Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Onan Repair (Fixing annoying oil leaks)
| Onan Repair [message #165723] |
Sun, 08 April 2012 10:12  |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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My GMC project for this weekend has been fixing some oil leaks on my Onan. While replacing the LOP switch a few months ago, I noticed an apparent leak at the oil filter adapter. I stopped by my local Cummins/Onan repair center (Simonsen Generator Service, here in Tucson), and picked up the necessary gaskets. The owner, Eric Simonsen, recognized that the generator was a GMC Power Drawer from the 6.0 in the model number. He said that the other NH series Onans were rated at 6.5 KW, and the Power Drawer lost about 500 watts worth of horsepower to the flat intake manifold. I also asked him about the sealing ring around the oil filter and he said it is very important to have that in place for proper cooling, especially at full or near full load. Without that rubber ring, air is drawn in around the oil filter and bypasses the cooling fins on the adjacent head. I bought a new one of those too.
Eric told me I would need two gaskets for the oil filter adapter, since the mounting strap for the engine goes down between the engine block and the adapter. He said that the bottom nut is hard to get at and he used a distributor wrench to get at it. It worked very well. I had to disassemble the upper right mount and remove the mounting strap to replace the gasket behind it. After replacing those two gaskets, with the generator supported on a jack, I decided to remove the oil pan.
After reading Rob M's report of how expensive a new oil pan gasket is, I decided to try to remove the pan cleanly, try to separate the old gasket from the pan. and reuse it with a thin coat of RTV on both sides. So far, this strategy seems to be working, as I was able to remove the gasket, a rather robust rubber piece, without damage. I cleaned it and am currently soaking the pan and bolts in my parts washer. I hope to put it back together today sometime after the family Easter festivities.
I still need to find a proper sealing gasket/ring for the oil plug, which also had a small drip. Hopefully I will be able to take the plug to my auto parts store tomorrow and have them match one up to it.
I also plan to adjust the tappets. I was told that they could be adjusted with the engine running, but Eric said that is not possible, since the intake manifold needs to come off in order to gain access to the tappet covers. Upon looking at the top f the engine, I'm guessing he's right. I will take the manifold off and adjust the tappets cold as he suggested. Hopefully all this will make my Onan run a bit smoother. I de-carboned the heads when I first got the Motorhome three and a half years ago.
Have a Happy Easter!
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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| Re: Onan Repair [message #165757 is a reply to message #165723] |
Sun, 08 April 2012 13:55  |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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| Carl S. wrote on Sun, 08 April 2012 11:12 |
My GMC project for this weekend has been fixing some oil leaks on my Onan.
<snip>
After replacing those two gaskets, with the generator supported on a jack, I decided to remove the oil pan.
After reading Rob M's report of how expensive a new oil pan gasket is, I decided to try to remove the pan cleanly, try to separate the old gasket from the pan. and reuse it with a thin coat of RTV on both sides. So far, this strategy seems to be working, as I was able to remove the gasket, a rather robust rubber piece, without damage. I cleaned it and am currently soaking the pan and bolts in my parts washer. I hope to put it back together today sometime after the family Easter festivities.
<snip>
Have a Happy Easter!
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Carl,
Do not put RTV on both surfaces of the gasket. Actually, if it was not leaking before - Leave it alone-
Just put it back to together and don't over tighten it. It will be as good as it ever was.
If you had a small amount to leakage (seep, weep level), put RTV on the pan side and put it together at about 1/4~1/2 torque and wait a day to tighten it up. That will make the joint better than with a new gasket.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: Onan Repair [message #165767 is a reply to message #165757] |
Sun, 08 April 2012 15:02 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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Thanks Ken, I will consider the Pertronics mod. Probably not right now though. The Onan starts right up and runs well, it's just noisy and a little rough. I suspect having stable timing would help with the roughness, I'm hoping the valve adjustment will help with the noise.
