Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Oil Pan Drain
| [GMCnet] Oil Pan Drain [message #175969] |
Sat, 07 July 2012 22:33  |
Dwayne
Messages: 418
Registered: October 2007
Location: White Rock BC
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Today I drained the Tranny and changed the Filter - gasket - went smooth.
From what I have heard it is wise to change this at least annually.
The red oil looked clean. There was however there was black residue in the
bottom.
No metal bits. Cleaned the pan - which is a Ragusa Aluminum - finned.
Then drained the engine oil, replaced the Oil filter and replaced the
gasket between the
housing for the cooler lines and the block. There is a lot of oil all over
the bottom of the pan and
surrounding area. The PO had drilled and taped a hole into the front
portion of the pan and
coated it with some sort of caulking. When I pushed my finger on the rigid
caulking oil cam out
the edges. I figure this is where the leak is coming from. I chipped the
coating off and found a
screw which I removed and let about a liter of Oil drain.
My question - since this screw does not seal the hole - (the PO cut the
crew down to approx 5/16th inch long)
Is what to use to get a great seal and still be able to remove it for oil
changes.????\
Regards
Dwayne
White Rock
77 Kingsley
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White Rock, BC
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil Pan Drain [message #175970 is a reply to message #175969] |
Sat, 07 July 2012 22:43  |
midlf
Messages: 2212
Registered: July 2007
Location: SE Wisc. (Palmyra)
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| Dwayne wrote on Sat, 07 July 2012 22:33 |
Is what to use to get a great seal and still be able to remove it for oil
changes.????\
Regards
Dwayne
|
My first shot would be an O-ring.
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil Pan Drain [message #175972 is a reply to message #175970] |
Sat, 07 July 2012 23:04 |
Dwayne
Messages: 418
Registered: October 2007
Location: White Rock BC
Karma: 0
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It shouldn.t hurt ti have a longer bolt. The o ring should handle the
temperature. Right?
Thanks steve.
On 2012-07-07 8:43 PM, "Steve Southworth" <midlf@centurytel.net> wrote:
>
>
> Dwayne wrote on Sat, 07 July 2012 22:33
> > Is what to use to get a great seal and still be able to remove it for oil
> > changes.????\
> > Regards
> > Dwayne
>
>
> My first shot would be an O-ring.
> --
> Steve Southworth
> 1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
> 1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
> Palmyra WI
> _______________________________________________
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White Rock, BC
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil Pan Drain [message #175974 is a reply to message #175972] |
Sat, 07 July 2012 23:14 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Don't you wonder why he cut the bolt so short? Remember all that metal
slinging 'round 'n' 'round in there? Be darned sure the holes now right
under a rod journal!
DUMB idea trying to install a bung that way -- it's hard enough getting a
good oil tight seal with an honest-to-goodness bung factory installed! I'd
be sorely tempted to braze a bung in from the outside -- so what if the
torch lights a little oil fire inside there? Not going to be much oxygen
and what's going to burn for long? Maybe hook a bottle of nitrogen to a
PCV hose and keep the gas flowing during the brazing so there's NO O2
inside the engine?
Ken "Not Liking Sheet Metal Drain Plugs" H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Sun, Jul 8, 2012 at 12:04 AM, Dwayne Jacobson wrote:
> It shouldn.t hurt ti have a longer bolt. The o ring should handle the
> temperature. Right?
> Thanks steve.
> On 2012-07-07 8:43 PM, "Steve Southworth" wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Dwayne wrote on Sat, 07 July 2012 22:33
> > > Is what to use to get a great seal and still be able to remove it for
> oil
> > > changes.????\
> > > Regards
> > > Dwayne
> >
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil Pan Drain [message #175980 is a reply to message #175974] |
Sun, 08 July 2012 02:39 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| Ken Henderson wrote on Sat, 07 July 2012 23:14 |
Don't you wonder why he cut the bolt so short? Remember all that metal
slinging 'round 'n' 'round in there? Be darned sure the holes now right
under a rod journal!
DUMB idea trying to install a bung that way -- it's hard enough getting a
good oil tight seal with an honest-to-goodness bung factory installed! I'd
be sorely tempted to braze a bung in from the outside -- so what if the
torch lights a little oil fire inside there? Not going to be much oxygen
and what's going to burn for long? Maybe hook a bottle of nitrogen to a
PCV hose and keep the gas flowing during the brazing so there's NO O2
inside the engine?
