Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Charging System
| [GMCnet] Charging System [message #160683] |
Fri, 17 February 2012 12:38  |
k2gkk
Messages: 4452
Registered: November 2009
Karma: -8
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I have installed the PD charger/converter, the Yandina combiner
and a pair of golf cart 6V batteries.
After several days to allow stabilization of charge status, the
top and bottom terminals of the isolator read at 13.3 Volts and
the isolator center terminal is at ~1.4 Volts.
The last time I checked with engine running, the center terminal
was around 15.5 Volts.
I strongly suspect something is quite wrong here.
Is it likely that I have problem(s) with both the altenator AND
the isolator?
TIA for any advice and/or suggestions for further action.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~~ k2gkk @ hotmail dot com ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ex-Palm Beach, 76 ~ ~ ~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
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| Re: [GMCnet] Charging System [message #160709 is a reply to message #160683] |
Fri, 17 February 2012 19:25  |
Craig Lechowicz
Messages: 541
Registered: October 2006
Location: Waterford, MI
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Mac,
I only have a combiner and not an isolator, since mine was dead when I got my coach. But, if am thinking about this right, and you are checking with the charger/converter running and the engine not running, your readings might be okay. The isolator tries to keep voltage from going from the top and bottom posts to the center post, so the low center post reading might be okay. It might be somewhat too high at 1.4 volts, but I'm not sure if having power on both sides of the isolator (from the combiner) might be additive.
If the engine is running when checking the voltages, the center post wants to be around 14 -1/2 volts or so (could be 15 if it's cold and/or hasn't been running long) , and the top and bottom posts about 1/2 volt less. So, if you're checking with the engine running the alternator is not working, (or if it is, it's not getting to the center terminal of the isolator).
Craig Lechowicz
'77 Kingsley, Waterford, MI
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| Re: [GMCnet] Charging System [message #160711 is a reply to message #160709] |
Fri, 17 February 2012 19:31 |
tphipps
Messages: 3005
Registered: August 2004
Location: Spanish Fort, AL
Karma: 9
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Your isolated is working just fine. Motor not running equals no voltage on center tap, as it is fed by engine alternator. The two outer taps give you the engine and house battery voltage levels. Engine running equals center tap voltage of about 14.4 volts (from alternator).
Tom phipps, KA4CSG
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
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| Re: [GMCnet] Charging System [message #160713 is a reply to message #160683] |
Fri, 17 February 2012 19:53 |
Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 4260
Registered: January 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Karma: 1
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| k2gkk wrote on Fri, 17 February 2012 11:38 |
I have installed the PD charger/converter, the Yandina combiner
and a pair of golf cart 6V batteries.
After several days to allow stabilization of charge status, the
top and bottom terminals of the isolator read at 13.3 Volts and
the isolator center terminal is at ~1.4 Volts.
The last time I checked with engine running, the center terminal
was around 15.5 Volts.
I strongly suspect something is quite wrong here.
Is it likely that I have problem(s) with both the altenator AND
the isolator?
TIA for any advice and/or suggestions for further action.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~~ k2gkk @ hotmail dot com ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ex-Palm Beach, 76 ~ ~ ~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
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Working as designed!
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
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| Re: [GMCnet] Charging System [message #160735 is a reply to message #160709] |
Fri, 17 February 2012 22:06 |
k2gkk
Messages: 4452
Registered: November 2009
Karma: -8
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Senior Member |
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Craig, as I understand the circuitry, the isolator SHOULD keep
ANY voltage from either house or starting bettery from going
to the center terminal of the isolator because of the polarity
of the diodes that make up the isolator. I am wondering if it is
possible that one or even both isolator diodes are "leaky."
The combiner is to ensure that both battery "banks" charge from
the PD smart charger, as I understand it. It's green "COMBINED"
LED is illuminated.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~~ k2gkk @ hotmail dot com ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ex-Palm Beach, 76 ~ ~ ~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
_______________
*[ ]....[][ ][]\
--OO---[]----O-*
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> From: craig.lechowicz@sbcglobal.net
> Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2012 19:25:47 -0600
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Charging System
>
>
>
> Mac,
> I only have a combiner and not an isolator, since mine was dead when I got my coach. But, if am thinking about this right, and you are checking with the charger/converter running and the engine not running, your readings might be okay. The isolator tries to keep voltage from going from the top and bottom posts to the center post, so the low center post reading might be okay. It might be somewhat too high at 1.4 volts, but I'm not sure if having power on both sides of the isolator (from the combiner) might be additive.
