Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Too much A/C oil?
| Too much A/C oil? [message #184173] |
Wed, 12 September 2012 18:28  |
kwharland
Messages: 246
Registered: November 2005
Location: Central Florida
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Did I mess up? I've replaced the compressor, receiver/dryer and expansion valve. The compressor came with oil in it, unsure of how much and the distributor said I should probably add more oil to the system. My mechanic also said I should add about an ounce considering I replaced the dryer.
The pressurized can I got from the part store was supposed to be 2 ounces so I figured I give it a shot then cap it off before it all went in. Unfortunately that didn't happen, the whole can immediately discharged into the system, probably because it was the first thing I added and the system was still holding a vacuum. A closer look revealed the can held 3 ounces!
So anyway, I decide probably no harm done and added the Duracool. Based on advice reported here, I believed it would take 2 full cans and a part of the third. The consensus is add until you get to 30-35 psi on the suction side. After two cans, I'm at 42 psi! Cooling at idle seems okay but is it going to be too much when I'm traveling down the road? Did the extra oil...if there is in fact, extra, cause a problem? Where to go from here?
1978 Eleganza II
|
|
|
|
| Re: Too much A/C oil? [message #184192 is a reply to message #184173] |
Wed, 12 September 2012 20:38  |
roy1
Messages: 2126
Registered: July 2004
Location: Minden nevada
Karma: 6
|
Senior Member |
|
|
| kwharland wrote on Wed, 12 September 2012 16:28 |
Did I mess up? I've replaced the compressor, receiver/dryer and expansion valve. The compressor came with oil in it, unsure of how much and the distributor said I should probably add more oil to the system. My mechanic also said I should add about an ounce considering I replaced the dryer.
The pressurized can I got from the part store was supposed to be 2 ounces so I figured I give it a shot then cap it off before it all went in. Unfortunately that didn't happen, the whole can immediately discharged into the system, probably because it was the first thing I added and the system was still holding a vacuum. A closer look revealed the can held 3 ounces!
So anyway, I decide probably no harm done and added the Duracool. Based on advice reported here, I believed it would take 2 full cans and a part of the third. The consensus is add until you get to 30-35 psi on the suction side. After two cans, I'm at 42 psi! Cooling at idle seems okay but is it going to be too much when I'm traveling down the road? Did the extra oil...if there is in fact, extra, cause a problem? Where to go from here?
|
If you changed all those parts you are probably OK on the oil. You need to check the suction pressure at 1500 RPM. At idle the compressor isn't pumping enough and the pressure will be higher. You will likely find another can of duracool will be needed. Charge to around 25 PSI on a hot day less if it isn't hot.
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook
|
|
|
|
| Re: Too much A/C oil? [message #184222 is a reply to message #184173] |
Wed, 12 September 2012 22:33 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I bet you are ok. It's a fairly large system and an OZ isn't that much.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Too much A/C oil? [message #184225 is a reply to message #184173] |
Wed, 12 September 2012 23:17 |
emerystora
Messages: 4442
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 13
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Your 30-35 psi OS way too high. The lower the pressure the colder it is. I don't know where you got the " consensus" at 30-35. It should be 20-25 depending on the ambient temperature and measured at. 1500 rpm.
Emery Stora
On Sep 12, 2012, at 5:28 PM, Ken Harland <kwharland@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>
> Did I mess up? I've replaced the compressor, receiver/dryer and expansion valve. The compressor came with oil in it, unsure of how much and the distributor said I should probably add more oil to the system. My mechanic also said I should add about an ounce considering I replaced the dryer.
>
> The pressurized can I got from the part store was supposed to be 2 ounces so I figured I give it a shot then cap it off before it all went in. Unfortunately that didn't happen, the whole can immediately discharged into the system, probably because it was the first thing I added and the system was still holding a vacuum. A closer look revealed the can held 3 ounces!
