Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Broken exhaust manifold bolt(s)
| [GMCnet] Broken exhaust manifold bolt(s) [message #178986] |
Sat, 04 August 2012 15:40  |
Mike Teets
Messages: 299
Registered: January 2004
Location: Dublin, OH
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I am attempting to pull my exhaust manifolds as they are badly leaking
above the center two ports. I soaked them in kroil. They look to be the
OEM bolts except for some grade 8's on one of the outside ears. I thought
things were going well as I could just tighten them a little with a bump
then back them out. Didn't take much pressure at all. Then I got to the
passenger side. The bolt just rear of the two ports broke off under just a
bit of pressure. The bolt above the two ports is also stubborn. It is
feeling like it will break off as well.
Can I drill these out with the head in place or do I have to pull the head?
The only time I have done this before is with the engine out on a stand
and it was 30 years ago. Any advice?
Mike,
77 PB, 403
Dublin, Ohio
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| Re: [GMCnet] Broken exhaust manifold bolt(s) [message #178997 is a reply to message #178986] |
Sat, 04 August 2012 16:58  |
Mike Teets
Messages: 299
Registered: January 2004
Location: Dublin, OH
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Well, as expected the center bolt broke right at the head of the bolt. I
thought it was turning back and forth so I just eased it in both
directions. Evidently it was just sheering off. Both bolts seemed to be
rusted a little thin around the area where they broke.
On Sat, Aug 4, 2012 at 4:40 PM, Mike Teets <teamteets@gmail.com> wrote:
> I am attempting to pull my exhaust manifolds as they are badly leaking
> above the center two ports. I soaked them in kroil. They look to be the
> OEM bolts except for some grade 8's on one of the outside ears. I thought
> things were going well as I could just tighten them a little with a bump
> then back them out. Didn't take much pressure at all. Then I got to the
> passenger side. The bolt just rear of the two ports broke off under just a
> bit of pressure. The bolt above the two ports is also stubborn. It is
> feeling like it will break off as well.
>
> Can I drill these out with the head in place or do I have to pull the
> head? The only time I have done this before is with the engine out on a
> stand and it was 30 years ago. Any advice?
>
> Mike,
> 77 PB, 403
> Dublin, Ohio
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] Broken exhaust manifold bolt(s) [message #179015 is a reply to message #178986] |
Sat, 04 August 2012 20:32 |
Dennis sch
Messages: 58
Registered: July 2012
Location: United States
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that happened to me years ago when I bought my GMC and I took off the manifold and cleaned it and the good bolt holes then bolted back on without the gasket and drilled out the broken bolts and re taped them no problem
| Mike Teets wrote on Sat, 04 August 2012 15:40 |
I am attempting to pull my exhaust manifolds as they are badly leaking
above the center two ports. I soaked them in kroil. They look to be the
OEM bolts except for some grade 8's on one of the outside ears. I thought
things were going well as I could just tighten them a little with a bump
then back them out. Didn't take much pressure at all. Then I got to the
passenger side. The bolt just rear of the two ports broke off under just a
bit of pressure. The bolt above the two ports is also stubborn. It is
feeling like it will break off as well.
Can I drill these out with the head in place or do I have to pull the head?
The only time I have done this before is with the engine out on a stand
and it was 30 years ago. Any advice?
Mike,
77 PB, 403
Dublin, Ohio
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Dennis S
Panama City FL
73 260
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| Re: [GMCnet] Broken exhaust manifold bolt(s) [message #179016 is a reply to message #179015] |
Sat, 04 August 2012 20:47 |
Mike Teets
Messages: 299
Registered: January 2004
Location: Dublin, OH
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Thanks for the idea Dennis. I was sitting here thinking of how to make a
drilling jig to keep it straight. Duh, never considered that the manifold
is a jig!
