Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Fridge Electrical ??
Fridge Electrical ?? [message #176463] |
Thu, 12 July 2012 12:57 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629 Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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I have a small 110v fridge to temp replace my 12v. Lable says it is 1.1 amp. Can I run this off a 300 watt converter? If not how big do I need to run fridge going down road?
Thanks..
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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Re: Fridge Electrical ?? [message #176466 is a reply to message #176463] |
Thu, 12 July 2012 13:07 |
GeorgeRud
Messages: 1380 Registered: February 2007 Location: Chicago, IL
Karma: 0
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If my calculations are right, it draws 132 watts, so the inverter should be OK. However, I understand that they can draw much more power when the compressor starts, and inverters are not always able to deal with that load.
Others with more experience may be able to help with real world experience.
George Rudawsky
Chicago, IL
75 Palm Beach
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Re: Fridge Electrical ?? [message #176467 is a reply to message #176463] |
Thu, 12 July 2012 13:08 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629 Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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C Boyd wrote on Thu, 12 July 2012 13:57 | I have a small 110v fridge to temp replace my 12v. Lable says it is 1.1 amp. Can I run this off a 300 watt converter? If not how big do I need to run fridge going down road?
Thanks..
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Sorry 300 watt inverter.... Rob knows more about lecktricitie than I do..
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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Re: Fridge Electrical ?? [message #176474 is a reply to message #176469] |
Thu, 12 July 2012 13:48 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629 Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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Thanks Matt.. I did the conversion and I come up with ~ 125 watts needed.
i was planning on using it only when driving, I can swap 110v plugs when I park. I don`t do much dry camping. I was gonna direct wire it with wire nuts off the 12v frige wires.
The good news.. my best friend Wally (Air Cond Supervisor at UT) got a call from me today right in the middle of AC season.. He was glad to hear from me and said to bring it to him next week and he would check it out. He as out of the small service port adapters but was due in next week. Its a beautifull rainy day in E TN..
Matt Colie wrote on Thu, 12 July 2012 14:13 |
C Boyd wrote on Thu, 12 July 2012 13:57 | I have a small 110v fridge to temp replace my 12v. Lable says it is 1.1 amp. Can I run this off a 300 watt converter? If not how big do I need to run fridge going down road?
Thanks..
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Chuck,
When I did this, I ended up with a 750W HF (cheap) inverter and big conductors to house bank. The 450W I had would kick off when the compressor started. If yours is like most, it shouldn't take any thing like that, but I also didn't make a study of it, I just took the shot and the 750 worked.
That was supposed to be temporary until I got the Norcold working again.
Matt
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C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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Re: Fridge Electrical ?? [message #176500 is a reply to message #176483] |
Thu, 12 July 2012 16:00 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629 Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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thanks Bruce.. Murphy done made the decision not to use the inverter. Guess I`m gonna have to get Rob to show me how to read a vom. I went to hook the ground wire and I let the smoke out of the inverter. No sign of nothin on the inside being burnt, but it sure did smoke..
So plan B is get the fridge cold before we leave, then run the 60 miles to Crossville to the Rally next week then plug it up. We should be OK. Plan C is to run the 36 year old Generac. It will usually run for an hour or so in hot weather before it quits.
I have a propane fridge in a wrecked 77 Birch that I was going to fix. I would have to modify & space out the hole and run gas line.
Is it worth the effort to put a used original Propane fridge in. I know the fridge did work but he had to light it from the outside acess hole. Does it also work on 12v and 110 or just 110 and propane???
I have never had a propane but i really like the 12v I got..
thanks for any input..
rf_burns wrote on Thu, 12 July 2012 15:30 | Chuck,
Wiring the inverter to the existing fridge DC wires won't work as the wires are too light and will cause a high voltage drop to the inverter input.
The original electric fridge used a "swing" motor instead of a rotary motor compressor. A swing motor does not have a high start-up and consumed about 60watts (about 5amps @ 12 v) Your 125 watt compressor will likely consume about 500watts (40-50amps) on startup (considering you get more powerful inverter).
The other issue you will have is when you unplug from shoreline and plug into the inverter, IF the fridge was running at that point and you plug into the inverter your compressor will be stalled and will not start. If you have a robust enough inverter, the motor overload will trip. Mine takes about 600watts (50-60amps) in this case. The freon inside the fridge needs a few minutes to equalize the pressure inside before you can restart it. Swing motors do not have this "Stall" issue.
If your inverter is not powerful enough to trip the overload, the inverter itself will either trip out or brown out and burn out.
Inverters need large conductors as short as possible to the batteries to work correctly.