Matt, I hope I didn't screw up too badly, but I had some time this morning and have already replaced the pan. The reason I put RTV on both sides of the gasket was twofold, #1, the gasket is rock hard. There is no compression left in it at all. It might as well be made of brass or copper. #2, I don't see any scenario where I would be removing the oil pan, ever again. I torqued the two 9/16" center bolts to 15 ft-lbs, and the 1/4" perimeter screws to 10 ft-lbs, just to make sure they were even. I still need to round up a gasket for the plug, so I won't be filling it with oil until tomorrow afternoon at the earliest.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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| Re: Onan Repair [message #165791 is a reply to message #165723] |
Sun, 08 April 2012 21:03 |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Carl,
Did you buy new gaskets for the valve covers? When I removed mine they both tore -- I made new gaskets from sheet material I bought at Autozone. The intake manifold gaskets seemed more sturdy -- but I had to remove the carb to remove the manifold and ended up making a new carb to manifold gasket. The Onan carb gasket is thin paper and on my 4KW did not seem effective at sealing -- so the one I made is from the cork like sheet.
Good luck -- and let us know how it runs when you finish.
Dennis
| Carl S. wrote on Sun, 08 April 2012 10:12 |
My GMC project for this weekend has been fixing some oil leaks on my Onan. While replacing the LOP switch a few months ago, I noticed an apparent leak at the oil filter adapter. I stopped by my local Cummins/Onan repair center (Simonsen Generator Service, here in Tucson), and picked up the necessary gaskets. The owner, Eric Simonsen, recognized that the generator was a GMC Power Drawer from the 6.0 in the model number. He said that the other NH series Onans were rated at 6.5 KW, and the Power Drawer lost about 500 watts worth of horsepower to the flat intake manifold. I also asked him about the sealing ring around the oil filter and he said it is very important to have that in place for proper cooling, especially at full or near full load. Without that rubber ring, air is drawn in around the oil filter and bypasses the cooling fins on the adjacent head. I bought a new one of those too.
Eric told me I would need two gaskets for the oil filter adapter, since the mounting strap for the engine goes down between the engine block and the adapter. He said that the bottom nut is hard to get at and he used a distributor wrench to get at it. It worked very well. I had to disassemble the upper right mount and remove the mounting strap to replace the gasket behind it. After replacing those two gaskets, with the generator supported on a jack, I decided to remove the oil pan.
After reading Rob M's report of how expensive a new oil pan gasket is, I decided to try to remove the pan cleanly, try to separate the old gasket from the pan. and reuse it with a thin coat of RTV on both sides. So far, this strategy seems to be working, as I was able to remove the gasket, a rather robust rubber piece, without damage. I cleaned it and am currently soaking the pan and bolts in my parts washer. I hope to put it back together today sometime after the family Easter festivities.
I still need to find a proper sealing gasket/ring for the oil plug, which also had a small drip. Hopefully I will be able to take the plug to my auto parts store tomorrow and have them match one up to it.
I also plan to adjust the tappets. I was told that they could be adjusted with the engine running, but Eric said that is not possible, since the intake manifold needs to come off in order to gain access to the tappet covers. Upon looking at the top f the engine, I'm guessing he's right. I will take the manifold off and adjust the tappets cold as he suggested. Hopefully all this will make my Onan run a bit smoother. I de-carboned the heads when I first got the Motorhome three and a half years ago.
Have a Happy Easter!
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Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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| Re: Onan Repair [message #165794 is a reply to message #165791] |
Sun, 08 April 2012 21:37 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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| Dennis S wrote on Sun, 08 April 2012 19:03 |
Carl,
Did you buy new gaskets for the valve covers? When I removed mine they both tore -- I made new gaskets from sheet material I bought at Autozone. The intake manifold gaskets seemed more sturdy -- but I had to remove the carb to remove the manifold and ended up making a new carb to manifold gasket. The Onan carb gasket is thin paper and on my 4KW did not seem effective at sealing -- so the one I made is from the cork like sheet.
Good luck -- and let us know how it runs when you finish.
Dennis
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Dennis,
I had replaced all the top side gaskets about three years ago, so they were almost all still reusable. The exception was the carburetor to manifold gasket you speak of. That thin paper gasket had shrunk, but still seemed to be sealing. At Eric Simonsen's suggestion, I bought a new one of those too. It is all finished except for the plug and the oil. I am confident it will at least hold it's oil after this.