Mike
On Sat, Aug 4, 2012 at 9:32 PM, Dennis Schwinn <ds68camaro@knology.net>wrote:
>
>
> that happened to me years ago when I bought my GMC and I took off the
> manifold and cleaned it and the good bolt holes then bolted back on without
> the gasket and drilled out the broken bolts and re taped them no problem
>
>
>
> Mike Teets wrote on Sat, 04 August 2012 15:40
> > I am attempting to pull my exhaust manifolds as they are badly leaking
> > above the center two ports. I soaked them in kroil. They look to be
> the
> > OEM bolts except for some grade 8's on one of the outside ears. I
> thought
> > things were going well as I could just tighten them a little with a bump
> > then back them out. Didn't take much pressure at all. Then I got to
> the
> > passenger side. The bolt just rear of the two ports broke off under
> just a
> > bit of pressure. The bolt above the two ports is also stubborn. It is
> > feeling like it will break off as well.
> >
> > Can I drill these out with the head in place or do I have to pull the
> head?
> > The only time I have done this before is with the engine out on a stand
> > and it was 30 years ago. Any advice?
> >
> > Mike,
> > 77 PB, 403
> > Dublin, Ohio
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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77 Palm Beach, 260, 403
Dublin, OH
http://teamteets.com/gmc/
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| Re: [GMCnet] Broken exhaust manifold bolt(s) [message #179020 is a reply to message #179019] |
Sat, 04 August 2012 21:10 |
Mike Teets
Messages: 299
Registered: January 2004
Location: Dublin, OH
Karma: 0
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I have one that has a protruding stud. I will try to mig weld a washer/nut
to it as you suggest although my welding skills are suspect at best. The
other broke just below the surface. I will be drilling that one.
On Sat, Aug 4, 2012 at 10:06 PM, Wally Anderson <wallyand@aim.com> wrote:
>
>
> Mike Teets wrote on Sat, 04 August 2012 16:58
> > Well, as expected the center bolt broke right at the head of the bolt. I
> > thought it was turning back and forth so I just eased it in both
> > directions. Evidently it was just sheering off. Both bolts seemed to be
> > rusted a little thin around the area where they broke.
> >
> > On Sat, Aug 4, 2012 at 4:40 PM, Mike Teets <teamteets@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > I am attempting to pull my exhaust manifolds as they are badly leaking
> > > above the center two ports. I soaked them in kroil. They look to be
> the
> > > OEM bolts except for some grade 8's on one of the outside ears. I
> thought
> > > things were going well as I could just tighten them a little with a
> bump
> > > then back them out. Didn't take much pressure at all. Then I got
> to the
> > > passenger side. The bolt just rear of the two ports broke off under
> just a
> > > bit of pressure. The bolt above the two ports is also stubborn. It
> is
> > > feeling like it will break off as well.
> > >
> > > Can I drill these out with the head in place or do I have to pull the
> > > head? The only time I have done this before is with the engine out
> on a
> > > stand and it was 30 years ago. Any advice?
> > >
> > > Mike,
> > > 77 PB, 403
> > > Dublin, Ohio
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
> You might try stick welding a washer to what's left of the bolt and then a
> weld a nut to the washer. The heat of welding will help loosen the bond and
> the nut something to turn with. Seems kind of brutal but it does work. I'd
> certainly try this in place first. I feel your pain.
> --
> Wally Anderson
> 1975 Glenbrook
> Megasquirt 455 port injection science project-On the road 16,468 miles
> Omaha Nebraska
> Greater Midwest Classics
> GMCES
> http://wallyandsue.blogspot.com/
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http://teamteets.com/gmc/
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| Re: [GMCnet] Broken exhaust manifold bolt(s) [message #179027 is a reply to message #179020] |
Sat, 04 August 2012 21:57 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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As a caution, though highly unlikely to be relevant, let me tell y'all a
related anecdote as related to me by the subject: A few years back, a now
deceased favorite-of-everyone Dixielander, while installing his Cad500,
broke off an exhaust bolt. After drilling the bolt out, he was using a tap
to chase the threads and somehow broke THAT off in the head.
While using a punch to back the broken tap out, he felt something strike
his cheek but thought no more about it until much later.
When he started the engine after completing the installation, including
putting in the spark plugs, it made an awful racket. He immediately shut
it down and began diagnosing the problem, with little success. Finally, in
desperation before pulling the just-installed engine, he bought a good
quality bore scope. With that, he eventually found in one cylinder a tiny
fragment of metal. Somehow, he was able to extract it and, to his
satisfaction, identify it as the piece of tap which broke off and struck
him on the cheek before bouncing back into the spark plug hole.
