| [GMCnet] OOP's MY BAD [message #143355] |
Wed, 14 September 2011 15:10  |
Steve Phillips
Messages: 63
Registered: February 2004
Karma: 0
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Member |
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Hi All
I made a mistake when I said I need a Pittman arm; That is
wrong;;;; I need a DRAG LINK for my 23 ft Birch. It MUST BE 19 inches
long .. The GM dealers do carry the one that is 13 and 1 inches l long
'' this will not work,
I am building the front end and ad this is about the only thing
that seems to be loose.
Help is appreciated
Steve
phone calls excepted
406-443 824
or 406 431-6600
Helena
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| Re: [GMCnet] OOP's MY BAD [message #143379 is a reply to message #143365] |
Wed, 14 September 2011 17:39  |
 |
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Steve,
Here's a message I posted awhile back that will help you figger out your problem.
QUOTE
Here's a link to a procedure I wrote to check the steering from the steering wheel to the tie rod ends.
http://www.gmceast.com/technical/Mueller_Steering_Inspection_Guide.pdf
There is a problem with this procedure, the tie rod ends CANNOT be checked the way it I said to do it in the procedure. I learned
that from Steve F. and JimK.
To check the tie rod ends the coach MUST be sitting on all six wheels with the front wheels pointed straight ahead as they would be
driving down the road.
At Bean Station Al Samsel has a pit that you can drive a GMC over and I checked the steering in three GMC's. To check the tie rod
ends I stuck my index finger up under the rubber boot and had the tip on both the ball and socket. The driver moved the steering
wheel a bit to the left and back to the right. On two of the GMC's I could not feel any movement between the ball and socket on any
of the tie rod ends, on the third GMC I could feel movement on all four tie rod ends. That verified that you could check the tie rod
ends in situ. But ONLY with all six wheels on the ground and the steering pointed straight ahead!
I need to re-write the procedure to reflect "right" way to check the tie rod ends but I just have been busy with other projects
here.
If you don't have manuals you can find them all here on Bdub's website:
http://www.bdub.net/factory-manuals.html
Here's a link for Maintenance Manual X-7525:
http://www.bdub.net/manuals/X7525/index.html
Also download Supplement X-7625
http://www.bdub.net/manuals/X7625/index.html
As Steve F. also noted setting the ride height before you align the front end is most important. The procedures to set the ride
heights (front & rear) can be found in the Maintenance Manual.
Set the front end ride height first as per pages 3A-19 & 20. AS NOTED IN THE MM DO NOT ATTEMPT TO TURN THE ADJUSTING BOLT UNLESS THE
TORSION BAR IS UNLOADED, YOU RUN THE RISK OF STRIPPING THE ADJUSTING BOLT!
Set the rear end ride height as per and page 4-34.
It is also most important to have the steering box centered as per Pitman Shaft "Over-Center" Sector Adjustment as per the procedure
on page 9-38.
BTW the alignment specs in the MM were written in the days of bias ply tires, now-a-days we run radials. There have been a number of
clever buggers experimenting with the alignment on GMC's the general consensus is to set the following:
Camber: 0°
Caster: as much as you can get with the Camber at 0°
Toe in/out: 0 inches.
To do this have the alignment shop turn the rear adjusters on the upper control arm so that the bolts are as close to the frame as
possible and only adjust the front bolt. By doing this the rear bushing is as close to the frame as possible which moves the upper
ball joint towards the rear of the coach which will get the max caster possible. To get more caster you can install offset bushings
in the upper control arm rear "legs" or install a set of Dave Lenzi's modified upper control arms.
UNQUOTE
Regards,
Rob
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of steve
Hi RD
After you replaced the Drag Link did it help in handling the Coach?my
Birch has a habit of "darting" and I was hoping this will help, I hate
to keep throwing parts at it.
Steve
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] OOP's MY BAD [message #143428 is a reply to message #143424] |
Wed, 14 September 2011 21:25 |
jimk
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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The darting your addressing, I bet it happens on the asphalt roads, correct.
Your wasting your time on that part.
Reason for the darting is your tires are radial and they like to climb
the ruts on the road.
Only way to reduce that is to have the front and rear run on the same
part of the rut.
We have found that a 2" front spacer will do the trick, as long as
other parts are not excessively worn.
On Wed, Sep 14, 2011 at 10:15 PM, R.D. Hart <regor5556@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> I replaced everything except steering box and the joint in the shaft. Â Made a difference, but still have some play. Â Replaced the joint and the box, but have not road tested yet, had some engine trouble, almost done.
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--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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Jim Kanomata
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www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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