Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » changing head bolts - i don't want to screw this up
| changing head bolts - i don't want to screw this up [message #142282] |
Sat, 03 September 2011 18:08  |
hertfordnc
Messages: 1164
Registered: September 2009
Location: East NC
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
OK, it was over a year ago i blew the head gasket, took off both heads and did a lot of little things while i had it apart. Some months later I put got it back together and blew the OPPOSITE head gasket.
I'm pretty sure the problem was bad head bolts (combined with an inept mechanic)
I am finally getting around to dealing with this.
I have new head bolts and gaskets.
The left head did not leak so I am not planning to remove it.
I'm thinking I will just remove the head cover and swap out the bolts.
But the whole head bolt torque ting has a been a mystery to me so there's no reason to think i know what I'm doing now.
SO if there are any tips i should know about, i welcome your input.
Dave & Ellen Silva
Hertford, NC
76 Birchaven, 1-ton and other stuff
Currently planning the Great american Road Trip Summer 2021
It's gonna take a lot of Adderall to get this thing right.
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] changing head bolts - i don't want to screw this up [message #142295 is a reply to message #142282] |
Sat, 03 September 2011 20:35  |
 |
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Dave,
Considering your experience with this project to date if I were you I'd err on the side of caution and:
1) pull both the heads
2) use a tap to clean out the bolt holes for the heads on both sides
3) flush the bolt holes with brake cleaner after stuffing all four cylinders with clean rags
4) blow out the brake cleaner with air
5) make sure the mating surfaces were clean
6) follow the procedure as found on page 6A-38 Engine in the GMC MM X-7525 manual below to the letter
INSTALLATION
1. Use a new head gasket and coat both sides with part No. 1050026 sealer or equivalent. Install gasket with bead facing cylinder.
Comment: Follow the gasket maker's instructions vis-à-vis installing the gasket and sealer.
2. Clean and dip cylinder head bolts in engine oil.
3. Install cylinder head and torque bolts to 60 ft. lbs. in sequence as shown in Figure 28. Then retorque in sequence to 85 ft. lbs.
Since pictures can't be pasted into a GMCnet email here's the sequence:
Figure 28
Intake manifold
7 5 1 3 9
8 6 2 4 10
Exhaust manifold
The procedure continues detailing how to install the push rods, rocker arms, valve cover, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, carb
air cleaner but I'm not willing to type that all out. You can download the manual here:
http://www.bdub.net/factory-manuals.html
STOP THE PRESSES!!!! STOP THE PRESSES!!!! STOP THE PRESSES!!!! STOP THE PRESSES!!!!
For the hell of it I checked MM Supplements X-7625 and MM X-7725. There wasn't anything in X-7625 but look what I found in X-7725!
CAUTION: Gasket surfaces on both the head and the block must be clean of any foreign matter and free of nicks or heavy scratches.
The cylinder head bolt threads into the block and threads on cylinder head bolt must be cleaned. Dirt will affect bolt torque.
INSTALLATION
Head gaskets are a special composition gasket that must be used WITHOUT a sealer. These gaskets are to be installed with the
contrasting color stripe facing "up". Use a new head gasket.
1. Clean and dip cylinder head bolts in engine oil.
2. Install cylinder head and torque bolts to 100 ft. lbs. in sequence as shown in figure 28. Then retorque in sequence to 130 ft.
lbs.
Figure 28
Intake manifold
7 5 1 3 9
8 6 2 4 10
Exhaust manifold
QUERY: Is the increased torque due to the head gasket material or because this is for a 403 engine?
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Of dave silva
OK, it was over a year ago i blew the head gasket, took off both heads and did a lot of little things while i had it apart. Some
months later I put got it back together and blew the OPPOSITE head gasket.
I'm pretty sure the problem was bad head bolts (combined with an inept mechanic)
I am finally getting around to dealing with this.
I have new head bolts and gaskets.
The left head did not leak so I am not planning to remove it.
I'm thinking I will just remove the head cover and swap out the bolts.
But the whole head bolt torque ting has a been a mystery to me so there's no reason to think i know what I'm doing now.
SO if there are any tips i should know about, i welcome your input.
Dave
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] changing head bolts - i don't want to screw this up [message #142301 is a reply to message #142295] |
Sat, 03 September 2011 21:02 |
Kosier
Messages: 834
Registered: February 2008
Karma: 1
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Rob,
455 head bolts are 7/16", 403 head bolts are 1/2" That might
account for
the difference in torque.
