Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Foam insulation removal
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Foam insulation removal [message #171147 is a reply to message #171142] |
Mon, 28 May 2012 21:15   |
glacierfl
Messages: 444
Registered: June 2011
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Hello,
The following worked for me.
I found the best way was to use a metal scraper. Around 2 inch seemed to work best. A solid one works better, as it will tend to bend after a while. If you use the blade of the scraper to make criss cross patterns this seemed for me at least to make it come off easier. The smaller pieces seem to come off a lot easier. Oh and you will need plenty of elbow grease...
Good luck with that job.
cheers and beers
Steve & Debbie
Monticello, FL
77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
EX G4WDT
[Updated on: Mon, 28 May 2012 21:15] Report message to a moderator |
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Foam insulation removal [message #171149 is a reply to message #171142] |
Mon, 28 May 2012 21:17 |
Jim Miller
Messages: 501
Registered: March 2008
Karma: 10
|
Senior Member |
|
|
On May 28, 2012, at 9:46 PM, Rick wrote:
> Any suggestions for the easiest way to remove the yellow spray foam insulation in the walls?
Dremel (or equivalent) multi-max tool with fine-tooth rectangular blade. With a little practice one can zip the spray foam right off the aluminum.
> And recommendations for the best insulation to replace it with and method of attaching it?
We replaced mine with foil-backed polyisocyanurate (Dow Super Tuff-R).... one piece 1/2" thick and one 3/4" thick will perfectly fill the aluminum body extrusions. Cut the piece to size, take an x-acto knife and rip down the center (without cutting completely through) and break in half like a hinge. Hook it behind the extrusions and close the hinge to force it into place. The edges of the extrusion will hold it captive. No adhesives needed other than perhaps some silver foil tape over top of your hinge cut.
Using a 1/2" piece and a 3/4" piece will give you R-8 insulation value with a perfectly flat surface to cover with FRP or your other favorite wall/ceiling covering.
My "Ceiling Replacement" photo gallery at :
http://www.jcmco.com/gallery/gmc
...shows how we did it.
--Jim
1977 Eleganza II
1977 Royale
Hamilton, Ohio
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Jim Miller
1977 Eleganza II
1977 Royale
Hamilton, OH
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Foam insulation removal [message #171150 is a reply to message #171147] |
Mon, 28 May 2012 21:21 |
Rick
Messages: 36
Registered: September 2010
Location: Ft. Worth
Karma: 0
|
Member |
|
|
That sounds like the best plan, I have plenty of elbow grease!
Any worries denting the outside walls when scrapping? Guess I'm not sure how thick the 'skin' is.
Cheers,
Rick Drummond
Prior Lake MN
1974 (re-)Painted Desert 26'
TZE064V100077
Photos: http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/u18085-r-drummond.html
Email: RandTs.GMC@gmail.com
On May 28, 2012, at 9:15 PM, steve & debbie <zzdebz@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
> The following worked for me.
>
> I found the best way was to use a metal scraper. Around 2 inch seemed to work best. A solid one works beter, as it will tend to bend after a while. If you use the blade of the scraper to make criss cross patterns this seemed for me at least to make it come off easier. The smaller pieces seem to come off a lot easier. Oh and you will need plenty of elbow grease...
> Good luck with that job.
>
> cheers and beers
>
> --
> Steve & Debbie
> Monticello, FL
> 77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
> EX G4WDT
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Rick Does Ft. Worth Tx
1976 Glenbrook "Some Assembly Required"
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Foam insulation removal [message #171152 is a reply to message #171150] |
Mon, 28 May 2012 21:34 |
glacierfl
Messages: 444
Registered: June 2011
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Hello,
I did hit the metal walls in places. This did not seem to make any kind of indent. But yes be careful as it must be possible to dent the Alum and that would not be very asthetically pleasing.... Try and maintain an angle that does not dig into the walls. You may find in places around the edges that you come up against the adhesive that was used to glue the panels on. Maybe tackle that differently so you do not break any bonds that exist between the panels and the structure. It is easy to do so dont worry.
cheers and beers
Steve & Debbie
Monticello, FL
77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
EX G4WDT
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Foam insulation removal [message #171161 is a reply to message #171142] |
Mon, 28 May 2012 22:43 |
noi
Messages: 293
Registered: October 2010
Location: South of Fremont
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Rick,
We used thick metal “putty knives” for scrapping out all our foam as well – For me, I found a 1” one worked best – Unlike Steve, we did not “score” the foam in a criss cross manner, mostly because it did not occur to me to do so - In retrospect, might have made the job go easier.
I stared in a “thinnish” area of foam and just sorta “worried” the foam away down to metal – Then I cleaned about a 2” square of foam away – After that, I just pushed the scrapper under the foam about 1/2 a blade length and then lever lifted it up – Thus “popping” that section of foam off.
I found that the “thin” foam was hardest to get off, as it formed a very hard ‘crust’ that was difficult to get through and off – The foam that was 1/2" to 3/4" thick was the least difficult to get off as the scrapper would go underneath it fairly easy and it “popped” off fairly nicely – Foam thicker was OK to get under, but more difficult to “pop” off – So had to take smaller “bites” in those sections.