>
> So anyway, I decide probably no harm done and added the Duracool. Based on advice reported here, I believed it would take 2 full cans and a part of the third. The consensus is add until you get to 30-35 psi on the suction side. After two cans, I'm at 42 psi! Cooling at idle seems okay but is it going to be too much when I'm traveling down the road? Did the extra oil...if there is in fact, extra, cause a problem? Where to go from here?
> --
> 1978 Eleganza II
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Too much A/C oil? [message #184249 is a reply to message #184225] |
Thu, 13 September 2012 07:18 |
kwharland
Messages: 246
Registered: November 2005
Location: Central Florida
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
| emerystora wrote on Thu, 13 September 2012 00:17 |
Your 30-35 psi OS way too high. The lower the pressure the colder it is. I don't know where you got the " consensus" at 30-35. It should be 20-25 depending on the ambient temperature and measured at. 1500 rpm.
Emery Stora
|
Well, here for one...
http://gmcmotorhome.info/heat.html#duracool
And couple other threads I read were in agreement. I don't recall reading any that said 20-25.
1978 Eleganza II
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: Too much A/C oil? [message #184268 is a reply to message #184173] |
Thu, 13 September 2012 09:27 |
 |
Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
|
Senior Member |
|
|
| kwharland wrote on Wed, 12 September 2012 19:28 |
Did I mess up? I've replaced the compressor, receiver/dryer and expansion valve. The compressor came with oil in it, unsure of how much and the distributor said I should probably add more oil to the system. My mechanic also said I should add about an ounce considering I replaced the dryer.
The pressurized can I got from the part store was supposed to be 2 ounces so I figured I give it a shot then cap it off before it all went in. Unfortunately that didn't happen, the whole can immediately discharged into the system, probably because it was the first thing I added and the system was still holding a vacuum. A closer look revealed the can held 3 ounces!
So anyway, I decide probably no harm done and added the Duracool. Based on advice reported here, I believed it would take 2 full cans and a part of the third. The consensus is add until you get to 30-35 psi on the suction side. After two cans, I'm at 42 psi! Cooling at idle seems okay but is it going to be too much when I'm traveling down the road? Did the extra oil...if there is in fact, extra, cause a problem? Where to go from here?
|
KenK,
Unless you hear the compressor chirp the belt regularly, you should not worry about the amount of oil in the system. When refrigeration systems are designed, the oil charge is always just a guess.
The pump (compressor) in the system has to be very seriously over oiled before it can be damaged by a hydraulic lock.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Too much A/C oil? [message #184789 is a reply to message #184767] |
Mon, 17 September 2012 08:54 |
|
Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
|
Senior Member |
|
|
| Brian Waddell wrote on Sun, 16 September 2012 21:54 |
I had my compressor front bearing changed by a ac shop.......I installed a new rec/dryer....I vacated the system and it held vacuum for days.....I added slightly less than 3cans duracool....system cools ok but the ac belt slips....it is not a false freeze up as it slips right away....I have tightened the belt many times and is now extremely tight....this is a new belt but it may not be 11mm....Question....could lack of oil be the problem?,,,,can I buy the mineral oil in a pressure can like duracool?...thanks brian...77 ele 455
|
Brian,
If the pump (compressor) was locking up (seizing) due to a lack of oil, it would probably stay seized after just a very few events. And, this is an unlikely failure if there is oil in the system at all.
If the belt is not the correct width, it will squeal and slip up until it finally breaks.
Yes, Duracool with oil is available.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Too much A/C oil? [message #184914 is a reply to message #184789] |
Mon, 17 September 2012 23:25 |
Brian Waddell
Messages: 409
Registered: March 2010
Karma: -4
|
Senior Member |
|
|
the new ac belt I have on is a goodyear gatorback 10av1575 and is about 9mm wide, it is a cogged type belt, it sits not at the top of the pulleys.....so ....upon checking the gmc mh sites I decided on a dayco belt...upon further checking I find that one guy says do not put on a dayco......I want a solid AC belt...meaning no cogs...any sugestions....77 ele 455....thanks...brian
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> From: matt7323tze@gmail.com
> Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 08:54:15 -0500
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Too much A/C oil?
