Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Transaxle boot (Seal - outer board)
| [GMCnet] Transaxle boot (Seal - outer board) [message #184751] |
Sun, 16 September 2012 17:34  |
mmmm ka
Messages: 45
Registered: May 2012
Karma: 0
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I see on http://gmcmotorhome.info/front.html under the remove boot section that the boots can be replaced without taking out the axle.
"Replace the CV boot with out removing the axle
Jack up the front of the coach, block it,
remove wheel (optional), remove the tie rod from the knuckle(optional,
but it will give you more room & flexibility), cut the old boot
off, with a snap ring pliers, EXPAND snap ring in the outer CV joint
and slide axle towards the inner plunge joint, clean as needed, install
new boot on axle, slide axle into outer CV joint, snap ring will expand
as axle is pushed into CV joint, MAKE SURE SNAP RING IS SEATED, install
grease and position CV boot, burp the air out of the boot and clamp it,
try to keep the surface for the outer clamp surface as dry as possible.
This is about an 1-1/2 hour job per side, good luck. Bob
Drewes in SES "
Am I interpreting these instructions correctly that by pushing the axle into the final drive (transmission ?) I will be able to slide the new boot on ? Will I need any special tools to disconnect the axle and to install the clamps ?
Or would this be better left to a local shop ?
Thanks for any advice
Mark Kasiewicz & Dawn Koepp
77 Kingsley GusDaBus (Orange Carpet & all)
Eau Claire WI
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| Re: [GMCnet] Transaxle boot (Seal - outer board) [message #184762 is a reply to message #184751] |
Sun, 16 September 2012 19:55  |
Craig Lechowicz
Messages: 541
Registered: October 2006
Location: Waterford, MI
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Mark,
It at least sounds theoretically possible to do it without removing the axle shaft. It actually pushes the axle further into the inner tri-pot joint, as the flange on the differential is pretty well fixed in location. I'm probably pretty clutzy, but I would think that might be a difficult way to go for two reasons. It's fairly tricky to get that snap ring off, and with it still on the vehicle, working room will be an issue. I'm sure someone makes the perfect pair of snap ring pliers that makes that easy, but of the 3 or 4 that I own, none of them are it.
The 2nd thing, between being 30+ years old, and already torn, there is probably a lot of dirt, goo and ancient grease in there that you want out. And, it's probably a lot easier to clean if you have it out of the vehicle to disassemble and clean.
I already had my knuckles off when doing mine, so they were easy to get off. But, there have been several threads on here about removing the axle shaft without taking the suspension/knuckle apart. I may not remember right, but I think you have to take off the oil filter, and depending on how lucky you are or whose instruction you follow, possibly the starter and shock as well. Someone else can pop in on that. If you choose to disassemble it all the way, the hardest part is getting the large nut off the end of the axle shaft. Took about a 5 foot pipe on the end of a 3/4" ratchet on mine, with all of my weight on it, and I'm fat.
Inner bolts if original are a 12 point head, which not everyone has 12 point sockets and according to the manual, should be replaced, although some have used them over without difficulty. There's a lot of opinions on what to put back in for grease. I used Red Lyne synthetic, others have used what comes with the kit, Mobil 1 (out of favor, lately) or Valvoline SynPower. There is also a tool or tools to put the bands on the new boots.
Jim Kanomoto would have everything you need, but maybe not with him. You might send him a note to bring it. I'm not sure what the policy for working on stuff is at Amana, but it wouldn't be that bad of job to do there. It's kind of messy to clean everything up and get the new grease in, but otherwise, not that big of a deal.
Craig Lechowicz
'77 Kingsley, Waterford, MI
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| Re: [GMCnet] Transaxle boot (Seal - outer board) [message #184769 is a reply to message #184751] |
Sun, 16 September 2012 21:36 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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G'day,
Depends on how skilled a mechanic you are; Bob Drewes is one hell of a mechanic!
Regards,
Rob
-----Original Message-----
From: mmmm ka
I see on http://gmcmotorhome.info/front.html under the remove boot section that the boots can be replaced without taking out the
axle.
"Replace the CV boot with out removing the axle
Jack up the front of the coach, block it,
remove wheel (optional), remove the tie rod from the knuckle(optional,
but it will give you more room & flexibility), cut the old boot
off, with a snap ring pliers, EXPAND snap ring in the outer CV joint
and slide axle towards the inner plunge joint, clean as needed, install
new boot on axle, slide axle into outer CV joint, snap ring will expand
as axle is pushed into CV joint, MAKE SURE SNAP RING IS SEATED, install
grease and position CV boot, burp the air out of the boot and clamp it,
try to keep the surface for the outer clamp surface as dry as possible.
This is about an 1-1/2 hour job per side, good luck. Bob
Drewes in SES "
Am I interpreting these instructions correctly that by pushing the axle into the final drive (transmission ?) I will be able to
slide the new boot on ? Will I need any special tools to disconnect the axle and to install the clamps ?
Or would this be better left to a local shop ?
