Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » HEI Ignition question
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| Re: HEI Ignition question [message #179069 is a reply to message #178970] |
Sun, 05 August 2012 11:10   |
roy1
Messages: 2126
Registered: July 2004
Location: Minden nevada
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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None that I'm aware of. make sure you are using heat conductive compound on the module and make sure the ground strap isn't missing from the coil. Also make sure the little contact in the center of the cap is in good condition.
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook
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| Re: [GMCnet] HEI Ignition question [message #179090 is a reply to message #179086] |
Sun, 05 August 2012 15:18 |
tphipps
Messages: 3005
Registered: August 2004
Location: Spanish Fort, AL
Karma: 9
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Tom, First thanks for helping me some many trips ago.
Sounds more like a vapor lock problem. Unless you pull a plug cap and do not see a spark, which is hard to do in this bright summer light, it may not be ignition. Be very careful with the HEI ignition, it can bite real hard. After you replace the ignition parts, the engine by this time has cooled enough for the vapor lock problem to go away, until the engine gets hot again, while traveling over the very hot roads that are heating your gas tanks and producing vapors. Just my thoughts on the subject.
It does sound as if you have covered the ignition part of the story very well.
I've been known to be wrong. Ask my child. ;-}
Tom Phipps, MS II
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
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| parts interchange book [message #179152 is a reply to message #179094] |
Sun, 05 August 2012 23:30 |
bukzin
Messages: 840
Registered: April 2004
Location: North California
Karma: 0
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[quote title=Robert Mueller wrote on Sun, 05 August 2012 13:30]Gary,
There's a fair few different names for the dizzies parts; trust this will clarify what I was talking about:
Ref Parts Book 78Z page 63:
Key 3 = Coil assembly (Ignition coil)
Key 16 = Module (Ignition module)
Key 18 = Pole piece & plate (Ignition sensor)
Regards,
Rob M.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
To whoever maintains the 'parts interchange booklet'
Robs info above (and more of the same) would be of huge help for some of us!
As in the computer/internet world, multiple names for the
same thing can really foul us up.
Bukzin
1977 Palm Beach
[Updated on: Sun, 05 August 2012 23:31] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: [GMCnet] HEI Ignition question [message #179154 is a reply to message #179086] |
Mon, 06 August 2012 00:56 |
George Beckman
Messages: 1085
Registered: October 2008
Location: Colfax, CA
Karma: 11
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| Tom Fort wrote on Sun, 05 August 2012 12:54 |
Sorry Robert, what I meant was that I wanted to know if there was a way of testing the components for condition ie like new or about to fail. For example, on a beach trip (135 miles one way), it drove fine going there. On the way back it started fine. I drove about 100 miles and it died on the interstate (flat ground). 15 minutes later it restarted. Then about 5 miles before I got home it died and that was it for several days. The problem was of course the distributor parts.
Tom
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This stall, start sequence sounds like module. I had one that would die and restart almost instantly if you turned the key off and then on. Then itmight run for two minutes or two hundred miles.
Coils often fail as they get warmer, but shutting off the ignition and restarting has never fixed one for me. When they begin to fail, they break down with heat in many cases and only cooling will revive it for a short time.
'74 Eleganza, SE, Howell + EBL
Best Wishes,
George
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| Re: [GMCnet] HEI Ignition question [message #179160 is a reply to message #179154] |
Mon, 06 August 2012 06:50 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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I've been VERY lucky with the ignition system, but my recent experience
with the internal connections of the HEI coil convinced me that everyone
should give a little attention to that part. On the Olds, especially, it's
very simple to unplug thed primary wire connections into the distributor
cap and remove the cover from the top of the cap. Don't have to do
anything to the plug wires. When you then remove the 4 screws holding the
coil in the cap, you can lift the coil and its connectors out. When you
do, you'll discover that the conductivity of one of the connectors depends
upon the security of the coil in the cap -- and that connection may be in
BAD condition from RUST. Clean it up, add some NyGard or other connection
compound, and reduce the chances of coil problems.
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Mon, Aug 6, 2012 at 1:56 AM, George Beckman wrote:
>
> This stall, start sequence sounds like module. I had one that would die
> and restart almost instantly if you turned the key off and then on. Then
> itmight run for two minutes or two hundred miles.
>
> Coils often fail as they get warmer, but shutting off the ignition and
> restarting has never fixed one for me. When they begin to fail, they break
> down with heat in many cases and only cooling will revive it for a short
> time.