>
>
>
> Brian Waddell wrote on Sun, 16 September 2012 21:54
> > I had my compressor front bearing changed by a ac shop.......I installed a new rec/dryer....I vacated the system and it held vacuum for days.....I added slightly less than 3cans duracool....system cools ok but the ac belt slips....it is not a false freeze up as it slips right away....I have tightened the belt many times and is now extremely tight....this is a new belt but it may not be 11mm....Question....could lack of oil be the problem?,,,,can I buy the mineral oil in a pressure can like duracool?...thanks brian...77 ele 455
>
> Brian,
>
> If the pump (compressor) was locking up (seizing) due to a lack of oil, it would probably stay seized after just a very few events. And, this is an unlikely failure if there is oil in the system at all.
>
> If the belt is not the correct width, it will squeal and slip up until it finally breaks.
>
> Yes, Duracool with oil is available.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie
> '73 Glacier 23 Chaumière (say show-me-air) Just about as stock as you will find
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Too much A/C oil? [message #184930 is a reply to message #184914] |
Tue, 18 September 2012 07:25 |
Richard Denney
Messages: 920
Registered: April 2010
Karma: 9
|
Senior Member |
|
|
On Tue, Sep 18, 2012 at 12:25 AM, Brian Waddell <sperline1@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> the new ac belt I have on is a goodyear gatorback 10av1575 and is about 9mm wide, it is a cogged type belt, it sits not at the top of the pulleys.....so ....upon checking the gmc mh sites I decided on a dayco belt...upon further checking I find that one guy says do not put on a dayco......I want a solid AC belt...meaning no cogs...any sugestions....77 ele 455....thanks...brian
>
The cogs are not the problem--don't worry about them. But the width
is--the belt may well be riding on the bottom of the groove instead of
the sides, and it will not transfer power effectvely if that is the
case. The brand of the belt is not important but the width is.
Unfortunately, Dayco seems to be a brand that is selling narrower
belts even with the wider designation. The only way to know is to
measure the belt--it would seem that the brands we thought were still
careful about the width (including Goodyear) are no longer reliable in
that regard.
The correct belts are "15"-series belts with a nominal width of
15/32", in the classic SAE sizing system. That is nearly 12mm. If the
belt is snug in an 11mm (or 7/16") wrench, it's probably good enough.
The belt you have is nominally 10mm wide across the top (the first
"10" in metric sizing), which is too narrow as you have found. You may
use 11xxxx belts, which are nominally 11mm wide, or even 13xxxx belts,
which may be a hair wider than the classic "15"-series belts that are
15/32" wide. The 11xxxx metric belts may or may not be wide enough
depending on the wear on your pulleys.
The belt should not sit down in the pulley. The top serface of he belt
should actually sit slightly outside the pulley.
Rick "size does matter" Denney
--
'73 230 "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Too much A/C oil? [message #185006 is a reply to message #184930] |
Tue, 18 September 2012 15:27 |
Kosier
Messages: 834
Registered: February 2008
Karma: 1
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Rick,
You are wrong about Dayco, because you are not measuring the belts
correctly.
Put the belt on a machinists protractor set on 38 degrees and measure across
the top. Dayco belts have the top corners clipped, so they don't tear the
top
cover off. You can call Dayco engineering, as I did, or take my word for
it.
Gary Kosier
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Denney
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2012 8:25 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Too much A/C oil?
On Tue, Sep 18, 2012 at 12:25 AM, Brian Waddell <sperline1@hotmail.com>
wrote:
>
> the new ac belt I have on is a goodyear gatorback 10av1575 and is about
> 9mm wide, it is a cogged type belt, it sits not at the top of the
> pulleys.....so ....upon checking the gmc mh sites I decided on a dayco
> belt...upon further checking I find that one guy says do not put on a
> dayco......I want a solid AC belt...meaning no cogs...any sugestions....77
> ele 455....thanks...brian
>
The cogs are not the problem--don't worry about them. But the width
is--the belt may well be riding on the bottom of the groove instead of
the sides, and it will not transfer power effectvely if that is the
case. The brand of the belt is not important but the width is.