You want the longer wires on the high voltage AC side. So you are better to put the inverter close to the batteries and run 120v wire (extension cord) to the fridge.
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C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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Re: Fridge Electrical ?? [message #176516 is a reply to message #176500] |
Thu, 12 July 2012 18:28 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547 Registered: March 2007 Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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C Boyd wrote on Thu, 12 July 2012 17:00 | thanks Bruce.. Murphy done made the decision not to use the inverter. Guess I`m gonna have to get Rob to show me how to read a vom. I went to hook the ground wire and I let the smoke out of the inverter. No sign of nothin on the inside being burnt, but it sure did smoke..
So plan B is get the fridge cold before we leave, then run the 60 miles to Crossville to the Rally next week then plug it up. We should be OK. Plan C is to run the 36 year old Generac. It will usually run for an hour or so in hot weather before it quits.
I have a propane fridge in a wrecked 77 Birch that I was going to fix. I would have to modify & space out the hole and run gas line.
Is it worth the effort to put a used original Propane fridge in. I know the fridge did work but he had to light it from the outside acess hole. Does it also work on 12v and 110 or just 110 and propane???
I have never had a propane but i really like the 12v I got..
thanks for any input..
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Chuck,
Letting the smoke out is even worse than getting the mirrors dirty.
BUT... If you buy a Harbor Fright inverter, get the buyer protection thing. If smoke leaks out (even if it is your fault), just take it back and get a new one.
I have been running the same HF66817 for over two years. The first one leaked smoke out (all on its own) and so I went an got another that day - were actually out bound when it happened - and changed it out in their parking lot - that one with the plan and then took the now smokeless one back later, so I have a spare. They are currently 50$ on perpetual sale so a 20% coupon is not much help.
Before you plan to do much with the salvage absorption unit, run it on 120V and see if it still cools. You could manage to waste a lot of time otherwise. (BTDT)
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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Re: [GMCnet] Fridge Electrical ?? [message #176549 is a reply to message #176500] |
Thu, 12 July 2012 21:59 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912 Registered: July 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Chuck,
I'd be happy to help you troubleshoot the problem but as they say it'll be
like "the blind leading the blind!" ;-)
I just checked Harbor Freight and found this:
www.harborfreight.com/750-watt-continuous-1500-watt-peak-power-inverter-6681
7.html
It's a modified sine wave and with a 750 watt continuous and 1500 Watt surge
rating I reckon this puppy will handle anything your fridge can throw at it.
Connecting this inverter to a battery even you and I can handle!
The RED clamp goes to the POSITIVE battery post; that's the one marked with
a PLUS sign, which looks like this: +
The BLACK clamp goes to the NEGATIVE battery post; that's the one marked
with a MINUS sign, which looks like this: -
HTH!
The fridge in the 77 Birch could be a three way fridge, check the tags
inside it. I believe the fridge in the other coach there is a three way.
Keep in mind that the 12vdc function in a propane fridge is kinda useless,
it takes a huge amount of power and is only good to keep food cold that's
already cold.
Regards,
Rob M.
PS - THE Colonel will be at Crossville, he can double check your
installation!
-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Boyd
thanks Bruce.. Murphy done made the decision not to use the inverter. Guess
I`m gonna have to get Rob to show me how to read a vom. I went to hook the
ground wire and I let the smoke out of the inverter. No sign of nothin on
the inside being burnt, but it sure did smoke..
So plan B is get the fridge cold before we leave, then run the 60 miles to
Crossville to the Rally next week then plug it up. We should be OK. Plan C
is to run the 36 year old Generac. It will usually run for an hour or so in
hot weather before it quits.
I have a propane fridge in a wrecked 77 Birch that I was going to fix. I
would have to modify & space out the hole and run gas line.
Is it worth the effort to put a used original Propane fridge in. I know the
fridge did work but he had to light it from the outside acess hole. Does it
also work on 12v and 110 or just 110 and propane???
I have never had a propane but i really like the 12v I got..
thanks for any input..
C. Boyd
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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Re: [GMCnet] Fridge Electrical ?? [message #176585 is a reply to message #176549] |
Fri, 13 July 2012 08:10 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629 Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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Mornin Rob.. I have the fridge that Cat got for the barn in the hole and working on 110v and SHE say it will be fine but SHE hasnt seen the install yet. The temp fridge is smaller than the hole and I have the foam eggcrate mattress cover we use to sleep on crammed over and around the fridge to seal and hold in place temp. Hopefully Wally will be able to repair mine before Amana. He says they usually aquire a leak where the compressor line goes into the freezer plate and a good epoxy should work to seal. The compressor runs but no cool and nothing on the back changes temp so he`s thinking no gas instead of a restriction. It takes 3 1/2 oz of r-12. We have a little 12 stashed but don`t know how to measure such a small amount. I have triple beams I could use to weigh before and after but having to purge the fill line would throw everstuff off. Also thinkin of using duro-cool.