He was lucky, as the particle lodged in the cylinder head and never scored
the cylinder wall, according to the bore scope. The engine ran very well
before it was parked, where it still rests, in his garage -- with probably
less than 1000 miles on it.
Mike, put the spark plugs in NOW. :-)
Ken H.
On Sat, Aug 4, 2012 at 10:10 PM, Mike Teets <teamteets@gmail.com> wrote:
> I have one that has a protruding stud. I will try to mig weld a washer/nut
> to it as you suggest although my welding skills are suspect at best. The
> other broke just below the surface. I will be drilling that one.
> ...
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Ken Henderson
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www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Broken exhaust manifold bolt(s) [message #179031 is a reply to message #179027] |
Sat, 04 August 2012 22:20 |
Mike Teets
Messages: 299
Registered: January 2004
Location: Dublin, OH
Karma: 0
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Thanks Ken! They are in but good to keep in mind as I was considering
replacing them. I know what order to do that now.
On Sat, Aug 4, 2012 at 10:57 PM, Ken Henderson <hend4800@bellsouth.net>wrote:
> As a caution, though highly unlikely to be relevant, let me tell y'all a
> related anecdote as related to me by the subject: A few years back, a now
> deceased favorite-of-everyone Dixielander, while installing his Cad500,
> broke off an exhaust bolt. After drilling the bolt out, he was using a tap
> to chase the threads and somehow broke THAT off in the head.
>
> While using a punch to back the broken tap out, he felt something strike
> his cheek but thought no more about it until much later.
>
> When he started the engine after completing the installation, including
> putting in the spark plugs, it made an awful racket. He immediately shut
> it down and began diagnosing the problem, with little success. Finally, in
> desperation before pulling the just-installed engine, he bought a good
> quality bore scope. With that, he eventually found in one cylinder a tiny
> fragment of metal. Somehow, he was able to extract it and, to his
> satisfaction, identify it as the piece of tap which broke off and struck
> him on the cheek before bouncing back into the spark plug hole.
>
> He was lucky, as the particle lodged in the cylinder head and never scored
> the cylinder wall, according to the bore scope. The engine ran very well
> before it was parked, where it still rests, in his garage -- with probably
> less than 1000 miles on it.
>
> Mike, put the spark plugs in NOW. :-)
>
> Ken H.
>
>
>
> On Sat, Aug 4, 2012 at 10:10 PM, Mike Teets <teamteets@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > I have one that has a protruding stud. I will try to mig weld a
> washer/nut
> > to it as you suggest although my welding skills are suspect at best.
> The
> > other broke just below the surface. I will be drilling that one.
>
>
>
> > ...
> _______________________________________________
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http://teamteets.com/gmc/
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| Re: [GMCnet] Broken exhaust manifold bolt(s) [message #179033 is a reply to message #179020] |
Sat, 04 August 2012 22:31 |
Keith V
Messages: 2337
Registered: March 2008
Location: Mounds View,MN
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| Mike Teets wrote on Sat, 04 August 2012 21:10 |
I have one that has a protruding stud. I will try to mig weld a washer/nut
to it as you suggest although my welding skills are suspect at best. The
other broke just below the surface. I will be drilling that one.
|
no no no!
the right way to do it is to weld a nut to the broken off bolt.
It actually works best if the bolt is flush with or below the surface!
Use a nut that has the same inner diameter as the bolt you're trying to remove.
Use thick wire and lots of heat, turn it up all the way baby!
Let the weld cool completely before trying to get the bolt out.
have a few nuts and just keep welding them on. It will come out!
It works a LOT better than drilling and tapping!
Pictures?
Of course!
