Re: [GMCnet] Battery and/or starting issues [message #189046 is a reply to message #189043] |
Sat, 03 November 2012 09:31 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117 Registered: August 2005
Karma:
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Senior Member |
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read this set of info
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5493-gmc-cranking-improve-for-free.html
- engine battery should hook directly to the starter
- not good to crank thru the cut-off switch (370 amp draw)
- ground from the battery to the engine
- ground from the battery to the frame
good luck
gene
On Sat, Nov 3, 2012 at 7:06 AM, Kerry Pinkerton <Pinkertonk@mchsi.com>wrote:
>
>
> Trying to work through a few issues on the new coach.
>
> When we first looked at it, we had to hit the boost button to start it.
> NOTHING on the engine battery. Decided the mechanic had thrown the
> disconnect switch the wrong way.
>
> When we went to pick it up, the engine battery was very weak and wouldn't
> start the coach. Charged it a while at the dealer and it made some noises
> but we finally just hit boost and drove it home.
>
> Better noises when we got home after a 2 hour interstate run. Gauge
> showed 13V charging all the way.
>
> Been plugged in to shore power since. Engine battery still won't start
> the engine by itself. My meter showed 12.5V on the battery so I pulled it
> and took it to my local Advance. They tested and said it was not fully
> charged but the result was iffy. I've had it on the charger all night and
> will let them test it again today. This morning, my charger says the
> battery is at 100%. Whether it stays at 100% or will take a load is the
> question.
>
> The battery connectors looked clean and were tight. There is a large
> battery disconnect in the circuit that I have not bypassed to see if it is
> the problem. On the list to do.
>
> The other thing I noticed is that they battery cables are these common 4
> gauge things. I'm wondering if I should replace them with the heavier 2
> gauge wires. There are several wires that would need to be replaced if I
> go this route. Advance sells some of the heavier cables I need but some
> will need to be fabricated. They sell the wire (clear insulation 2 gauge
> copper) by the foot with solder on connectors or crimp on connectors. I'm
> thinking I'll go the solder on approach with shrink tubing.
>
> Since the house battery starts the engine fine, I assume that wiring is OK
> but I'll look at it also.
>
> The house battery is a fairly new 12V. The engine battery is a 5 year old
> 950Amp top of the line from Advance. Based on what I've read while
> drinking from the GMC firehose here, the hot setup is to put two 6V golf
> cart batteries in series for the house battery. If my engine battery is
> bad, I can pull the house battery and move it up front and go with two 6 V
> for the rear.
>
> Thoughts, suggestions, and comments please.
> --
> Kerry Pinkerton
>
> North Alabama, near Huntsville,
>
> 77 Eleganza II, The Lady, 403
>
>
> 76 Eleganza being rebodied as an Art Deco car hauler
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--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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