Gary Kosier
77EII & 77PB
Newark, Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Mueller" <robmueller@iinet.net.au>
To: <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2011 9:35 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] changing head bolts - i don't want to screw
this up
Dave,
Considering your experience with this project to date if I were
you I'd err on the side of caution and:
1) pull both the heads
2) use a tap to clean out the bolt holes for the heads on both
sides
3) flush the bolt holes with brake cleaner after stuffing all
four cylinders with clean rags
4) blow out the brake cleaner with air
5) make sure the mating surfaces were clean
6) follow the procedure as found on page 6A-38 Engine in the GMC
MM X-7525 manual below to the letter
INSTALLATION
1. Use a new head gasket and coat both sides with part No.
1050026 sealer or equivalent. Install gasket with bead facing
cylinder.
Comment: Follow the gasket maker's instructions vis-à-vis
installing the gasket and sealer.
2. Clean and dip cylinder head bolts in engine oil.
3. Install cylinder head and torque bolts to 60 ft. lbs. in
sequence as shown in Figure 28. Then retorque in sequence to 85
ft. lbs.
Since pictures can't be pasted into a GMCnet email here's the
sequence:
Figure 28
Intake manifold
7 5 1 3 9
8 6 2 4 10
Exhaust manifold
The procedure continues detailing how to install the push rods,
rocker arms, valve cover, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, carb
air cleaner but I'm not willing to type that all out. You can
download the manual here:
http://www.bdub.net/factory-manuals.html
STOP THE PRESSES!!!! STOP THE PRESSES!!!! STOP THE PRESSES!!!!
STOP THE PRESSES!!!!
For the hell of it I checked MM Supplements X-7625 and MM X-7725.
There wasn't anything in X-7625 but look what I found in X-7725!
CAUTION: Gasket surfaces on both the head and the block must be
clean of any foreign matter and free of nicks or heavy scratches.
The cylinder head bolt threads into the block and threads on
cylinder head bolt must be cleaned. Dirt will affect bolt torque.
INSTALLATION
Head gaskets are a special composition gasket that must be used
WITHOUT a sealer. These gaskets are to be installed with the
contrasting color stripe facing "up". Use a new head gasket.
1. Clean and dip cylinder head bolts in engine oil.
2. Install cylinder head and torque bolts to 100 ft. lbs. in
sequence as shown in figure 28. Then retorque in sequence to 130
ft.
lbs.
Figure 28
Intake manifold
7 5 1 3 9
8 6 2 4 10
Exhaust manifold
QUERY: Is the increased torque due to the head gasket material or
because this is for a 403 engine?
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Of dave silva
OK, it was over a year ago i blew the head gasket, took off both
heads and did a lot of little things while i had it apart. Some
months later I put got it back together and blew the OPPOSITE
head gasket.
I'm pretty sure the problem was bad head bolts (combined with an
inept mechanic)
I am finally getting around to dealing with this.
I have new head bolts and gaskets.
The left head did not leak so I am not planning to remove it.
I'm thinking I will just remove the head cover and swap out the
bolts.
But the whole head bolt torque ting has a been a mystery to me so
there's no reason to think i know what I'm doing now.
SO if there are any tips i should know about, i welcome your
input.
Dave
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
| Re: changing head bolts - i don't want to screw this up [message #142303 is a reply to message #142282] |
Sat, 03 September 2011 21:11 |
 |
Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
|
Senior Member |
|
|
| hertfordnc wrote on Sat, 03 September 2011 19:08 |
OK, it was over a year ago i blew the head gasket, took off both heads and did a lot of little things while i had it apart. Some months later I put got it back together and blew the OPPOSITE head gasket.
I'm pretty sure the problem was bad head bolts (combined with an inept mechanic)
I am finally getting around to dealing with this.
I have new head bolts and gaskets.
The left head did not leak so I am not planning to remove it.
I'm thinking I will just remove the head cover and swap out the bolts.
But the whole head bolt torque ting has a been a mystery to me so there's no reason to think i know what I'm doing now.
SO if there are any tips i should know about, i welcome your input.
|
OK Dave,
Remember Me?
I'm the guy that used to be McCord Gaskets heavy duty, aftermarket, and racing program..... (Do you remember McCord?)
There is no reason this cannot be a complete success.
Before we get too far, let me lay some ideas on you.
Torquing bolts is not about torque- It is all about the tension that the fastener ends up having in it when you are done. Think of the head bolts as giant (REALLY GIANT) springs. What you are doing is cocking those springs with a screw thread. Got That?
Why Springs?
Because everything moves. During an engines thermal cycle, the head actually sides on the block. (I'm the guy that developed the means to measure this to design successful gaskets.) The head casting also expands more than both the cylinder block and the bolts.
