Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Replacing sections of the subfloor on a 73
| Replacing sections of the subfloor on a 73 [message #180048] |
Mon, 13 August 2012 08:14  |
werewilfs
Messages: 329
Registered: July 2012
Location: Rappahannock County, VA
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We decided to pull up the carpet on our 73 and discovered a couple of sections of floor that need to be replaced. Is there anything we need to know about replacing small sections of floor on these?
I believe the 73 used 1" plywood and nothing else, correct? What kind of attachments are used and were they attached from the bottom? Any tips or tricks to removing the sections of floor and any gotchya's we need to watch out for?
Thanks!
Jared & Stefanie Kohl
Rappahannock County, VA
1973 Painted Desert "Onslow"
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| Re: Replacing sections of the subfloor on a 73 [message #180050 is a reply to message #180048] |
Mon, 13 August 2012 08:33  |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
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| werewilfs wrote on Mon, 13 August 2012 08:14 |
We decided to pull up the carpet on our 73 and discovered a couple of sections of floor that need to be replaced. Is there anything we need to know about replacing small sections of floor on these?
I believe the 73 used 1" plywood and nothing else, correct? What kind of attachments are used and were they attached from the bottom? Any tips or tricks to removing the sections of floor and any gotchya's we need to watch out for?
Thanks!
|
Jared,
I have only replaced one very small section -- a corner under my propane tank. Not difficult -- large pop-type rivets and a heavy glue held it in. While it was 1 inch plywood -- it had a number of steps routed into it so I made the replacement by laminating several layers together.
The floors under the front seats are often bad -- and sometime the ends of the steps into the cockpit. There are some albums on the photo site that show replacement. Again, lots of routed channels to accomodate the aluminum floor struts. Leigh Harrison, at one time, had replacement front floor sections.
Anyway, not too difficult, but expect it to take longer than it looks.
Dennis
Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
[Updated on: Mon, 13 August 2012 08:54] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Replacing sections of the subfloor on a 73 [message #180054 is a reply to message #180048] |
Mon, 13 August 2012 08:53 |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
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| werewilfs wrote on Mon, 13 August 2012 08:14 |
We decided to pull up the carpet on our 73 and discovered a couple of sections of floor that need to be replaced. Is there anything we need to know about replacing small sections of floor on these?
I believe the 73 used 1" plywood and nothing else, correct? What kind of attachments are used and were they attached from the bottom? Any tips or tricks to removing the sections of floor and any gotchya's we need to watch out for?
Thanks!
|
Oh, I did find one photo album by Rick on repairing his front floor...
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/leak-management/p16523.html
With a bit of searching you should be able to locate some that show the rear floor sections out and another showing the full cockpit floors.
Dennis
Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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| Re: [GMCnet] Replacing sections of the subfloor on a 73 [message #180055 is a reply to message #180050] |
Mon, 13 August 2012 08:59 |
werewilfs
Messages: 329
Registered: July 2012
Location: Rappahannock County, VA
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That's actually exactly where it is bad... Under the front dinette seat and the ends of the cockpit step are wasted away to just about nothing. The PO just covered it with carpet.
On the same note we may have an issue with a leak near the front of the coach. The PO swore up and down that he took care of all the leaks but he had it under cover for many years and we don't have a cover for it yet. So after a couple of heavy rain storms here we noticed some wet areas right near all the rotted floor areas.
________________________________
From: Dennis Sexton <dennisfsexton@aol.com>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 9:33 AM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Replacing sections of the subfloor on a 73
werewilfs wrote on Mon, 13 August 2012 08:14
> We decided to pull up the carpet on our 73 and discovered a couple of sections of floor that need to be replaced. Is there anything we need to know about replacing small sections of floor on these?
>
> I believe the 73 used 1" plywood and nothing else, correct? What kind of attachments are used and were they attached from the bottom? Any tips or tricks to removing the sections of floor and any gotchya's we need to watch out for?
>
> Thanks!
Jared,
I have only replace one very small section -- a corner under my propane tank. Not difficult -- large pop-type rivets a heavy glue held it in. While it was 1 inch plywood -- it had a number of steps routed into it so I made the replacement by laminating several layers together.
The floors under the front seats are often bad -- and sometime the ends of the steps into the cockpit. There are some albums on the photo site that show replacement. Again, lots of routed channels to accomodate the aluminum floor struts. Leigh Harrison, at one time, had replacement front floor sections.
Anyway, not too difficult, but expect it to take longer than it looks.