Ken "Not Liking Sheet Metal Drain Plugs" H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Sun, Jul 8, 2012 at 12:04 AM, Dwayne Jacobson wrote:
> It shouldn.t hurt ti have a longer bolt. The o ring should handle the
> temperature. Right?
> Thanks steve.
> On 2012-07-07 8:43 PM, "Steve Southworth" wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Dwayne wrote on Sat, 07 July 2012 22:33
> > > Is what to use to get a great seal and still be able to remove it for
> oil
> > > changes.????\
> > > Regards
> > > Dwayne
|
Be real careful welding in a bung on that engine. When I was 20 I had a badly stripped drain plug so a good friend in locally respected shop said "I'll weld one on there for you. Bring it over." Well in the process of welding it the internal gasses in the engine exploded and he ended up burned. He spent a couple of days in the hospital and several weeks recovering. I got someone else to finish the weld job because I was afraid of it and I needed my car back.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil Pan Drain [message #175991 is a reply to message #175969] |
Sun, 08 July 2012 07:27 |
 |
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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G'day,
Well that PO installed mod has got to be one of the DUMBEST things I have
ever heard!
I have installed bungs in two Olds 455 pans and they are pressed sheet
metal.
The pans are NOT thick enough to thread. I suspect the screw of which you
speak is "stuck" in the hole and glued in with the "caulking."
From where I sit you a reasonably acceptable fix would be:
Clean and abrade the area around the screw hole then use an epoxy that will
not be affected by temperatures of up to 300° F (higher than the oil temp in
the pan for a margin of safety) and epoxy the screw back in. When the epoxy
cured I'd put some more epoxy in a small plastic container and tape it over
the screw so that you would completely cover the screw and an area of about
1" around it. I would monitor the epoxy to make sure it doesn’t leak or come
loose.
"To use to get a great seal and still be able to remove it for oil changes;"
remove the transmission, lift the engine, remove the oil pan, weld a bung in
it, put it back together.
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dwayne Jacobson
Today I drained the Tranny and changed the Filter - gasket - went smooth.
From what I have heard it is wise to change this at least annually.
The red oil looked clean. There was however there was black residue in the
bottom. No metal bits. Cleaned the pan - which is a Ragusa Aluminum -
finned.
Then drained the engine oil, replaced the Oil filter and replaced the gasket
between the housing for the cooler lines and the block. There is a lot of
oil all over the bottom of the pan and surrounding area. The PO had drilled
and taped a hole into the front portion of the pan and coated it with some
sort of caulking. When I pushed my finger on the rigid caulking oil cam out
the edges. I figure this is where the leak is coming from. I chipped the
coating off and found a screw which I removed and let about a liter of Oil
drain.
My question - since this screw does not seal the hole - (the PO cut the crew
down to approx 5/16th inch long) Is what to use to get a great seal and
still be able to remove it for oil changes.????\
Regards
Dwayne
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil Pan Drain [message #175992 is a reply to message #175991] |
Sun, 08 July 2012 07:33 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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My daughter is running around with JB Weld in a hole she managed to punch in an oil pan. It has lasted well for 4 or 5 years.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil Pan Drain [message #176038 is a reply to message #175992] |
Sun, 08 July 2012 11:40 |
Dwayne
Messages: 418
Registered: October 2007
Location: White Rock BC
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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How about I install the screw with an O ring then cover it with the JB Weld?
Another question: I didn't realize that the Final Drive had it's own oil
reserve. How often should this be changed and
what Oils do you recommend for it as well as for the Transmission.
I have changed the Tranny filter with a WIX (and noticed "Made in China"
stamped on it)
Also saw there is a small round plastic Tranny Filter on the line from the
tranny rad to the tranny.
I figure I should change that at the same time. Any suggestions on this?
Boy - I am finally getting the warm feeling down in my gut now that I am
working on it rather than taking it to
the local garage. I came crawling out from under and said to my wife who
had come out to see what I was up to
and said " I love working on it - getting to know it"
The ramp I built earlier this year has made it so much easier to get
under.
What I want to do next is replace the header gaskets and get one broken
bolt out and replace all the bolts.
So to do this I have to raise it up, remove the tires and inner fenders to
gain easy access. Now with the ramp
I have a lot of height in the mid section (4 ft wide x 3 ft high) and
getting a jack to perform a central hike is beyond me.