We hit the metal walls in places as well – But the result was mostly gouged metal and we did not see any problems with outside dents – But use caution none the less.
One thing I did find that, after scrapping off some of the foam areas, there was a “scum” left behind that was difficult to scrape off – If you are VERY carefully, it can be scrapped off with a small sharp 1” wood chisel – Though I must admit…. I only did that because I COULD, not because I NEEDED to.... 
One other hint, which may/may not apply to your job – Start with the aluminum walls first – I started with the lower fiberglass panels and it vastly distorted my perception on how easy the job was going to be! – I found that the foam was really easy to scrap off the fiberglass and thought the rest would go that way as well.... NOT
And if you decide to do the ceiling as well…. It comes off pretty much as the walls do, just much harder having to work with your hands over your head all the time.
Here is a picture of about 1/4 of the way through foam removal:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/stuff/p44336-foam-removal.html
But overall, we found the foam removal to be a very “doable” job – And while it took a while to complete, it was actually kinda fun – Yah, I know, a distorted idea of “fun” 
But overall, I found
Anyway – JWID
Carl P.
76 Birchaven
South of Fremont
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Foam insulation removal [message #171166 is a reply to message #171163] |
Mon, 28 May 2012 23:01 |
zhagrieb
Messages: 676
Registered: August 2009
Location: Portland Oregon
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
The mult tool with a scraper blade does an excellent job and quite quickly. Harbor Freight has the cheapest, Lowes, Home Depot, etc have several brands.
Glenn Giere, Portland OR, K7GAG
'73 "Moby the Motorhome" 26'
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Foam insulation removal [message #171463 is a reply to message #171142] |
Wed, 30 May 2012 22:32 |
Adrien G.
Messages: 474
Registered: May 2008
Location: Burns Flat, OK 73624
Karma: 1
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Rick,
I started trying to leave the OEM foam and shaving it smooth (with a router), then add what I could. That made a really big mess on me and everywhere and also time consuming.
So I went to scrapping, and in about a day and a half was done scrapping.
The depth space is 1-1/2". I used 2 layers of 3/4" foam to equal 1-1/2" (couldn't get 1-1/2") and used can foam to glue the foam to skin and between layers. I didn't want to chance having squeaks and other noises when going down the road, and know the amount of work it would take to fix the problem. Better a little more work now, then sorry later.
I used some camping dinning canopy poles to put some pressure on the panels, to overcome the foam expansion to push the foam sheet out more then the rib surface.
When done, the interior temp will still get warm but nothing like it was. The OEM AC should be able to do a pretty good job of keeping the interior livable.
Just food for thought.
Adrien & Jenny Genesoto
75 Glenbrook (26-3) Mods LS3.70 FD / Reaction Sys / 80mm Front&Intermidiate / Hydroboost / 16" Tires / Frame Rebuild / Interior Rebuild
Yuba City,Ca. Text 530-nine-3-three-3-nine-nine-6
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Foam Insulation Removal [message #211274 is a reply to message #171142] |
Sun, 16 June 2013 13:50 |
Ek_Lektro
Messages: 167
Registered: March 2011
Karma: 2
|
Senior Member |
|
|
> Yes, that is zink chromate primer. See the following:
> http://www.colorserver.net/history/history-zinc-chromate.htm
Apparently zinc chromate is quite carcinogenic, so definitely at least wear a basic mask when scraping away the foam (or maybe a respirator!)....
I'll never know what might've triggered my acute (APL) leukemia in 2008, and if it was at all related to the Eleganza paint prep we did in 2007; but worth noting...
(5 years in remission, and not taking anything for granted!)
So now, re-doing the Birchhaven,... I'm wondering if it might be a good idea to spray some basic (non-carcinogenic) primer over the zinc chromate, before putting in the new foil-backed insulation? the old foam is 95% scraped-away, which is good enough to fit in the new insulation... no need to scrape away every last bit. It seems doubtful that any of the nasty stuff would get airborne, from behind the new insulation layer, but..., i suppose i'm a bit paranoid of the stuff.
Also, thinking of going with a thinner layer of foil-backed foam, to reflect the heat, plus a layer of "soundboard", to minimize the noise. Yes, this combo is gonna make for twice as much work (twice as much cutting, and harder to affix), but its gonna be a mobile studio after-all! So.. If there are any other recommendations for materials that can both reflect both the heat from the outside AS WELL AS minimize noise (usually from our studio speakers... from traveling outside), please let me know,.. Thanks! (Also trying to come up with an inventive way to cover the windows when we are in "studio mode"... something more beefy than the foil/bubble-wrap stuff)...
> Is that primer/paint on the aluminum under the foam?
Greg / Los Angeles
'78 Eleganza II SolarSonic 990 watts
'76 Birchhaven 21-footer 520 watts
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Foam Insulation Removal [message #211295 is a reply to message #211274] |
Sun, 16 June 2013 18:21 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I must be lucky. We sprayed zinc chromate all over parts we put on airplanes at repair. Didn't know any better, I suppose.
