| [GMCnet] Torsion bar unloader [message #153875] |
Wed, 21 December 2011 07:56  |
glwgmc
Messages: 1014
Registered: June 2004
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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One difference I found between the original and the copies is that the U portion on the original seems to hold its shape (hardened?) so is easy to slip on/off of the heavy bar making it easy to put on and take off while under the coach. The U portion on the copies tend to bend (the U collapses a bit) under use and can be a bear to get on and off. Could that be an unintended consequence of welding the locater tip onto the U and softening the U at that point? One other issue I have found with the copies is if the bar is not straight (parallel with the cross member), or is cocked side to side then the U may also bend laterally as well and that exacerbates the issue for the next user. The original seems immune to both of these conditions.
Jerry
Jerry Work
The Dovetail Joint
Fine furniture designed and hand crafted in the 1907 former Masonic Temple building in historic Kerby, OR
Visitors always welcome!
glwork@mac.com
http://jerrywork.com
541-592-5360
www.southernoregonguild.org
www.siskiyouguild.org
--------------------
Message: 19
Date: Tue, 20 Dec 2011 20:41:06 -0600
From: Larry <weidnerl@wwt.net>
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Torsion bar unloader
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Message-ID: <258da.4ef14741@gmc.mybirdfeeder.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-15"
Bob de Kruyff wrote on Tue, 20 December 2011 20:05
> ""Bob,
>
> Here's a picture of the one Larry made.
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=9162
>
> The "U" bolt I bought has much longer "legs" on it which would allow a "taller" block. Unfortunately I've thrown the box away and
> can't remember where I bought it.
>
> ""
>
> Any words of wisdom regarding the "through bolt" hardness and nut? I'm assuming a grade 8 bolt is a minimum. I vaguely recalled when I used one before that the bolt thread was galling.
The nut is a grade 8, and I'm assuming the bolt is also. I found that I had to lube it good with a synthetic grease or it would gall. The nut also had to be welded all of the way around. At first it was just tacked in place, but that tack broke on the second or third use. The "U" bolt I picked up at my local "Fleet Farm" supply, but can be had at any auto supply store. Then you have to weld a little "tit" on it so it stays in place on the frame. JWID
--
Larry :)
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
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Jerry & Sharon Work
78 Royale
Kerby, OR
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| Re: [GMCnet] Torsion bar unloader [message #153880 is a reply to message #153875] |
Wed, 21 December 2011 08:13  |
Carleton Douglas[1]
Messages: 174
Registered: March 2006
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Your grade 8 nut is now a grade 1, heat treat is gone.
On Wed, Dec 21, 2011 at 6:56 AM, Work Jerry <glwork@mac.com> wrote:
> One difference I found between the original and the copies is that the U portion on the original seems to hold its shape (hardened?) so is easy to slip on/off of the heavy bar making it easy to put on and take off while under the coach. The U portion on the copies tend to bend (the U collapses a bit) under use and can be a bear to get on and off. Could that be an unintended consequence of welding the locater tip onto the U and softening the U at that point? One other issue I have found with the copies is if the bar is not straight (parallel with the cross member), or is cocked side to side then the U may also bend laterally as well and that exacerbates the issue for the next user. The original seems immune to both of these conditions.
>
> Jerry
> Jerry Work
> The Dovetail Joint
> Fine furniture designed and hand crafted in the 1907 former Masonic Temple building in historic Kerby, OR
> Visitors always welcome!
> glwork@mac.com
> http://jerrywork.com
> 541-592-5360
>
> www.southernoregonguild.org
> www.siskiyouguild.org
> --------------------
> Message: 19
> Date: Tue, 20 Dec 2011 20:41:06 -0600
> From: Larry <weidnerl@wwt.net>
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Torsion bar unloader
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Message-ID: <258da.4ef14741@gmc.mybirdfeeder.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-15"
>
>
>
> Bob de Kruyff wrote on Tue, 20 December 2011 20:05
>> ""Bob,
>>
>> Here's a picture of the one Larry made.
