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[GMCnet] Fresh Water Pump Problems and More [message #163272] |
Sat, 17 March 2012 13:31 |
k2gkk
Messages: 4452 Registered: November 2009
Karma: -8
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Senior Member |
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I put water in the tank for the first time today.
Had to go to the manual to find the switch to
turn the pump on. Okay, found that, turned it
on, yellow light comes on, NO water from any
faucet.
More digging in the manual follows. Removed the
somewhat fixed bed a P.O. installed and got down
to the pump. Pump is running, but no water being
delivered. There's a strainer of sorts in the
line from the bottom of the tank to the pump and
it HAD been leaking some water when I first turned
the pump on. I haven't gotten if fully apart yet,
but I think one half of the housing MAY be cracked.
Does this pump actually pump water or is it similar
to other boat and RV pumps that pump only air to
pressurize the tank? The motor is running fine, so
is maybe a rebuild kit available for the pump?
Also, the manual speaks of an auxilliary fill point
in the propane compartment that must be capped, but
I can't find any such fill.
I also have no idea as to whether the propane system
works, but we could do without it. There is NO way
we can use the coach w/o water!
Suggestions, brilliant or otherwise, welcomed!
On a good note, both A/C are running and putting out
"cool" air. Whether it is sufficient for Shawnee is
yet to be discovered!
Battery charging system is still screwy. I think the
wiring on the house battery system must be missing
something. I need to compare what I have back there
to somebody's coach that is working properly. I am
pretty sure that the wiring from the new converter
is not correct and maybe can get some help when we
get to Shawnee.
We WILL have alternate transportation there!!
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~~ k2gkk @ hotmail dot com ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ex-Palm Beach, 76 ~ ~ ~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
_______________
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*--OO---[]---O-*
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Re: [GMCnet] Fresh Water Pump Problems and More [message #163279 is a reply to message #163272] |
Sat, 17 March 2012 15:30 |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046 Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Mac,
If your system is as original, the water pump pushes water -- it is not an air pump for pressurizing the tank.
How did you fill the water tank" -- usually there is a fill inlet in the propane compartment.
Some of the water pumps used a Gilmer belt drive from the motor to the pump -- is the belt broken?
You may also need to check all drain valves to be sure they are closed. Two behind the kitchen sink for hot/cold, one at the city water inlet (you have to remove a panel in the closet to access this one), one at the fresh water pump and one from the water heater.
These are the best photos of the water pump set-up I could locate in the photo site, in Armand's album on his bedroom remodel...
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=5465
Adn if you get the water pump working -- you may not want to connect to the shore water supply at the rally -- since your inlet may be untested and therefore suspect. Many have flooded their coaches as a result.
Does this help?
Dennis
k2gkk wrote on Sat, 17 March 2012 13:31 |
I put water in the tank for the first time today.
Had to go to the manual to find the switch to
turn the pump on. Okay, found that, turned it
on, yellow light comes on, NO water from any
faucet.
More digging in the manual follows. Removed the
somewhat fixed bed a P.O. installed and got down
to the pump. Pump is running, but no water being
delivered. There's a strainer of sorts in the
line from the bottom of the tank to the pump and
it HAD been leaking some water when I first turned
the pump on. I haven't gotten if fully apart yet,
but I think one half of the housing MAY be cracked.
Does this pump actually pump water or is it similar
to other boat and RV pumps that pump only air to
pressurize the tank? The motor is running fine, so
is maybe a rebuild kit available for the pump?
Also, the manual speaks of an auxilliary fill point
in the propane compartment that must be capped, but
I can't find any such fill.
I also have no idea as to whether the propane system
works, but we could do without it. There is NO way
we can use the coach w/o water!
Suggestions, brilliant or otherwise, welcomed!
On a good note, both A/C are running and putting out
"cool" air. Whether it is sufficient for Shawnee is
yet to be discovered!
Battery charging system is still screwy. I think the
wiring on the house battery system must be missing
something. I need to compare what I have back there
to somebody's coach that is working properly. I am
pretty sure that the wiring from the new converter
is not correct and maybe can get some help when we
get to Shawnee.
We WILL have alternate transportation there!!
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~~ k2gkk @ hotmail dot com ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ex-Palm Beach, 76 ~ ~ ~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
_______________
*[ ]....[][ ][]\
*--OO---[]---O-*
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Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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Re: [GMCnet] Fresh Water Pump Problems and More [message #163280 is a reply to message #163272] |
Sat, 17 March 2012 15:30 |
idrob
Messages: 645 Registered: January 2005 Location: Central Idaho
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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k2gkk wrote on Sat, 17 March 2012 11:31 |
Pump is running, but no water being
delivered. There's a strainer of sorts in the
line from the bottom of the tank to the pump and
it HAD been leaking some water when I first turned
the pump on. I haven't gotten if fully apart yet,
but I think one half of the housing MAY be cracked.