>
> If the engine is running when checking the voltages, the center post wants to be around 14 -1/2 volts or so (could be 15 if it's cold and/or hasn't been running long) , and the top and bottom posts about 1/2 volt less. So, if you're checking with the engine running the alternator is not working, (or if it is, it's not getting to the center terminal of the isolator).
> --
> Craig Lechowicz
> '77 Kingsley, Waterford, MI
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| Re: [GMCnet] Charging System [message #160736 is a reply to message #160730] |
Fri, 17 February 2012 22:11 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Mac,
Check the GMC chassis wiring diagram. You'll see that there are numerous
possible sources for leakage onto the alternator output lead, including
even the possibility of leakage within a faulty regulator.
Your understanding of the isolator is correct, except for one tiny,
crucial, fact: The Anodes are connected to the center terminal. So
current can only flow from the alternator to the batteries and not
vice-versa. I've been known to get that so screwed up that I had to shut
down & go to bed. :-)
Your isolator test with the Fluke proves that it's A-OK.
It was mentioned earlier that opening is the most common failure mode for
diodes. Not so: Usually they fail shorted when excessive forward current,
or reverse voltage, actually melts the P-N junction. But open IS the most
common failure mode for the isolator -- because of mechanical separation of
a diode's cathode from the heat sink to which the two are welded inside
that black epoxy. I surmise that it's different expansion and contraction
rates that break the welds -- sometimes they're thermally intermittent.
Assuming that your Fluke is accurate, the alternator's 15.5 VDC output
could be another clue, along with the parasitic 1.4 VDC, that the
regulator's bad. On the other hand, the sense line may have a bad
connection so that the regulator's receiving bad feedback and trying to
compensate for it. Try connecting the sense lead directly to the output
and see if the output voltage moves to normal -- More like 13.8-14.4 VDC.
Have fun! :-)
Ken H.
On Fri, Feb 17, 2012 at 10:50 PM, D C *Mac* Macdonald wrote:
>
> BUT, I have 1.4 Volts on the isolator center terminal
> WITHOUT the engine running. Where is that voltage
> originating? My understanding of the isolator is that
> it is a pair of simple silicon diodes with the cathodes
> tied together at the center point to allow conduction
> of charging current to both batteries when the voltage
> from the alternator exceeds battery voltages there
> should be NO voltage present at that point when the
> engine (and alternator) are not running.
>
> With everything disconnected from the isolator, I
> measured a one-way .51 V drop with a diode test on
> my Fluke 77 digital multimeter. That same test did
> NOT indicate conduction when the leads were reversed.
>
> I also doubt that the 15.5 Volt output from the
> alternator is harmless to the batteries OR various
> electrical components of the engine or the coach
> itself.
>
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Charging System [message #160738 is a reply to message #160736] |
Fri, 17 February 2012 22:23 |
k2gkk
Messages: 4452
Registered: November 2009
Karma: -8
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Senior Member |
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I blame CRS for my ERRONEOUS statement regarding
the CATHODES being attached to center post. I sure as
hell know better, but I'm rather stuffed from a big
dinner at a local pig-out buffet. That's my story and
I'm sticking to it!.
Where do I find that "sense" lead?
Could a bad diode in the three-phase rectifier bridge
in the alternator cause that "mystery" voltage at the
isolator?
Maybe I'll have to figure out how to extricate the big
alternator and have it checked. I'm NOT looking forward
to THAT possibility!
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~~ k2gkk @ hotmail dot com ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ex-Palm Beach, 76 ~ ~ ~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
_______________
*[ ]....[][ ][]\
*--OO---[]---O-*
> From: hend4800@bellsouth.net
> Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2012 23:11:43 -0500
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Charging System
>
> Mac,
>
> Check the GMC chassis wiring diagram. You'll see that there are numerous
> possible sources for leakage onto the alternator output lead, including
> even the possibility of leakage within a faulty regulator.
