Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED
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| Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED [message #148074 is a reply to message #148070] |
Fri, 28 October 2011 19:22   |
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All,
This isn't the Rob and Byron show so please read on.
OK. It is a great sales pitch -- about fire safety assembled from a
collection of emails and posts to this list/forum.
It should be dynamic -- It should grow. I'm sure Rob wouldn't mind to update
it occasionally. I'll do as is done with the Idiot's Guide, update it and
start putting the date of the update in the document.
It'll only get better with time and great input.
Byron
Rob Mueller wrote:
> Byron,
>
> Thanks for hosting this document.
>
> This is a compilation of input from all of you.
>
> I disagree with Byron - it is a sales pitch - I hope to "sell" every GMCer to
> read and consider the recommendations. ;-)
>
> It should be considered a dynamic document, as WE learn something new I would
> suggest it be noted.
>
> This is a summary of recommendations; it is not meant to be a "how to." If you
> see something you don't understand ASK the GMCnet and
> I'm sure someone will provide details.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Byron Songer
>
> Rob Mueller did us another favor. Heıs compiled an excellent, seven-page
> document dealing with aspects of fire prevention from wiring to
> extinguishers.
>
> You can download the document from this link. Itıs at the top of the list.
> Itıs that important.
>
> http://www.gmceast.com/technical/
>
> It isnıt a sales pitch itıs a warning and a reality check.
>
> Thanks, Rob. We're all proud to have you as a mate.
>
> Byron
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
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--
Byron Songer
Full-timing to enjoy the USA
Former owner but still an admirer
GMC paint schemes at -
http://www.songerconsulting.net
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| Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED [message #148077 is a reply to message #148064] |
Fri, 28 October 2011 19:57 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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Rob and Byron
On page 5 the last paragraph under the "Foam" sub-heading is about a DRY CHEM baking soda extinguisher. I believe you put this paragraph under the wrong sub-heading.
Also the sub-headings "Dry Chemical" and "Water" probably should have been in black like the previous types you listed in that section.
Ken B.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED [message #148083 is a reply to message #148077] |
Fri, 28 October 2011 20:28 |
 |
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Ken,
Thanks for the input, you are correct.
Dennis Sexton called this to our attention and for some reason I put it under the Foam heading, DOUH!
I agree it should be moved to the Dry Chemical heading but I think the paragraph should read:
America's Test Kitchen tested fire extinguishers and chose the Kidde FX10K (available at Lowes for $18.97) as the best. It is baking
soda, so after the fire is out, you clean up the kitchen without damage to the tools/skillet/range, etc. It is not destructive like
other dry chemical extinguishers. See the following link for additional info on this extinguisher.
http://www.kiddefireextinguishers.org/kidde-fx10k-kitchen-fire-extinguisher/
I read the info above to mean that it won't cause the same corrosive damage that the "other" dry chemical extinguishers will cause,
or am I mistaken? Maybe we need to buy one of them and test it to see if it is corrosive. I reckon it isn't corrosive as Kidde
wouldn't be foolish enough to open themselves to the wrath of irate homemakers! ;-)
I agree that Dry Chemical and Water should be the same.
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Ken Burton
Sent: Saturday, 29 October 2011 11:57 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED
Rob and Byron
On page 5 the last paragraph under the "Foam" sub-heading is about a DRY CHEM baking soda extinguisher. I believe you put this
paragraph under the wrong sub-heading.
Also the sub-headings "Dry Chemical" and "Water" probably should have been in black like the previous types you listed in that
section.
Ken B.
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED [message #148085 is a reply to message #148083] |
Fri, 28 October 2011 20:35 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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G'day,
When I responded to Ken's comments I hadn't opened the document on GMCES I checked the copy I sent to him which was just a plain
text message.
I just downloaded and noted Byron did a great job sprucing it up!
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Rob Mueller
Sent: Saturday, 29 October 2011 12:28 PM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED
Ken,
Thanks for the input, you are correct.
Dennis Sexton called this to our attention and for some reason I put it under the Foam heading, DOUH!
