Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator / electric pump etc
| Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator / electric pump etc [message #171834] |
Sun, 03 June 2012 02:35  |
glacierfl
Messages: 444
Registered: June 2011
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Hello,
Was looking up sosme stuff regarding, OEM fuel pump in the 455 engine. A few reports of the PSI on some fuel pumps being above the recommended range. I then noticed you could get adjustable Fuel pressure regulators. Well me being me, i wanted to ask you guys, what are the pros's and con's of this. Also i want to fit 2 fuel pumps later on, one running from each tank, via the tank selector switch. What is the pressure that a well set up carb is expecting, and if that pressure is much higher does that result in any problems. Have any of you removed the OEM engine fuel pump?, replacing with electric pumps. Sorry for so many questions here 
cheers and beers
Steve & Debbie
Monticello, FL
77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
EX G4WDT
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| Re: [GMCnet] Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator / electric pump etc [message #171836 is a reply to message #171834] |
Sun, 03 June 2012 02:43  |
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ljdavick
Messages: 3548
Registered: March 2007
Location: Fremont, CA
Karma: -3
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Steve,
The fuel pressure regulators should be near the carb or throttle body with a return line plumbed to the tanks in some fashion. Most plumb the return to the filler tube (which makes sense to me). I'm going to install fuel injection one of these days with an electronically controlled distributor, so this mod is in my future too!
With a quality pressure regulator the pumps can do their thing and the carb will always be happy.
Larry Davick
Sent from my iPad
On Jun 3, 2012, at 12:35 AM, steve & debbie <zzdebz@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
> Was looking up sosme stuff regarding, OEM fuel pump in the 455 engine. A few reports of the PSI on some fuel pumps being above the recommended range. I then noticed you could get adjustable Fuel pressure regulators. Well me being me, i wanted to ask you guys, what are the pros's and con's of this. Also i want to fit 2 fuel pumps later on, one running from each tank, via the tank selector switch. What is the pressure that a well set up carb is expecting, and if that pressure is much higher does that result in any problems. Have any of you removed the OEM engine fuel pump?, replacing with electric pumps. Sorry for so many questions here :(
>
> cheers and beers
>
>
> --
> Steve & Debbie
> Monticello, FL
> 77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
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Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, Ca
Howell EFI + EBL + Electronic Dizzy
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| Re: Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator / electric pump etc [message #171838 is a reply to message #171834] |
Sun, 03 June 2012 03:01 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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The fuel pressure for a GMC carb is usually said to be 4 to 6 PSI. The mechanical OEM fuel pump will do that and so will the electric Carter P4070. So no regulator is required with either the Carter electric or the Mechanical.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator / electric pump etc [message #171847 is a reply to message #171834] |
Sun, 03 June 2012 07:20 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Steve,
Mechanical fuel pumps have a diaphragm which acts as the piston to
pull fuel from the tank and push it to the carburetor. That diaphragm
is pushed by a spring and pulled by a one-way linkage to an eccentric
on the engine camshaft. Since the linkage can only pull and the
spring only push; and, since springs never get stronger, only weaker,
it's HIGHLY unlikely that a mechanical fuel pump will ever produce
pressure higher than its design.
That said, higher than normal pressure CAN cause carb problems.
Specifically, excessive pressure will leak past the float valve
causing flooding of the engine. However, I suspect, IAW para. 1,
above, that most such incidents are due to trash between the needle
valve and its seat, a deteriorated needle valve (they generally have a
soft tip these days), or some other internal mechanical problem.
I like your plan to use a mechanical pump per fuel tank -- I've had
that setup for many years with never a problem. With those pumps
pushing from just forward of the tanks, I've never had a vapor lock
and the GMC's been just about as high and in just about as hot as it
gets. I would NEVER run the output from an electric pump into a
mechanical pump. Nor would I run one without a low oil pressure
cutoff switch -- despite the fact that those tend to fail open from
time to time.