>
> Your understanding of the isolator is correct, except for one tiny,
> crucial, fact: The Anodes are connected to the center terminal. So
> current can only flow from the alternator to the batteries and not
> vice-versa. I've been known to get that so screwed up that I had to shut
> down & go to bed. :-)
>
> Your isolator test with the Fluke proves that it's A-OK.
>
> It was mentioned earlier that opening is the most common failure mode for
> diodes. Not so: Usually they fail shorted when excessive forward current,
> or reverse voltage, actually melts the P-N junction. But open IS the most
> common failure mode for the isolator -- because of mechanical separation of
> a diode's cathode from the heat sink to which the two are welded inside
> that black epoxy. I surmise that it's different expansion and contraction
> rates that break the welds -- sometimes they're thermally intermittent.
>
> Assuming that your Fluke is accurate, the alternator's 15.5 VDC output
> could be another clue, along with the parasitic 1.4 VDC, that the
> regulator's bad. On the other hand, the sense line may have a bad
> connection so that the regulator's receiving bad feedback and trying to
> compensate for it. Try connecting the sense lead directly to the output
> and see if the output voltage moves to normal -- More like 13.8-14.4 VDC.
>
> Have fun! :-)
>
> Ken H.
>
>
>
> On Fri, Feb 17, 2012 at 10:50 PM, D C *Mac* Macdonald wrote:
>
> >
> > BUT, I have 1.4 Volts on the isolator center terminal
> > WITHOUT the engine running. Where is that voltage
> > originating? My understanding of the isolator is that
> > it is a pair of simple silicon diodes with the cathodes
> > tied together at the center point to allow conduction
> > of charging current to both batteries when the voltage
> > from the alternator exceeds battery voltages there
> > should be NO voltage present at that point when the
> > engine (and alternator) are not running.
> >
> > With everything disconnected from the isolator, I
> > measured a one-way .51 V drop with a diode test on
> > my Fluke 77 digital multimeter. That same test did
> > NOT indicate conduction when the leads were reversed.
> >
> > I also doubt that the 15.5 Volt output from the
> > alternator is harmless to the batteries OR various
> > electrical components of the engine or the coach
> > itself.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Charging System [message #160752 is a reply to message #160713] |
Sat, 18 February 2012 02:16 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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Everything sounds normal to me except the 1.4 volts on the alternator lead when the coach is not running. I have to admit I have have never checked that lead on my coach without the engine running.
Disconnect the wire from the center terminal of the isolator and take the reading again on both the wire and the terminal. That will tell you which way to go looking for the 1.4 volts. I just do not know if that is normal or not.
On the 15+ volts from the alternator while running, keep in mind that alternator the sense lead is connected down the line from isolator and there is additional voltage drops in the wiring that the alternator regulator could be compensation for. One drop under heavy alternator load is the fusible link. You might want to read the voltage while running across the engine battery. If it is in the 14.0 or 14.5 cold range then the alternator regulator is operating correctly.
I'm looking at the wiring diagram for a 1975 HEI coach and it shows that the sense line for the alternator is hooked to one of the two red 12 gauge wires that are on the big terminal of the buzzer/horn relay. It is interesting that the wire shows red on the relay end and white on the alternator end so there has to be a junction somewhere between the two ends. I do not know where that connection is.
HTH
Ken B.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Charging System [message #160762 is a reply to message #160683] |
Sat, 18 February 2012 07:42 |
 |
Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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| k2gkk wrote on Fri, 17 February 2012 13:38 |
I have installed the PD charger/converter, the Yandina combiner and a pair of golf cart 6V batteries.
After several days to allow stabilization of charge status, the top and bottom terminals of the isolator read at 13.3 Volts and the isolator center terminal is at ~1.4 Volts.
The last time I checked with engine running, the center terminal was around 15.5 Volts.
I strongly suspect something is quite wrong here.
Is it likely that I have problem(s) with both the altenator AND the isolator?
