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| [GMCnet] Electrical problem... [message #140185] |
Sat, 20 August 2011 10:21  |
gmc gmc
Messages: 69
Registered: May 2009
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Hi all... was going to drive my 78 to a show today...
It is in driveway now and plugged in to garage 110. all plugs work, BUT no
light work no water pump! It all used to work....
any ideas why not power to those things?
I did have couple wires on generator chewed over winter I am seeing.
thanks for all help. or can call me also to get me going... 608-242-7700
weird problem maybe not real sure.
Thanks
Mike Derr, Madison WI
ps: the second drawer down of closet will not open at all. it lifts but for
life of me I can not get it open the slightest amount.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Electrical problem... [message #140187 is a reply to message #140185] |
Sat, 20 August 2011 10:40  |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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My initial reaction with your limited description is your converter is turned off and the house batteries are dead.
You have three basic electrical system in the coach.
1. 120 Volt AC which you say works.
2. 12 volt DC for the living area which I assume you are saying does not work.
3. 12 DC for the engine, headlights, etc. which I do not know if it works or not.
If the engine runs then start it and see if the engine alternator will power the living area lights and charge the house batteries.
We need more information on what works and what does not work to help you more.
Ken B.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Electrical problem... [message #140191 is a reply to message #140185] |
Sat, 20 August 2011 10:58 |
Andrew
Messages: 213
Registered: April 2011
Location: Connecticut
Karma: 0
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My 1973 has a fuse block with two lighting circuits. Have you checked fuses? If you've seen varmint damage, beware that they might have created a problem that will blow fuses and/or start a fire.
I'd start with fuses, check the resistance of the load side to ground (should be high/infinite with light switches off, much lower with switches on, but never zero).
If you've lost three circuits (two lighting and the one for the water pump?) then you might have scary chewing to worry about. Be cautious. Check all the circuits for shorts.
1973 Sequoia 260 (since 2011)
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| Re: [GMCnet] Electrical problem... [message #140214 is a reply to message #140197] |
Sat, 20 August 2011 13:24 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Well I would start at the house batteries and work forward.
Do you have 12 volts across the house batteries?
The strange thing is it does not work on the converter, the house batteries or on the engine driven alternator and no fuses are blown. What is common to all three power sources. Loss of power to the fuse panel? How about also checking for 12 volts to the fuse panel.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Electrical problem... [message #140220 is a reply to message #140214] |
Sat, 20 August 2011 14:46 |
powerjon
Messages: 2446
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Ken, your right, I would start with the batteries and check to assure
that the batteries are wired neg. to chassis ground, pos. to Neg.
between batteries and to chassis pos. Should be 12vdc between the
outside neg. and the outside pos. I had a club member that put them
in wrong so it can be done. They all look black from the top and get
one battery 180 out and it doesn't work.
J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
78 Buskirk 30' Stretch
1975 Avion (Under Reconstruction)
Michigan
On Aug 20, 2011, at 2:24 PM, Ken Burton wrote:
>
>
> Well I would start at the house batteries and work forward.
> Do you have 12 volts across the house batteries?
>
> The strange thing is it does not work on the converter, the house
> batteries or on the engine driven alternator and no fuses are
> blown. What is common to all three power sources. Loss of power
> to the fuse panel? How about also checking for 12 volts to the
> fuse panel.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
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| Re: [GMCnet] Electrical problem... [message #140295 is a reply to message #140220] |
Sun, 21 August 2011 03:40 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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I'm just trying to figure out if his batteries are dead and if he really has a source of 12 volt power in the house system. It confuses me that he should have three sources of 12 VDC (battery converter and engine driven alternator) and none of them will power two different things. I just figured that the battery was as good a place to start and work forward from there. He probably has a bad or corroded connection going to the fuse panel but I would like to know what voltage reading he has at the battery first.
Ken B.
| powerjon wrote on Sat, 20 August 2011 14:46 |
Ken, your right, I would start with the batteries and check to assure
that the batteries are wired neg. to chassis ground, pos. to Neg.
between batteries and to chassis pos. Should be 12vdc between the
outside neg. and the outside pos. I had a club member that put them
in wrong so it can be done. They all look black from the top and get
one battery 180 out and it doesn't work.
J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
78 Buskirk 30' Stretch
1975 Avion (Under Reconstruction)
Michigan
On Aug 20, 2011, at 2:24 PM, Ken Burton wrote:
>
>
> Well I would start at the house batteries and work forward.
> Do you have 12 volts across the house batteries?