My pump choice is the Carter 4070. It's reasonably priced and I've
never had one fail. (I DID have a Holley red pump fail -- literally
melted down -- never again.) Supposedly their outputs can be directly
connected but I chose to tee two check valves, something like this:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#cadinlnord/7768k63/=htdaiv
Now that I've gone to EFI, those same pumps supply fuel to a "surge
tank" from which the high pressure pump is supplied.
Bottom line: I wouldn't bother with all the complications of a fuel
regulator -- go straight to two 4070's and remove the mechanical pump.
HTH,
Ken H.
On Sun, Jun 3, 2012 at 3:35 AM, steve & debbie wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
> Was looking up sosme stuff regarding, OEM fuel pump in the 455 engine. A few reports of the PSI on some fuel pumps being above the recommended range. I then noticed you could get adjustable Fuel pressure regulators. Well me being me, i wanted to ask you guys, what are the pros's and con's of this. Also i want to fit 2 fuel pumps later on, one running from each tank, via the tank selector switch. What is the pressure that a well set up carb is expecting, and if that pressure is much higher does that result in any problems. Have any of you removed the OEM engine fuel pump?, replacing with electric pumps. Sorry for so many questions here  :(
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Ken Henderson
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www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator / electric pump etc [message #171867 is a reply to message #171834] |
Sun, 03 June 2012 10:21 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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I ran a VW van for years and miles on a cheap adjustable regulator set for like 1 1/2 psi. Worked fine. It was even chromed.
--johnny
'76 23' transmode norris
'76 palm beach
From: steve & debbie <zzdebz@yahoo.com>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Sunday, June 3, 2012 3:35 AM
Subject: [GMCnet] Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator / electric pump etc
Hello,
Was looking up sosme stuff regarding, OEM fuel pump in the 455 engine. A few reports of the PSI on some fuel pumps being above the recommended range. I then noticed you could get adjustable Fuel pressure regulators. Well me being me, i wanted to ask you guys, what are the pros's and con's of this. Also i want to fit 2 fuel pumps later on, one running from each tank, via the tank selector switch. What is the pressure that a well set up carb is expecting, and if that pressure is much higher does that result in any problems. Have any of you removed the OEM engine fuel pump?, replacing with electric pumps. Sorry for so many questions here :(
cheers and beers
--
Steve & Debbie
Monticello, FL
77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
EX G4WDT
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Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: [GMCnet] Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator / electric pump etc [message #171891 is a reply to message #171867] |
Sun, 03 June 2012 13:12 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Just a word of caution on adjustable pressure regulators. The ones that
have a dial about the size of a 50 cent piece, that can be turned with the
hand to adjust the pressure are an underhood fire looking for a place to
happen. The seals around the adjustment dial can and do fail and leak
gasoline onto hot engine surfaces. This will wreck your day, and could cost
you your GMC, and in the worst case your life. Far better to buy a good
Holley one that the adjustment is under a tapered plug. The holley one I
think I saw in an old Summit Racing catalog. They are spendy. As to your
question regarding pressure, 3 1/2 to 4 psi will work on a Quadrajet. I
wouldn't use much more than that.
Jim Hupy
Salem, OR
78 GMC Royale 403
On Sun, Jun 3, 2012 at 8:21 AM, Johnny Bridges <jhbridges@ymail.com> wrote:
> I ran a VW van for years and miles on a cheap adjustable regulator set for
> like 1 1/2 psi. Worked fine. It was even chromed.
>
> --johnny
> '76 23' transmode norris
> '76 palm beach
>
>
> From: steve & debbie <zzdebz@yahoo.com>
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Sent: Sunday, June 3, 2012 3:35 AM
> Subject: [GMCnet] Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator / electric pump etc
>
>
>
> Hello,
> Was looking up sosme stuff regarding, OEM fuel pump in the 455 engine. A
> few reports of the PSI on some fuel pumps being above the recommended
> range. I then noticed you could get adjustable Fuel pressure regulators.
