| Repairing water line, diverter to shower head [message #149540] |
Sun, 13 November 2011 08:09  |
4runneradam
Messages: 13
Registered: October 2011
Location: Cincinnati Ohio
Karma: 0
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How hard is this going to be? I'm guessing its burst due to freezing. It pours out all over the water heater when I turn on the diverter.
How involved is this? Any shortcuts? Do I need to remove the water heater? Looking at the plumbing diagram it appears to run behind the water heater.
'73 Sequoia 260
I also have a burst water line along the city water feed where it goes into the T right behind the living system breaker. I think I can cut the T out, and put on some threaded fittings and re-install.
73 Sequoia 260
[Updated on: Sun, 13 November 2011 08:10] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Repairing water line, diverter to shower head [message #149550 is a reply to message #149540] |
Sun, 13 November 2011 10:44  |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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| 4runneradam wrote on Sun, 13 November 2011 08:09 |
How hard is this going to be? I'm guessing its burst due to freezing. It pours out all over the water heater when I turn on the diverter.
How involved is this? Any shortcuts? Do I need to remove the water heater? Looking at the plumbing diagram it appears to run behind the water heater.
'73 Sequoia 260
I also have a burst water line along the city water feed where it goes into the T right behind the living system breaker. I think I can cut the T out, and put on some threaded fittings and re-install.
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In my 73 the line behind the power supply had a hole from rubbing on the converter. I removed the city water fill option -- may or may not restore -- mine is a 23 ft so if I replace tne city fill I may move to the other side of the coach.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=37668&title=0076&cat=4620
As for the shower -- I have not replaced the line but have looked it over. Just a copper line from the underside of the faucet. No need to remove the water heater to access. The center line in this photo.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=37690&title=0226&cat=4620
Dennis
Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
[Updated on: Sun, 13 November 2011 11:31] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Repairing water line, diverter to shower head [message #149559 is a reply to message #149550] |
Sun, 13 November 2011 12:04 |
4runneradam
Messages: 13
Registered: October 2011
Location: Cincinnati Ohio
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My city water line is busted just a few inches away from the T fitting which is right up against the outside wall. Maybe I could stick a sheet of metal behind it and solder it in place. But maybe I need to replace the T as well since the burst is so close to it.
And the shower line is leaking from up above the water heater. I turn on the water and it pours down onto the water heater, no leaks anywhere visable.
73 Sequoia 260
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| Re: Repairing water line, diverter to shower head [message #149561 is a reply to message #149540] |
Sun, 13 November 2011 12:09 |
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mike miller
Messages: 3576
Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
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| 4runneradam wrote on Sun, 13 November 2011 06:09 |
...
'73 Sequoia 260
I also have a burst water line along the city water feed where it goes into the T right behind the living system breaker. I think I can cut the T out, and put on some threaded fittings and re-install.
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Something of note for when working on early ('73/'74) water systems. These have copper pipes. The pipes expand if frozen with water in them and unlike the plastic pipes of newer coaches, it does not contract back when thawed out. While they will rarely burst the pipes with the first freeze, each freeze expands the pipe a little more... weakening it. Eventually the pipe will split.
When repairing this "expanded" copper tubing, you'll find that none of the new fittings... fit. You'll have to replace the tubing. If repairing one split section, replace the whole section from threaded fitting to threaded fitting.
If you have the interior out, I would replace the whole system with PEX or something like it.
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo'
http://m000035.blogspot.com
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| Re: [GMCnet] Repairing water line, diverter to shower head [message #149571 is a reply to message #149561] |
Sun, 13 November 2011 13:44 |
Russell Mehlenbacher
Messages: 128
Registered: June 2010
Karma: 1
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On Sun, Nov 13, 2011 at 1:09 PM, Mike Miller wrote:
>
>
>
> Something of note for when working on early ('73/'74) water systems.
> These have copper pipes. The pipes expand if frozen with water in them
> and unlike the plastic pipes of newer coaches, it does not contract back
> when thawed out. While they will rarely burst the pipes with the first
> freeze, each freeze expands the pipe a little more... weakening it.
> Eventually the pipe will split.
>
> When repairing this "expanded" copper tubing, you'll find that none of the
> new fittings... fit. You'll have to replace the tubing. If repairing one
> split section, replace the whole section from threaded fitting to threaded
> fitting.
>
> If you have the interior out, I would replace the whole system with PEX or
> something like it.
> --
>
I would like to second that caution... I started trying to repair a few
splits on my '74, and ended up replacing everything except the first 2
feet. Especially after you fix the first leak, you discover that there is
another, and another, and another. Been there, done that.
Russ
--
Russ & Linda Mehlenbacher
Rochester Hills, MI
'74 X-Sequoia
'76 Eleganza
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Russ & Linda Mehlenbacher
Rochester Hills, Michigan
'76 Eleganza
'74 Sequoia
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