4. I found 1 wire on the VR that had continuity with wire number 8,
another wire on the VR with continuity going to the now-empty fuse
holder ("B-pos), and one wire on the VR that I don't know where
terminates. There is not continuity between any wire and the wire
currently connected to pin 8 on the board.
5. Jumpering the board no longer even causes the fuel pump to run.
I believe the same thing would have happened had I just been drinking
a coke, but, yeah, lesson learned.
--
Robin Hood
Jackson, MS
2003 Buick Lesabre
1968 Pontiac Catalina
1978 GMC Royale motorhome
1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome
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