> Well me being me, i wanted to ask you guys, what are the pros's and con's
> of this. Also i want to fit 2 fuel pumps later on, one running from each
> tank, via the tank selector switch. What is the pressure that a well set up
> carb is expecting, and if that pressure is much higher does that result in
> any problems. Have any of you removed the OEM engine fuel pump?, replacing
> with electric pumps. Sorry for so many questions here :(
>
> cheers and beers
>
>
> --
> Steve & Debbie
> Monticello, FL
> 77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
> EX G4WDT
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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>
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| Re: [GMCnet] Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator / electric pump etc [message #171896 is a reply to message #171847] |
Sun, 03 June 2012 13:52 |
glacierfl
Messages: 444
Registered: June 2011
Karma: 0
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Hello Ken,
I assume if you remove the Mechanical pump then you need to add a block off plate??. The electric pump you mention, is it alchohol resistant. I know some of the materials used pre ethanol will rot etc. Rebuilding our coach 'slow but sure'!!. So i want to future proof it as much as possible. I believe that pushing fuel towards the carb will help with the vapour lock problem, as opposed to pulling fuel.I guess the OEM pump pulls fuel, so would that essentially mean that the OEM pump could be part cause of vapour lock. Planning to drive around higher elevations, and hot areas, so vapour lock is going to become a potential problem. I would like to be able to monitor fuel pressure. I guess some kind of take off point just before the carb might be a good place for such a connection?. Although it was mentioned, that is an added potential for a leak. Another thought perhaps off topic is the use of a fuel water filter. Could that help to remove some of the water build up in the tanks???.Umm perhaps a stupid idea....
cheers and beers
Steve & Debbie
Monticello, FL
77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
EX G4WDT
[Updated on: Sun, 03 June 2012 13:53] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: [GMCnet] Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator / electric pump etc [message #171897 is a reply to message #171896] |
Sun, 03 June 2012 14:06 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Steve,
Yes, if you remove the mechanical pump you need a block-off plate --
readily available from many sources or easily fabricated. Or, if
you're not a purist, just leave the disconnected pump in place --
though it can make a little noise as it continues to pump air.
I'm sure any current production pump is ethanol resistant; if not, the
manufacturer would be plagued with warranty claims. I've never had
ANY problem with a 4070 during the 12 years I've used at least one.
I've had very bad results with fuel pressure gauges, probably because
I've installed them without pulsation dampers (snubbers or restrictive
orifices). I've had the needles quit moving on 3 of them, had one of
them spring a serious leak right above the exhaust manifold, and now
have an electric sender which quickly became highly erratic. I'll
never again leave a mechanical fuel pressure gauge in place, and will
install a damper in series with electrical senders.
Many do include water separators; I don't have one and have never had
any need of one, despite living in the humid SE US. I'd have to
periodically crawl under the coach to check for accumulated water or
it would be of no value. I'm too old for that hassle when I'm not
having a problem.
Ken H.
On Sun, Jun 3, 2012 at 2:52 PM, steve & debbie wrote:
>
>
> Hello Ken,
> I assume if you remove the Mechanical pump then you need to add a block off plate??. The electric pump you mention, it is alchohol resistant. I know some of the materials used pre ethanol will rot etc. Rebuilding our coach 'slow but sure'!!. So i want to future proof it as much as possible. I believe that pushing fuel towards the carb will help with the vapour lock problem, as opposed to pulling fuel.I guess the OEM pump pulls fuel, so would that essentially mean that the OEM pump could be part cause of vapour lock. Planning to drive around higher elevations, and hot areas, so vapour lock is going to become a potential problem. I would like to be able to monitor fuel pressure. I guess some kind of take off point just before the carb might be a good place for such a connection?. Although it was mentioned, that is an added potential for a leak. Another thought perhaps off topic is the use of a fuel water filter. Could that help to remove some of the water build up in the tank
s?
...
