| [GMCnet] Glue for 12 ton jack stands... [message #170566] |
Tue, 22 May 2012 18:37  |
Robin Hood
Messages: 1078
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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I finally have some time off! Woot!
I experimented and built one of those 12 ton jack stands out of 2x4s.
I bought 2 12 foot sticks and that was enough for one jack stand with
some left over. I see in the pictures he (midlf? Whoozat in real
life?) uses Liquid Nails in a toothpaste looking tube. I bought some
"construction adhesive" that goes in a caulk gun.
There are a zillion different gooey glooey options. Is there a
particular type of glue I should use, or avoid? What about "wood glue"
which seems like sort of an obvious one to use.
I also didn't use any nails or screws, they're just a great big ol'
pyramid all glued together. In the write-up he made it sound like the
nails were sort of an afterthought to hold it while the glue dried. I
don't know enough about the properties of sticking things together
with adhesives to know whether they hold better than nails do. I was
thinking "what about some sort of sheer load?" but a nail or screw can
be sheered as well.
In any case, I'm going to Lowes tomorrow to buy enough of SOMETHING to
do 11 more of these things, since I have two GMCs I have to lift off
the ground at the same time. So what should I buy? Dammit Jim, I'm a
lawyer not an engineer/carpenter! :)
--
Robin Hood
Jackson, MS
2003 Buick Lesabre
1968 Pontiac Catalina
1978 GMC Royale motorhome
1977 GMC Palm Beach motorhome
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| Re: [GMCnet] Glue for 12 ton jack stands... [message #170574 is a reply to message #170566] |
Tue, 22 May 2012 19:38  |
midlf
Messages: 2212
Registered: July 2007
Location: SE Wisc. (Palmyra)
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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| Robin Hood wrote on Tue, 22 May 2012 18:37 |
I finally have some time off! Woot!
I experimented and built one of those 12 ton jack stands out of 2x4s.
I bought 2 12 foot sticks and that was enough for one jack stand with
some left over. I see in the pictures he (midlf? Whoozat in real
life?) uses Liquid Nails in a toothpaste looking tube. I bought some
"construction adhesive" that goes in a caulk gun.
There are a zillion different gooey glooey options. Is there a
particular type of glue I should use, or avoid? What about "wood glue"
which seems like sort of an obvious one to use.
|
Midlf = Steve Southworth
Any glue that comes in a tube for a caulk gun or in a tube like toothpaste is just fine. Whatever glue you use should have an ability to fill voids. Glue like Elmer's, white or yellow, does not have enough body to do that.
| Robin Hood wrote on Tue, 22 May 2012 18:37 |
I also didn't use any nails or screws, they're just a great big ol'
pyramid all glued together. In the write-up he made it sound like the
nails were sort of an afterthought to hold it while the glue dried. I
don't know enough about the properties of sticking things together
with adhesives to know whether they hold better than nails do. I was
thinking "what about some sort of sheer load?" but a nail or screw can
be sheered as well.
|
As you noted the nails are basically just to hold it together until the glue sets up. They do hold the wood pieces in close proximity to each other while the glue sets. This close proximity makes for a better glue joint. If you did not want to nail them then you should have them under pressure until the glue sets, perhaps by setting the MH on them. However then there is a high likelyhood you will have lateral slip as the glue can act like a lubricant until it sets up.
| Robin Hood wrote on Tue, 22 May 2012 18:37 |
In any case, I'm going to Lowe's tomorrow to buy enough of SOMETHING to
do 11 more of these things, since I have two GMCs I have to lift off
the ground at the same time. So what should I buy? Dammit Jim, I'm a
lawyer not an engineer/carpenter! 
--
Robin Hood
|
Hint - do the math to determine the per foot price of the 2X4's. You will probably find that shorter 2X4's are cheaper per foot. Also if they have a scrub or scrap pile at a reduced price, get those. You can use some of the worst looking 2X4's with splits, bark, worm holes or whatever and they still work fine. If these are going to be used for an extended period of time outdoors sitting on earth or stone, rather than pavement, I would make the bottom two layers out of treated lumber. If it is wet/humid and wood rot is a problem in your area I would use all treated lumber. If the ground is anywhere near soft, not crushed stone or similar, I've used 4 pieces for the first layer to get more ground contact.
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
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