I think I forgot to mention that Eric also suggested checking the two 5/16" nuts that hold the oil filter adapter and mounting strap to the engine block periodically. He pointed out that the design of that assembly is conducive to working loose. His advice is to tighten those two nuts whenever the oil filter is removed.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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| Re: Onan Repair [message #165821 is a reply to message #165794] |
Mon, 09 April 2012 09:26 |
tphipps
Messages: 3005
Registered: August 2004
Location: Spanish Fort, AL
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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A very cheap (free) plug gasket for the gap between the oil filter and the metal cooling enclosure is the simple adult beverage foam wrap. When it wears out, just get another one. Trim to fit.
Tom Phipps,
MS II, with Honda genset
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
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| Re: Onan Repair [message #165875 is a reply to message #165821] |
Mon, 09 April 2012 22:42 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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This is what is on mine. I even found done in Onan green.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: Onan Repair [message #165942 is a reply to message #165791] |
Tue, 10 April 2012 13:47 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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Okay, Yesterday I picked up a couple of 3/4" copper ring gaskets for the oil drain plug, installed the plug, poured in 4-1/2 quarts of 'Parts Plus Heavy Duty 30W oil, and fired up the green troll. After letting it warm up a bit, I made some carburetor adjustments, then plugged the power cord into the outlet in the power cord compartment. I turned on the main breaker, plugged a cord in to an inside outlet, and plugged my Kill-a-Watt meter into the cord. I adjusted the engine speed for ~126 volts at no load, which was ~64hz.
I then went inside and turned on the front AC unit. While I was waiting for the compressor to kick in, I switched on the water heater. It put a noticeable load on the generator, and when I checked the Kill-a-Watt again, I still had about 122 volts at close to 62 cycles. When the AC compressor started, the load increased considerably, but the meter still read (IIRC) about 115+ volts. I then turned the rear AC on and waited for it's compressor to kick in. With both ACs and the water heater on, the voltage was reading about 112 volts at about 58 hertz.
The machine is still noisy and still vibrates a bit, but it is somewhat improved and looks like it won't leak oil any more. I guess it is as good as I can expect for a (probably) 2,000+ hour machine. Perhaps the Pertronix ignition would help and I plan to make that upgrade eventually. The engine appears to have some kind of a piston slap or minor rod knock, but runs well, if a bit rough. Maybe that's just how they sound. The inside was clean as a pin, by the way.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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| Re: Onan Repair [message #165943 is a reply to message #165942] |
Tue, 10 April 2012 13:50 |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Carl,
They seem to have a lot of mechanical noise.
Have you changed your mounting biscuits? Some report substantial lessening of rattles and vibration with new mounts.
Dennis
| Carl S. wrote on Tue, 10 April 2012 13:47 |
Okay, Yesterday I picked up a couple of 3/4" copper ring gaskets for the oil drain plug, installed the plug, poured in 4-1/2 quarts of 'Parts Plus Heavy Duty 30W oil, and fired up the green troll. After letting it warm up a bit, I made some carburetor adjustments, then plugged the power cord into the outlet in the power cord compartment. I turned on the main breaker, plugged a cord in to an inside outlet, and plugged my Kill-a-Watt meter into the cord. I adjusted the engine speed for ~126 volts at no load, which was ~64hz.
I then went inside and turned on the front AC unit. While I was waiting for the compressor to kick in, I switched on the water heater. It put a noticeable load on the generator, and when I checked the Kill-a-Watt again, I still had about 122 volts at close to 62 cycles. When the AC compressor started, the load increased considerably, but the meter still read (IIRC) about 115+ volts. I then turned the rear AC on and waited for it's compressor to kick in. With both ACs and the water heater on, the voltage was reading about 112 volts at about 58 hertz.
The machine is still noisy and still vibrates a bit, but it is somewhat improved and looks like it won't leak oil any more. I guess it is as good as I can expect for a (probably) 2,000+ hour machine. Perhaps the Pertronix ignition would help and I plan to make that upgrade eventually. The engine appears to have some kind of a piston slap or minor rod knock, but runs well, if a bit rough. Maybe that's just how they sound. The inside was clean as a pin, by the way.
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Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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| Re: Onan Repair [message #165947 is a reply to message #165943] |
Tue, 10 April 2012 14:17 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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| Dennis S wrote on Tue, 10 April 2012 11:50 |
Carl,
They seem to have a lot of mechanical noise.
Have you changed your mounting biscuits? Some report substantial lessening of rattles and vibration with new mounts.