Unfortunately, Dayco seems to be a brand that is selling narrower
belts even with the wider designation. The only way to know is to
measure the belt--it would seem that the brands we thought were still
careful about the width (including Goodyear) are no longer reliable in
that regard.
The correct belts are "15"-series belts with a nominal width of
15/32", in the classic SAE sizing system. That is nearly 12mm. If the
belt is snug in an 11mm (or 7/16") wrench, it's probably good enough.
The belt you have is nominally 10mm wide across the top (the first
"10" in metric sizing), which is too narrow as you have found. You may
use 11xxxx belts, which are nominally 11mm wide, or even 13xxxx belts,
which may be a hair wider than the classic "15"-series belts that are
15/32" wide. The 11xxxx metric belts may or may not be wide enough
depending on the wear on your pulleys.
The belt should not sit down in the pulley. The top serface of he belt
should actually sit slightly outside the pulley.
Rick "size does matter" Denney
--
'73 230 "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
| [GMCnet] Switch at the entry door [message #185008 is a reply to message #185006] |
Tue, 18 September 2012 15:40 |
Fin Beven
Messages: 101
Registered: September 2005
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I am replacing all of the interior paneling, as much of mine had been
water-damaged over the years. I also had to remove what was there to make
the installation of the new-style windows possible.
I am wondering about the switch that is on the forward side of the entry
door, up high.
So far as I can tell, mine has never worked. No lights turn on when the
door is opened.
So far as I can tell, I have not cut it yet, it is just a single wire.
The only thing that makes sense to me is that this is a negative, ground
wire. When the door is open, the switch connects the wire to the chassis,
completing the circuit, and allowing an interior light to come on.
I realize that this does no make normal sense in wiring, as a switch would
almost always be on the positive side.
Any help on this would be appreciated.
Fin Beven
1976 ex-Edgemont
Pasadena, CA
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Switch at the entry door [message #185011 is a reply to message #185008] |
Tue, 18 September 2012 15:54 |
Jim jr
Messages: 26
Registered: May 2009
Location: Hamilton, Oh.
Karma: 0
|
Junior Member |
|
|
That switch was used to lite an indicator on the dash that the door was not closed.
On Sep 18, 2012, at 4:40 PM, Fin Beven wrote:
> I am replacing all of the interior paneling, as much of mine had been
> water-damaged over the years. I also had to remove what was there to make
> the installation of the new-style windows possible.
>
> I am wondering about the switch that is on the forward side of the entry
> door, up high.
>
> So far as I can tell, mine has never worked. No lights turn on when the
> door is opened.
>
> So far as I can tell, I have not cut it yet, it is just a single wire.
>
> The only thing that makes sense to me is that this is a negative, ground
> wire. When the door is open, the switch connects the wire to the chassis,
> completing the circuit, and allowing an interior light to come on.
>
> I realize that this does no make normal sense in wiring, as a switch would
> almost always be on the positive side.
>
> Any help on this would be appreciated.
>
> Fin Beven
> 1976 ex-Edgemont
> Pasadena, CA
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Switch at the entry door [message #185012 is a reply to message #185008] |
Tue, 18 September 2012 15:57 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Fin, That switch is the one that lights up the warning light in your oem
dash that says door. On some coaches that still have original horn/buzzer
relay, it also activates the buzzer when the keys are in the ignition and
the door is open. Some are 1wire, some are 2 wire.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC Royale 403
On Sep 18, 2012 1:40 PM, "Fin Beven" <FinBeven@msn.com> wrote:
> I am replacing all of the interior paneling, as much of mine had been
> water-damaged over the years. I also had to remove what was there to make
> the installation of the new-style windows possible.
>
> I am wondering about the switch that is on the forward side of the entry
> door, up high.