Dennis
--
Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Germantown, TN
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Jared & Stefanie Kohl
Rappahannock County, VA
1973 Painted Desert "Onslow"
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| Re: [GMCnet] Replacing sections of the subfloor on a 73 [message #180070 is a reply to message #180055] |
Mon, 13 August 2012 10:48 |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
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Plywood , liquid nails, deck screws and clamps. A good router and circular saw and you are good to go. I had to replace a large section of rear floor and the entire cockpit. I too laminated plywood and final shaped with a router. In the Pig the floor in back was 3/4 and screwed down with self drilling torx screws. I was able to find self tapping screws that were identical short of the drill tip at Tacoma Screw. I can dig up the part # if you are interested. You will be good with a router when you are done if you do the cockpit.
Sully
77 royale
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 13, 2012, at 6:59 AM, Jared & Stefanie Kohl <vacougfan@yahoo.com> wrote:
> That's actually exactly where it is bad... Under the front dinette seat and the ends of the cockpit step are wasted away to just about nothing. The PO just covered it with carpet.
>
>
> On the same note we may have an issue with a leak near the front of the coach. The PO swore up and down that he took care of all the leaks but he had it under cover for many years and we don't have a cover for it yet. So after a couple of heavy rain storms here we noticed some wet areas right near all the rotted floor areas.
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Dennis Sexton <dennisfsexton@aol.com>
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 9:33 AM
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Replacing sections of the subfloor on a 73
>
>
>
> werewilfs wrote on Mon, 13 August 2012 08:14
>> We decided to pull up the carpet on our 73 and discovered a couple of sections of floor that need to be replaced. Is there anything we need to know about replacing small sections of floor on these?
>>
>> I believe the 73 used 1" plywood and nothing else, correct? What kind of attachments are used and were they attached from the bottom? Any tips or tricks to removing the sections of floor and any gotchya's we need to watch out for?
>>
>> Thanks!
>
>
> Jared,
>
> I have only replace one very small section -- a corner under my propane tank. Not difficult -- large pop-type rivets a heavy glue held it in. While it was 1 inch plywood -- it had a number of steps routed into it so I made the replacement by laminating several layers together.
> The floors under the front seats are often bad -- and sometime the ends of the steps into the cockpit. There are some albums on the photo site that show replacement. Again, lots of routed channels to accomodate the aluminum floor struts. Leigh Harrison, at one time, had replacement front floor sections.
> Anyway, not too difficult, but expect it to take longer than it looks.
>
> Dennis
> --
> Dennis S
> 73 Painted Desert 230
> Germantown, TN
> _______________________________________________
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Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Replacing sections of the subfloor on a 73 [message #180083 is a reply to message #180070] |
Mon, 13 August 2012 11:40 |
werewilfs
Messages: 329
Registered: July 2012
Location: Rappahannock County, VA
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I'd appreciate any info you can send my way. I have used a router before... not proficient with it by any means but like anything the more you use things, the better you get at it.
________________________________
From: Todd Sullivan <sgltrac@gmail.com>
To: "gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org" <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 11:48 AM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Replacing sections of the subfloor on a 73
Plywood , liquid nails, deck screws and clamps. A good router and circular saw and you are good to go. I had to replace a large section of rear floor and the entire cockpit. I too laminated plywood and final shaped with a router. In the Pig the floor in back was 3/4 and screwed down with self drilling torx screws. I was able to find self tapping screws that were identical short of the drill tip at Tacoma Screw. I can dig up the part # if you are interested. You will be good with a router when you are done if you do the cockpit.
Sully
77 royale
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 13, 2012, at 6:59 AM, Jared & Stefanie Kohl <vacougfan@yahoo.com> wrote:
> That's actually exactly where it is bad... Under the front dinette seat and the ends of the cockpit step are wasted away to just about nothing. The PO just covered it with carpet.
>
>
> On the same note we may have an issue with a leak near the front of the coach. The PO swore up and down that he took care of all the leaks but he had it under cover for many years and we don't have a cover for it yet. So after a couple of heavy rain storms here we noticed some wet areas right near all the rotted floor areas.
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Dennis Sexton <dennisfsexton@aol.com>
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 9:33 AM
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Replacing sections of the subfloor on a 73
>
>
>
> werewilfs wrote on Mon, 13 August 2012 08:14
>> We decided to pull up the carpet on our 73 and discovered a couple of sections of floor that need to be replaced. Is there anything we need to know about replacing small sections of floor on these?
>>
>> I believe the 73 used 1" plywood and nothing else, correct? What kind of attachments are used and were they attached from the bottom? Any tips or tricks to removing the sections of floor and any gotchya's we need to watch out for?
>>
>> Thanks!