Dennis
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On, I haven't done that yet. The ones I have seem to be in pretty good shape, although probably pretty hard by now. I have not seen a new one to compare them to.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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| Re: Onan Repair [message #165948 is a reply to message #165943] |
Tue, 10 April 2012 14:23 |
tphipps
Messages: 3005
Registered: August 2004
Location: Spanish Fort, AL
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Mounting biskets for Onan at m&d mower (web based). Need 4. Quick test for bad biskets, place index finger in center hole on front of Onan, if you do not feel the bolt head, or it is off-center, biskets are flat. Shoul cure some of the noise level.
Tom phipps,
MS II
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
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| Re: [GMCnet] Onan Repair [message #165950 is a reply to message #165949] |
Tue, 10 April 2012 14:32 |
mickeysss
Messages: 1476
Registered: January 2012
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Is there anyone that can get my onan started here in anaheim ca 92802 or close mickey thank you m.
On Apr 10, 2012, at 12:27 PM, Dennis Sexton wrote:
>
>
> Carl
> Just thinking out loud -- from my observations, the mounts get hard but they can also sag When they sag, it may allow more points of contact between the generator and the coach, increasing the vibration.
>
> Not trying to add to your work list :)
>
> Dennis
>
>
>
> Carl S. wrote on Tue, 10 April 2012 14:17
>> Dennis S wrote on Tue, 10 April 2012 11:50
>>> Carl,
>>>
>>> They seem to have a lot of mechanical noise.
>>> Have you changed your mounting biscuits? Some report substantial lessening of rattles and vibration with new mounts.
>>>
>>> Dennis
>>
>>
>>
>> On, I haven't done that yet. The ones I have seem to be in pretty good shape, although probably pretty hard by now. I have not seen a new one to compare them to.
>
>
> --
> Dennis S
> 73 Painted Desert 230
> Germantown, TN
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| Re: Onan Repair [message #165963 is a reply to message #165942] |
Tue, 10 April 2012 17:11 |
Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 4260
Registered: January 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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| Carl S. wrote on Tue, 10 April 2012 12:47 |
Okay, Yesterday I picked up a couple of 3/4" copper ring gaskets for the oil drain plug, installed the plug, poured in 4-1/2 quarts of 'Parts Plus Heavy Duty 30W oil, and fired up the green troll. After letting it warm up a bit, I made some carburetor adjustments, then plugged the power cord into the outlet in the power cord compartment. I turned on the main breaker, plugged a cord in to an inside outlet, and plugged my Kill-a-Watt meter into the cord. I adjusted the engine speed for ~126 volts at no load, which was ~64hz.
I then went inside and turned on the front AC unit. While I was waiting for the compressor to kick in, I switched on the water heater. It put a noticeable load on the generator, and when I checked the Kill-a-Watt again, I still had about 122 volts at close to 62 cycles. When the AC compressor started, the load increased considerably, but the meter still read (IIRC) about 115+ volts. I then turned the rear AC on and waited for it's compressor to kick in. With both ACs and the water heater on, the voltage was reading about 112 volts at about 58 hertz.
The machine is still noisy and still vibrates a bit, but it is somewhat improved and looks like it won't leak oil any more. I guess it is as good as I can expect for a (probably) 2,000+ hour machine. Perhaps the Pertronix ignition would help and I plan to make that upgrade eventually. The engine appears to have some kind of a piston slap or minor rod knock, but runs well, if a bit rough. Maybe that's just how they sound. The inside was clean as a pin, by the way.
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I'd say you are definitely in a good operating range. With a lot of fiddling with the governor you could possibly dial it in a bit more but I doubt it. As far as the engine noise, my old Barbarian was pretty loud as far as mechanical noise goes. I suspected it would continue to run forever that way. i did get a newer 4000 to put in it but have had a steady slew of company keeping me from finishing that up. After a lot of measuring, it looks like I will be able to use the original slides with some modifcation.
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
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| Re: Onan Repair [message #165968 is a reply to message #165723] |
Tue, 10 April 2012 18:07 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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I think besides the usual valve train clatter that these have ( mostly high frequency component) I think that under load a lot of the noise is on the induction side with the open element air filter. But I don't think there is enough room to put in a canister and snorkel or resonator chamber unless you were to remote it somewhere. Some induction side inverse tuning would really quite them down when running under load.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: Onan Repair [message #165981 is a reply to message #165948] |
Tue, 10 April 2012 20:22 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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| tphipps wrote on Tue, 10 April 2012 12:23 |
Mounting biskets for Onan at m&d mower (web based). Need 4. Quick test for bad biskets, place index finger in center hole on front of Onan, if you do not feel the bolt head, or it is off-center, biskets are flat. Shoul cure some of the noise level.