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator / electric pump etc [message #171904 is a reply to message #171897] |
Sun, 03 June 2012 17:17 |
glacierfl
Messages: 444
Registered: June 2011
Karma: 0
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Hello,
Not sure of the best optiom on the OEM pump. Thoughts are leave it in, as a sort of backup, in case something goes down on the electric side. Think i may fit a filter, to stop anything getting into the pump, as its still there but not connected. Points taken on gas spilling on engine, i dont wanna go there.....
I do want to be able to read some sort of pressure from fuel pump. So perhaps fitting a sensor just after the fuel pump, would suffice. Maybe make this as some sort of quick connect?, so you can see whats going on without having it constantly connected. As you guys say, the more connections the more problems that could occur. I shall purchase those pumps you mention, if they work for you, without problemns, then it's for me.
thanks guys :- cheers and beers
Steve & Debbie
Monticello, FL
77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
EX G4WDT
[Updated on: Sun, 03 June 2012 17:18] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: [GMCnet] Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator / electric pump etc [message #171908 is a reply to message #171905] |
Sun, 03 June 2012 17:43 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Bruce,
A while back I found on eBay a super price on a multi-color display
meter with sender -- Chinese, of course. It worked fine for a week or
two, then began to swing wildly.
I'm sure all of my meter problems have been caused by the very erratic
pressure from the E8228 pumps I was using, and the absence of a damper
in my plumbing. I'll soon get around to using an AutoMeter, or
aircraft-rated, sender and it WILL have a damper, even if I have make
it. :-)
Ken H.
On Sun, Jun 3, 2012 at 6:37 PM, Bruce Hislop wrote:
>
>
> Ken,
> What electronic fuel pressure sensor did you use? Â I installed an Autometer sensor and if I recall the opening into the sensor is very small, I suspect for damping.
>
> However like all digital readings, the EBL WUD can vary 1/2 psi. Â I should up the filter setting on it, but never think of it when I have the computer hooked up to it.
>
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Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator / electric pump etc [message #171948 is a reply to message #171896] |
Mon, 04 June 2012 02:33 |
mickeysss
Messages: 1476
Registered: January 2012
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Ken burton states 4psi is best for the carb. i think it was, He seems to know more than anyone else here or seems that way to me. sorry rob,
you two should start your own spacex company if you ask me.
I watch my vac gauge and it works best with just the mech gas pump, i think i use less gas with just it. It is sort of starved for gas more, the over load with the higher psi, the vac gauge seems to not work as well using more gas. i think.
If the fuel can get to much pressure and push to much gas this is as bad as not getting enough or worse, it is going into the crank case someone stated,, It seems from my reading here that robs design of putting the fuel pump only on the aux tank behind tank switch from the drivers seat side between the tanks at the switch on the rear drivers frame area, with the switch to the aux turning on the electric pump as well as the aux tank turning off the the main tank. Also do not go into hills with less than a full tank, or tanks. !!!! they are trap happy.
This seems to have
1. stops the gas from turning into a vapor from heat and pushes liquid and saves you from engine stalling on a steep hill and stopping the engine and the brakes going out with no vac and going off a cliff. This is my night mare for i have to drive in the santa clara hills soon. I need another vac. pump, or a vac, tank to brake when the gas stops. Back to the real thread i think. the mech pump seems to have the right psi, what is that psi.(4psi) the electric pump to the aux tank is back up for back in the future take off. right. then the lightening strikes and your over the hill and it stalls and no brakes going forward now.
When i go in the hills i am going to call AAA for a flat bed and lay in the middle of it. What electric pump is best, and where to wire it and to put it for the aux tank only and where should the filters be always behind the electric pump i thinnk, and of course behind the mech pump that is the main pump for the main tank only all the time unless you feel a sputtering and you hit the aux tank on and it turns on the electric pump and pushes fuel out of vapor lock and the brakes work and you do not go down the hill backwards about 90 miles an hour with no brakes, is this the game plan. sort of. M. regards.
what pump to use, where to put the filters, where are the wiring spots to do aux only for the electric pump design. What hose to use.
how many cans of beer to put it in. these are the main answers to the questions. a problem well stated is a problem solved.