--johnny
'76 23' transmode norris
'76 palm beach
From: Ek_Lektro <eklektro@gmail.com>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 2:50 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Foam Insulation Removal
> Yes, that is zink chromate primer. See the following:
> http://www.colorserver.net/history/history-zinc-chromate.htm
Apparently zinc chromate is quite carcinogenic, so definitely at least wear a basic mask when scraping away the foam (or maybe a respirator!)....
I'll never know what might've triggered my acute (APL) leukemia in 2008, and if it was at all related to the Eleganza paint prep we did in 2007; but worth noting...
(5 years in remission, and not taking anything for granted!)
So now, re-doing the Birchhaven,... I'm wondering if it might be a good idea to spray some basic (non-carcinogenic) primer over the zinc chromate, before putting in the new foil-backed insulation? the old foam is 95% scraped-away, which is good enough to fit in the new insulation... no need to scrape away every last bit. It seems doubtful that any of the nasty stuff would get airborne, from behind the new insulation layer, but..., i suppose i'm a bit paranoid of the stuff.
Also, thinking of going with a thinner layer of foil-backed foam, to reflect the heat, plus a layer of "soundboard", to minimize the noise. Yes, this combo is gonna make for twice as much work (twice as much cutting, and harder to affix), but its gonna be a mobile studio after-all! So.. If there are any other recommendations for materials that can both reflect both the heat from the outside AS WELL AS minimize noise (usually from our studio speakers... from traveling outside), please let me know,.. Thanks! (Also trying to come up with an inventive way to cover the windows when we are in "studio mode"... something more beefy than the foil/bubble-wrap stuff)...
> Is that primer/paint on the aluminum under the foam?
Greg / Los Angeles
'78 Eleganza II SolarSonic 990 watts
'76 Birchhaven 21-footer 520 watts
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Foam Insulation Removal [message #211359 is a reply to message #211295] |
Mon, 17 June 2013 09:36 |
Jp Benson
Messages: 649
Registered: October 2011
Location: Fla
Karma: 2
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Lots of folks choose to remove the factory insulation and then reinsulate. In my restoration project, that is one thing that I intend not to do. I will add some microfoil to increase insulation and sound dampening. The original foam feels solid and as many can attest it still adheres well. So in addition to all the work of R & R we have health risks associated with zinc chromate dust. So my question is: how much benefit is there to replacing the insulation?
JP
>________________________________
> From: Johnny Bridges <jhbridges@ymail.com>
>To: "gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org" <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
>Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 7:21 PM
>Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Foam Insulation Removal
>
>
>I must be lucky. We sprayed zinc chromate all over parts we put on airplanes at repair. Didn't know any better, I suppose.
>
>--johnny
>'76 23' transmode norris
>'76 palm beach
>
>From: Ek_Lektro <eklektro@gmail.com>
>To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
>Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 2:50 PM
>Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Foam Insulation Removal
>
>
>
>> Yes, that is zink chromate primer. See the following:
>> http://www.colorserver.net/history/history-zinc-chromate.htm
>
>
>Apparently zinc chromate is quite carcinogenic, so definitely at least wear a basic mask when scraping away the foam (or maybe a respirator!)....
>I'll never know what might've triggered my acute (APL) leukemia in 2008, and if it was at all related to the Eleganza paint prep we did in 2007; but worth noting...
>(5 years in remission, and not taking anything for granted!)
>
>So now, re-doing the Birchhaven,... I'm wondering if it might be a good idea to spray some basic (non-carcinogenic) primer over the zinc chromate, before putting in the new foil-backed insulation? the old foam is 95% scraped-away, which is good enough to fit in the new insulation... no need to scrape away every last bit. It seems doubtful that any of the nasty stuff would get airborne, from behind the new insulation layer, but..., i suppose i'm a bit paranoid of the stuff.
>
>Also, thinking of going with a thinner layer of foil-backed foam, to reflect the heat, plus a layer of "soundboard", to minimize the noise. Yes, this combo is gonna make for twice as much work (twice as much cutting, and harder to affix), but its gonna be a mobile studio after-all! So.. If there are any other recommendations for materials that can both reflect both the heat from the outside AS WELL AS minimize noise (usually from our studio speakers... from traveling outside), please let me know,.. Thanks! (Also trying to come up with an inventive way to cover the windows when we are in "studio mode"... something more beefy than the foil/bubble-wrap stuff)...
>
>> Is that primer/paint on the aluminum under the foam?
>
>Greg / Los Angeles
>'78 Eleganza II SolarSonic 990 watts
>'76 Birchhaven 21-footer 520 watts
>
>_______________________________________________
>GMCnet mailing list
>Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>_______________________________________________
>GMCnet mailing list
>Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
Goto Forum:
Current Time: Thu Oct 03 17:44:48 CDT 2024
Total time taken to generate the page: 0.01336 seconds
|
GMCforum
Search
Help
Register
Login
Home