Does this pump actually pump water or is it similar
to other boat and RV pumps that pump only air to
pressurize the tank? The motor is running fine, so
is maybe a rebuild kit available for the pump?
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If the intake is leaking air (cracked strainer) you will have problems building up pressure. The other thing to look for is a white, inline, check valve in the output of the pump. It was put in by GMC for who knows what reason, but I found, on my rig when I had it, that the replacement pump would not develop enough pressure (when first trying to prime), to overcome the check valve. Since all pumps have an internal check valve in their output, the additional one is totally unnecessary and should be removed.
The pump is a water pump, not an air compressor and does not pressurize the water tank. Rebuild kits are available, but often are almost as expensive as a new pump. See if you can get the one you have working first.
Rob Allen
former owner of '76 x-PB
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Re: [GMCnet] Fresh Water Pump Problems and More [message #163282 is a reply to message #163272] |
Sat, 17 March 2012 15:46 |
Don A
Messages: 895 Registered: October 2008 Location: Dallas, TX
Karma: 0
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<<<<<< Also, the manual speaks of an auxilliary fill point
in the propane compartment that must be capped, but
I can't find any such fill. >>>>
On my '76 Glenbrook the tank fill is on the drivers side. Right at the rear corner, behind a locking door, same level as the elec door. Water line then runs inside across the rear to the fresh tank. Probably on that side to be near the other hookups?
Don Adams Dallas, TX
'76 26' Glenbrook, '90 Sidekick
rebuilt by R Archer, powered by J Bounds, Koba [IMG]http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6109/G2.jpg[/IMG]
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Re: [GMCnet] Fresh Water Pump Problems and More [message #163283 is a reply to message #163272] |
Sat, 17 March 2012 16:00 |
roy1
Messages: 2126 Registered: July 2004 Location: Minden nevada
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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[
Early 76 in the propane compartment late 76 on the drivers side behind fill door.
Also, the manual speaks of an auxilliary fill point
in the propane compartment that must be capped, but
I can't find any such fill.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~~ k2gkk @ hotmail dot com ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ex-Palm Beach, 76 ~ ~ ~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
_______________
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[/quote]
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook
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Re: [GMCnet] Fresh Water Pump Problems and More [message #163296 is a reply to message #163282] |
Sat, 17 March 2012 18:55 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030 Registered: January 2004 Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Don A wrote on Sat, 17 March 2012 15:46 | <<<<<< Also, the manual speaks of an auxilliary fill point
in the propane compartment that must be capped, but
I can't find any such fill. >>>>
On my '76 Glenbrook the tank fill is on the drivers side. Right at the rear corner, behind a locking door, same level as the elec door. Water line then runs inside across the rear to the fresh tank. Probably on that side to be near the other hookups?
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It is the same on my 76 Palm Beach. The water fill is about a 5" square locking door located on the driver's side all the way to the rear of the coach.
You are welcome to look at my 76 PB when we get to Shawnee.
It sound like you are sucking air on the input side of the pump or you do not have any water in the tank.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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Re: [GMCnet] Fresh Water Pump Problems and More [message #163298 is a reply to message #163272] |
Sat, 17 March 2012 19:16 |
Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 4260 Registered: January 2004 Location: Chandler, AZ
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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""I put water in the tank for the first time today.
Had to go to the manual to find the switch to
turn the pump on. Okay, found that, turned it
on, yellow light comes on, NO water from any
faucet.
""
These things don't always prime by themselves especially if they have been sitting. I would close all of the faucets except for one in the bathroom and let it run for a while.
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
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Re: [GMCnet] Fresh Water Pump Problems and More [message #163317 is a reply to message #163298] |
Sat, 17 March 2012 20:48 |
k2gkk
Messages: 4452 Registered: November 2009
Karma: -8
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Senior Member |
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Thanks to all who have replied with help on the water issue.
When I first turned on the pump after putting about what turned
out to be 1/2 of water in the tank, nothing came out of any
faucet. After gaining access to the pump area, I found that what
turns out to be a sediment filter in the intake line to the pump
had been leaking. Made a trip out I-40 to Anderson Road and the
"Leisure Time RV" dealership, I found a new filter for about $12.
I had to hit a hardware store to put the 1/2 inch barb fitting
adapter on the output fitting of the filter. Re-install was a
5-minute task. Turned on the pump. Nothing. Pulled the output
line of the pump and that was enough to get the pump primed.