Thanks for any advice
Mark Kasiewicz & Dawn Koepp
77 Kingsley GusDaBus (Orange Carpet & all)
Eau Claire WI
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Transaxle boot (Seal - outer board) [message #184774 is a reply to message #184762] |
Sun, 16 September 2012 22:13 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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careful, this direction could be a slippery slope
when you start to do more than fix the broken part, you might
- find the cv joints are bad (there are no new ones available)
- while you are there, you might check how the bearings are (only last
about 30,000 miles)
- destructive to replace the bearings ( ball joints, knuckles, seals, etc)
- need to up grade to zerk knuckles to get 80,000 mile bearings
- need to rebuild front end, bushings
- need $600 puller to do bearings
- how are the brakes and pads
- etc
You may soon find it cheaper, and longer lived , to just put in the 1 ton
VII front end - with all new ,and available parts (100,000 to 200,000 mile
sealed bearings ;>)
http://gmcmotorhome.info/front.html
so, unless you are ready for the whole enchilada, it might be best to:
"if it an't broke, don't fix it" ,and replace the boot
or
if it is broke, gopher for the 1 ton
just saying
gene
>
>
> Mark,
> It at least sounds theoretically possible to do it without removing the
> axle shaft. It actually pushes the axle further into the inner tri-pot
> joint, as the flange on the differential is pretty well fixed in location.
> I'm probably pretty clutzy, but I would think that might be a difficult
> way to go for two reasons. It's fairly tricky to get that snap ring off,
> and with it still on the vehicle, working room will be an issue. I'm sure
> someone makes the perfect pair of snap ring pliers that makes that easy,
> but of the 3 or 4 that I own, none of them are it.
>
> The 2nd thing, between being 30+ years old, and already torn, there is
> probably a lot of dirt, goo and ancient grease in there that you want out.
> And, it's probably a lot easier to clean if you have it out of the vehicle
> to disassemble and clean.
>
> I already had my knuckles off when doing mine, so they were easy to get
> off. But, there have been several threads on here about removing the axle
> shaft without taking the suspension/knuckle apart. I may not remember
> right, but I think you have to take off the oil filter, and depending on
> how lucky you are or whose instruction you follow, possibly the starter and
> shock as well. Someone else can pop in on that. If you choose to
> disassemble it all the way, the hardest part is getting the large nut off
> the end of the axle shaft. Took about a 5 foot pipe on the end of a 3/4"
> ratchet on mine, with all of my weight on it, and I'm fat.
>
> Inner bolts if original are a 12 point head, which not everyone has 12
> point sockets and according to the manual, should be replaced, although
> some have used them over without difficulty. There's a lot of opinions on
> what to put back in for grease. I used Red Lyne synthetic, others have
> used what comes with the kit, Mobil 1 (out of favor, lately) or Valvoline
> SynPower. There is also a tool or tools to put the bands on the new
> boots.
>
> Jim Kanomoto would have everything you need, but maybe not with him. You
> might send him a note to bring it. I'm not sure what the policy for
> working on stuff is at Amana, but it wouldn't be that bad of job to do
> there. It's kind of messy to clean everything up and get the new grease
> in, but otherwise, not that big of a deal.
> --
> Craig Lechowicz
> '77 Kingsley, Waterford, MI
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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| Re: [GMCnet] Transaxle boot (Seal - outer board) [message #185066 is a reply to message #184751] |
Wed, 19 September 2012 06:16 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Mark,
I've never tried Bob Drewes' method, but it sounds difficult to me. I've
replaced several axles, always without removing the knuckle.
Perhaps this will help:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3120-replacing-a-cv-joint-boot.html
It is NOT necessary to remove the oil filter nor starter, nor even to
disconnect the tie rod. But you may spend considerable time figuring out
that one "hole" into which the inner end of the axle assembly can be poked
to enable the outer end to come out of the knuckle. It probably will be
easier with the shock absorber removed -- been a long time since I did one.
Ken H.
On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 6:34 PM, mmmm ka wrote:
> I see on http://gmcmotorhome.info/front.html under the remove boot
> section that the boots can be replaced without taking out the axle.
>
>
> "Replace the CV boot with out removing the axle
> Jack up the front of the coach, block it,
> remove wheel (optional), remove the tie rod from the knuckle(optional,
> but it will give you more room & flexibility), cut the old boot
> off, with a snap ring pliers, EXPAND snap ring in the outer CV joint
> and slide axle towards the inner plunge joint, clean as needed, install
> new boot on axle, slide axle into outer CV joint, snap ring will expand
> as axle is pushed into CV joint, MAKE SURE SNAP RING IS SEATED, install
> grease and position CV boot, burp the air out of the boot and clamp it,
> try to keep the surface for the outer clamp surface as dry as possible.
> This is about an 1-1/2 hour job per side, good luck. Bob
> Drewes in SES "
>
>
>
> Am I interpreting these instructions correctly that by pushing the axle
> into the final drive (transmission ?) I will be able to slide the new boot
> on ? Will I need any special tools to disconnect the axle and to install
> the clamps ?
>
>
> Or would this be better left to a local shop ?
>
>
> Thanks for any advice
>
> Mark Kasiewicz & Dawn Koepp
> 77 Kingsley GusDaBus (Orange Carpet & all)
> Eau Claire WI
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Transaxle boot (Seal - outer board) [message #185083 is a reply to message #184751] |
Wed, 19 September 2012 10:06 |
Craig Lechowicz
Messages: 541
Registered: October 2006
Location: Waterford, MI
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Ken,
Wow, that is really a nice job of documenting that process, and really good photos. I wish I had the patience to stop, clean up and take that many photo's along the way. I'm usually to busy spitting and swearing . . .
Craig Lechowicz
'77 Kingsley, Waterford, MI
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