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5185-t-skirt-bolt.html
Keith Vasilakes
Mounds View. MN
75 ex Royale GMC
ask me about MicroLevel
Cell, 763-732-3419
My427v8@hotmail.com
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| Re: [GMCnet] Broken exhaust manifold bolt(s) [message #179044 is a reply to message #179033] |
Sun, 05 August 2012 00:18 |
Mitch
Messages: 272
Registered: May 2009
Location: Tacoma, Wa
Karma: 0
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Just recently I removed my manifolds to put on new headers. The last bolt on the passenger side broke just under it's head. After trying a couple other things, I ended up super heating the bolt with an acetylene torch. I heated it twice and then was able to unscrew it using a small pipe wrench. The pipe wrench has the advantage of the more you push on it, the tighter it gets. Any way, heat the bolt, then let it cool before putting pressure on it. Hope that helps.| Keith V wrote on Sat, 04 August 2012 20:31 |
| Mike Teets wrote on Sat, 04 August 2012 21:10 |
I have one that has a protruding stud. I will try to mig weld a washer/nut
to it as you suggest although my welding skills are suspect at best. The
other broke just below the surface. I will be drilling that one.
|
no no no!
the right way to do it is to weld a nut to the broken off bolt.
It actually works best if the bolt is flush with or below the surface!
Use a nut that has the same inner diameter as the bolt you're trying to remove.
Use thick wire and lots of heat, turn it up all the way baby!
Let the weld cool completely before trying to get the bolt out.
have a few nuts and just keep welding them on. It will come out!
It works a LOT better than drilling and tapping!
Pictures?
Of course!
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5185-t-skirt-bolt.html
|
Mitch
Tacoma, Wa.
'80 Spitfire
'03 Windstar
'77 Jaguar XJ6-C
X(very)'76 PB 26 "The Beast"
Where it rains, always.
It's wet, No sun, Gray.
Go to Oregon.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Broken exhaust manifold bolt(s) [message #179060 is a reply to message #179044] |
Sun, 05 August 2012 08:49 |
Arthur Mansfield
Messages: 290
Registered: April 2010
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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When I got my RV it had both headers leaking. I broke off the center bolt below the surface of the head. I tried an easy out and broke it off. I then drilled out the easy out and the bolt. I would have gone to a larger bolt but I had made a mess of the hole. I cleaned up the hole and tried to insert a helicoil which did not work. The head broke out when I taped for the helicoil. To get back on the road I welded a bolt in until I got a new head. Used the manifold as guide to tack weld the bolt then finished welding when I took the manifold off. I was very lucky the bolt held until I got a new head as I am not much of welder and had never welded cast iron before or since.
I got a new head to replace the head. I had the new head redone at local machine shop and replaced the head (bad mistake the shop did a bad valve job and the head came off after one trip of about 1400 miles with a leaking valve).
I could go on with my head problems that lasted for more than three years but it is beyond the thread. It would be a list of what not to do with heads.
Art & Doris
76 EL
Decatur AL
On Aug 5, 2012, at 12:18 AM, Mitch wrote:
>
>
> Just recently I removed my manifolds to put on new headers. The last bolt on the passenger side broke just under it's head. After trying a couple other things, I ended up super heating the bolt with an acetylene torch. I heated it twice and then was able to unscrew it using a small pipe wrench. The pipe wrench has the advantage of the more you push on it, the tighter it gets. Any way, heat the bolt, then let it cool before putting pressure on it. Hope that helps.Keith V wrote on Sat, 04 August 2012 20:31
>> Mike Teets wrote on Sat, 04 August 2012 21:10
>>> I have one that has a protruding stud. I will try to mig weld a washer/nut
>>> to it as you suggest although my welding skills are suspect at best. The
>>> other broke just below the surface. I will be drilling that one.
>>
>>
>> no no no!
>>
>> the right way to do it is to weld a nut to the broken off bolt.
>> It actually works best if the bolt is flush with or below the surface!
>>
>> Use a nut that has the same inner diameter as the bolt you're trying to remove.
>> Use thick wire and lots of heat, turn it up all the way baby!
>>
>> Let the weld cool completely before trying to get the bolt out.
>> have a few nuts and just keep welding them on. It will come out!
>>
>> It works a LOT better than drilling and tapping!
>> Pictures?
>> Of course!
>> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5185-t-skirt-bolt.html
>
>
> --
> Mitch
> Tacoma, Wa.
> '80 Spitfire
> '03 Windstar
> X(very)'76 PB 26 "The Beast"
> Where it rains, always.
>
> It's wet, No sun, Gray.
> Go to Oregon.