By the way.. I can`t find that set of bits you left here to remove parts off the Avion. Have you seen them???
I did try plugging up the Avion fridge to 110v and no weo.. It might be a bad 110v heating element? Could not try on propane since the lines were gone..
Robert Mueller wrote on Thu, 12 July 2012 22:59 | Chuck,
I'd be happy to help you troubleshoot the problem but as they say it'll be
like "the blind leading the blind!"
I just checked Harbor Freight and found this:
www.harborfreight.com/750-watt-continuous-1500-watt-peak-power-inverter-6681
7.html
It's a modified sine wave and with a 750 watt continuous and 1500 Watt surge
rating I reckon this puppy will handle anything your fridge can throw at it.
Connecting this inverter to a battery even you and I can handle!
The RED clamp goes to the POSITIVE battery post; that's the one marked with
a PLUS sign, which looks like this: +
The BLACK clamp goes to the NEGATIVE battery post; that's the one marked
with a MINUS sign, which looks like this: -
HTH!
The fridge in the 77 Birch could be a three way fridge, check the tags
inside it. I believe the fridge in the other coach there is a three way.
Keep in mind that the 12vdc function in a propane fridge is kinda useless,
it takes a huge amount of power and is only good to keep food cold that's
already cold.
Regards,
Rob M.
PS - THE Colonel will be at Crossville, he can double check your
installation!
-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Boyd
thanks Bruce.. Murphy done made the decision not to use the inverter. Guess
I`m gonna have to get Rob to show me how to read a vom. I went to hook the
ground wire and I let the smoke out of the inverter. No sign of nothin on
the inside being burnt, but it sure did smoke..
So plan B is get the fridge cold before we leave, then run the 60 miles to
Crossville to the Rally next week then plug it up. We should be OK. Plan C
is to run the 36 year old Generac. It will usually run for an hour or so in
hot weather before it quits.
I have a propane fridge in a wrecked 77 Birch that I was going to fix. I
would have to modify & space out the hole and run gas line.
Is it worth the effort to put a used original Propane fridge in. I know the
fridge did work but he had to light it from the outside acess hole. Does it
also work on 12v and 110 or just 110 and propane???
I have never had a propane but i really like the 12v I got..
thanks for any input..
C. Boyd
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C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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Re: [GMCnet] Fridge Electrical ?? [message #176591 is a reply to message #176549] |
Fri, 13 July 2012 08:28 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117 Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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remember to always mount the inverter next to the battery, and run the 110
to the load.
reduces the wire size by a factor of 10
( I love propane)
gene
On Thu, Jul 12, 2012 at 7:59 PM, Rob Mueller <robmueller@iinet.net.au>wrote:
> Chuck,
>
> I'd be happy to help you troubleshoot the problem but as they say it'll be
> like "the blind leading the blind!" ;-)
>
> I just checked Harbor Freight and found this:
>
>
> www.harborfreight.com/750-watt-continuous-1500-watt-peak-power-inverter-6681
> 7.html<http://www.harborfreight.com/750-watt-continuous-1500-watt-peak-power-inverter-6681%0A7.html>
>
> It's a modified sine wave and with a 750 watt continuous and 1500 Watt
> surge
> rating I reckon this puppy will handle anything your fridge can throw at
> it.
>
>
> Connecting this inverter to a battery even you and I can handle!
>
> The RED clamp goes to the POSITIVE battery post; that's the one marked with
> a PLUS sign, which looks like this: +
>
> The BLACK clamp goes to the NEGATIVE battery post; that's the one marked
> with a MINUS sign, which looks like this: -
>
> HTH!
>
> The fridge in the 77 Birch could be a three way fridge, check the tags
> inside it. I believe the fridge in the other coach there is a three way.
>
> Keep in mind that the 12vdc function in a propane fridge is kinda useless,
> it takes a huge amount of power and is only good to keep food cold that's
> already cold.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
>
> PS - THE Colonel will be at Crossville, he can double check your
> installation!
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Charles Boyd
>
> thanks Bruce.. Murphy done made the decision not to use the inverter. Guess
> I`m gonna have to get Rob to show me how to read a vom. I went to hook the
> ground wire and I let the smoke out of the inverter. No sign of nothin on
> the inside being burnt, but it sure did smoke..