If you remove, replace and re-tension the fasteners one at a time, the order is not real important. Cylinder head torque patterns really only come in two types - Center Cross and Circle Out. Olds have always been center cross (section 6A,figure 28). It will be easiest on your brain to do that on both sides. Why is there a pattern? Because: A - you are compressing the gasket to be compliant with the deck surafaces and, B - The cylinder head bends. It is flexible enough that the tension of one fastener can affect the load of an adjacent fastener.
So, let's set this up right.
First, cleanliness isn't just next to godliness, it is more important than that. The only means you have to establish the tension in the fasteners is with torque. Anything at all - particularly crud- can mess up the torque/tension relationship and you end up with less tension in the fastener.
See if one of your local real automotive shops can get you a passage brush about head bolt size. This is about a 2ft long wire or very stiff brush. Don't be afraid to cut it down if it is too long to handle.
You also should have a air nozzle long enough to reach the bottom of the bolt holes. And a can of brake cleaner or other solvent with a long snout and plenty of rags.
The book says dip the fasteners in oil, this is essentially a mistake to both say and do. Lay out the whole set of bolts on a clean rag and put a drop of oil at the head and run a line of oil down the threads. They need to sit like that until is looks like all the oil has run off. Too much oil can actually cause problems.
Procedure is like this:
Pull out the old head bolt,
Squirt cleaner down the hole,
Jam the brush down the hole,
Run it back up the hole with a reverse drill motor,
Put the air nozzle down the hole,
Wrap a rag around it and blow,
Put a drop of oil on the bearing surface of the head,
Drop in a bolt (technically a hex head caps screw),
Run it down and seat it to snug,
Pull the fastener to design torque (tension)
**** 85#ft **** This is the replacement side only ****
In the case of the bolt replacement side, all you have to do is get to that final value to get the required tension.
We will now add the steps for the new gasket side later.
Clean the bolt holes just as above before you even lay on the cylinder head gasket and the cylinder head.
These you can do all at once (parallel instead of serial)
Again a drop of oil on the head's bearing surface,
Drop in the bolts and run then to touch only,
In the center cross pattern, pull the bolts to snug (15~30# - no torque wrench required),
Set - or mark in the case of a beam type - your wrench at 65#ft,
Run the pattern,
Set the wrench to 85#ft and run the pattern again.
Unfortunately, the engine dress precludes a re-torque after a heat cycle, but this is almost as good.
Wait at least one day, then go back and pull all the fasteners at install torque again. You may feel some move, you may not. If it does more, that is free clamp load and that is good.
Another thing about tensioning fasteners by torque, it sucks. It just happens to be the standard used when these engines were designed and built. A DOD study identified seventy five (75) variables that can significantly effect the torque/tension relationship. In my own labs we routinely saw a thirty five (35) percent scatter in tension of fasteners installed by torque alone. That is a seventy (70) percent scatter at three sigma of the total value! What does this matter? A good mechanic can guess closer. So, if you just have a feeling that a fastener is not developing the tension when the wrench says it should - PAY Attention. You may be right. Nothing says you can't pull that bolt out, look at, wipe it off, re-clean the hole and try again.
I bet I left something out or wasn't completely clear about on some part. So, if you can figure out what to ask - I'm here and will be until Wednesday afternoon. Then there will be a day or so enroute to Goshen when I may not have time for the net.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] changing head bolts - i don't want to screw this up [message #142310 is a reply to message #142303] |
Sat, 03 September 2011 21:34 |
|
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
|
Senior Member |
|
|
G'day,
Yeah, I vaguely seem to remember you and even though that memory is vague I'd say; forget what I and the MM "said" do what Matt
says!
Reading what you said if you install studs and put a dial indicator on top of them to measure the amount of stretch as you torque
the nuts would result in much more even torque on the heads?
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Colie
OK Dave,
Remember Me?
I'm the guy that used to be McCord Gaskets heavy duty, aftermarket, and racing program..... (Do you remember McCord?)
There is no reason this cannot be a complete success.
Before we get too far, let me lay some ideas on you.
Torquing bolts is not about torque- It is all about the tension that the fastener ends up having in it when you are done. Think of
the head bolts as giant (REALLY GIANT) springs. What you are doing is cocking those springs with a screw thread. Got That?
Why Springs?
Because everything moves. During an engines thermal cycle, the head actually sides on the block. (I'm the guy that developed the
means to measure this to design successful gaskets.) The head casting also expands more than both the cylinder block and the bolts.