Tom phipps,
MS II
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By that measure, mine probably need to be replaced. I had to jack up the generator to get a socket on that bolt, while adjusting the tappets. I'll add it to my list.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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| Re: [GMCnet] Onan Repair [message #165983 is a reply to message #165950] |
Tue, 10 April 2012 20:28 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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| mickeysss wrote on Tue, 10 April 2012 12:32 |
Is there anyone that can get my Onan started here in Anaheim CA 92802 or close mickey thank you m.
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Yeah Mickey...YOU! Seriously, I don't mean to be a smart @$$, but it's about as simple as they come. If you have fuel, spark, and compression, it'll run. It may take a little doing if you do not have one or more of those, but it's all pretty basic.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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| Re: Onan Repair [message #165988 is a reply to message #165981] |
Tue, 10 April 2012 20:54 |
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mike miller
Messages: 3576
Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Karma: 0
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| Carl S. wrote on Tue, 10 April 2012 18:22 |
| tphipps wrote on Tue, 10 April 2012 12:23 |
Mounting biskets for Onan at m&d mower (web based). Need 4. Quick test for bad biskets, place index finger in center hole on front of Onan, if you do not feel the bolt head, or it is off-center, biskets are flat. Should cure some of the noise level.
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By that measure, mine probably need to be replaced. I had to jack up the generator to get a socket on that bolt, while adjusting the tappets. I'll add it to my list.
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If the rubber isolation cushions have compressed the starter might be resting on the floor of the power drawer. This causes noise and might break the starter mounting bracket.
The test that I would use to determine if they need replacement is to look at how much space is below the gen-set. If very little to none....
I have not changed mine and just following info from others here:
<http://www.m-and-d.com/index.html>
For the 6k: Item# ONA-402-0284
402-0284 ONAN PART 4020284/402-0284
CUSHION-VIB ISO MTG
Price: $17.15 (each)
For the 4k: Item# ONA-402-0283
402-0283 ONAN PART 4020283/402-0283
CUSHION-VIB ISO MTG
Price: $15.76 (each)
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo'
http://m000035.blogspot.com
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| Re: [GMCnet] Onan Repair [message #166002 is a reply to message #165988] |
Tue, 10 April 2012 22:09 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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if this is the case, and the Onan is hitting the pan, it will leave a mark,
and it will break the starter bracket
http://gmcmotorhome.info/generator.html#MOUNT
gene
On Tue, Apr 10, 2012 at 6:54 PM, Mike Miller <m000035@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Carl S. wrote on Tue, 10 April 2012 18:22
> > tphipps wrote on Tue, 10 April 2012 12:23
> > > Mounting biskets for Onan at m&d mower (web based). Need 4. Quick
> test for bad biskets, place index finger in center hole on front of Onan,
> if you do not feel the bolt head, or it is off-center, biskets are flat.
> Should cure some of the noise level.
> >
> >
> > By that measure, mine probably need to be replaced. I had to jack up
> the generator to get a socket on that bolt, while adjusting the tappets.
> I'll add it to my list.
>
>
> If the rubber isolation cushions have compressed the starter might be
> resting on the floor of the power drawer. This causes noise and might
> break the starter mounting bracket.
>
> The test that I would use to determine if they need replacement is to look
> at how much space is below the gen-set. If very little to none....
>
> I have not changed mine and just following info from others here:
> <http://www.m-and-d.com/index.html>
>
> For the 6k: Item# ONA-402-0284
> 402-0284 ONAN PART 4020284/402-0284
> CUSHION-VIB ISO MTG
> Price: $17.15 (each)
>
> For the 4k: Item# ONA-402-0283
> 402-0283 ONAN PART 4020283/402-0283
> CUSHION-VIB ISO MTG
> Price: $15.76 (each)
> --
> Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
> (#1)'73 26' exPainted D. -- (#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23'
> Birchaven Side Bath
> http://m000035.blogspot.com
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