> --
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] HEI Ignition question [message #179168 is a reply to message #179160] |
Mon, 06 August 2012 08:08 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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also
Jerry Work, had a similar problem at the GMCWS casa rallly.
maybe he will jump in here and describe that
gene
On Mon, Aug 6, 2012 at 4:50 AM, Ken Henderson <hend4800@bellsouth.net>wrote:
> I've been VERY lucky with the ignition system, but my recent experience
> with the internal connections of the HEI coil convinced me that everyone
> should give a little attention to that part. On the Olds, especially, it's
> very simple to unplug thed primary wire connections into the distributor
> cap and remove the cover from the top of the cap. Don't have to do
> anything to the plug wires. When you then remove the 4 screws holding the
> coil in the cap, you can lift the coil and its connectors out. When you
> do, you'll discover that the conductivity of one of the connectors depends
> upon the security of the coil in the cap -- and that connection may be in
> BAD condition from RUST. Clean it up, add some NyGard or other connection
> compound, and reduce the chances of coil problems.
>
> Ken H.
> Americus, GA
> '76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
> www.gmcwipersetc.com
>
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 6, 2012 at 1:56 AM, George Beckman wrote:
>
> >
> > This stall, start sequence sounds like module. I had one that would die
> > and restart almost instantly if you turned the key off and then on. Then
> > itmight run for two minutes or two hundred miles.
> >
> > Coils often fail as they get warmer, but shutting off the ignition and
> > restarting has never fixed one for me. When they begin to fail, they
> break
> > down with heat in many cases and only cooling will revive it for a short
> > time.
> > --
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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| Re: [GMCnet] HEI Ignition question [message #179218 is a reply to message #179168] |
Mon, 06 August 2012 13:15 |
Gerald Work
Messages: 102
Registered: June 2010
Karma: 0
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On ours, the contact point coming from the coil to the rotor had worn away. It came into the rally just fine but would not start at the end of the rally. I don't know how common this is (very uncommon I suspect) so don't think it to be anything to check very often if at all.
Great rally just ended at White Rock, BC. We stayed in a beautiful park
Iike setting on property owned by friends of our hosts, Dwayne and Sharon Jacobson. Could not have been better weather or friendships. Noe we leave for the rolling rally going east. We will drop out and go south at the Rockies.
Jerry
Jerry Work
The Dovetail Joint
Fine furniture designed & hand crafted
in the 1907 former Masonic Temple building
in historic Kerby, OR
Http://jerrywork.com
On Aug 6, 2012, at 6:08 AM, gene Fisher <mr.erfisher@gmail.com> wrote:
> also
> Jerry Work, had a similar problem at the GMCWS casa rallly.
>
> maybe he will jump in here and describe that
> gene
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 6, 2012 at 4:50 AM, Ken Henderson <hend4800@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> I've been VERY lucky with the ignition system, but my recent experience
> with the internal connections of the HEI coil convinced me that everyone
> should give a little attention to that part. On the Olds, especially, it's
> very simple to unplug thed primary wire connections into the distributor
> cap and remove the cover from the top of the cap. Don't have to do
> anything to the plug wires. When you then remove the 4 screws holding the
> coil in the cap, you can lift the coil and its connectors out. When you
> do, you'll discover that the conductivity of one of the connectors depends
> upon the security of the coil in the cap -- and that connection may be in
> BAD condition from RUST. Clean it up, add some NyGard or other connection
> compound, and reduce the chances of coil problems.
>
> Ken H.
> Americus, GA
> '76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
> www.gmcwipersetc.com
>
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 6, 2012 at 1:56 AM, George Beckman wrote:
>
> >
> > This stall, start sequence sounds like module. I had one that would die
> > and restart almost instantly if you turned the key off and then on. Then
> > itmight run for two minutes or two hundred miles.
> >
> > Coils often fail as they get warmer, but shutting off the ignition and
> > restarting has never fixed one for me. When they begin to fail, they break
> > down with heat in many cases and only cooling will revive it for a short
> > time.
> > --
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
>
>
> --
> Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
> “Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and -------
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/
> Alternator Protection Cable
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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| Re: HEI Ignition question [message #179260 is a reply to message #179252] |
Mon, 06 August 2012 18:39 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| wally wrote on Mon, 06 August 2012 18:05 |
Just a thought..Your 73 would have had a points style distributor which would have had a resister in it's power wire with a full voltage bypass from the starter solenoid. HEI needs full voltage so unless you rewired its supply it may not be getting enough juice. I never have never had any luck testing modules, even if they are failing they may test OK. Spares on board!
HTH
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Yes and you will never find that resistor because they used a resistance wire. You need to run a new wire if the resistance wire is still in the circuit. The wiring diagram shows that wire to be Black and Pink.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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