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Body Isolator Pads [message #160811] Sat, 18 February 2012 18:15 Go to next message
bryant374 is currently offline  bryant374   United States
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Registered: May 2004
Location: Pleasant Valley, NY 12569
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Senior Member
I have a late 1976 PB with the original pads measuring ~1/4" thick (actually .230"). Last Fall I purchased a set of body isolation pads from Bert & Faye and planned to install them this Spring when it warms up. The new pads measure OVER 3/4" (actually .785"). The feedback I see here on the GMC net appears to be a mix of some OK, some not good, but the thickest pad mentioned was 5/8". I am seriously concerned over the 1/2" greater thickness than original and how that difference will affect the Ragusa step, front & rear body supports and jacking over 3/4" without damage.

As an aside, I don't know when the change from long/thick to thin/small pads was implemented, but my guess would have to go with the major redesign of body structure & 3/4" plywood floor for the 1975 model year. No facts, just my guess.

Feedback appreciated.


Bill Bryant
PO 1976~PB (owned 34 years)
1914 Ford (owned 70 years)
1965 Corvette (owned 39 years)
GMC Motorhome History
Re: [GMCnet] Body Isolator Pads [message #160819 is a reply to message #160811] Sat, 18 February 2012 19:33 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Billy Massey is currently offline  Billy Massey   United States
Messages: 916
Registered: January 2004
Location: Central Texas
Karma: 1
Senior Member

SweetPea is a late 76 also. I replaced my thin pads with Bert's thick pads
last summer. Installed 1/2" steel spacers beneath all 4 front and rear body
mounts. Had to come up with rubber spacers for the Ragusa step. Stacked
flat washers to take up the slack on the 4 body "hold downs". Already had
the fuel tanks and black tank out for repair.

Have much better clearance for fuel tank pickups now. They're no longer
bent over (causing a leak) by floor contact. Better clearance for vent,
air, and brake lines. Debbie commented on the fact that we didn't have to
holler to hear one another anymore. That made my day! :-)

I cannot find anything detrimental about this mod. All is well as far as I
can tell.

bdub


-----Original Message-----
From: On Behalf Of Bill Bryant

I have a late 1976 PB with the original pads measuring ~1/4" thick (actually
.230"). Last Fall I purchased a set of body isolation pads from Bert & Faye
and planned to install them this Spring when it warms up. The new pads
measure OVER 3/4" (actually .785"). The feedback I see here on the GMC net
appears to be a mix of some OK, some not good, but the thickest pad
mentioned was 5/8". I am seriously concerned over the 1/2" greater thickness
than original and how that difference will affect the Ragusa step, front &
rear body supports and jacking over 3/4" without damage.

As an aside, I don't know when the change from long/thick to thin/small pads
was implemented, but my guess would have to go with the major redesign of
body structure & 3/4" plywood floor for the 1975 model year. No facts, just
my guess.

Feedback appreciated.


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bdub
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Re: Body Isolator Pads [message #160825 is a reply to message #160811] Sat, 18 February 2012 20:11 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Bob de Kruyff   United States
Messages: 4260
Registered: January 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
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Senior Member
""As an aside, I don't know when the change from long/thick to thin/small pads was implemented, but my guess would have to go with the major redesign of body structure & 3/4" plywood floor for the 1975 model year. No facts, just my guess.

""

Bill, per my previous email, that is my guess as well. A lot of dimensions are affected by the floor and pad thickness. Everything between the body and chassis is part of that.


Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
Re: Body Isolator Pads [message #160826 is a reply to message #160825] Sat, 18 February 2012 20:22 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Carl S. is currently offline  Carl S.   United States
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Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
Senior Member

My '75 has the full length pads, along with the aluminum clad, insulated floor. It also is nice and quiet with no noticeable squeaks, and has adequate room for the air lines, vent lines, etc. to get through the space between the frame and the body. I have no intention of replacing them. (TZE165V101455)

Carl Stouffer '75 ex Palm Beach Tucson, AZ. Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
Re: Body Isolator Pads [message #160830 is a reply to message #160811] Sat, 18 February 2012 20:49 Go to previous messageGo to next message
roy1 is currently offline  roy1   United States
Messages: 2126
Registered: July 2004
Location: Minden nevada
Karma: 6
Senior Member
bryant374 wrote on Sat, 18 February 2012 16:15

I have a late 1976 PB with the original pads measuring ~1/4" thick (actually .230"). Last Fall I purchased a set of body isolation pads from Bert & Faye and planned to install them this Spring when it warms up. The new pads measure OVER 3/4" (actually .785"). The feedback I see here on the GMC net appears to be a mix of some OK, some not good, but the thickest pad mentioned was 5/8". I am seriously concerned over the 1/2" greater thickness than original and how that difference will affect the Ragusa step, front & rear body supports and jacking over 3/4" without damage.

As an aside, I don't know when the change from long/thick to thin/small pads was implemented, but my guess would have to go with the major redesign of body structure & 3/4" plywood floor for the 1975 model year. No facts, just my guess.

Feedback appreciated.




I thought they measured more then 3/4"(I was thinking 7/8") but Bert said they were 3/4". Bert can supply you with thinner pads if you would like. I also had too add a metal spacer under the rear 2 donut mounts and 1/2" longer bolts. The fronts were Ok.The area by the generator had interferance and wouldn't seperate high enough for a full thickness thick pad.If you use the thick pads I would disconnect the dump valve to be sure you don't crack the tank.In my case it wouldn't have mattered how slowly I raised the body the valve just didn't have enough room too go another 1/2" + higher with out hitting the frame (hence the cracked tank). They also affected my entry door. The door was binding with the body on the hinge side after installing the pads . I closed it with a 2 by 4 in the jam to spring it enough so it didn't bind but now it has to be slammed in order to close it. If I had to do it again I would use the pads Jim Bounds offers I was quite upset fixing the problems the extra thickness pads caused me.You might get lucky like some others but I wouldn't want to chance it like Jim said more then 1/2" you are asking for trouble amen to that.