>
> So far as I can tell, mine has never worked. No lights turn on when the
> door is opened.
>
> So far as I can tell, I have not cut it yet, it is just a single wire.
>
> The only thing that makes sense to me is that this is a negative, ground
> wire. When the door is open, the switch connects the wire to the chassis,
> completing the circuit, and allowing an interior light to come on.
>
> I realize that this does no make normal sense in wiring, as a switch would
> almost always be on the positive side.
>
> Any help on this would be appreciated.
>
> Fin Beven
> 1976 ex-Edgemont
> Pasadena, CA
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Switch at the entry door [message #185013 is a reply to message #185008] |
Tue, 18 September 2012 16:05 |
 |
hnielsen2
Messages: 1434
Registered: February 2004
Location: Alpine CA
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
The switch is for the floor lights.
Howard
All is well with my Lord
The best argument against democracy is a five minute conversation with the
average voter
(Winston Churchill)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fin Beven" <FinBeven@MSN.com>
To: <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2012 13:40
Subject: [GMCnet] Switch at the entry door
>I am replacing all of the interior paneling, as much of mine had been
>water-damaged over the years. I also had to remove what was there to make
>the installation of the new-style windows possible.
>
> I am wondering about the switch that is on the forward side of the entry
> door, up high.
>
> So far as I can tell, mine has never worked. No lights turn on when the
> door is opened.
>
> So far as I can tell, I have not cut it yet, it is just a single wire.
>
> The only thing that makes sense to me is that this is a negative, ground
> wire. When the door is open, the switch connects the wire to the chassis,
> completing the circuit, and allowing an interior light to come on.
>
> I realize that this does no make normal sense in wiring, as a switch would
> almost always be on the positive side.
>
> Any help on this would be appreciated.
>
> Fin Beven
> 1976 ex-Edgemont
> Pasadena, CA
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
All is well with my Lord
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Switch at the entry door [message #185016 is a reply to message #185012] |
Tue, 18 September 2012 17:00 |
Fin Beven
Messages: 101
Registered: September 2005
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
So, Jim ....
If it's a "one wire", is it possible that it is acting as the negative /
ground side of a circuit for the lights ?
In mine, there is no "buzz" when starting the engine with the door open, I
have a new dash, with no "door open" light, and no lights are activated by
that switch, so far as I can tell.
Still wondering if it could just be intended to close the negative / ground
side of the circuit .... as it appears to be just one wire.
Fin.
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Hupy" <jamesh1296@gmail.com>
To: <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2012 1:57 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Switch at the entry door
> Fin, That switch is the one that lights up the warning light in your oem
> dash that says door. On some coaches that still have original horn/buzzer
> relay, it also activates the buzzer when the keys are in the ignition and
> the door is open. Some are 1wire, some are 2 wire.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Or
> 78 GMC Royale 403
> On Sep 18, 2012 1:40 PM, "Fin Beven" <FinBeven@msn.com> wrote:
>
> > I am replacing all of the interior paneling, as much of mine had been
> > water-damaged over the years. I also had to remove what was there to
> > make
> > the installation of the new-style windows possible.
> >
> > I am wondering about the switch that is on the forward side of the entry
> > door, up high.
> >
> > So far as I can tell, mine has never worked. No lights turn on when the
> > door is opened.
> >
> > So far as I can tell, I have not cut it yet, it is just a single wire.
> >
> > The only thing that makes sense to me is that this is a negative, ground
> > wire. When the door is open, the switch connects the wire to the
> > chassis,
> > completing the circuit, and allowing an interior light to come on.
> >
> > I realize that this does no make normal sense in wiring, as a switch
> > would
> > almost always be on the positive side.
> >
> > Any help on this would be appreciated.
> >
> > Fin Beven
> > 1976 ex-Edgemont
> > Pasadena, CA
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
Goto Forum:
Current Time: Sat Sep 21 23:48:38 CDT 2024
Total time taken to generate the page: 0.01604 seconds
|
GMCforum
Search
Help
Register
Login
Home