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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| Re: [GMCnet] Broken exhaust manifold bolt(s) [message #179062 is a reply to message #179033] |
Sun, 05 August 2012 09:40 |
Mike Teets
Messages: 299
Registered: January 2004
Location: Dublin, OH
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Keith, I am not sure I have the skill to pool the weld in the flush bolt
with it upside down while leaning over the frame. I will try the stud
first and see how it goes.
I also just removed my t-skirt bolts to put on the Sullybuilt bags. One
was quite stubborn and I was lucky it didn't break.
On Sat, Aug 4, 2012 at 11:31 PM, Keith V <my427v8@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Mike Teets wrote on Sat, 04 August 2012 21:10
> > I have one that has a protruding stud. I will try to mig weld a
> washer/nut
> > to it as you suggest although my welding skills are suspect at best.
> The
> > other broke just below the surface. I will be drilling that one.
>
>
> no no no!
>
> the right way to do it is to weld a nut to the broken off bolt.
> It actually works best if the bolt is flush with or below the surface!
>
> Use a nut that has the same inner diameter as the bolt you're trying to
> remove.
> Use thick wire and lots of heat, turn it up all the way baby!
>
> Let the weld cool completely before trying to get the bolt out.
> have a few nuts and just keep welding them on. It will come out!
>
> It works a LOT better than drilling and tapping!
> Pictures?
> Of course!
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5185-t-skirt-bolt.html
>
> --
> Keith
> 69 Vette
> 29 Dodge
> 75 Royale GMC
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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Mike, GMCing since 2002
77 Palm Beach, 260, 403
Dublin, OH
http://teamteets.com/gmc/
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| Re: [GMCnet] Broken exhaust manifold bolt(s) [message #179135 is a reply to message #179062] |
Sun, 05 August 2012 21:01 |
Keith V
Messages: 2337
Registered: March 2008
Location: Mounds View,MN
Karma: 0
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| Mike Teets wrote on Sun, 05 August 2012 09:40 |
Keith, I am not sure I have the skill to pool the weld in the flush bolt
with it upside down while leaning over the frame. I will try the stud
first and see how it goes.
|
It's really not that hard.
you use big flux core wire, like .033
Turn it up all they way
( remember to reverse polarity for flux core)
Hold the the nut over the broken off bolt with a pliers
stick the mig wire straight into the hole of the nut
Pull trigger..wait
remove pliers
check to see if nut is full of metal
If not repeat
Let cool
wiggle and turn nut out
If the nut breaks off, repeat
compared to drilling and tapping it's 1000 times easier
Keith Vasilakes
Mounds View. MN
75 ex Royale GMC
ask me about MicroLevel
Cell, 763-732-3419
My427v8@hotmail.com
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| Re: [GMCnet] Broken exhaust manifold bolt(s) [message #179878 is a reply to message #179135] |
Sat, 11 August 2012 17:46 |
Mike Teets
Messages: 299
Registered: January 2004
Location: Dublin, OH
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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So far, this method worked great to get the broken bolts (all four) from
the manifold at the donut flange. I am having no luck on the engine
block. I started with an exposed stud and am now down to a nub against
the block. It has broke at the nut 10 times now. Giving up for the day.
On Sun, Aug 5, 2012 at 10:01 PM, Keith V <my427v8@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Mike Teets wrote on Sun, 05 August 2012 09:40
> > Keith, I am not sure I have the skill to pool the weld in the flush bolt
> > with it upside down while leaning over the frame. I will try the stud
> > first and see how it goes.
>
>
> It's really not that hard.
> you use big flux core wire, like .033
> Turn it up all they way
> ( remember to reverse polarity for flux core)
>
> Hold the the nut over the broken off bolt with a pliers
> stick the mig wire straight into the hole of the nut
> Pull trigger..wait
> remove pliers
> check to see if nut is full of metal
> If not repeat
>
> Let cool
> wiggle and turn nut out
>
> If the nut breaks off, repeat
>
> compared to drilling and tapping it's 1000 times easier
> --
> Keith
> 69 Vette
> 29 Dodge
> 75 Royale GMC
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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Mike, GMCing since 2002
77 Palm Beach, 260, 403
Dublin, OH
http://teamteets.com/gmc/
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| Re: [GMCnet] Broken exhaust manifold bolt(s) [message #179907 is a reply to message #179878] |
Sat, 11 August 2012 22:09 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Sir" 4 of the 5 exhaust bolts in the head are thru holes and can be drilled and tapped fairly easy. Only the center one is a blind hole. If you use a Left hand drill bit it might grab and thread out before you need to tap. Take your time and make sure to file or grind the bolt flat and use a center punch and drill center with smaller bit first. Worst case senero woulb be to drill out and use a longer bolt and nut on the 4 outside ones and not even use the center bolt as recomended by some here.