If you remove, replace and re-tension the fasteners one at a time, the order is not real important. Cylinder head torque patterns
really only come in two types - Center Cross and Circle Out. Olds have always been center cross (section 6A,figure 28). It will be
easiest on your brain to do that on both sides. Why is there a pattern? Because: A - you are compressing the gasket to be
compliant with the deck surafaces and, B - The cylinder head bends. It is flexible enough that the tension of one fastener can
affect the load of an adjacent fastener.
So, let's set this up right.
First, cleanliness isn't just next to godliness, it is more important than that. The only means you have to establish the tension
in the fasteners is with torque. Anything at all - particularly crud- can mess up the torque/tension relationship and you end up
with less tension in the fastener.
See if one of your local real automotive shops can get you a passage brush about head bolt size. This is about a 2ft long wire or
very stiff brush. Don't be afraid to cut it down if it is too long to handle.
You also should have a air nozzle long enough to reach the bottom of the bolt holes. And a can of brake cleaner or other solvent
with a long snout and plenty of rags.
The book says dip the fasteners in oil, this is essentially a mistake to both say and do. Lay out the whole set of bolts on a clean
rag and put a drop of oil at the head and run a line of oil down the threads. They need to sit like that until is looks like all
the oil has run off. Too much oil can actually cause problems.
Procedure is like this:
Pull out the old head bolt,
Squirt cleaner down the hole,
Jam the brush down the hole,
Run it back up the hole with a reverse drill motor,
Put the air nozzle down the hole,
Wrap a rag around it and blow,
Put a drop of oil on the bearing surface of the head,
Drop in a bolt (technically a hex head caps screw),
Run it down and seat it to snug,
Pull the fastener to design torque (tension)
**** 85#ft **** This is the replacement side only ****
In the case of the bolt replacement side, all you have to do is get to that final value to get the required tension.
We will now add the steps for the new gasket side later.
Clean the bolt holes just as above before you even lay on the cylinder head gasket and the cylinder head.
These you can do all at once (parallel instead of serial)
Again a drop of oil on the head's bearing surface,
Drop in the bolts and run then to touch only,
In the center cross pattern, pull the bolts to snug (15~30# - no torque wrench required),
Set - or mark in the case of a beam type - your wrench at 65#ft,
Run the pattern,
Set the wrench to 85#ft and run the pattern again.
Unfortunately, the engine dress precludes a re-torque after a heat cycle, but this is almost as good.
Wait at least one day, then go back and pull all the fasteners at install torque again. You may feel some move, you may not. If it
does more, that is free clamp load and that is good.
Another thing about tensioning fasteners by torque, it sucks. It just happens to be the standard used when these engines were
designed and built. A DOD study identified seventy five (75) variables that can significantly effect the torque/tension
relationship. In my own labs we routinely saw a thirty five (35) percent scatter in tension of fasteners installed by torque alone.
That is a seventy (70) percent scatter at three sigma of the total value! What does this matter? A good mechanic can guess closer.
So, if you just have a feeling that a fastener is not developing the tension when the wrench says it should - PAY Attention. You
may be right. Nothing says you can't pull that bolt out, look at, wipe it off, re-clean the hole and try again.
I bet I left something out or wasn't completely clear about on some part. So, if you can figure out what to ask - I'm here and will
be until Wednesday afternoon. Then there will be a day or so enroute to Goshen when I may not have time for the net.
Matt
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] changing head bolts - i don't want to screw this up [message #142312 is a reply to message #142310] |
Sat, 03 September 2011 21:44 |
|
Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
|
Senior Member |
|
|
| Robert Mueller wrote on Sat, 03 September 2011 22:34 |
G'day,
Yeah, I vaguely seem to remember you and even though that memory is vague I'd say; forget what I and the MM "said" do what Matt
says!
Reading what you said if you install studs and put a dial indicator on top of them to measure the amount of stretch as you torque the nuts would result in much more even torque on the heads?
Regards,
Rob M.
|
Rob,
The dial indicator on the top of the stud is great for solid joints, (like a propeller hub) but on a gasketed joint that has a compliant element that may not be completely consistent, the compression of the gasket will be greater than the fastener stretch. There are ways around this, but they are all real expensive.
Hey Rob,
Out of interest,
How many times did you have a torque wrench lie to you?
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] changing head bolts - i don't want to screw this up [message #142319 is a reply to message #142312] |
Sat, 03 September 2011 22:40 |
|
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Matt,
I see you figger'd out why I asked the question!
Torquing the barrel bolts on the C-130 and other split hub props required measuring the amount the bolts stretched. The nuts that
held the barrel together had the studs that held the rear spinner to the hub.