I think i will have an irish whiskey and think about it some more. cheers!
On Jun 3, 2012, at 11:52 AM, steve & debbie wrote:
>
>
> Hello Ken,
> I assume if you remove the Mechanical pump then you need to add a block off plate??. The electric pump you mention, it is alchohol resistant. I know some of the materials used pre ethanol will rot etc. Rebuilding our coach 'slow but sure'!!. So i want to future proof it as much as possible. I believe that pushing fuel towards the carb will help with the vapour lock problem, as opposed to pulling fuel.I guess the OEM pump pulls fuel, so would that essentially mean that the OEM pump could be part cause of vapour lock. Planning to drive around higher elevations, and hot areas, so vapour lock is going to become a potential problem. I would like to be able to monitor fuel pressure. I guess some kind of take off point just before the carb might be a good place for such a connection?. Although it was mentioned, that is an added potential for a leak. Another thought perhaps off topic is the use of a fuel water filter. Could that help to remove some of the water build up in the tank
s?
> ??.Umm perhaps a stupid idea....
>
> cheers and beers
> --
> Steve & Debbie
> Monticello, FL
> 77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
> EX G4WDT
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: [GMCnet] Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator / electric pump etc [message #171953 is a reply to message #171948] |
Mon, 04 June 2012 04:29 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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| mickeysss wrote on Mon, 04 June 2012 02:33 |
Ken burton states 4psi is best for the carb. i think it was, He seems to know more than anyone else here or seems that way to me. sorry rob,
|
Ken Burton is only repeating what he has heard or read elsewhere and is occasionally wrong. Do not believe everything you hear from him.
I have heard 3 numbers. 4 to 6 PSI, 3 to 7 PSI, and 5 to 7 PSI.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator / electric pump etc [message #171955 is a reply to message #171953] |
Mon, 04 June 2012 05:15 |
mickeysss
Messages: 1476
Registered: January 2012
Karma: 0
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ok, i think 9 is high and is to much, i get the feeling from my vac meter. I was told mine was 9, it also reads that way on ebay in the info area.
i would say the mech. pump is the right pressure if it came on it,
and i can feel it in the vac meter. It uses less gas and is the right pressure, i can see the electric pump
is over kill, but on the aux tank only switch from way back in the back, like rob has it only when you hit the switch and most the time you fill up -
get gas before you use that tank anyway, this seems to be a good middle ground and area of use for vapor lock as well as
going up and down hills keeping your tanks full, so it works. If that engine dies no brakes, this is the most dangerous part of this vehicle,
all three of your numbers is not 9psi. two pounds more is a lot of weight to push into a little carb area. I am going to take my electric off completely
and put it back like robs as soon as i get the time, i am not sure how he wired it but it seems it is the screw for the wiring for the aux tank
opening switch. where is this screw to wire the positive too?
The aux is the front tank though, so i am a little lost as well as anyone else to what to do. thanks for your info mickey :-)
It is great to work out the clean ideas for how to make this great wagon work, thanks for your help. as well as rob, i have learned so much
from reading all of the people here. I hope to keep doing it to get it right, for these rigs are the best motor homes in the world systemic-ly
way ahead of the others with the front wheel drive and light weight. That alone wins the contest. It is a hot rod and thanks to jim k and jim b
as well as all the other rat autos for trying to help. It makes us all happy to have such a great group of people that champion this great
vehicle. the mouse. Really thanks to you all for we are all one rodent big family on here around the greatest dam rv in the world.
you got to love. it. some of us can't sleep and end up stuck on here late at night, sorry. Thanks for all these sites, it is amazing,
donate and help these great venders and internet sites. with out them we would have no clue what to do. or i would not.. thank you.
the mouse.