I thought of using 2 bottle jacks on each side and ease them up then
install some blocking under the frame. Does this make
sense.
Regards
Dwayne
White Rock
Discovering past mechanical traits ( I took Auto in High School - rebuilt
my first car - a 48 dodge coupe and dropped a
small DeSoto Hemi Head into it) Drove this hot car finishing high school
and Tech. After I married - instant family - Wife with 2 girls and 2 more
girls soon after - went from station wagons to vans. My work as an
Architectural Design Consultant took forefront and stopped the majority of
mechanical work. Now getting back to being down and Dirty.
77 Kingsley.
Preparing for the upcoming 13,000 mile journey Across Canada and return
thru the States. Looking forward to seeing so many I only know from being
on the web.
On Sun, Jul 8, 2012 at 5:33 AM, Ken Burton <n9cv@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> My daughter is running around with JB Weld in a hole she managed to punch
> in an oil pan. It has lasted well for 4 or 5 years.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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--
Dwayne Jacobson
Haven Properties
Ph: 604-538-3823 Ext 22
Fax: 604-538-5845
Cell: 604-644-8090
dwayne@havenproperties.ca
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White Rock, BC
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil Pan Drain [message #176039 is a reply to message #176038] |
Sun, 08 July 2012 11:53 |
midlf
Messages: 2212
Registered: July 2007
Location: SE Wisc. (Palmyra)
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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| Dwayne wrote on Sun, 08 July 2012 11:40 |
Also saw there is a small round plastic Tranny Filter on the line from the
tranny rad to the tranny.
I figure I should change that at the same time. Any suggestions on this?
Boy - I am finally getting the warm feeling down in my gut now that I am
working on it rather than taking it to
the local garage. I came crawling out from under and said to my wife who
had come out to see what I was up to
and said " I love working on it - getting to know it"
The ramp I built earlier this year has made it so much easier to get
under.
Regards
Dwayne
|
As to the extra tranny filter I wouldn't worry about it. However they are so easy to change you might just do it to know it has been done and when.
Congratulations on rediscovering neglected skills and finding out why a lot of us have so much fun with the GMC's. You even have more fun than some of us because you also use yours, not just work on it.
Before anyone else gets excited about Dwayne's ramps, realize they are of a rather special construction, see here:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6004-dwayne-s-ramp.html
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil Pan Drain [message #176054 is a reply to message #176039] |
Sun, 08 July 2012 14:27 |
Don A
Messages: 895
Registered: October 2008
Location: Dallas, TX
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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his ramps are fantastic.
but what scared the heck out of me was what is meant by:
"getting a jack to perform a central hike is beyond me. "
Don Adams Dallas, TX
'76 26' Glenbrook, '90 Sidekick
rebuilt by R Archer, powered by J Bounds, Koba
[IMG]http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6109/G2.jpg[/IMG]
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil Pan Drain [message #176058 is a reply to message #175980] |
Sun, 08 July 2012 14:57 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Ken,
Thanks for telling me about that -- I've often wondered whether there was
really any risk from such an exercise. When I was very young, one of my
great-uncles was killed while welding a tank, but that one was full of
asphalt.
I wonder if the inert gas purging would be sufficient or if the generated
gases coming out the hole might ignite?
Ken H.
On Sun, Jul 8, 2012 at 3:39 AM, Ken Burton wrote:
>
> Ken Henderson wrote on Sat, 07 July 2012 23:14
>
...
> > DUMB idea trying to install a bung that way -- it's hard enough getting a
> > good oil tight seal with an honest-to-goodness bung factory installed!
> I'd
> > be sorely tempted to braze a bung in from the outside -- so what if the
> > torch lights a little oil fire inside there? Not going to be much oxygen
> > and what's going to burn for long? Maybe hook a bottle of nitrogen to a
> > PCV hose and keep the gas flowing during the brazing so there's NO O2
> > inside the engine?
> ...
> Be real careful welding in a bung on that engine. When I was 20 I had a
> badly stripped drain plug so a good friend in locally respected shop said
> "I'll weld one on there for you. Bring it over." Well in the process of
> welding it the internal gasses in the engine exploded and he ended up
> burned. He spent a couple of days in the hospital and several weeks
> recovering. I got someone else to finish the weld job because I was afraid
> of it and I needed my car back.