>
> The strange thing is it does not work on the converter, the house
> batteries or on the engine driven alternator and no fuses are
> blown. What is common to all three power sources. Loss of power
> to the fuse panel? How about also checking for 12 volts to the
> fuse panel.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
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Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Electrical problem... [message #140306 is a reply to message #140295] |
Sun, 21 August 2011 09:57 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Senior Member |
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In mine, >if< he turns off the battery switch, he will get the result he's getting. But, mine's a Norris upfit, the electrics both 110 and 12V are somewhat different than the GMC stuff in the book. It has two switches in the electric cabinetry, in addition to the 12V supply and 110 breaker box. One is the SHORE - GENSET switch, the other is the BATTERY switch. The latter disconnects the house battery feed. The former precludes replugging the AC feed cable.
--johnny
--- On Sun, 8/21/11, Ken Burton <n9cv@comcast.net> wrote:
From: Ken Burton <n9cv@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Electrical problem...
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Date: Sunday, August 21, 2011, 8:40 AM
I'm just trying to figure out if his batteries are dead and if he really has a source of 12 volt power in the house system. It confuses me that he should have three sources of 12 VDC (battery converter and engine driven alternator) and none of them will power two different things. I just figured that the battery was as good a place to start and work forward from there. He probably has a bad or corroded connection going to the fuse panel but I would like to know what voltage reading he has at the battery first.
Ken B.
powerjon wrote on Sat, 20 August 2011 14:46
> Ken, your right, I would start with the batteries and check to assure
> that the batteries are wired neg. to chassis ground, pos. to Neg.
> between batteries and to chassis pos. Should be 12vdc between the
> outside neg. and the outside pos. I had a club member that put them
> in wrong so it can be done. They all look black from the top and get
> one battery 180 out and it doesn't work.
>
> J.R. Wright
> GMC GreatLaker
> 78 Buskirk 30' Stretch
> 1975 Avion (Under Reconstruction)
> Michigan
>
> On Aug 20, 2011, at 2:24 PM, Ken Burton wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Well I would start at the house batteries and work forward.
> > Do you have 12 volts across the house batteries?
> >
> > The strange thing is it does not work on the converter, the house
> > batteries or on the engine driven alternator and no fuses are
> > blown. What is common to all three power sources. Loss of power
> > to the fuse panel? How about also checking for 12 volts to the
> > fuse panel.
> > --
> > Ken Burton - N9KB
> > 76 Palm Beach
> > Hebron, Indiana
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: [GMCnet] Electrical problem... [message #140390 is a reply to message #140306] |
Mon, 22 August 2011 07:17 |
gmc gmc
Messages: 69
Registered: May 2009
Karma: 0
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Member |
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you all were right. I had the 2 golf cart 6V batteries on house wired wrong.
All corrected now and all works great. My mistake.
Thanks for great trouble shooting.
appreciate it
thanks
Mike
On Sun, Aug 21, 2011 at 10:57 AM, Johnny Bridges <jhbridges@ymail.com>wrote:
> In mine, >if< he turns off the battery switch, he will get the result he's
> getting. But, mine's a Norris upfit, the electrics both 110 and 12V are
> somewhat different than the GMC stuff in the book. It has two switches in
> the electric cabinetry, in addition to the 12V supply and 110 breaker box.
> One is the SHORE - GENSET switch, the other is the BATTERY switch. The
> latter disconnects the house battery feed. The former precludes replugging
> the AC feed cable.
>
> --johnny
>
>
> --- On Sun, 8/21/11, Ken Burton <n9cv@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> From: Ken Burton <n9cv@comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Electrical problem...
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Date: Sunday, August 21, 2011, 8:40 AM
>
>
>
>
> I'm just trying to figure out if his batteries are dead and if he really
> has a source of 12 volt power in the house system. It confuses me that he
> should have three sources of 12 VDC (battery converter and engine driven
> alternator) and none of them will power two different things. I just
> figured that the battery was as good a place to start and work forward from
> there. He probably has a bad or corroded connection going to the fuse panel
> but I would like to know what voltage reading he has at the battery first.
>
> Ken B.
>
> powerjon wrote on Sat, 20 August 2011 14:46
> > Ken, your right, I would start with the batteries and check to assure
> > that the batteries are wired neg. to chassis ground, pos. to Neg.
> > between batteries and to chassis pos. Should be 12vdc between the
> > outside neg. and the outside pos. I had a club member that put them
> > in wrong so it can be done. They all look black from the top and get
> > one battery 180 out and it doesn't work.
> >
> > J.R. Wright
> > GMC GreatLaker
> > 78 Buskirk 30' Stretch
> > 1975 Avion (Under Reconstruction)
> > Michigan
> >
> > On Aug 20, 2011, at 2:24 PM, Ken Burton wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > Well I would start at the house batteries and work forward.
> > > Do you have 12 volts across the house batteries?
> > >
> > > The strange thing is it does not work on the converter, the house
> > > batteries or on the engine driven alternator and no fuses are
> > > blown. What is common to all three power sources. Loss of power
> > > to the fuse panel? How about also checking for 12 volts to the
> > > fuse panel.
> > > --
> > > Ken Burton - N9KB
> > > 76 Palm Beach
> > > Hebron, Indiana
>
>
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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