> So plan B is get the fridge cold before we leave, then run the 60 miles to
> Crossville to the Rally next week then plug it up. We should be OK. Plan C
> is to run the 36 year old Generac. It will usually run for an hour or so in
> hot weather before it quits.
> I have a propane fridge in a wrecked 77 Birch that I was going to fix. I
> would have to modify & space out the hole and run gas line.
> Is it worth the effort to put a used original Propane fridge in. I know the
> fridge did work but he had to light it from the outside acess hole. Does it
> also work on 12v and 110 or just 110 and propane???
> I have never had a propane but i really like the 12v I got..
> thanks for any input..
>
> C. Boyd
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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Re: [GMCnet] Fridge Electrical ?? [message #176602 is a reply to message #176585] |
Fri, 13 July 2012 09:13 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547 Registered: March 2007 Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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C Boyd wrote on Fri, 13 July 2012 09:10 | Mornin Rob.. I have the fridge that Cat got for the barn in the hole and working on 110v and SHE say it will be fine but SHE hasnt seen the install yet. The temp fridge is smaller than the hole and I have the foam eggcrate mattress cover we use to sleep on crammed over and around the fridge to seal and hold in place temp. Hopefully Wally will be able to repair mine before Amana. He says they usually aquire a leak where the compressor line goes into the freezer plate and a good epoxy should work to seal. The compressor runs but no cool and nothing on the back changes temp so he`s thinking no gas instead of a restriction. It takes 3 1/2 oz of r-12. We have a little 12 stashed but don`t know how to measure such a small amount. I have triple beams I could use to weigh before and after but having to purge the fill line would throw everstuff off. Also thinkin of using duro-cool.
By the way.. I can`t find that set of bits you left here to remove parts off the Avion. Have you seen them???
I did try plugging up the Avion fridge to 110v and no weo.. It might be a bad 110v heating element? Could not try on propane since the lines were gone..
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Chuck,
You probably don't want to wrap the reefer in foam. Most domestic reefers use the shell as the condenser heat sink. It has to have an inch or more airspace to cool.
I had my coaches 3.5cuft reefer charged with HC-12, but I could not weight the charge because the service hoses blow away the triple beam. The charge calculated to 30gram. I had to guess and trim. If you come up with a way to do this, I would like to hear about it.
I though I got it right once, but it didn't seem to stay. I may know why now.
My electrical connection at the compressor looked like it had problems, so I epoxied that and put a piercer on the service stub on the compressor. I though that was my problem. It may have the leak where Wally indicated. I think I will try to locate that and epoxy that and then braze an access T into the compressor suction line. When this bubbles to the top of the things to mess with list again.
If you want to know it the AC heater is working, get a Kill-A-Watt (and electrical device even rob couldn't mess up). Plug it in and see if it is drawing about a couple/three hundred watts (~.3kW). If yes, the heater is good.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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Re: [GMCnet] Fridge Electrical ?? [message #176605 is a reply to message #176599] |
Fri, 13 July 2012 09:35 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629 Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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I was afeared you was gonna say that about the clutch bits..
Even spending $50 for an inverter, it seems I would have to mount it under the hood and run an extension cord under the coach and up thru the floor to get to the rear pass side where the fridge is, then there is the looks of the thing.. I was a hopen since the wire size was the same on the 300 watt inverter as is the 12v wires coming to the fridge it would have worked, but course not. As for bringing the Avion fridge to Amana, I hope to have the Tracker instead of the trailer. Even so I would have to enlarge the hole which has a shelf top and bottom and space it out and T the gas line in and run the line. I will pull it out of the Avion and bench it with 12v and 110v and see what happens.
Robert Mueller wrote on Fri, 13 July 2012 10:02 | Chuck,
Got it! I reckon that Cat won't be a happy camper when she sees the install. She wants Everstuff to look nice.
What if you spend $50 on the inverter to keep the fridge cool while you're truckin' down the road.
I believe the three way fridge in the Avion needs 120vac AND 12vdc (for the control circuit).
Suggestion remove the three way from the Avion and bring it to the Amana GMCMI Convention in your trailer and give it to the guy
that repairs them and you'll have a better than new fridge.
Sorry, I don't know what YOU did with the bits; I have enough trouble keeping track of MY tools let alone yours!
If you want another set you can get them from McMaster Carr, they're called CLUTCH BITS.