Lots of rust coming through, but water is now clear on all of
the faucets. Kitchen faucet was sputtering and pump surging. All
of a sudden, water flow ceased and pump revved up. OOPS! Cold
water hose to sink faucet had blown off the connection to the
copper tubing. Should be a simple fix, but it's dark and I am
darned tired of fighting it for today. Happy for SOME progress!
Now I need to sanitize the tank. I have about 20 gallons in the
tank now. How much "clorox" bleach should I add to a couple of
quarts of water to add to the 20 gallons in the tank?
On the electrical side, it appears that my PD charger is not
really doing much, if anything, to charge the house battery.
I have a separate charger hooked to the line on the isolator
going to the house battery and hope that will serve until a
true solution may be pointed out by more knowledgeable folks
at Shawnee.
Again, many thanks to the Bob de Kruyff and the half dozen
or so others who offered helpful hints.
They WORKED!
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~~ k2gkk @ hotmail dot com ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ex-Palm Beach, 76 ~ ~ ~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
_______________
*[ ]....[][ ][]\
*--OO---[]---O-*
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> From: NEXT2POOL@AOL.COM
> Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 19:16:18 -0500
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Fresh Water Pump Problems and More
>
>
>
> ""I put water in the tank for the first time today.
> Had to go to the manual to find the switch to
> turn the pump on. Okay, found that, turned it
> on, yellow light comes on, NO water from any
> faucet.
>
> ""
>
> These things don't always prime by themselves especially if they have been sitting. I would close all of the faucets except for one in the bathroom and let it run for a while.
> --
> Bob de Kruyff
> 78 Eleganza
> Chandler, AZ
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Re: [GMCnet] Fresh Water Pump Problems and More [message #163347 is a reply to message #163272] |
Sun, 18 March 2012 06:29 |
Steven Ferguson
Messages: 3447 Registered: May 2006
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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That strainer you talk about was the culprit on my coach. It plugs up
easily. Easily replaceable with a new one from most RV supply outfits.
Everything that settles to the bottom of the water tank will end up in
that strainer.
On Sat, Mar 17, 2012 at 11:31 AM, D C *Mac* Macdonald <k2gkk@hotmail.com>wrote:
>
> I put water in the tank for the first time today.
> Had to go to the manual to find the switch to
> turn the pump on. Okay, found that, turned it
> on, yellow light comes on, NO water from any
> faucet.
>
> More digging in the manual follows. Removed the
> somewhat fixed bed a P.O. installed and got down
> to the pump. Pump is running, but no water being
> delivered. There's a strainer of sorts in the
> line from the bottom of the tank to the pump and
> it HAD been leaking some water when I first turned
> the pump on. I haven't gotten if fully apart yet,
> but I think one half of the housing MAY be cracked.
>
> Does this pump actually pump water or is it similar
> to other boat and RV pumps that pump only air to
> pressurize the tank? The motor is running fine, so
> is maybe a rebuild kit available for the pump?
>
>
> Also, the manual speaks of an auxilliary fill point
> in the propane compartment that must be capped, but
> I can't find any such fill.
>
> I also have no idea as to whether the propane system
> works, but we could do without it. There is NO way
> we can use the coach w/o water!
>
> Suggestions, brilliant or otherwise, welcomed!
>
> On a good note, both A/C are running and putting out
> "cool" air. Whether it is sufficient for Shawnee is
> yet to be discovered!
>
> Battery charging system is still screwy. I think the
> wiring on the house battery system must be missing
> something. I need to compare what I have back there
> to somebody's coach that is working properly. I am
> pretty sure that the wiring from the new converter
> is not correct and maybe can get some help when we
> get to Shawnee.
>
> We WILL have alternate transportation there!!
>
> ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
> ~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
> ~~ k2gkk @ hotmail dot com ~~
> ~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
> ~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
> ~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
> ~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
> ~ ~ ~ ex-Palm Beach, 76 ~ ~ ~
> ~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
> ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
> _______________
> *[ ]....[][ ][]\
> *--OO---[]---O-*
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--
Fathom the hypocrisy of a nation where every citizen must prove they have
health insurance......but not everyone has to prove they're a citizen.
Steve Ferguson
Sierra Vista, AZ
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Re: [GMCnet] Fresh Water Pump Problems and More [message #163363 is a reply to message #163347] |
Sun, 18 March 2012 10:24 |
k2gkk
Messages: 4452 Registered: November 2009
Karma: -8
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Senior Member |
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My strainer was NOT plugged, and there was very
little debris in it. Its problem was that water
had not been emptied from it at a previous
winterization and that water froze and cracked
the body, thereby causing a leak.