| Mike Teets wrote on Sat, 11 August 2012 18:46 |
So far, this method worked great to get the broken bolts (all four) from
the manifold at the donut flange. I am having no luck on the engine
block. I started with an exposed stud and am now down to a nub against
the block. It has broke at the nut 10 times now. Giving up for the day.
On Sun, Aug 5, 2012 at 10:01 PM, Keith V <my427v8@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Mike Teets wrote on Sun, 05 August 2012 09:40
> > Keith, I am not sure I have the skill to pool the weld in the flush bolt
> > with it upside down while leaning over the frame. I will try the stud
> > first and see how it goes.
>
>
> It's really not that hard.
> you use big flux core wire, like .033
> Turn it up all they way
> ( remember to reverse polarity for flux core)
>
> Hold the the nut over the broken off bolt with a pliers
> stick the mig wire straight into the hole of the nut
> Pull trigger..wait
> remove pliers
> check to see if nut is full of metal
> If not repeat
>
> Let cool
> wiggle and turn nut out
>
> If the nut breaks off, repeat
>
> compared to drilling and tapping it's 1000 times easier
> --
> Keith
> 69 Vette
> 29 Dodge
> 75 Royale GMC
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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| Re: [GMCnet] Broken exhaust manifold bolt(s) [message #179934 is a reply to message #179907] |
Sun, 12 August 2012 09:05 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Also, since those 4 outside bolts are exposed to the spark plug cavities,
it's easy and beneficial to put a pool of penetrating oil in those cavities
for a few days before trying to remove the bolts. Given long enough, the
oil will creep through the rust & help.
Ken H.
On Sat, Aug 11, 2012 at 11:09 PM, Charles Boyd wrote:
> Sir" 4 of the 5 exhaust bolts in the head are thru holes and can be
> drilled and tapped fairly easy. Only the center one is a blind hole. If
> you use a Left hand drill bit it might grab and thread out before you need
> to tap. ...
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Broken exhaust manifold bolt(s) [message #183048 is a reply to message #179907] |
Mon, 03 September 2012 21:05 |
Mike Teets
Messages: 299
Registered: January 2004
Location: Dublin, OH
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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The exhaust manifold saga continued today. I had previously removed the 4 broken bolts from the donut flange. The welding nuts trick worked like a charm. It seems like magic! Then I tried the same method on the two remaining broken bolts on the right side head. It didn't work and I went through about 15 nuts trying.
Next I took a break and collected the parts to reassemble hoping that would create good karma. Today I jumped back in. Had a set of titanium drill bits, a tap, some cutting oil. Ready to go.
First, the oil cooler was in the way. I drained the oil and removed the adapter from the filter and strapped it up out of the way. Started on the 2nd bolt from the back. Drilled a small pilot hole through the center of the broken bolt with a bushing on the manifold as a guide. Worked great. Used increasing drill sizes until up the required size. Then tapped the hole with a bit of cutting oil. Great! This is easy...
Bad karma returns.
Started the center bolt above the 2 ports in the center. It was hard! Most of the bolts had been replaced with grade 8's at some point but this one seemed like a grade 8 squared. Finally got the pilot hole through the center. Next size up going a bit slowly, almost there... and bam, bit broke off flush with the top of the hole. Hmmmm, what is harder than titanium?
Did some searching and folks suggested the welding technique again to soften the titanium bit. uhhh, ok, another chance to play with big boy sparklers. Tried a couple of times just to see as some said the drilling loosens the bolt. Nope. Grind flat, center punch, start drilling with the new $30 cobalt bits. After 3 hours of drilling, and another trip to get fresh small bits, I think I am mostly through the old bit. Now try stepping up in bit sizes being extra careful... Bam, cobalt broke just like the previous.