>
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil Pan Drain [message #176063 is a reply to message #176054] |
Sun, 08 July 2012 15:52 |
Dwayne
Messages: 418
Registered: October 2007
Location: White Rock BC
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Ok I get it. Will use 2 bottle jacks and post some pics. Right now I have
the coach backed onto the ramp. There is still plenty of room to get under
the front.
On 2012-07-08 12:27 PM, "Don Adams" <dj.adams@att.net> wrote:
>
>
>
> his ramps are fantastic.
>
> but what scared the heck out of me was what is meant by:
>
> "getting a jack to perform a central hike is beyond me. "
> --
> Don
> Dallas, TX
> 1976 26' Glenbrook
> rebuilt by R Archer
> powered by J Bounds, Koba
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Dwayne & Sharon Jacobson
White Rock, BC
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil Pan Drain [message #176065 is a reply to message #176058] |
Sun, 08 July 2012 16:34 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
|
Senior Member |
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|
I really do not know what caused the problem. I assume it was oil on the bottom of the pan being vaporized by the high heat from the welding. I'm not a welder and in this case I would be afraid to do this myself after what happened to Clarence some 50 years ago. I would be more inclined to look for some other method of repair that does not involve high heat, sparks, or flame.
| Ken Henderson wrote on Sun, 08 July 2012 14:57 |
Ken,
Thanks for telling me about that -- I've often wondered whether there was
really any risk from such an exercise. When I was very young, one of my
great-uncles was killed while welding a tank, but that one was full of
asphalt.
I wonder if the inert gas purging would be sufficient or if the generated
gases coming out the hole might ignite?
Ken H.
On Sun, Jul 8, 2012 at 3:39 AM, Ken Burton wrote:
>
> Ken Henderson wrote on Sat, 07 July 2012 23:14
>
...
> > DUMB idea trying to install a bung that way -- it's hard enough getting a
> > good oil tight seal with an honest-to-goodness bung factory installed!
> I'd
> > be sorely tempted to braze a bung in from the outside -- so what if the
> > torch lights a little oil fire inside there? Not going to be much oxygen
> > and what's going to burn for long? Maybe hook a bottle of nitrogen to a
> > PCV hose and keep the gas flowing during the brazing so there's NO O2
> > inside the engine?
> ...
> Be real careful welding in a bung on that engine. When I was 20 I had a
> badly stripped drain plug so a good friend in locally respected shop said
> "I'll weld one on there for you. Bring it over." Well in the process of
> welding it the internal gasses in the engine exploded and he ended up
> burned. He spent a couple of days in the hospital and several weeks
> recovering. I got someone else to finish the weld job because I was afraid
> of it and I needed my car back.
|
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil Pan Drain [message #176090 is a reply to message #176065] |
Sun, 08 July 2012 19:46 |
Dwayne
Messages: 418
Registered: October 2007
Location: White Rock BC
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
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What I just did. I used a steel brush on my drill and cleaned off the oil
residue and rust. Cleaned with Acetone.
Had a new bolt with an O ring (cut to length) applied a thread sealant and
set the bolt. IN tightening it turn at the end so
not a great hold. Then I applied a coat of JB Weld and will let it set.
Then plan to put another layer on top.
Will let that set before filling the pan and running the engine while
watching for any oil leak.
I have never changed the oil in the Final Drive. I see the plug on the
side. What's the process to change this?
Thank you for all the help.
Anyone that wants to have a ramp built - just call me and I help.
JUst a quick add on. Our youngest daughter Lisa took her 3 girls plus a
friends 3 young children for a week at the Cape near Pacific City Oregon -
about an 8hr plus drive from here. Our 77 Eleganza performed the way she
should. The only problem she had was the fuse on the Macerator blew - she
called and I walked her through using the original dump system.
Yewh!! So it's back at home waiting for Barbie and DJ to stay in during
the Cascaders White Rock Rally.
Regards
Dwayne
White Rock
Kingsley 77
On Sun, Jul 8, 2012 at 2:34 PM, Ken Burton <n9cv@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> I really do not know what caused the problem. I assume it was oil on the
> bottom of the pan being vaporized by the high heat from the welding. I'm
> not a welder and in this case I would be afraid to do this myself after
> what happened to Clarence some 50 years ago. I would be more inclined to
> look for some other method of repair that does not involve high heat,
> sparks, or flame.