On Jun 4, 2012, at 2:30 AM, Ken Burton wrote:
>
>
> mickeysss wrote on Mon, 04 June 2012 02:33
>> Ken burton states 4psi is best for the carb. i think it was, He seems to know more than anyone else here or seems that way to me. sorry rob,
>
> Ken Burton is only repeating what he has heard or read elsewhere and is occasionally wrong. Do not believe everything you hear from him.
>
> I have heard 3 numbers. 4 to 6 PSI, 3 to 7 PSI, and 5 to 7 PSI.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
> _______________________________________________
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| Re: [GMCnet] Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator / electric pump etc [message #171956 is a reply to message #171953] |
Mon, 04 June 2012 06:23 |
 |
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Ditto for Rob! ;-)
My hearing is a bit better than Ken's but I think my memory is a bit worse,
I can't remember.
And above all else definitely DO NOT believe Rob if he ever says ANYTHING
about anything electrical or electronic stuff!
He is totally electrically challenged! In non politically correct speak,
he's a dummy!
Regards,
You know who!
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Burton
mickeysss wrote on Mon, 04 June 2012 02:33
> Ken burton states 4psi is best for the carb. i think it was, He seems to
know more than anyone else here or seems that way to me. sorry rob,
Ken Burton is only repeating what he has heard or read elsewhere and is
occasionally wrong. Do not believe everything you hear from him.
I have heard 3 numbers. 4 to 6 PSI, 3 to 7 PSI, and 5 to 7 PSI.
--
Ken
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator / electric pump etc [message #171960 is a reply to message #171955] |
Mon, 04 June 2012 06:32 |
Carleton Douglas[1]
Messages: 174
Registered: March 2006
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Ken, would you tell us about the damper you are going to install in
your fuel system? At the present time I am re-plumbing my fuel system
after cutting the bottoms out of the tanks and welding new bottoms
with a 1 inch deep well 6 inch in dia. for the in tank pumps. The
bottoms looked like someone shot them with a shotgun.
Are you thinking about just an accumulator or something fancy?
On Mon, Jun 4, 2012 at 3:16 AM, mickey's space ship shuttle
<mickeysss@me.com> wrote:
>
> ok, i think 9 is high and is to much, i get the feeling from my vac meter. I was told mine was 9, it also reads that way on ebay in the info area.
>
> i would say the mech. pump is the right pressure if it came on it,
>
> and i can feel it in the vac meter. It uses less gas and is the right pressure, i can see the electric pump
>
> is over kill, but on the aux tank only switch from way back in the back, like rob has it only when you hit the switch and most the time you fill up -
>
> get gas before you use that tank anyway, this seems to be a good middle ground and area of use for vapor lock as well as
>
> going up and down hills keeping your tanks full, so it works. If that engine dies no brakes, this is the most dangerous part of this vehicle,
>
> all three of your numbers is not 9psi. two pounds more is a lot of weight to push into a little carb area. I am going to take my electric off completely
>
> and put it back like robs as soon as i get the time, i am not sure how he wired it but it seems it is the screw for the wiring for the aux tank
>
> opening switch. where is this screw to wire the positive too?
>
> The aux is the front tank though, so i am a little lost as well as anyone else to what to do. thanks for your info mickey :-)
>
> It is great to work out the clean ideas for how to make this great wagon work, thanks for your help. as well as rob, i have learned so much
>
> from reading all of the people here. I hope to keep doing it to get it right, for these rigs are the best motor homes in the world systemic-ly
>
> way ahead of the others with the front wheel drive and light weight. That alone wins the contest. It is a hot rod and thanks to jim k and jim b
>
> as well as all the other rat autos for trying to help. It makes us all happy to have such a great group of people that champion this great
>
> vehicle. the mouse. Really thanks to you all for we are all one rodent big family on here around the greatest dam rv in the world.