I agree it should be moved to the Dry Chemical heading but I think the paragraph should read:
America's Test Kitchen tested fire extinguishers and chose the Kidde FX10K (available at Lowes for $18.97) as the best. It is baking
soda, so after the fire is out, you clean up the kitchen without damage to the tools/skillet/range, etc. It is not destructive like
other dry chemical extinguishers. See the following link for additional info on this extinguisher.
http://www.kiddefireextinguishers.org/kidde-fx10k-kitchen-fire-extinguisher/
I read the info above to mean that it won't cause the same corrosive damage that the "other" dry chemical extinguishers will cause,
or am I mistaken? Maybe we need to buy one of them and test it to see if it is corrosive. I reckon it isn't corrosive as Kidde
wouldn't be foolish enough to open themselves to the wrath of irate homemakers! ;-)
I agree that Dry Chemical and Water should be the same.
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Ken Burton
Sent: Saturday, 29 October 2011 11:57 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED
Rob and Byron
On page 5 the last paragraph under the "Foam" sub-heading is about a DRY CHEM baking soda extinguisher. I believe you put this
paragraph under the wrong sub-heading.
Also the sub-headings "Dry Chemical" and "Water" probably should have been in black like the previous types you listed in that
section.
Ken B.
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED [message #148090 is a reply to message #148085] |
Fri, 28 October 2011 20:58 |
Dolph Santorine
Messages: 1236
Registered: April 2011
Location: Wheeling, WV
Karma: -41
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Senior Member |
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Great stuff, Rob.
Thank you!
Dolph
On Oct 28, 2011, at 9:35 PM, Rob Mueller wrote:
> G'day,
>
> When I responded to Ken's comments I hadn't opened the document on GMCES I checked the copy I sent to him which was just a plain
> text message.
>
> I just downloaded and noted Byron did a great job sprucing it up!
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Rob Mueller
> Sent: Saturday, 29 October 2011 12:28 PM
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED
>
> Ken,
>
> Thanks for the input, you are correct.
>
> Dennis Sexton called this to our attention and for some reason I put it under the Foam heading, DOUH!
>
> I agree it should be moved to the Dry Chemical heading but I think the paragraph should read:
>
> America's Test Kitchen tested fire extinguishers and chose the Kidde FX10K (available at Lowes for $18.97) as the best. It is baking
> soda, so after the fire is out, you clean up the kitchen without damage to the tools/skillet/range, etc. It is not destructive like
> other dry chemical extinguishers. See the following link for additional info on this extinguisher.
> http://www.kiddefireextinguishers.org/kidde-fx10k-kitchen-fire-extinguisher/
>
> I read the info above to mean that it won't cause the same corrosive damage that the "other" dry chemical extinguishers will cause,
> or am I mistaken? Maybe we need to buy one of them and test it to see if it is corrosive. I reckon it isn't corrosive as Kidde
> wouldn't be foolish enough to open themselves to the wrath of irate homemakers! ;-)
>
> I agree that Dry Chemical and Water should be the same.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Ken Burton
> Sent: Saturday, 29 October 2011 11:57 AM
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED
>
> Rob and Byron
>
> On page 5 the last paragraph under the "Foam" sub-heading is about a DRY CHEM baking soda extinguisher. I believe you put this
> paragraph under the wrong sub-heading.
>
> Also the sub-headings "Dry Chemical" and "Water" probably should have been in black like the previous types you listed in that
> section.
>
> Ken B.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
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Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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| Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED [message #148091 is a reply to message #148083] |
Fri, 28 October 2011 20:58 |
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Update (correction) on the way.
Rob Mueller wrote:
> Ken,
>
> Thanks for the input, you are correct.
>
> Dennis Sexton called this to our attention and for some reason I put it under
> the Foam heading, DOUH!
>
> I agree it should be moved to the Dry Chemical heading but I think the
> paragraph should read:
>
> America's Test Kitchen tested fire extinguishers and chose the Kidde FX10K
> (available at Lowes for $18.97) as the best. It is baking
> soda, so after the fire is out, you clean up the kitchen without damage to the
> tools/skillet/range, etc. It is not destructive like
> other dry chemical extinguishers. See the following link for additional info
> on this extinguisher.