>
>
> Jared,
>
> I have only replace one very small section -- a corner under my propane tank. Not difficult -- large pop-type rivets a heavy glue held it in. While it was 1 inch plywood -- it had a number of steps routed into it so I made the replacement by laminating several layers together.
> The floors under the front seats are often bad -- and sometime the ends of the steps into the cockpit. There are some albums on the photo site that show replacement. Again, lots of routed channels to accomodate the aluminum floor struts. Leigh Harrison, at one time, had replacement front floor sections.
> Anyway, not too difficult, but expect it to take longer than it looks.
>
> Dennis
> --
> Dennis S
> 73 Painted Desert 230
> Germantown, TN
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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Jared & Stefanie Kohl
Rappahannock County, VA
1973 Painted Desert "Onslow"
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| Re: Replacing sections of the subfloor on a 73 [message #180112 is a reply to message #180048] |
Mon, 13 August 2012 14:55 |
GeorgeRud
Messages: 1380
Registered: February 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
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As leaks are a fact of life (they do show up from time to time), when I replaced my floor, I went to West Marine and got some of their epoxy to seal the new floor before putting down carpeting, etc.
This way, when (not if) it leaks, it shouldn't get through the epoxy coating and rot out the floor again.
George Rudawsky
Chicago, IL
75 Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Replacing sections of the subfloor on a 73 [message #180221 is a reply to message #180083] |
Tue, 14 August 2012 11:54 |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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If your original floor pieces are close to complete save them for templates. The floor ribbing in the cockpit is very intricate and the floor boards not rectangular but slightly tapered on the outside edge. I did all of mine with a 1/2" square bore tip cause that's what I had. A couple of quick clamp bar clamps and a guide board for the router and you are good to go. I primed the undersides with white primer sealer with the unplanned benefit being that when the panels are in but not fitting perfectly you can see where the conflict point is as it leaves gray from the aluminum on the white primer. Once the panels fit correctly I ran a bead of 3m moisture curing seam sealer in the joint and re riveted the panels down with similar aluminum rivits to the oem. Don't bother trying to re use the original holes in the framing as you will go insane trying to line everything back up.
Just dive in with the router. Plywood and glue is cheap.
Sully
77 royale
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 13, 2012, at 9:40 AM, Jared & Stefanie Kohl <vacougfan@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I'd appreciate any info you can send my way. I have used a router before... not proficient with it by any means but like anything the more you use things, the better you get at it.
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Todd Sullivan <sgltrac@gmail.com>
> To: "gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org" <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
> Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 11:48 AM
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Replacing sections of the subfloor on a 73
>
> Plywood , liquid nails, deck screws and clamps. A good router and circular saw and you are good to go. I had to replace a large section of rear floor and the entire cockpit. I too laminated plywood and final shaped with a router. In the Pig the floor in back was 3/4 and screwed down with self drilling torx screws. I was able to find self tapping screws that were identical short of the drill tip at Tacoma Screw. I can dig up the part # if you are interested. You will be good with a router when you are done if you do the cockpit.
>
> Sully
> 77 royale
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 13, 2012, at 6:59 AM, Jared & Stefanie Kohl <vacougfan@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> That's actually exactly where it is bad... Under the front dinette seat and the ends of the cockpit step are wasted away to just about nothing. The PO just covered it with carpet.
>>
>>
>> On the same note we may have an issue with a leak near the front of the coach. The PO swore up and down that he took care of all the leaks but he had it under cover for many years and we don't have a cover for it yet. So after a couple of heavy rain storms here we noticed some wet areas right near all the rotted floor areas.
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From: Dennis Sexton <dennisfsexton@aol.com>
>> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
>> Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 9:33 AM
>> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Replacing sections of the subfloor on a 73
>>
>>
>>
>> werewilfs wrote on Mon, 13 August 2012 08:14
>>> We decided to pull up the carpet on our 73 and discovered a couple of sections of floor that need to be replaced. Is there anything we need to know about replacing small sections of floor on these?
>>>
>>> I believe the 73 used 1" plywood and nothing else, correct? What kind of attachments are used and were they attached from the bottom? Any tips or tricks to removing the sections of floor and any gotchya's we need to watch out for?
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>
>>
>> Jared,
>>
>> I have only replace one very small section -- a corner under my propane tank. Not difficult -- large pop-type rivets a heavy glue held it in. While it was 1 inch plywood -- it had a number of steps routed into it so I made the replacement by laminating several layers together.
>> The floors under the front seats are often bad -- and sometime the ends of the steps into the cockpit. There are some albums on the photo site that show replacement. Again, lots of routed channels to accomodate the aluminum floor struts. Leigh Harrison, at one time, had replacement front floor sections.