TIA for any advice and/or suggestions for further action.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
|
Mac,
This is a great thread so far, but I can't wait to see the final diagnosis.
The Kens are both correct (no surprise there), but I have actually seen things like this before. Everything is great except for that ~1.4 at the center terminal. The 15.5 at the center is not out of line as that makes about 14.7~8 at the battery terminals and that is a little high, but not that far out of line.
Personally, I suspect that it is in the alternator as that and the blower high speed are all that connects to that center terminal. It could easily be either, but the alternator sucks cooling air through the machine frame. That will bring along stuff that will collect moisture and become sort of conductive.
An important thing to remember is the the input impedance of the 77 is REAL high. You could be seeing a multi-megohm leakage. (It could very easily be road dirt inside the alternator.)
How I would attack this...
Unplug field/sense (little 2 wire) connector at the alternator.
If the 1.4 goes away, that's your leak. It is being supplied by the sense lead to the regulator.
If it is still there, disconnect the high speed relay for the blower fan. (This is not a good bet, but it is easy.) Then..
Disconnect the center terminal from the everything. If it is still there, you have a leaky diode. This is very rare, but it does happen. If it seems you do, clean the surface of the isolator. Brake cleaner will work. It just may go away.
What to do about it if it is the alternator.
A - Forget about it. It is such a low level leak (probably micro-amps) that it will not be much of an issue. (It won't light an LED.)
B - Get a spray can of electrical cleaner (not the kind with any lubricant), put the long snout on it and squirt it all into the machine and watch the black goo run out. (This usually works and it only costs a the ~10$ can of cleaner and a few minutes.)
C - Take the machine off the engine and break it down and clean out decades of black crud from the inside.
D - Like above but take it to an auto electric shop and have it disassembled and cleaned.
This happens on power boats too, but it is usually associated with the damp environment corrosion and collections of spider webs, cotton wood and milkweed fluff.
When you do find it, let us all know what you found.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: [GMCnet] Charging System [message #160764 is a reply to message #160683] |
Sat, 18 February 2012 08:08 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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I am going to see my baby today. I'll try to get a reading with MY Fluke 77 center to GRD with the IOTA charging both batts through the Yandina. I suspect nothing is wrong with your setup if you have the combiner across the 2 batt terminals on the isolator and a good ground.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] Charging System [message #160808 is a reply to message #160730] |
Sat, 18 February 2012 16:33 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Senior Member |
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1.4 volts on a Fluke wouldn't be out of line for diode leakage current.
--johnny
'76 23' transmode norris
'76 palm beach
________________________________
From: D C *Mac* Macdonald <k2gkk@hotmail.com>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2012 10:50 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Charging System
BUT, I have 1.4 Volts on the isolator center terminal
WITHOUT the engine running. Where is that voltage
originating? My understanding of the isolator is that
it is a pair of simple silicon diodes with the cathodes
tied together at the center point to allow conduction
of charging current to both batteries when the voltage
from the alternator exceeds battery voltages there
should be NO voltage present at that point when the
engine (and alternator) are not running.
With everything disconnected from the isolator, I
measured a one-way .51 V drop with a diode test on
my Fluke 77 digital multimeter. That same test did
NOT indicate conduction when the leads were reversed.
I also doubt that the 15.5 Volt output from the
alternator is harmless to the batteries OR various
electrical components of the engine or the coach
itself.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~~ k2gkk @ hotmail dot com ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ex-Palm Beach, 76 ~ ~ ~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
_______________
*[ ]....[][ ][]\
*--OO---[]---O-*
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> From: tph1pp5@yahoo.com
> Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2012 19:31:35 -0600
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Charging System
>
> Your isolated is working just fine. Motor not running equals no voltage on center tap, as it is fed by engine alternator. The two outer taps give you the engine and house battery voltage levels. Engine running equals center tap voltage of about 14.4 volts (from alternator).