The new strainer I bought at a local RV place
has a screw off bowl to enable simpler cleaning.
Since the bowl just unscrews, simple to prepare
that part of the water system for winter (<$13).
I did have to buy an adaptor for the output at
a local hardware store ($1). All in all, a good
improvement for under $15 including tax!
BTW, when I was buying the strainer at Leisure
Time RV, I mentioned the coming convention/rally
at Shawnee. This shop, on I-40 about 20 miles
or so west of the rally location, offered me cards
to get 10% discount on parts for anybody attending
the rally. Just ask for Andy Sumner in the parts
department.
Someone else has mentioned filter/strainer in
the kitchen and bathroom faucets that may get
plugged and I suspect that may be why the cold
water tubing line to the kitchen faucet blew
apart from the copper line of the faucet. Maybe
I'll just get a new faucet from Home Depot or
such.
I'm getting "there" but apparently I have a
LONG list of things to do.
It appears that I also have a bunch of vacuum
line errors in the engine compartment to be
fixed among other things. Engine would likely
run a lot better if vacuum lines were correct!
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~~ k2gkk @ hotmail dot com ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ex-Palm Beach, 76 ~ ~ ~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
_______________
*[ ]....[][ ][]\
*--OO---[]---O-*
> Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2012 04:29:47 -0700
> From: botiemad11@gmail.com
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Fresh Water Pump Problems and More
>
> That strainer you talk about was the culprit on my coach. It plugs up
> easily. Easily replaceable with a new one from most RV supply outfits.
> Everything that settles to the bottom of the water tank will end up in
> that strainer.
>
> Steve Ferguson
> Sierra Vista, AZ
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Re: [GMCnet] Fresh Water Pump Problems and More [message #163372 is a reply to message #163317] |
Sun, 18 March 2012 11:22 |
idrob
Messages: 645 Registered: January 2005 Location: Central Idaho
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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k2gkk wrote on Sat, 17 March 2012 18:48 |
Thanks to all who have replied with help on the water issue.
Turned on the pump. Nothing. Pulled the output
line of the pump and that was enough to get the pump primed.
|
I still bet you a cookie that you have an original white plastic check valve in your output line which is going to cause the same lack of prime issue each time you run your tank dry and try to get it going again.
Drove me nuts on my rig until I found it and removed it. The pump just does not have enough poop to suck on the intake and expel air through that check valve on the output side while priming. Since there is a check valve in the pump, the white plastic external one is unnecessary.
Rob Allen
former owner of '76 x-PB
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Re: [GMCnet] Fresh Water Pump Problems and More [message #163398 is a reply to message #163378] |
Sun, 18 March 2012 13:46 |
k2gkk
Messages: 4452 Registered: November 2009
Karma: -8
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Senior Member |
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Hi, Rick. The "Kens" are not the only folks who
seem to be so well acquainted with Mister Murphy!
Apparently the compression fitting was just loose
on the cold water line. I did a pull-off and then
reinserted the plastic line and compression ring
and tightened 'er back up. No leak now there, BUT
a new leak has appeared apparently where the copper
tubing enters the faucet!
Now what?
I'm guessing I'll need to unfasten the drain lines,
and remove the sink! SHEESH!
It needs new drains to replace the corroded originals,
anyway.
I sure can't see or even feel up there.
Anybody have any better ideas?
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~~ k2gkk @ hotmail dot com ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ex-Palm Beach, 76 ~ ~ ~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
_______________
*[ ]....[][ ][]\
*--OO---[]---O-*
> Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2012 12:53:14 -0400
> From: rwdenney@gmail.com
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Fresh Water Pump Problems and More
>
> On Sun, Mar 18, 2012 at 12:33 PM, D C *Mac* Macdonald <k2gkk@hotmail.com>wrote:
>
> >
> > It appears to me that something in the kitchen
> > faucet is largely blocked, leading to the line
> > pressure being high enough to blow the connection
> > apart.
> >
>
> The kitchen faucet may not have a filter, but the strainer at the faucet
> outlet may be clogged. It should unscrew, but you make need to wrap it in
> tape to protect the finish and then use pliers.
>
> But the pump should have a built-in pressure switch. Even if you have a
> complete blockage (which you have when the faucets are off), the pump
> should turn itself off at 30 psi or so--long before any connections should
> come apart. I suspect you had a freeze problem or a rotted connection
> already.
>
> When I dewinterize, I usually have to let the pump run quite a while for
> the system to prime and push all the air out of the system. It scares me a
> little every time.
>
> Rick "time for that for this year" Denney
>
> --
> '73 230 "Jaws"
> Northern Virginia
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