| Electric Water Heater Malfunction [message #169317] |
Fri, 11 May 2012 22:20  |
SThornbg
Messages: 127
Registered: September 2011
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
The water heater does not work on our '77 PB with the Type 2 (round tank) unit. I have checked power to the unit, the continuity across the thermostat shows zero resistance so I assume that it is closed and operational. Continuity across the heating element is also zero resistance so I assume that to mean the element is bad /shorted out.
The heating element is the four bolt flange type. I have not been able to budge the bolts - two at the bottom are very rusty. I have soaked the bolts with Liquid Wrench penetrating oil.
I am hoping to be able to change the element without removing the water heater from under the b athroom counter.
I read Emory's post about the replacement element, but I need to shake this one loose before I worry about the replacement.
Any suggestions on how to remove the flange bolts without pulling the water heater out?
Steve Thornburg
South Bend, IN
77 PB 455 "Tinker Toy"
Steve Thornburg
South Bend, IN
77 exPB 455 "Tinker Toy"
|
|
|
|
| Re: Electric Water Heater Malfunction [message #169320 is a reply to message #169317] |
Fri, 11 May 2012 23:31  |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Steve,
Take some more readings with power on before you pull that heating element. The element should read only a couple tenths of an ohm so what you read is probably OK. If it were shorted it would trip the circuit breaker.
I'm thinking that there is not 120 volts across that element.
Ken B.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
|
|
|
|
| Re: Electric Water Heater Malfunction [message #169321 is a reply to message #169320] |
Sat, 12 May 2012 00:42 |
idrob
Messages: 645
Registered: January 2005
Location: Central Idaho
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
| Ken Burton wrote on Fri, 11 May 2012 21:31 |
Steve,
Take some more readings with power on before you pull that heating element. The element should read only a couple tenths of an ohm so what you read is probably OK. If it were shorted it would trip the circuit breaker.
I'm thinking that there is not 120 volts across that element.
Ken B.
|
I agree with Ken B. Check further prior to trying to pull the element.
Rob Allen
former owner of '76 x-PB
|
|
|
|
| Re: Electric Water Heater Malfunction [message #169322 is a reply to message #169321] |
Sat, 12 May 2012 01:51 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
|
Senior Member |
|
|
If you read 120 volts directly across the heat element and still have no heat then I will agree with you that the heating element it at fault. It would be failing OPEN, NOT shorted. Many times heating elements will open after power is applied. So please take some readings under power.
Ken B.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
|
|
|
|
| Re: Electric Water Heater Malfunction [message #169340 is a reply to message #169317] |
Sat, 12 May 2012 09:58 |
 |
Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
|
Senior Member |
|
|
| SThornbg wrote on Fri, 11 May 2012 23:20 |
The water heater does not work on our '77 PB with the Type 2 (round tank) unit. I have checked power to the unit, the continuity across the thermostat shows zero resistance so I assume that it is closed and operational. Continuity across the heating element is also zero resistance so I assume that to mean the element is bad /shorted out.
The heating element is the four bolt flange type. I have not been able to budge the bolts - two at the bottom are very rusty. I have soaked the bolts with Liquid Wrench penetrating oil.
I am hoping to be able to change the element without removing the water heater from under the b athroom counter.
I read Emory's post about the replacement element, but I need to shake this one loose before I worry about the replacement.
Any suggestions on how to remove the flange bolts without pulling the water heater out?
Steve Thornburg
South Bend, IN
77 PB 455 "Tinker Toy"
|
Steve,
First things First.
I hope you read KenB's not about testing for power.
If you get nothing, check the switch that is part of the receptacle in the bathroom. When I saw that in another coach I though it was a much better idea than earlier coaches that had that switch in the electric locker and ran romex back over the hall just to have the switch there. (I changed mine to power the WH from the switch.)
Are they not nuts on studs? They usually are. So, if/when you get them to move, but you have found out the the heater is still good, put anti-sieze on them so you won't have that fight when the heating element does go down. Just back them out one at a time, clean them, coat them and put each back in to full torque.
If you still need to get things apart, try heating with a torch (get things clear and be ready to extinguish fires) and cooling with ATF or PS fluid. I have found that to be an effective last ditch method. If that doesn't work, nothing non-destructive will work either. It can be done in that small a space.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Electric Water Heater Malfunction [message #169342 is a reply to message #169317] |
Sat, 12 May 2012 10:09 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Depending how you're measuring, the element may well read zero resistance, the value being substantially less than one Ohm. These elements usually fail to an open condition. Before you remove the element, assuming it isn't leaking, confirm there's A/C directly across its connections (carefully). If there is 110V there but no heat within a half hour or so, then you're justified in pulling the element. Lots of PB Blaster or equivalent. Time. Then they will usually break loose.
--johnny
'76 23' transmode norris
'76 palm beach
From: SThornbg <SThornbg@aol.com>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2012 11:20 PM
Subject: [GMCnet] Electric Water Heater Malfunction
The water heater does not work on our '77 PB with the Type 2 (round tank) unit. I have checked power to the unit, the continuity across the thermostat shows zero resistance so I assume that it is closed and operational. Continuity across the heating element is also zero resistance so I assume that to mean the element is bad /shorted out.
The heating element is the four bolt flange type. I have not been able to budge the bolts - two at the bottom are very rusty. I have soaked the bolts with Liquid Wrench penetrating oil.
I am hoping to be able to change the element without removing the water heater from under the b athroom counter.
I read Emory's post about the replacement element, but I need to shake this one loose before I worry about the replacement.
Any suggestions on how to remove the flange bolts without pulling the water heater out?
Steve Thornburg
South Bend, IN
77 PB 455 "Tinker Toy"
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Electric Water Heater Malfunction [message #169655 is a reply to message #169342] |
Mon, 14 May 2012 21:29 |
SThornbg
Messages: 127
Registered: September 2011
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Thanks again, folks. Thanks for redirecting my enthusiasm for ripping into my water heater heating element and thermostat. As it worked out, I changed the switch and reattached the black wire and the jumper to the thermostat and we have some serious hot water.......... Next in line is to find a new water leak.
Steve Thornburg
South Bend, IN
77 PB 455 "Tinker Toy"
Steve Thornburg
South Bend, IN
77 exPB 455 "Tinker Toy"
|
|
|
|
GMCforum
Search
Help
Register
Login
Home