>
>
>
>
>
> Ken Henderson wrote on Sun, 08 July 2012 14:57
> > Ken,
> >
> > Thanks for telling me about that -- I've often wondered whether there was
> > really any risk from such an exercise. When I was very young, one of my
> > great-uncles was killed while welding a tank, but that one was full of
> > asphalt.
> >
> > I wonder if the inert gas purging would be sufficient or if the generated
> > gases coming out the hole might ignite?
> >
> > Ken H.
> >
> > On Sun, Jul 8, 2012 at 3:39 AM, Ken Burton wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Ken Henderson wrote on Sat, 07 July 2012 23:14
> > >
> > ...
> >
> > > > DUMB idea trying to install a bung that way -- it's hard enough
> getting a
> > > > good oil tight seal with an honest-to-goodness bung factory
> installed!
> > > I'd
> > > > be sorely tempted to braze a bung in from the outside -- so what if
> the
> > > > torch lights a little oil fire inside there? Not going to be much
> oxygen
> > > > and what's going to burn for long? Maybe hook a bottle of nitrogen
> to a
> > > > PCV hose and keep the gas flowing during the brazing so there's NO O2
> > > > inside the engine?
> > > ...
> > > Be real careful welding in a bung on that engine. When I was 20 I had
> a
> > > badly stripped drain plug so a good friend in locally respected shop
> said
> > > "I'll weld one on there for you. Bring it over." Well in the process
> of
> > > welding it the internal gasses in the engine exploded and he ended up
> > > burned. He spent a couple of days in the hospital and several weeks
> > > recovering. I got someone else to finish the weld job because I was
> afraid
> > > of it and I needed my car back.
>
>
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Dwayne Jacobson
Haven Properties
Ph: 604-538-3823 Ext 22
Fax: 604-538-5845
Cell: 604-644-8090
dwayne@havenproperties.ca
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Dwayne & Sharon Jacobson
White Rock, BC
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] Oil Pan Drain [message #176091 is a reply to message #176038] |
Sun, 08 July 2012 20:35 |
|
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Dwayne,
An o-ring's are meant to be installed in machined out square grooves NOT
under the head of a screw.
On to question 2.
Click on the link below and download a copy of the Maintenance Manual for
your 77 Kingsley.
http://www.bdub.net/factory-manuals.html
Turn to Section O; General Information, Periodic Maintenance, and
Lubrication and you find all the info you'll need.
I personally use Mobil full synthetic gear lube for the FD and Mobil full
synthetic trans fluid.
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dwayne Jacobson
How about I install the screw with an O ring then cover it with the JB Weld?
Another question: I didn't realize that the Final Drive had it's own oil
reserve. How often should this be changed and
what Oils do you recommend for it as well as for the Transmission.
I have changed the Tranny filter with a WIX (and noticed "Made in China"
stamped on it)
Also saw there is a small round plastic Tranny Filter on the line from the
tranny rad to the tranny.
I figure I should change that at the same time. Any suggestions on this?
Boy - I am finally getting the warm feeling down in my gut now that I am
working on it rather than taking it to
the local garage. I came crawling out from under and said to my wife who
had come out to see what I was up to
and said " I love working on it - getting to know it"
The ramp I built earlier this year has made it so much easier to get
under.
What I want to do next is replace the header gaskets and get one broken
bolt out and replace all the bolts.
So to do this I have to raise it up, remove the tires and inner fenders to
gain easy access. Now with the ramp
I have a lot of height in the mid section (4 ft wide x 3 ft high) and
getting a jack to perform a central hike is beyond me.
I thought of using 2 bottle jacks on each side and ease them up then
install some blocking under the frame. Does this make
sense.
Regards
Dwayne
White Rock
Discovering past mechanical traits ( I took Auto in High School - rebuilt
my first car - a 48 dodge coupe and dropped a
small DeSoto Hemi Head into it) Drove this hot car finishing high school
and Tech. After I married - instant family - Wife with 2 girls and 2 more
girls soon after - went from station wagons to vans. My work as an
Architectural Design Consultant took forefront and stopped the majority of
mechanical work. Now getting back to being down and Dirty.
77 Kingsley.
Preparing for the upcoming 13,000 mile journey Across Canada and return
thru the States. Looking forward to seeing so many I only know from being
on the web.