> Tom phipps, KA4CSG
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Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: [GMCnet] Charging System [message #161015 is a reply to message #160683] |
Mon, 20 February 2012 16:19 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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Ok, as promised I took a reading yesterday. Both batteries were disconnected for about 3 months so I connected both and plugged the coach in. I have FYI a stock 80A alt, a 30A IOTA smart converter, a 100A isolator (red one) and a Yandina combiner. I have a 1 year old Delco Grp 78 up front and an older single 12V deepcycle in back. I got an approx .5V reading on my Fluke 23 from the Centre terminal to the Alluminum plate GRD. This was with the engine off and the IOTA putting the charge on both batteries through the Yandina. State of charge was whatever self discharged in 3 months. Yandina was slightly warm in the process. So .5 VS 1.5V? I think you are Ok if when it sits there is no parasitic drain and if the alt is charging both sides.
On a funnier note... I was also charging 4 separate cars at the same time and putzing around the rest of the shop. Most cars were just needing a top off charge, but my Firebird GRP 75 Delco battery was dead dead like 0V, even though it was disconnected. So on that car I hooked up a big charger (only one still free to use) and put it on the lowest setting of 50A. I thought I heard the relay clicking in the distance and when I went back to check it in a couple hours there was acid vapor pouring out of the vent in a powerfull stream. The clamps and battery were too hot to touch. I'm guessing a cell shorted so putting 14V at 50A into a now 10V Battery configuration is not so good. We'll send that one in for warranty and see what they say!. Moto is don't leave things like that unattended overnight etc or you could have ashes in the AM vehicles, shop and all.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] Charging System [message #161017 is a reply to message #160683] |
Mon, 20 February 2012 16:25 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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'I also doubt that the 15.5 Volt output from the
alternator is harmless to the batteries OR various
electrical components of the engine or the coach
itself. '
That's about right with a room temp alt at the center terminal as the sense voltage is after the diode on the coach engine side. What really matters is the output side of the isolator and that that's 13.8-14.2 depending on how hot it is out.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] Charging System [message #161021 is a reply to message #161015] |
Mon, 20 February 2012 16:32 |
k2gkk
Messages: 4452
Registered: November 2009
Karma: -8
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Senior Member |
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When I first put a charger on the big 12V (truck)
battery that WAS in the rear compartment, I put
the battery outside the garage on the driveway
and ran the cord from the charger out under the
garage door. Turned out to be a good idea! I
set the charger on 8 Amps and after 24 hours,
you could hear sizzling in the battery and a
small amount of electrolyte was very slowly
being pushed out on the top of the battery. I
got credit for TWO batteries when I traded it
in for two 6V golf cart batteries from Sam's.
As you said, charging batteries can be dangerous!
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~~ k2gkk @ hotmail dot com ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ex-Palm Beach, 76 ~ ~ ~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
_______________
*[ ]....[][ ][]\
*--OO---[]---O-*
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> From: gransport@aol.com
> Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2012 16:19:30 -0600
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Charging System
>
>
>
> Ok, as promised I took a reading yesterday. Both batteries were disconnected for about 3 months so I connected both and plugged the coach in. I have FYI a stock 80A alt, a 30A IOTA smart converter, a 100A isolator (red one) and a Yandina combiner. I have a 1 year old Delco Grp 78 up front and an older single 12V deepcycle in back. I got an approx .5V reading on my Fluke 23 from the Centre terminal to the Alluminum plate GRD. This was with the engine off and the IOTA putting the charge on both batteries through the Yandina. State of charge was whatever self discharged in 3 months. Yandina was slightly warm in the process. So .5 VS 1.5V? I think you are Ok if when it sits there is no parasitic drain and if the alt is charging both sides.
> On a funnier note... I was also charging 4 separate cars at the same time and putzing around the rest of the shop. Most cars were just needing a top off charge, but my Firebird GRP 75 Delco battery was dead dead like 0V, even though it was disconnected. So on that car I hooked up a big charger (only one still free to use) and put it on the lowest setting of 50A. I thought I heard the relay clicking in the distance and when I went back to check it in a couple hours there was acid vapor pouring out of the vent in a powerfull stream. The clamps and battery were too hot to touch. I'm guessing a cell shorted so putting 14V at 50A into a now 10V Battery configuration is not so good. We'll send that one in for warranty and see what they say!. Moto is don't leave things like that unattended overnight etc or you could have ashes in the AM vehicles, shop and all.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Chicago, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
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