>
> you got to love. it. some of us can't sleep and end up stuck on here late at night, sorry. Thanks for all these sites, it is amazing,
>
> donate and help these great venders and internet sites. with out them we would have no clue what to do. or i would not.. thank you.
>
> the mouse.
>
> On Jun 4, 2012, at 2:30 AM, Ken Burton wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> mickeysss wrote on Mon, 04 June 2012 02:33
>>> Ken burton states 4psi is best for the carb. i think it was, He seems to know more than anyone else here or seems that way to me. sorry rob,
>>
>> Ken Burton is only repeating what he has heard or read elsewhere and is occasionally wrong. Do not believe everything you hear from him.
>>
>> I have heard 3 numbers. 4 to 6 PSI, 3 to 7 PSI, and 5 to 7 PSI.
>> --
>> Ken Burton - N9KB
>> 76 Palm Beach
>> Hebron, Indiana
>> _______________________________________________
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> _______________________________________________
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--
Carleton Douglas
73 custom, by myself
Prescott, AZ
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| Re: [GMCnet] Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator / electric pump etc [message #171964 is a reply to message #171960] |
Mon, 04 June 2012 07:12 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Carleton,
Apparently the damper for a fuel pressure gauge only needs to be a small
orifice between the source and the gauge or sender. I haven't gotten into
the details yet. If I have to make one, I'll somehow plug a coupling and
then drill a progressively larger hole in it until I get adequate response
without fluttering.
They do sell isolation devices that allow the use of mechanical gauges in
the cockpit. That seems to me an unnecessarily complex way of solving the
problem.
Your tank repair & modification was certainly an ambitious undertaking!
More than I'd be willing to ask my welder to do, and I'm certainly not
capable of it. I'm curious as to how you'll get the last 1" of fuel into
the ring around the in-tank pumps; won't there still be about 1/6-1/5 of
the tank's capacity unavailable?
Ken H.
On Mon, Jun 4, 2012 at 7:32 AM, Carleton Douglas wrote:
> Ken, would you tell us about the damper you are going to install in
> your fuel system? At the present time I am re-plumbing my fuel system
> after cutting the bottoms out of the tanks and welding new bottoms
> with a 1 inch deep well 6 inch in dia. for the in tank pumps. The
> bottoms looked like someone shot them with a shotgun.
>
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
|
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| Re: [GMCnet] Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator / electric pump etc [message #171966 is a reply to message #171964] |
Mon, 04 June 2012 07:23 |
Carleton Douglas[1]
Messages: 174
Registered: March 2006
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Ken, the ring is lower than the tank bottom, so fuel should run into it.
I understand what you are talking about now on the gage.
Thanks,
On Mon, Jun 4, 2012 at 5:12 AM, Ken Henderson <hend4800@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Carleton,
>
> Apparently the damper for a fuel pressure gauge only needs to be a small
> orifice between the source and the gauge or sender. I haven't gotten into
> the details yet. If I have to make one, I'll somehow plug a coupling and
> then drill a progressively larger hole in it until I get adequate response
> without fluttering.
>
> They do sell isolation devices that allow the use of mechanical gauges in
> the cockpit. That seems to me an unnecessarily complex way of solving the
> problem.
>
> Your tank repair & modification was certainly an ambitious undertaking!
> More than I'd be willing to ask my welder to do, and I'm certainly not
> capable of it. I'm curious as to how you'll get the last 1" of fuel into
> the ring around the in-tank pumps; won't there still be about 1/6-1/5 of
> the tank's capacity unavailable?
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 4, 2012 at 7:32 AM, Carleton Douglas wrote:
>
>> Ken, would you tell us about the damper you are going to install in
>> your fuel system? At the present time I am re-plumbing my fuel system
>> after cutting the bottoms out of the tanks and welding new bottoms
>> with a 1 inch deep well 6 inch in dia. for the in tank pumps. The
>> bottoms looked like someone shot them with a shotgun.
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
--
Carleton Douglas
73 custom, by myself
Prescott, AZ
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