> http://www.kiddefireextinguishers.org/kidde-fx10k-kitchen-fire-extinguisher/
>
> I read the info above to mean that it won't cause the same corrosive damage
> that the "other" dry chemical extinguishers will cause,
> or am I mistaken? Maybe we need to buy one of them and test it to see if it is
> corrosive. I reckon it isn't corrosive as Kidde
> wouldn't be foolish enough to open themselves to the wrath of irate
> homemakers! ;-)
>
> I agree that Dry Chemical and Water should be the same.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org]
> On Behalf Of Ken Burton
> Sent: Saturday, 29 October 2011 11:57 AM
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED
>
> Rob and Byron
>
> On page 5 the last paragraph under the "Foam" sub-heading is about a DRY CHEM
> baking soda extinguisher. I believe you put this
> paragraph under the wrong sub-heading.
>
> Also the sub-headings "Dry Chemical" and "Water" probably should have been in
> black like the previous types you listed in that
> section.
>
> Ken B.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
--
Byron Songer
Full-timing to enjoy the USA
Former owner but still an admirer
GMC paint schemes at -
http://www.songerconsulting.net
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| Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED [message #148092 is a reply to message #148083] |
Fri, 28 October 2011 21:01 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| Robert Mueller wrote on Fri, 28 October 2011 20:28 |
Ken,
Thanks for the input, you are correct.
Dennis Sexton called this to our attention and for some reason I put it under the Foam heading, DOUH!
I agree it should be moved to the Dry Chemical heading but I think the paragraph should read:
America's Test Kitchen tested fire extinguishers and chose the Kidde FX10K (available at Lowes for $18.97) as the best. It is baking
soda, so after the fire is out, you clean up the kitchen without damage to the tools/skillet/range, etc. It is not destructive like
other dry chemical extinguishers. See the following link for additional info on this extinguisher.
http://www.kiddefireextinguishers.org/kidde-fx10k-kitchen-fire-extinguisher/
I read the info above to mean that it won't cause the same corrosive damage that the "other" dry chemical extinguishers will cause,
or am I mistaken? Maybe we need to buy one of them and test it to see if it is corrosive. I reckon it isn't corrosive as Kidde
wouldn't be foolish enough to open themselves to the wrath of irate homemakers! 
I agree that Dry Chemical and Water should be the same.
Regards,
Rob M.
|
I agree with everything you stated.
Other than having to vacuum up or clean up the powder the only other down side is it is not quite as effective at putting out the fire when compared to other dry chem types. I would use the baking soda one over the other types of dry powder any day. I had too much after the fire damage for the dry power one I attempted to use.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED [message #148113 is a reply to message #148064] |
Sat, 29 October 2011 03:01 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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think Y'all forgot this one
http://gmcmotorhome.info/heat.html#heater_fire
and this one
http://gmcmotorhome.info/chassis.html#Rear
and this one -
electric fuel pump has to stop with engine - in case of fire -power w/o
diodes, they fail shorted (on).
http://gmcmotorhome.info/engine.html#pump
and
to get rid of rubber fuel lines, use this
http://goo.gl/9uxwC
http://goo.gl/tId0q
I would like to know who first brought the Poly Amour line to the GMCnet, to
give them credit. This is the greatest thing going to help re-plumb the
fuel lines (and brake lines).
gene
On Fri, Oct 28, 2011 at 3:45 PM, Byron Songer
<bsonger@songerconsulting.net>wrote:
> Rob Mueller did us another favor. HeÂıs compiled an excellent, seven-page
> document dealing with aspects of fire prevention from wiring to
> extinguishers.
>
> You can download the document from this link. ItÂıs at the top of the list.
> ItÂıs that important.
>
> http://www.gmceast.com/technical/
>
> It isnÂıt a sales pitch âı itÂıs a warning and a reality check.
>
> Thanks, Rob. We're all proud to have you as a mate.
>
>
> --
>
> Byron Songer
> Louisville, KY
> http://www.gmceast.com
>
> Sights to see and places to stay Â
> Find or submit a GMCer recommendation
> http://www.gmceast.com/travel
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
âGive a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
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| Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED [message #148114 is a reply to message #148113] |
Sat, 29 October 2011 05:00 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Gene,
Good catches, THANKS!
See my comments in red below your input.
Please advise if you think they are adequate to cover the subject.
Also if anybody has or knows of links that can be put into the document for further information PLEASE send them in.
Regards,
Rob M.
