| Aluminum Radiators and Electrolysis [message #173092] |
Tue, 12 June 2012 12:56  |
Jon payne
Messages: 495
Registered: May 2008
Karma: 1
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Guys,
I was speaking with one of my friends about the recent problems I have with my radiator. I told him after my trip I will be installing an aluminum radiator. He told me about a potential problem with aluminum radiators. The problem is electrolysis which can eat away the aluminum. He mentioned to combat this Flex-a-Lite fans sells a zinc anode that can go in place of the drain cock or any 1/4" NPT fitting in the cooling system. The zinc will be eaten by the galvanic action instead of the aluminum. See below link for the details.
Jon
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/anode.html
Jon Payne
76 Palm Beach
Westfield,IN
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| Re: Aluminum Radiators and Electrolysis [message #173101 is a reply to message #173092] |
Tue, 12 June 2012 14:24  |
Jon payne
Messages: 495
Registered: May 2008
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Rob thanks for the info. I wondered how the coolant level sensor works without a good ground, considering the rad is supported by rubber mounts. I just assumed the ground was via the transmission lines. I have to look again, but I am thinking neither are all metal. The upper one has a splice where the PO transmission repair shop installed a in line filter and the lower goes to the external cooler which of course is rubber. So I wonder where the level sensor gets it's ground from?
Regarding the anode placement, I am thinking it could be installed in place of either of the two drain plugs on the side of the engine block.
Jon
Jon Payne
76 Palm Beach
Westfield,IN
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| Re: Aluminum Radiators and Electrolysis [message #173102 is a reply to message #173101] |
Tue, 12 June 2012 14:38 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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Jon,
I was told that my braided steel oil cooler lines will also provide the necessary ground. If you have those, you have it covered even if there are rubber sections in your transmission cooler lines.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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| Re: Aluminum Radiators and Electrolysis [message #173105 is a reply to message #173102] |
Tue, 12 June 2012 15:02 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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You want the radiator grounded ONLY to the engine block and NOT the frame. The grounding was originally accomplished by the transmission cooler lines. The oil lines were rubber. If you now have JR Slaten's stainless woven lines that will do the job also.
What you are trying to prevent is any electrical current flow from the coolant to the radiator.
I have never heard of zinc protecting again this problem. I personally can not see how it would help.
The best way to fix this for Bother the OEM and he new aluminum radiators is to assure he grounding is correct.
The following was stolen out of a grounding presentation I did a few years back for a GMCES and a GMCMI rally.
A voltmeter capable of reading both AC and DC currents is required to test cooling systems. The meter needs to read zero to the maximum voltage of the system being tested in tenths of a volt. The meter leads must be long enough to reach between the coolant (radiator filler cap) and the engine. An ohm function of a voltmeter is very helpful to pinpoint areas of resistance in as electrical system that will cause an electrical current to ground through the coolant rather than the engineered electrical circuit.
Procedure
With the digital voltmeter set to 20 volts or above, attach the negative meter lead to the engine.
Install the second lead in the coolant touching the coolant only by reaching through the radiator fill.
Read the DC and AC voltage with all systems off. If a block heater is present, also take a reading with the heater turned on. If an automatic battery charger is present, as a standby system, also take a reading with this system running.
Read the DC and AC voltage with the electrical starter engaged.
Read the DC and the AC voltage with the engine running and all systems turned on: lights, coolers, fans, heaters, air conditioning, cell phone, two-way radio, including the phone and radio on both standby and transmit.
Voltage of zero to .3 is normal in the coolant of a cast iron engine. Such an engine will be destroyed with time by .5 volts, and engine manufactures are reporting .15 volts will destroy an aluminum engine.
The current / voltage will be AC if the problem is due to static electricity.
If the coolant shows an electrical problem with all the equipment turned on; turn off one system at a time until you finally turn off the system that stops the electrical current. When the current stops, this will indicate the electrical system causing the problem.
Be partially careful of starters. They can cause as much damage to a cooling system as a direct connection to an arc welder. This is due to the amperage present.
Always change the coolant if a current is detected. The electrical current will destroy the protecting chemicals in a properly inhibited coolant.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: Aluminum Radiators and Electrolysis [message #173505 is a reply to message #173092] |
Sat, 16 June 2012 09:55 |
shawnee
Messages: 422
Registered: February 2004
Location: NC
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Jon,
I am replying to your memo late due to computer problems. Make sure the only grounding of the radiator is through the transmission lines or to the engine ground. Do NOT ground the radiator other than to the motor. If you ground otherwise you void the warantee. If you ground otherwise you give a direct path through the radiator and then you make sure you will have electrolysis. This pertains to both aluminum and brass radiators.
Gene Dotson
74 Canyonlands
www.bdub.net/Motorhome_Enhancements New Windows and Aluminum Radiators
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