Roy Keen Minden,NV 76 X Glenbrook
Re: Body Isolator Pads [message #160855 is a reply to message #160811] Sun, 19 February 2012 00:59 Go to previous messageGo to next message
gbarrow2 is currently offline  gbarrow2   United States
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Registered: February 2004
Location: Lake Almanor, Ca./ Red Bl...
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Senior Member
Bill et al,

I just replaced most of my body pads this afternoon, so this is your "boots on the ground report"

As The boy named Sue said; " I've fought tougher men but I don't remember when"
Not a real easy project for one man with no lift or pit but not too bad if you don't rush it. My arthritic thumbs and shoulder hurt now and I'm sure all the muscles will be sore tomorrow.

My 76 PALM BEACH was built Nov 1975. It had the long, thin strip pads.
Actually 3 pieces per side.

After reading all the horror stories that others have told I was reluctant to start this project.
I had a set of pads from Jim K. They were definitely thicker than my originals and I was concernrd that I would run into problems that others have experienced if I tried to install them.
But after George Groth's post in the earlier thread I decided to check out "Corral Pads" at Tractor Supply.
For $22 I bought one 3'X4'X 1/2" thick pad. Enough to replace the pads on at least 6 26' Gmcs.
Cuts easily with your Gmc vibrator.

I had sprayed PB blaster on all the relevant bolts several times over the past 3 weeks and thought/hoped that they would relase. WRONG! The passenger side front hold down bracket came loose with no problem but the carriage bolts on the rear one next to the Ragusa step just spun around.
One of the 4 bolts on the passenger side rear donut bracket twisted off (broke) without much force so I didn't bother to try the others.

I removed the bolts holding the Ragusa step to the body. If I ever do this again, I'll just remove the step. Then its out of the way.

I recently installed new laminate flooring in the coach and didn't want to remove it to access the carriage bolt heads on the hold down brackets.
The 3" exaust pipe in the frame rail makes it difficult to employ the Ken Burton procedure of removing the horizontal bolts holding the bracket.

I had read and re-read and then read again Jim Bounds comment in the previous thread regarding his ability to replace the old THIN STRIP STRIP pads with new THIN PADS without removing the hold down brackets or loosening the donut brackets at the 4 corners of the coach. This sounded improbable to me in light of all the problems that others had reported. But Jim does this stuff everyday so he should know.

Jim Bounds was right!!!
I loosened only the front hold down bracket on the passenger side. Using only one bottle jack. a 4x4 block for height and a small piece of flat steel to spread the load of the jack ram I was able to raise the body enough off the frame to remove the old strip pad and install the new 1/2 inch thick pads.
I used the small flat bar reccomended by Ken Henderson to push out he old pads. I already had one but couldn't find it.( like teflon tape and plumbers putty-you have at least 4 of each but they are never where you need them) So I bought another at Homer- less than $4.
I jacked only one cross member at a time- only enough to remove the old pad, spray in some 3M Super 77 as suggested by Miguel Mendez and slide in the new pad.

I did use my floor jack and jack stands to remove the wheels to acccess the pads behind the bogies.

On the driver's side I was able to remove the rear hold down bracket but the carriage bolts in the front one spun.
So I just followed Jim B's instructions and forged ahead. Completed the first 2 sections from the front to the rear wheel well. Started getting dark so I quit for the day. If I'm not too sore I'll finish up tomorrow a.m.
Should be a snap since I only have to go from center of rear wheel well to generator compartment. I think there is only one more crossmember/pad. 2 at the most.

I started a little before noon and quit a little after 6:oo. Didn't break anything or hurt myself. So it was a good day.

The strip pads have a larger lip on the inboard side that will be difficult to squeeze out between the frame and body so I think it is easier to remove the old pads out by pushing from outside the frame toward the center line of the coach.

I hate to do any work that doesn't result in some improvement. So I dearly hope that I can test drive tomorrow and report that my milage has increased and the engine has more power.

If any one between San Diego and Portland along I-5 or even over to San Francisco on 505-80-680-580 wants to save $20 you can have the remains of my Tractor Supply Corral Pad. No shipping but I'll drop it off. I travel to those places regularly.

While this product is not identical to the suppliers body pads and may not work to replace the newer thicker pads I expect that it will work and last as long as I do. If not, at least now I know how to do the job and it will be easier the second time.


Gene Barrow
Lake Almanor, Ca.
1976 Palm Beach
Re: Body Isolator Pads [message #160870 is a reply to message #160855] Sun, 19 February 2012 09:46 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Bob de Kruyff   United States
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Registered: January 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
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Senior Member
""The strip pads have a larger lip on the inboard side that will be difficult to squeeze out between the frame and body so I think it is easier to remove the old pads out by pushing from outside the frame toward the center line of the coach.

I hate to do any work that doesn't result in some improvement. So I dearly hope that I can test drive tomorrow and report that my milage has increased and the engine has more power.

""
Gene--I hope you coated then with ZDDP for the breakin period Smile


Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
Re: Body Isolator Pads [message #160872 is a reply to message #160855] Sun, 19 February 2012 10:36 Go to previous message
roy1 is currently offline  roy1   United States
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Registered: July 2004
Location: Minden nevada
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Senior Member
Nice report Gene 1/2" sure makes a big difference and I'd be willing to bet you didn't learn new cuss words like I did when I added water to my holding tank. I looked at the pads George used (after my delima) and they looked like they would be just fine.

Roy Keen Minden,NV 76 X Glenbrook
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