_____
From: gene Fisher [mailto:mr.erfisher@gmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, 29 October 2011 7:02 PM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED
think Y'all forgot this one
http://gmcmotorhome.info/heat.html#heater_fire
The sentence below should go under ELECTRICAL
Remove the front plate of the heater box and check that critters have not built a nest that the resistor network on the right side
could set on fire.
http://gmcmotorhome.info/heat.html#heater_fire
Question regarding this recommendation I am not that familiar with the heater box would it be possible to prevent critters from
getting in the heater box by putting ½ square mesh over the places they get in?
and this one
http://gmcmotorhome.info/chassis.html#Rear
The sentence below should go under ELECTRICAL
Verify that Service Bulletin 77-TM has been performed on your GMC/Transmode. http://gmcmotorhome.info/chassis.html#Rear
and this one -
electric fuel pump has to stop with engine - in case of fire -power w/o diodes, they fail shorted (on).
http://gmcmotorhome.info/engine.html#pump
We can add the link above to the sentence below already under ELECTRICAL.
Power to electrical fuel pumps routed through a low/no oil pressure sender. http://gmcmotorhome.info/engine.html#pump
and
to get rid of rubber fuel lines, use this
http://goo.gl/9uxwC
http://goo.gl/tId0q
While I agree in principle that metal fuel lines are much better than rubber lines; I will defer to you as to how to word this
recommendation. I dont want to infer that a rubber fuel lines on a GMC are a fire hazard.
I would like to know who first brought the Poly Amour line to the GMCnet, to give them credit. This is the greatest thing going to
help re-plumb the fuel lines (and brake lines).
Beats me! You reckon its better than sliced bread? ;-)
gene
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GMCnet mailing list
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED [message #148119 is a reply to message #148114] |
Sat, 29 October 2011 07:31 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
|
Senior Member |
|
|
>
>
>
> See my comments in red below your input.
>
>
>
> Please advise if you think they are adequate to cover the subject.
>
>
>
> Also if anybody has or knows of links that can be put into the document for
> further information PLEASE send them in.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Rob M.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: gene Fisher [mailto:mr.erfisher@gmail.com]
> Sent: Saturday, 29 October 2011 7:02 PM
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED
>
>
>
> think Y'all forgot this one
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/heat.html#heater_fire
>
>
>
> The sentence below should go under ELECTRICAL
>
>
>
> As shown in the link, check that critters have not built a nest in the
> resistor network on the lower, driver's side of the heater box.
>
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/heat.html#heater_fire
>
>
>
> Question regarding this recommendation I am not that familiar with the
> heater box would it be possible to prevent critters from
> getting in the heater box by putting ½ square mesh over the places they
> get in
>
> there are several places they could get in - outlet vents, and inlet vents.
>
>
> and this one
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/chassis.html#Rear
>
>
>
> The sentence below should go under ELECTRICAL
>
>
>
> Verify that Service Bulletin 77-TM has been performed on your
> GMC/Transmode. http://gmcmotorhome.info/chassis.html#Rear
>
>
>
> and this one -
> electric fuel pump has to stop with engine - in case of fire -power w/o
> diodes, they fail shorted (on).
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/engine.html#pump
>
>
>
> We can add the link above to the sentence below already under ELECTRICAL.
>
>
>
> Power to electrical fuel pumps routed through a low/no oil pressure sender.
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/engine.html#pump
>
>
> and
> to get rid of rubber fuel lines, use this
> http://goo.gl/9uxwC
> http://goo.gl/tId0q
>
>
> just added this because, you talked about changing rubber lines.
gene
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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| Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED [message #148141 is a reply to message #148113] |
Sat, 29 October 2011 11:51 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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|
Mr ERFisher wrote on Sat, 29 October 2011
I would like to know who first brought the Poly Amour line to the GMCnet, to
give them credit. This is the greatest thing going to help re-plumb the
fuel lines (and brake lines).
gene
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
�Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
[url |
http://gmcmotorhome.info/[/url]
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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Gene, that might have been me in this message: [message #141995] Not that i need any "credit" for it and it might have been mentioned by someone else earlier.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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| Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED [message #148145 is a reply to message #148064] |
Sat, 29 October 2011 13:02 |
KB
Messages: 1262
Registered: September 2009
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
> I would like to know who first brought the Poly Amour line to the GMCnet, to
> give them credit. This is the greatest thing going to help re-plumb the
> fuel lines (and brake lines).
I think that might have been me. I discovered it last June when researching
how to fix a broken brake line for the one-ton install. It's in my early drafts
of the document.
Or maybe I'm hallucinating again.