>> Anyway, not too difficult, but expect it to take longer than it looks.
>>
>> Dennis
>> --
>> Dennis S
>> 73 Painted Desert 230
>> Germantown, TN
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> _______________________________________________
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> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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| Re: Replacing sections of the subfloor on a 73 [message #201380 is a reply to message #180048] |
Tue, 12 March 2013 09:21 |
xplorid
Messages: 213
Registered: February 2012
Location: Boise
Karma: 0
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After reading everything, it seems the easiest way to replace my cockpit floors on the '73 is to order 1/2 in marine grade plywood, double it up, and rout it as original.
But I am thinking that there is a missed opportunity for insulation in a spot that really needs it, so here's my plan for your comments -
1/2 inch foil backed styrofoam-type insulation sandwiched between 1/4 inch plywood, with heat insulator on the engine side of the compartment and noise barrier between the floor and carpet.
I also think the plywood, if triple coated with primer/paint, need not be marine grade or even exterior grade plywood.
Any observations or experience out there?
Also, if you are interested:
The heat and noise insulators are from Second Skin Audio - Heat Wave Pro and Luxury Liner Pro - which I used in my 67 Firebird convertible and which made a dramatic difference in heat and noise. Not cheap, but really engineered for the job.
I will also use the opportunity to run the insulation up the front of the cockpit area as far up the dash as I can without removing it, and to use another Second Skin product (like dynamat) to coat the inside of the body panel next to the driver and passenger seat - there is nothing behind the side panels now, and that has to be a source of noise, heat, and vibration.
1974/94 GMCII by Explorer
Manny 6.5 TD Al radiator
1 ton front 4 bags back
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| Re: Replacing sections of the subfloor on a 73 [message #201382 is a reply to message #180048] |
Tue, 12 March 2013 09:39 |
rcjordan
Messages: 1913
Registered: October 2012
Location: Elizabeth City, North Car...
Karma: 1
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>experience
I've done similar in marine applications using West System epoxy. It has held up for years. Even with epoxy, when I make my sandwich, I use sheet metal screws or deck screws and grind them off flush before a finish coat of epoxy. That's going to be a little more difficult with 1/4" plywood. Perhaps add some ribs.
Watch out for the foil-backed foam, much of the commonly available stuff is pretty flammable.
SOLD 77 Royale Coachmen Side Dry Bath
76 Birchaven Coachmen Side Wet Bath
76 Eleganza
Elizabeth City, NC
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| Re: [GMCnet] Replacing sections of the subfloor on a 73 [message #201388 is a reply to message #201380] |
Tue, 12 March 2013 10:17 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Jeff,
Sounds like you've got a good plan -- except for that non-exterior plywood.
If you think you'll be able to keep the cockpit floor from ever getting
wet, think again. The cockpit windows, windshield included, WILL leak at
some time in the future. Use exterior plywood and seal it well, perhaps
with fiberglass.
JMHO,
Ken H.
On Tue, Mar 12, 2013 at 10:21 AM, jeff sugheir wrote:
>
>
> After reading everything, it seems the easiest way to replace my cockpit
> floors on the '73 is to order 1/2 in marine grade plywood, double it up,
> and rout it as original.
>
> But I am thinking that there is a missed opportunity for insulation in a
> spot that really needs it, so here's my plan for your comments -
>
> 1/2 inch foil backed styrofoam-type insulation sandwiched between 1/4 inch
> plywood, with heat insulator on the engine side of the compartment and
> noise barrier between the floor and carpet.
>
> I also think the plywood, if triple coated with primer/paint, need not be
> marine grade or even exterior grade plywood.
>
> Any observations or experience out there?
> ...
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Ken Henderson
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www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: Replacing sections of the subfloor on a 73 [message #201394 is a reply to message #180048] |
Tue, 12 March 2013 11:02 |
xplorid
Messages: 213
Registered: February 2012
Location: Boise
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Thanks for the feedback. I will, of course, use ext grade plywood. I remember reading the post about the paint on bedliner, and my thought was to use it after installation on the underside, before gluing up the heat insulation.
Part of the charm of living in Boise is its remoteness. The nearest West Marine dealer is an 8 hour drive from here, so I may look at alternative brands or use the fiberglass method.
Help me, I am addicted to this machine.
1974/94 GMCII by Explorer
Manny 6.5 TD Al radiator
1 ton front 4 bags back
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| Re: Replacing sections of the subfloor on a 73 [message #201411 is a reply to message #201380] |
Tue, 12 March 2013 13:21 |
 |
Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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| xplorid wrote on Tue, 12 March 2013 10:21 |
After reading everything, it seems the easiest way to replace my cockpit floors on the '73 is to order 1/2 in marine grade plywood, double it up, and rout it as original.