>>
>> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=9162
>>
>> The "U" bolt I bought has much longer "legs" on it which would allow a "taller" block. Unfortunately I've thrown the box away and
>> can't remember where I bought it.
>>
>> ""
>>
>> Any words of wisdom regarding the "through bolt" hardness and nut? I'm assuming a grade 8 bolt is a minimum. I vaguely recalled when I used one before that the bolt thread was galling.
>
>
> The nut is a grade 8, and I'm assuming the bolt is also. I found that I had to lube it good with a synthetic grease or it would gall. The nut also had to be welded all of the way around. At first it was just tacked in place, but that tack broke on the second or third use. The "U" bolt I picked up at my local "Fleet Farm" supply, but can be had at any auto supply store. Then you have to weld a little "tit" on it so it stays in place on the frame. JWID
> --
> Larry :)
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
>
> ----------------------------
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
--
Carleton Douglas
73 custom, by myself
Prescott, AZ
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| Re: [GMCnet] Torsion bar unloader [message #153883 is a reply to message #153880] |
Wed, 21 December 2011 08:43 |
 |
Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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| Carleton Douglas wrote on Wed, 21 December 2011 09:13 |
Your grade 8 nut is now a grade 1, heat treat is gone.
<lots of snips>
>> Any words of wisdom regarding the "through bolt" hardness and nut? I'm assuming a grade 8 bolt is a minimum. I vaguely recalled when I used one before that the bolt thread was galling.
>
> The nut is a grade 8, and I'm assuming the bolt is also. I found that I had to lube it good with a synthetic grease or it would gall. The nut also had to be welded all of the way around. At first it was just tacked in place, but that tack broke on the second or third use. The "U" bolt I picked up at my local "Fleet Farm" supply, but can be had at any auto supply store. Then you have to weld a little "tit" on it so it stays in place on the frame. JWID
> --
> Larry :)
--
Carleton Douglas
|
Carlton,
A fully annealed Gr8 (which it will probably not be) is still a gr3 (more like 3.9) and it still has the Gr8 thread fit. The important part is the lubrication as any alloy fastener will gall given half a chance. There the EP is more important the synthetic's temperature resistance, so any moly loaded grease will do and it does not take much.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: [GMCnet] Torsion bar unloader [message #153913 is a reply to message #153883] |
Wed, 21 December 2011 11:07 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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Those lead screws are galling because of two reasons. Lack of lubrication
and the use of air tools. That 3/4 " Grade 8 NF bolt is easily strong
enough to pick up the entire coach. Stop worrying about getting your hands
greasy and lube those threads.
Jim Hupy
Salem, OR
78 GMC Royale 403
On Wed, Dec 21, 2011 at 6:43 AM, Matt Colie <matt7323tze@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Carleton Douglas wrote on Wed, 21 December 2011 09:13
> > Your grade 8 nut is now a grade 1, heat treat is gone.
> > <lots of snips>
> > >> Any words of wisdom regarding the "through bolt" hardness and nut?
> I'm assuming a grade 8 bolt is a minimum. I vaguely recalled when I used
> one before that the bolt thread was galling.
> > >
> > > The nut is a grade 8, and I'm assuming the bolt is also. I found that
> I had to lube it good with a synthetic grease or it would gall. The nut
> also had to be welded all of the way around. At first it was just tacked in
> place, but that tack broke on the second or third use. The "U" bolt I
> picked up at my local "Fleet Farm" supply, but can be had at any auto
> supply store. Then you have to weld a little "tit" on it so it stays in
> place on the frame. JWID
> > > --
> > > Larry :)
> > --
> > Carleton Douglas
>
> Carlton,
>
> A fully annealed Gr8 (which it will probably not be) is still a gr3 (more
> like 3.9) and it still has the Gr8 thread fit. The important part is the
> lubrication as any alloy fastener will gall given half a chance. There the
> EP is more important the synthetic's temperature resistance, so any moly
> loaded grease will do and it does not take much.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie
> '73 Glacier 23 Chaumičre (say show-me-air) Just about as stock as you will
> find
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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