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Boyd
Mornin Rob.. I have the fridge that Cat got for the barn in the hole and working on 110v and SHE say it will be fine but SHE hasnt
seen the install yet. The temp fridge is smaller than the hole and I have the foam eggcrate mattress cover we use to sleep on
crammed over and around the fridge to seal and hold in place temp. Hopefully Wally will be able to repair mine before Amana. He says
they usually aquire a leak where the compressor line goes into the freezer plate and a good epoxy should work to seal. The
compressor runs but no cool and nothing on the back changes temp so he`s thinking no gas instead of a restriction. It takes 3 1/2 oz
of r-12. We have a little 12 stashed but don`t know how to measure such a small amount. I have triple beams I could use to weigh
before and after but having to purge the fill line would throw everstuff off. Also thinkin of using duro-cool.
By the way.. I can`t find that set of bits you left here to remove parts off the Avion. Have you seen them???
I did try plugging up the Avion fridge to 110v and no weo.. It might be a bad 110v heating element? Could not try on propane since
the lines were gone..
C. Boyd
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C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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Re: [GMCnet] Fridge Electrical ?? [message #176610 is a reply to message #176605] |
Fri, 13 July 2012 09:53 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912 Registered: July 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Chuck,
It's a good thing I'm not your Dad, when I lost tools I'd get what is commonly referred to in your neck of the woods as a Whoopin'!
;-)
Would be great if you can get the Tracker up and running and if push comes to shove I'll bet the fridge will fit in the back of the
Tracker.
That sounds like a plan for the fridge. I've emailed you three Dometic fridge manuals off net; you should be able to find enough
info in them be able to figger out if the Avion fridge is working or not.
You'll have to hook up a propane BBQ bottle and a regulator to see if it works.
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Boyd
I was afeared you was gonna say that about the clutch bits..
Even spending $50 for an inverter, it seems I would have to mount it under the hood and run an extension cord under the coach and up
thru the floor to get to the rear pass side where the fridge is, then there is the looks of the thing.. I was a hopen since the wire
size was the same on the 300 watt inverter as is the 12v wires coming to the fridge it would have worked, but course not. As for
bringing the Avion fridge to Amana, I hope to have the Tracker instead of the trailer. Even so I would have to enlarge the hole
which has a shelf top and bottom and space it out and T the gas line in and run the line. I will pull it out of the Avion and bench
it with 12v and 110v and see what happens.
C. Boyd
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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Re: [GMCnet] Fridge Electrical ?? [message #176616 is a reply to message #176614] |
Fri, 13 July 2012 11:26 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629 Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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Sir: Wally uses "iron crete" It is suppose to be the stuff NASA uses to glue the tiles on the space shuttle. Kinda like JB weld. I have used it many times to repair gas tanks from trucks to motorcycles. No failures yet.. just gotta be clean. Don`t know where to get it. What i have is in pint cans (2).
http://www.mantek.com/productView_byName.asp?cat_id=11&countryName=United+States&country=USA&language=English&language_id=4&produc t_cat=name&cat_desc=Products&product_cat_desc=Products+By+Name&pName=IRON-CRETE
k2gkk wrote on Fri, 13 July 2012 11:45 |
Good morning, Chuck.
Could you please advise me of the epoxy that can
be used to repair a refrigerant (R-134) in the
Tundra fridge of our former boat? A local A/C
man tried epoxy to seal a leak in the tubing
between the compressor and the evaporator in the
box, but was not totally successful. I would like
to be able to steer the new owner to a solution
to fix that fridge.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ '76 ex-Palm Beach ~ ~ ~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
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> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> From: covered-wagon@comcast.net
> Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2012 08:10:57 -0500
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Fridge Electrical ??
>
>
>
> Mornin Rob.. I have the fridge that Cat got for the barn in the hole and working on 110v and SHE say it will be fine but SHE hasnt seen the install yet. The temp fridge is smaller than the hole and I have the foam eggcrate mattress cover we use to sleep on crammed over and around the fridge to seal and hold in place temp. Hopefully Wally will be able to repair mine before Amana. He says they usually aquire a leak where the compressor line goes into the freezer plate and a good epoxy should work to seal. The compressor runs but no cool and nothing on the back changes temp so he`s thinking no gas instead of a restriction. It takes 3 1/2 oz of r-12. We have a little 12 stashed but don`t know how to measure such a small amount. I have triple beams I could use to weigh before and after but having to purge the fill line would throw everstuff off. Also thinkin of using duro-cool.
> By the way.. I can`t find that set of bits you left here to remove parts off the Avion. Have you seen them???
> I did try plugging up the Avion fridge to 110v and no weo.. It might be a bad 110v heating element? Could not try on propane since the lines were gone..
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C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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