But I am thinking that there is a missed opportunity for insulation in a spot that really needs it, so here's my plan for your comments -
1/2 inch foil backed styrofoam-type insulation sandwiched between 1/4 inch plywood, with heat insulator on the engine side of the compartment and noise barrier between the floor and carpet.
I also think the plywood, if triple coated with primer/paint, need not be marine grade or even exterior grade plywood.
Any observations or experience out there?
Also, if you are interested:
The heat and noise insulators are from Second Skin Audio - Heat Wave Pro and Luxury Liner Pro - which I used in my 67 Firebird convertible and which made a dramatic difference in heat and noise. Not cheap, but really engineered for the job.
I will also use the opportunity to run the insulation up the front of the cockpit area as far up the dash as I can without removing it, and to use another Second Skin product (like dynamat) to coat the inside of the body panel next to the driver and passenger seat - there is nothing behind the side panels now, and that has to be a source of noise, heat, and vibration.
|
Jeff,
I suggest that you learn a little more about the materials you intend to use. The classes of plywood are not as simple as you may think, but you had better understand what you want to buy.
Plywood grades are thickness, surface quality and manufacturing grade:
Thickness are changing and many places sell 1/2 that is really 12mm so if you need to match old material, you had better measure it before you buy it.
Surfaces are:
A - Cabinet finishable,
B - smooth paintable,
C - solid surface with no holes and
D - you have got to be kidding
Manufactured starts as-
No-spec - water soluble adhesive and what ever wood they can fit in the press.
Exterior is much the same as material, but they use a thermoset (waterproof) laminating adhesive.
Marine grade is always thermoset adhesive, but the big difference is that there are no voids allowed in the core and it typically is AB or BC surface.
Don't even think of aircraft.
West Marine has NOTHING to do with West Epoxy.
If you are going to use any epoxy, West is worth the extra money for the support you will get from them. Get the books and catalogs first and figure out what you really think you want to do. West Epoxy and products can be ordered on the web. If you think about buying any - GET THE PUMPS..
I used to buy their stuff in the 5gal size and use a couple a year.
The laminated floor you are suggesting will be much less rigid than you might like. I would have to suggest some better core for the lamination than styrofoam. Any foam core lamination builds I have done were disappointing - light, but still more flexible than I had hoped.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: Replacing sections of the subfloor on a 73 [message #201414 is a reply to message #201411] |
Tue, 12 March 2013 14:20 |
tphipps
Messages: 3005
Registered: August 2004
Location: Spanish Fort, AL
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Your front cockpit leak source might be the clearance lights. Water getting behind them hits the inside of the plastic over the cockpit area, and from there, no telling where it goes. Do not use silicon to seal the screw heads, will make for a difficult later repair. Also, the gaskets maybe gone or crushed beyond usage. JmK has double thickness gaskets available. Done one at a time, and careful with the wires. While you do this repair, consider replacing the OEM lamps with Maxima LED clearance lights. They are very bright, better than the bulbs.
Tom, MS II
PS My worst leak (so far) was where P.O. decided that he needed a CB antenna on the Roof. He drilled a hole straight into the roof to run the coax. Lousy idea.
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
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| Re: Replacing sections of the subfloor on a 73 [message #201416 is a reply to message #201414] |
Tue, 12 March 2013 14:37 |
xplorid
Messages: 213
Registered: February 2012
Location: Boise
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Well, the leak source is at least from the toll windows, which I am also restoring the rubber on, but perhaps not the only source. Matt - thanks for posting the plywood tutorial, that helps me and others who will look at this later.
The sandwich idea is weak I guess, because the insulation value of the core is pretty minimal apparently, inflammable to some degree, and may not be substantial enough.
Based on what I can see from the removed floor, the routing is 1/4 inch below the frame members, and 1/4 inch above to fit over the frame members. So now I am thinking 1/2" marine grade plywood (I found some locally) for the 3 pieces that fit between the frame members under the driver, with 1/4 inch single piece top fastened to them, and the heat shield insulation on the bottom side. That ignores the 1/4 in rout on the bottom of each of the 3 pieces (3 on each side of the cockpit) cause it's gonna be seam sealed and covered with the insulation.
I think the whole cockpit will require a single 4X8 sheet of 1/2 and one 1/4 in.
1974/94 GMCII by Explorer
Manny 6.5 TD Al radiator
1 ton front 4 bags back
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