On Sun, Jul 8, 2012 at 5:33 AM, Ken Burton <n9cv@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> My daughter is running around with JB Weld in a hole she managed to punch
> in an oil pan. It has lasted well for 4 or 5 years.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Dwayne Jacobson
Haven Properties
Ph: 604-538-3823 Ext 22
Fax: 604-538-5845
Cell: 604-644-8090
dwayne@havenproperties.ca
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Oil Pan Drain [message #176093 is a reply to message #176090] |
Sun, 08 July 2012 20:45 |
|
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Dwayne,
By putting an o-ring in between the bolt head and the pan you have weakened
the bond strength. It would have been better to epoxy the bolt directly to
the bottom of the pan.
Your problem will not be leakage; the problem is the bolt falling out.
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dwayne Jacobson
What I just did. I used a steel brush on my drill and cleaned off the oil
residue and rust. Cleaned with Acetone.
Had a new bolt with an O ring (cut to length) applied a thread sealant and
set the bolt. IN tightening it turn at the end so
not a great hold. Then I applied a coat of JB Weld and will let it set.
Then plan to put another layer on top.
Will let that set before filling the pan and running the engine while
watching for any oil leak.
I have never changed the oil in the Final Drive. I see the plug on the
side. What's the process to change this?
Thank you for all the help.
Anyone that wants to have a ramp built - just call me and I help.
JUst a quick add on. Our youngest daughter Lisa took her 3 girls plus a
friends 3 young children for a week at the Cape near Pacific City Oregon -
about an 8hr plus drive from here. Our 77 Eleganza performed the way she
should. The only problem she had was the fuse on the Macerator blew - she
called and I walked her through using the original dump system.
Yewh!! So it's back at home waiting for Barbie and DJ to stay in during
the Cascaders White Rock Rally.
Regards
Dwayne
White Rock
Kingsley 77
On Sun, Jul 8, 2012 at 2:34 PM, Ken Burton <n9cv@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> I really do not know what caused the problem. I assume it was oil on the
> bottom of the pan being vaporized by the high heat from the welding. I'm
> not a welder and in this case I would be afraid to do this myself after
> what happened to Clarence some 50 years ago. I would be more inclined to
> look for some other method of repair that does not involve high heat,
> sparks, or flame.
>
>
>
>
>
> Ken Henderson wrote on Sun, 08 July 2012 14:57
> > Ken,
> >
> > Thanks for telling me about that -- I've often wondered whether there
was
> > really any risk from such an exercise. When I was very young, one of my
> > great-uncles was killed while welding a tank, but that one was full of
> > asphalt.
> >
> > I wonder if the inert gas purging would be sufficient or if the
generated
> > gases coming out the hole might ignite?
> >
> > Ken H.
> >
> > On Sun, Jul 8, 2012 at 3:39 AM, Ken Burton wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Ken Henderson wrote on Sat, 07 July 2012 23:14
> > >
> > ...
> >
> > > > DUMB idea trying to install a bung that way -- it's hard enough
> getting a
> > > > good oil tight seal with an honest-to-goodness bung factory
> installed!
> > > I'd
> > > > be sorely tempted to braze a bung in from the outside -- so what if
> the
> > > > torch lights a little oil fire inside there? Not going to be much
> oxygen
> > > > and what's going to burn for long? Maybe hook a bottle of nitrogen
> to a
> > > > PCV hose and keep the gas flowing during the brazing so there's NO
O2
> > > > inside the engine?
> > > ...
> > > Be real careful welding in a bung on that engine. When I was 20 I had
> a
> > > badly stripped drain plug so a good friend in locally respected shop
> said
> > > "I'll weld one on there for you. Bring it over." Well in the process
> of
> > > welding it the internal gasses in the engine exploded and he ended up
> > > burned. He spent a couple of days in the hospital and several weeks
> > > recovering. I got someone else to finish the weld job because I was
> afraid
> > > of it and I needed my car back.
>
>
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Dwayne Jacobson
Haven Properties
Ph: 604-538-3823 Ext 22
Fax: 604-538-5845
Cell: 604-644-8090
dwayne@havenproperties.ca
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
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Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Oil Pan Drain [message #176109 is a reply to message #176090] |
Sun, 08 July 2012 22:42 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Dwayne,
Changing the gear oil in the final drive involves removing the cover to drain it, replacing the gasket (don't use gasket sealer because it will plug up the venting system on the top of the gasket), and refilling it with gear oil, probably 85W90 or similar. This should be done approx every 12,000 miles. Not a difficult job at all.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
|
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|
| Re: [GMCnet] Oil Pan Drain [message #176126 is a reply to message #176109] |
Mon, 09 July 2012 07:44 |
|
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Carl,
When I removed the cover from The Blue Streaks FD I found a jelly like
substance about 3/4 deep at the bottom. I'd bet that fluid had NEVER been
changed! FD was in fine shape though.
