| CV boot replacement help? [message #187557] |
Wed, 17 October 2012 12:52  |
armandminnie
Messages: 864
Registered: May 2009
Location: Marana, AZ
Karma: 2
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I read all about how to replace the CV boot without removing the axle so decided to give it a try. I managed to get the driver's side axle loose by expanding the snap ring. I can slide the axle toward the FD but not enough to get it out of the CV joint. Am I doing something wrong?
Armand Minnie
Marana, AZ
'76 Eleganza II TZE166V103202
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| Re: CV boot replacement help? [message #187558 is a reply to message #187557] |
Wed, 17 October 2012 13:09  |
habbyguy
Messages: 896
Registered: May 2012
Location: Mesa, AZ
Karma: 3
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I just did my passenger-side CV boot, without removing the axle. As I recall, I had to disconnect the tie rod end on the knuckle to get enough play to get the axle out (maybe it was the upper ball joint... I really don't remember, other than it wasn't a big deal). I think you'll have a very hard time getting out the axle without disconnecting something to allow the knuckle more room to move. Remember to hit the portion of the knuckle that contains the tapered portion of the tie rod end or ball joint - that'll usually free up the joint in short order with no drama and no damage).
If I was a little closer I'd come give you a hand with the job.
Mark Hickey
Mesa, AZ
1978 Royale Center Kitchen
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| Re: CV boot replacement help? [message #187562 is a reply to message #187559] |
Wed, 17 October 2012 13:45 |
habbyguy
Messages: 896
Registered: May 2012
Location: Mesa, AZ
Karma: 3
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I found I couldn't get my axle out without some more wiggle room, so removed the tie rod end (or ball joint... don't remember for sure).
Usually the only tool you need to remove a tie rod end is a hammer. Just hit (really, really hit!) the knuckle right where the tapered end of the tie rod end goes through. The dynamics of this impact will generally loosen the tapered force-fit connection between the two pieces, and leave the tie rod end loose enough to tap out with a very light smack, or often, it'll just fall out.
Counter-intuitively, hammering on the other end of the tie rod end (the nutted end) will generally not do squat, other than possibly messing up the threads.
Good luck with your repair!
Mark Hickey
Mesa, AZ
1978 Royale Center Kitchen
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| Re: CV boot replacement help? [message #187567 is a reply to message #187557] |
Wed, 17 October 2012 14:41 |
skip2
Messages: 544
Registered: September 2011
Location: Winter Haven,FL (center o...
Karma: 3
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When I did mine I got the shafts out without unhooking tierod ends. Don't remember anything on left other than turning hard one way and on the right taking the oil filter off. The best trick I figured out in keeping grease out of the internal area on the large ID of the rubber boot, so it would seal good to the joint, when working with it was after sliding it up on the shaft and while greasing the the actual joint up good, was to turn the lip out over itself and then when you slide it down over the joint you get no grease on the seal surface. I also used an adapter needle on the grease gun, which looked like a hyperdrmic needle to make sure the grease was thoroughly injected in the joint. just some thoughts with multiple run-on sentences.
Skip Hartline
74 Canyon Lands, FiTech,
3.7 FD LSD, Manny Tranny,
Springfield Distributor,
2001 Chevy Tracker Ragtop Towd
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| Re: CV boot replacement help? [message #187568 is a reply to message #187557] |
Wed, 17 October 2012 15:01 |
skip2
Messages: 544
Registered: September 2011
Location: Winter Haven,FL (center o...
Karma: 3
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Also strongly suggest spraying down the boots with some 303 aerospace protectant, or something like it, when you get through, they seem to dry rot real fast no matter who makes them.
Skip
74 Canyon Lands, FiTech,
3.7 FD LSD, Manny Tranny,
Springfield Distributor,
2001 Chevy Tracker Ragtop Towd
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| Re: CV boot replacement help? [message #187825 is a reply to message #187557] |
Sat, 20 October 2012 21:33 |
kingd
Messages: 592
Registered: June 2004
Karma: 2
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Re removing a ball joint or tie rod out of the tapered hole. I find it works well if you have 2 small short handled "sledges" like 2 1/2 pounds each. Figure out which hand you want to swing with. May not be the hand you would normally hammer with due to things being in the way. With your other hand, hold the other large "hammer on the backside of what you are going to hit. Hit the "front" side hard and sharply. Don't "pussy" about. For a tie rod, quite often 1 blow will do.
DAVE KING
lurker, wannabe
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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