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Possible cure to the gas smell when you overflow at the pump. [message #189849] Sat, 10 November 2012 19:58 Go to next message
kerry pinkerton is currently offline  kerry pinkerton   United States
Messages: 2565
Registered: July 2012
Location: Harvest, Al
Karma: 15
Senior Member
Gallery photos and description here:

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/overflow-gas-smell-solution/p46356-r-0011.html

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6226/R_0011.jpg
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6226/R_0011.jpg

While replacing my carpet, I decided to pull the drivers wall and look into the gas smell when I overflowed the filler.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6226/R_0021.jpg
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6226/R_0021.jpg

I was expecting to find a rubber hose based on some of the comments to my 'gas smell' thread. Instead it was all metal through the floor. The problem is, I THINK, the rubber washer is not compressed by the three pop rivets. and is old and dry. This allows gas to leak into the area behind the drivers wall and permeate the coach.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6226/R_0031.jpg
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6226/R_0031.jpg

Another view.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6226/R_004.jpg
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6226/R_004.jpg

The original rubber disk turned to crap when I removed the pop rivets. I found an oring that would slip over the filler tube from the top. I was able to push it UNDER the housing by pressing down on the tube and pushing the O ring through the crack. I then BOLTED the assembly into the housing with some stainless #8 screws, lock washers, and nuts.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6226/R_005.jpg
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6226/R_005.jpg

I poured some gas all over the assembly like a really bad overflow at the pump. NO SMELL inside.

If I had bothered to take the rubber hoses off down at the chassis and get the tubes loose, I could have cut a new rubber washer and drill three more holes. 6 screws and some good rubber should seal it forever...well longer than I'll live anyway. Hopefully it will last and work as expected. I'll be testing it next month.

As part of a process, I think I'll start wrapping a paper towel around the filler tube when I gas up. That should grab most of the overflow and I'll try and be more careful. We'll see.


Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L

[Updated on: Sat, 10 November 2012 22:16]

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Re: Possible cure to the gas smell when you overflow at the pump. [message #189852 is a reply to message #189849] Sat, 10 November 2012 21:56 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
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Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
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Does anybody know when the fill vent (shown in Kerry's pictures as steel and welded into the fill neck) changed to that from the rubber that mine (a 73) was ?

Great pictures Kerry - Thanks.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: Possible cure to the gas smell when you overflow at the pump. [message #189854 is a reply to message #189852] Sat, 10 November 2012 23:24 Go to previous message
GMC Cruse is currently offline  GMC Cruse   United States
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Registered: June 2009
Location: SE Michigan
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Senior Member
Matt Colie wrote on Sat, 10 November 2012 22:56

Does anybody know when the fill vent (shown in Kerry's pictures as steel and welded into the fill neck) changed to that from the rubber that mine (a 73) was ?

Great pictures Kerry - Thanks.

Matt


The Parts Book page 12-3 lists:

"29 Hose-fuel filler, front (CTL)( prior to Serial No. 5v100529)"

In the illustrationon page 12-2, the "29" is right where the vent hose would connect at the top of the fuel filler.


Mike K. '75 PB Southeast Michigan
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