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Carl Stouffer
Dwayne,
Changing the gear oil in the final drive involves removing the cover to
drain it, replacing the gasket (don't use gasket sealer because it will plug
up the venting system on the top of the gasket), and refilling it with gear
oil, probably 85W90 or similar. This should be done approx every 12,000
miles. Not a difficult job at all.
--
Carl
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Oil Pan Drain [message #176145 is a reply to message #176091] |
Mon, 09 July 2012 14:13 |
Dwayne
Messages: 418
Registered: October 2007
Location: White Rock BC
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Thank you Rob for the Link to the Catalogue.
So what I am looking for is a Part Number for the Gasket on the Final Drive
differential.
The catalogue shows 231288 as Cover gasket and Shield. IF this is correct
then I am more than half way there.
I plan on taking the cover off - drain the oil and replace the Gasket and
add new Gear Oil.
Mobil full synthetic gear lube for the FD - weight 85W90 ?
Regards
Dwayne
White Rock
77 Kingsley.
On Sun, Jul 8, 2012 at 6:35 PM, Rob Mueller <robmueller@iinet.net.au> wrote:
> Dwayne,
>
>
> http://www.bdub.net/factory-manuals.html
>
>
> I personally use Mobil full synthetic gear lube for the FD and Mobil full
> synthetic trans fluid.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dwayne Jacobson
>
> How about I install the screw with an O ring then cover it with the JB
> Weld?
>
> Another question: I didn't realize that the Final Drive had it's own oil
> reserve. How often should this be changed and
> what Oils do you recommend for it as well as for the Transmission.
>
> I have changed the Tranny filter with a WIX (and noticed "Made in China"
> stamped on it)
>
> Also saw there is a small round plastic Tranny Filter on the line from the
> tranny rad to the tranny.
> I figure I should change that at the same time. Any suggestions on this?
>
> Boy - I am finally getting the warm feeling down in my gut now that I am
> working on it rather than taking it to
> the local garage. I came crawling out from under and said to my wife who
> had come out to see what I was up to
> and said " I love working on it - getting to know it"
>
> The ramp I built earlier this year has made it so much easier to get
> under.
>
> What I want to do next is replace the header gaskets and get one broken
> bolt out and replace all the bolts.
> So to do this I have to raise it up, remove the tires and inner fenders to
> gain easy access. Now with the ramp
> I have a lot of height in the mid section (4 ft wide x 3 ft high) and
> getting a jack to perform a central hike is beyond me.
> I thought of using 2 bottle jacks on each side and ease them up then
> install some blocking under the frame. Does this make
> sense.
>
> Regards
> Dwayne
> White Rock
> Discovering past mechanical traits ( I took Auto in High School - rebuilt
> my first car - a 48 dodge coupe and dropped a
> small DeSoto Hemi Head into it) Drove this hot car finishing high school
> and Tech. After I married - instant family - Wife with 2 girls and 2 more
> girls soon after - went from station wagons to vans. My work as an
> Architectural Design Consultant took forefront and stopped the majority of
> mechanical work. Now getting back to being down and Dirty.
> 77 Kingsley.
> Preparing for the upcoming 13,000 mile journey Across Canada and return
> thru the States. Looking forward to seeing so many I only know from being
> on the web.
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 8, 2012 at 5:33 AM, Ken Burton <n9cv@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > My daughter is running around with JB Weld in a hole she managed to punch
> > in an oil pan. It has lasted well for 4 or 5 years.
> > --
> > Ken Burton - N9KB
> > 76 Palm Beach
> > Hebron, Indiana
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Dwayne Jacobson
> Haven Properties
> Ph: 604-538-3823 Ext 22
> Fax: 604-538-5845
> Cell: 604-644-8090
> dwayne@havenproperties.ca
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Dwayne Jacobson
Haven Properties
Ph: 604-538-3823 Ext 22
Fax: 604-538-5845
Cell: 604-644-8090
dwayne@havenproperties.ca
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Dwayne & Sharon Jacobson
White Rock, BC
77 Eleganza II
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