You can see them in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsETDEgejpw&NR=1
What you can't see is the holes in the studs that required a pin to be inserted so you could measure the stretch. The nuts were
torqued to a low value, vernier calipers were used to measured the length, you would turn the nut and measure the length of the bolt
every so often until you got to the specified length. By doing that you wound up with the same amount of "pressure" on the barrel
halves all the way round the prop.
Good point, I never had a torque wrench lie to me. ;-)
By the way my middle initials are O.C. which stands for Overkill Crazy!
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Colie
Rob,
The dial indicator on the top of the stud is great for solid joints, (like a propeller hub) but on a gasketed joint that has a
compliant element that may not be completely consistent, the compression of the gasket will be greater than the fastener stretch.
There are ways around this, but they are all real expensive.
Hey Rob,
Out of interest,
How many times did you have a torque wrench lie to you?
Matt
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] changing head bolts - i don't want to screw this up [message #142344 is a reply to message #142319] |
Sun, 04 September 2011 06:03 |
hertfordnc
Messages: 1164
Registered: September 2009
Location: East NC
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Wow, that is a deluge of information.
I did install both heads according to the book with sealant so I am reluctant to remove the head that did not leak.
I'm pretty sure the failure was in the torqueing- it was freezing, i was working in small snatches of spare time over several cold evenings. I didn't check the calibration on the loaner torque wrench and in the end the bolts are clearly stretched.
After I get it together how long does it have to go before i can be reasonably sure it will hold?
Dave & Ellen Silva
Hertford, NC
76 Birchaven, 1-ton and other stuff
Currently planning the Great american Road Trip Summer 2021
It's gonna take a lot of Adderall to get this thing right.
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] changing head bolts - i don't want to screw this up [message #142927 is a reply to message #142319] |
Sat, 10 September 2011 04:21 |
Guy Lopes
Messages: 499
Registered: April 2004
Location: Sacramento, CA
Karma: 3
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Rob,
I would have sworn that was a P-3 Orion prop hub! Lol
Guy
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
[mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Rob Mueller
Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2011 8:40 PM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] changing head bolts - i don't want to screw this up
Matt,
I see you figger'd out why I asked the question!
Torquing the barrel bolts on the C-130 and other split hub props required
measuring the amount the bolts stretched. The nuts that
held the barrel together had the studs that held the rear spinner to the
hub.
You can see them in this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsETDEgejpw&NR=1
What you can't see is the holes in the studs that required a pin to be
inserted so you could measure the stretch. The nuts were
torqued to a low value, vernier calipers were used to measured the length,
you would turn the nut and measure the length of the bolt
every so often until you got to the specified length. By doing that you
wound up with the same amount of "pressure" on the barrel
halves all the way round the prop.
Good point, I never had a torque wrench lie to me. ;-)
By the way my middle initials are O.C. which stands for Overkill Crazy!
Regards,
Rob M.
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Guy Lopes
76 Birchaven "Orion"
Sacramento, CA
W6TOL
www.GMC-Guy.com
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] changing head bolts - i don't want to screw this up [message #142936 is a reply to message #142931] |
Sat, 10 September 2011 10:41 |
 |
mike miller
Messages: 3576
Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I think they also used that same "motor" on the OV-10. Only two of them, so half the power of a P-3 or C-130, but only a little bigger than a Cessna!
| Robert Mueller wrote on Sat, 10 September 2011 06:50 |
Jeez, you're makin' me exercise them memory cells!
C-130 = 54H60-117
P-3 = 54H60-77
E2 = 54460-1
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Guy Lopes
>>
>> I would have sworn that was a P-3 Orion prop hub! Lol
|
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo'
http://m000035.blogspot.com
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: changing head bolts - i don't want to screw this up [message #142959 is a reply to message #142303] |
Sat, 10 September 2011 20:37 |
midlf
Messages: 2212
Registered: July 2007
Location: SE Wisc. (Palmyra)
Karma: 1
|
Senior Member |
|
|
| mcolie wrote on Sat, 03 September 2011 21:11 |
[See if one of your local real automotive shops can get you a passage brush about head bolt size. This is about a 2ft long wire or very stiff brush. Don't be afraid to cut it down if it is too long to handle.
Matt
|
My local hardware store has brass gun cleaning brushes in various gages and bores that I use for this job. They are reasonably priced and easily available.
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Goto Forum:
Current Time: Sun Oct 20 03:49:56 CDT 2024
Total time taken to generate the page: 0.01783 seconds
|
GMCforum
Search
Help
Register
Login
Home
