Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Noise Suppression Capacitor on Blower (Question to the Electronics Gurus)
| Noise Suppression Capacitor on Blower [message #162450] |
Thu, 08 March 2012 01:33  |
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John Heslinga
Messages: 632
Registered: February 2011
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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Hi All electronics gurus:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=43101&title=bad-connection-2&cat=6030
This is the Noise suppression Capacitor from my Blower motor wiring harness. The harness(or single wire in this case)part number is: 8913700. The capacitor is called a feed through capacitor in the wiring diagram. I'm assuming "feed through" means that the positive electrolytics are wound radially around a conductor that goes through the centre of the capacitor. The Case then is connected to the negative electrolytics and grounded. The fact that the wire is actually a part of the manufacture of the capacitor by going through the centre of the capacitor it has a robust mechanical connection to the electrolytics, and as pigtails they will tolerate more vibration.
As you can see I have a large number of strands broken on each side of this capacitor which is leading to a large voltage drop at the blower and heating at the capacitor and wires.
My Questions:
I suspect A simple repair might be to cut and solder the wires to each side of the capacitor, However: if the wire originally was actually part of the manufacture of the capacitor and a pigtail, the solder joint will be a poor option and wires will break again anyway (There is no good mechanical connection to establish first) What do you think?
Related to this is: Why would the capacitor really need to be feed through and not simply a capacitor to ground (It is anyway.)? Which Links to the next question:
As part of this repair, I would like to increase the wire size to the blower by at least 2 gauges. Basicly the next size larger. Could I simply solder a pigtail onto one end of the capacitor and connect it into the new wire and ground? (Like many other noise suppression capacitors. If not, is there a better size of capacitor that will do this same thing.
Best Regards
John and Cathie Heslinga
1974 Canyonlands 260
455, Manny tranny and 1 ton, 3:70 LS,
Red Seal Journeyman, DTE, BEd. MEd.
Edmonton, Alberta
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| Re: Noise Suppression Capacitor on Blower [message #162451 is a reply to message #162450] |
Thu, 08 March 2012 05:52  |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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I think you are making a little more out of this than is necessary. The capacitor on the 12 volt feed feed to the blower motor is there to reduce electrical fan noise in the radio.
Eliminate the capacitor and then try the radio on a weak station and see if you hear the fan whining in the radio speakers. If there is no noise or the noise is not objectionable then forget replacing the capacitor. If there is objectionable noise then get a new capacitor and splice it in line with the blower motor feed.
You can get a replacement that has two screw terminals plus a mounting screw. Mount it and then crimp or solder to eye type lugs on the two wires and attach the wires to your new capacitor.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Noise Suppression Capacitor on Blower [message #162453 is a reply to message #162450] |
Thu, 08 March 2012 06:39 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Senior Member |
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By all means use a larger wire. The feed through gives a bit of shielding and to a degree removes higher frequency RF noise the capacitor may not fully remove. While that effect is marginal at best, it can be replicated by putting a ferrite supressor over the wire. That's the lump in the video cable going to your monitor. You can probably find one at Radio Shack, or from DigiKey on line. Yes, you can use the same value capacitor to ground as a stand - alone rather than a feedthorugh. They're readily avilable. Value isn't really critical. Try one from a conventional points distributor for a start. It wants to connect to the blower end of the wire, as close as possible to the connector, and the ferrite wants to be at that end of the wire also. This placement removes the noise before the wire has a chance to act as an antenna and radiate it.
As a test of efficacy, hook up the power wire without tha supression devices, turn on the radio and TV, and then turn the blower on and off. If it makes an annoying amount of noise - or if it puts sparklies in your TV, and you run the radio or TV when the blower is running, proceed with the supression. If it doesn't, or you don't, save yourself the trouble. It won't hurt anything.
--johnny
'76 23' transmode norris
'76 palm beach
From: John Heslinga <rbeeper@hotmail.com>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Thursday, March 8, 2012 2:33 AM
Subject: [GMCnet] Noise Suppression Capacitor on Blower
Hi All electronics gurus:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=43101&title=bad-connection-2&cat=6030
This is the Noise suppression Capacitor from my Blower motor wiring harness. The harness(or single wire in this case)part number is: 8913700. The capacitor is called a feed through capacitor in the wiring diagram. I'm assuming "feed through" means that the positive electrolytics are wound radially around a conductor that goes through the centre of the capacitor. The Case then is connected to the negative electrolytics and grounded. The fact that the wire is actually a part of the manufacture of the capacitor by going through the centre of the capacitor it has a robust mechanical connection to the electrolytics, and as pigtails they will tolerate more vibration.
As you can see I have a large number of strands broken on each side of this capacitor which is leading to a large voltage drop at the blower and heating at the capacitor and wires.
My Questions:
I suspect A simple repair might be to cut and solder the wires to each side of the capacitor, However: if the wire originally was actually part of the manufacture of the capacitor and a pigtail, the solder joint will be a poor option and wires will break again anyway (There is no good mechanical connection to establish first) What do you think?
Related to this is: Why would the capacitor really need to be feed through and not simply a capacitor to ground (It is anyway.)? Which Links to the next question:
As part of this repair, I would like to increase the wire size to the blower by at least 2 gauges. Basicly the next size larger. Could I simply solder a pigtail onto one end of the capacitor and connect it into the new wire and ground? (Like many other noise suppression capacitors. If not, is there a better size of capacitor that will do this same thing.
Best Regards
--
John and Cathie Heslinga
1974 Canyonlands 260
TC4W "Too Cool For Words"
Retirement Projects Galore
Edmonton, Alberta
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Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: Noise Suppression Capacitor on Blower [message #162520 is a reply to message #162450] |
Thu, 08 March 2012 23:54 |
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John Heslinga
Messages: 632
Registered: February 2011
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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Right On !!!
Good information. Thanks for your input!!
Taking that information,I went shopping today. What a frustrating experience !!!! I was hoping to find a new feed through capacitor that has the screws on both ends. (At least to find a price)(easy right?) I already have radio noise, so I wanted to make sure I do not add more. I tried 3 different Stereo installation shops ( I expected they would be dealing with noise issues on a regular basis) They basicly had no idea what I was talking about!? But the bottom line was they had nothing for me. I tried a couple of electronics shops but they would have to order 100 at a time. No way. I tried NAPA, Bumper to Bumper, and Parts Source. Nothing.
OK: I have a new Ford Condensor I have Wire, I have a 30 Amp Breaker, and I have Connectors. I'll be building a new wire with 10ga Wire, taping the Condensor into the motor connector. I also will be improving the direct from battery power feed to the relay as well.
I'll do follow up posts as I make progress.
Thanks a million.
John and Cathie Heslinga
1974 Canyonlands 260
455, Manny tranny and 1 ton, 3:70 LS,
Red Seal Journeyman, DTE, BEd. MEd.
Edmonton, Alberta
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