Karen
1973 23'
1975 26'
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Karen
1975 26'
San Jose, CA
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| Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED [message #148150 is a reply to message #148146] |
Sat, 29 October 2011 15:20 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Senior Member |
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So - are the brake lines in the GMC 1/4" or 5/16"? I need to replace the ones in my Palm Beach, and I have the time to cut and form and flare them.... but not the shekels to buy them preformed and fitted.
Â
-=-johnny
23' 76 transmode - norris
'76 palm beach
Â
________________________________
From: gene Fisher <mr.erfisher@gmail.com>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Saturday, October 29, 2011 2:27 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED
great find
got you on the find
http://goo.gl/fifoN
gene
On Sat, Oct 29, 2011 at 11:02 AM, KB <kab7@sonic.net> wrote:
> > I would like to know who first brought the Poly Amour line to the GMCnet,
> to
> > give them credit. This is the greatest thing going to help re-plumb the
> > fuel lines (and brake lines).
>
> I think that might have been me. I discovered it last June when
> researching
> how to fix a broken brake line for the one-ton install. It's in my early
> drafts
> of the document.
>
> Or maybe I'm hallucinating again.
>
> Karen
> 1973 23'
> 1975 26'
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
âGive a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED [message #148161 is a reply to message #148064] |
Sat, 29 October 2011 18:44 |
KB
Messages: 1262
Registered: September 2009
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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> So - are the brake?lines in the GMC 1/4" or 5/16"?? I need to replace the ones in my Palm Beach, and I have the time to cut and form and flare them.... but not the shekels to buy them preformed and fitted.
The front ones on our coaches are 3/16". I haven't looked at the back lines to see
if they're the same. Cheap to replace since a 25' roll of poly armour is
something like $20 and you can "rent" the tools for free from autozone.
I didn't get a bender because this stuff is so easy to work, but they
have benders for rent too. I suggest getting extra line since it takes
a little practice to make good flares.
See:
http://machinesoflovinggrace.net/gmc/frontend/Images/Picture%20284-trim.jpg
Karen
1973 23
1975 26
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Karen
1975 26'
San Jose, CA
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| Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED [message #148162 is a reply to message #148157] |
Sat, 29 October 2011 18:55 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Senior Member |
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OK, one 1/4" from the MC to the proportioning valve, front inlet, 1 3/16" from MC to proportioning valve rear brakes inlet, and 3 3/16" lines from proportionming valve to each front disc plus rear, correct? No 5/16 at all. I got a new proportioning valve, I'll get fittings with the line.
thanks.
Johnny
'76 23foot Transmode Norris (which works)
'76 Palm Beach (which is brakeless)
________________________________
From: Rob Mueller <robmueller@iinet.net.au>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Saturday, October 29, 2011 7:22 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED
Johnny,
There are 3/16" and 1/4" brake lines.
The line that goes from the master cylinder to the combination valve that supplies the front disk brakes is 1/4".
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=26032
All the rest are 3/16".
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Johnny Bridges
So - are the brake lines in the GMC 1/4" or 5/16"? I need to replace the ones in my Palm Beach, and I have the time to cut and form
and flare them.... but not the shekels to buy them preformed and fitted.
-=-johnny
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
|
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| Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED [message #148163 is a reply to message #148161] |
Sat, 29 October 2011 19:05 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Senior Member |
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Thanks, I've flaring tools, and the local Advance has rolls of PolyArmor. 20 bux. Wanted to be sure of the size.
--johnny
'76 23' transmode Norris
'76 (no brakes) Palm Beach
________________________________
From: KB <kab7@sonic.net>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Saturday, October 29, 2011 7:44 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] GMCer's Fire Prevention Guide - POSTED
> So - are the brake?lines in the GMC 1/4" or 5/16"?? I need to replace the ones in my Palm Beach, and I have the time to cut and form and flare them.... but not the shekels to buy them preformed and fitted.
The front ones on our coaches are 3/16". I haven't looked at the back lines to see
if they're the same. Cheap to replace since a 25' roll of poly armour is
something like $20 and you can "rent" the tools for free from autozone.
I didn't get a bender because this stuff is so easy to work, but they
have benders for rent too. I suggest getting extra line since it takes
a little practice to make good flares.
See:
http://machinesoflovinggrace.net/gmc/frontend/Images/Picture%20284-trim.jpg
Karen
1973 23
1975 26
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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