I think I am down to three choices. (1) Put the dang thing together and leave off that center bolt as some have suggested. (2) Weld a stud to the center bolt. (3) Pull the head and get this right before I drift outside the bolt and screw it up for good. (4) Sell the GMC and free up some garage space.
After a long day, 4 is tempting. But I think I will do 2 for now and see how it works. I will do 3 if it doesn't work or I have extra time over the winter.
Mike, GMCing since 2002
77 Palm Beach, 260, 403
Dublin, OH
http://teamteets.com/gmc/
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| Re: [GMCnet] Broken exhaust manifold bolt(s) [message #183059 is a reply to message #183048] |
Mon, 03 September 2012 23:03 |
Keith V
Messages: 2337
Registered: March 2008
Location: Mounds View,MN
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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well one trick to get taps, bolt extractors and hardened tools out of holes is to use a hammer drill with a masonry bit.
It beats the heck out of the hard tool ,,,
worth a shot
Keith Vasilakes
Mounds View. MN
75 ex Royale GMC
ask me about MicroLevel
Cell, 763-732-3419
My427v8@hotmail.com
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| Re: [GMCnet] Broken exhaust manifold bolt(s) [message #183060 is a reply to message #183048] |
Mon, 03 September 2012 23:08 |
crash24
Messages: 79
Registered: February 2012
Location: Vancouver, B.C.
Karma: 0
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Member |
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I am surprised no one has suggested forgetting the center bolts. Mine has been running for 5 years with no center bolts.
If you want to get the center bolts out next time, drill an 1/8" vertical hole down into the head at about 3/4" in from the manifold face, right inline with the bolt. Drip penetrating oil into the hole or inject it with a syringe. Don't use WD-40, it is not penetrating oil. Smack the bolt on the end several times before trying to remove it. Leave it soak for 2-3 days. Smack it each day.
Welding nuts on has always worked for me, but I didn't even bother with the center bolt in either head. Broke them off and forgot them. All they do is cock the manifold, leaving a gap at the bottom and make the gaskets leak. If you feel you must use these center bolts, put them in last and just snug them up to 15lbs.
| Mike Teets wrote on Mon, 03 September 2012 19:05 |
The exhaust manifold saga continued today. I had previously removed the 4 broken bolts from the donut flange. The welding nuts trick worked like a charm. It seems like magic! Then I tried the same method on the two remaining broken bolts on the right side head. It didn't work and I went through about 15 nuts trying.
Next I took a break and collected the parts to reassemble hoping that would create good karma. Today I jumped back in. Had a set of titanium drill bits, a tap, some cutting oil. Ready to go.
First, the oil cooler was in the way. I drained the oil and removed the adapter from the filter and strapped it up out of the way. Started on the 2nd bolt from the back. Drilled a small pilot hole through the center of the broken bolt with a bushing on the manifold as a guide. Worked great. Used increasing drill sizes until up the required size. Then tapped the hole with a bit of cutting oil. Great! This is easy...
Bad karma returns.
Started the center bolt above the 2 ports in the center. It was hard! Most of the bolts had been replaced with grade 8's at some point but this one seemed like a grade 8 squared. Finally got the pilot hole through the center. Next size up going a bit slowly, almost there... and bam, bit broke off flush with the top of the hole. Hmmmm, what is harder than titanium?
Did some searching and folks suggested the welding technique again to soften the titanium bit. uhhh, ok, another chance to play with big boy sparklers. Tried a couple of times just to see as some said the drilling loosens the bolt. Nope. Grind flat, center punch, start drilling with the new $30 cobalt bits. After 3 hours of drilling, and another trip to get fresh small bits, I think I am mostly through the old bit. Now try stepping up in bit sizes being extra careful... Bam, cobalt broke just like the previous.
I think I am down to three choices. (1) Put the dang thing together and leave off that center bolt as some have suggested. (2) Weld a stud to the center bolt. (3) Pull the head and get this right before I drift outside the bolt and screw it up for good. (4) Sell the GMC and free up some garage space.
After a long day, 4 is tempting. But I think I will do 2 for now and see how it works. I will do 3 if it doesn't work or I have extra time over the winter.
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[Updated on: Mon, 03 September 2012 23:10] Report message to a moderator |
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