Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » DIY alignment, another version
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| Re: [GMCnet] DIY alignment, another version [message #137989 is a reply to message #137987] |
Mon, 08 August 2011 07:53   |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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[quote title=Mr ERFisher wrote on Mon, 08 August 2011 08:40] I am still trying to follow this:
so if you do not want to calculate the caster ( just set to max)
you do not need a rotation plate - is that correct?
just park on a level surface
center the steering
set the height (by the book)
set the tow in = 0 ( measure f/ b from a good tread)
set the camber = 0 (use a digital level across the rim)
set the caster at = max (set the offset bushings)
drive the GMC 10 miles
and do it again.
This is "necessary and sufficient" for the GMC?
gene
Mr. ERF: it is my understanding that Caster is set first at max, then camber is set at 0, then toe is set last to 0 in that order. The reason for using plates to set caster is to get R & L the same. For an unknown reason it seems that the drivers side will end up with more caster at max setting than the pass.
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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| Re: [GMCnet] DIY alignment, another version [message #137991 is a reply to message #137987] |
Mon, 08 August 2011 07:59 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Pretty much, except that your sequence is wrong. Should be:
just park on a level surface
center the steering
set the height (by the book)
set the caster at = max (with or without offset bushings)
set the camber = 0 (use a digital level across the rim)
set the toe in = 0 ( measure f/ b from a good tread)
drive the GMC 10 miles
and do it again.
If it drives good, that's "necessary & sufficient". Watch tread wear to be
sure.
Ken H.
On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 8:40 AM, gene Fisher <mr.erfisher@gmail.com> wrote:
> I am still trying to follow this:
>
> so if you do not want to calculate the caster ( just set to max)
>
> you do not need a rotation plate - is that correct?
>
> just park on a level surface
> center the steering
> set the height (by the book)
> set the tow in = 0 ( measure f/ b from a good tread)
> set the camber = 0 (use a digital level across the rim)
> set the caster at = max (set the offset bushings)
>
> drive the GMC 10 miles
> and do it again.
>
> This is "necessary and sufficient" for the GMC?
>
> gene
>
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] DIY alignment, another version [message #137996 is a reply to message #137991] |
Mon, 08 August 2011 08:27 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
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cool, good list
what I am hearing was:
The last few "professional" alignments that I saw here
said the caster was different on each side, when they were finished....
The consensus was, that this was ok ?
at the very least, we can check our current alignment by ourselves, at
home.....
gene
Pretty much, except that your sequence is wrong. Should be:
>
> just park on a level surface
> center the steering
> set the height (by the book)
> set the caster at = max (with or without offset bushings)
> set the camber = 0 (use a digital level across the rim)
> set the toe in = 0 ( measure f/ b from a good tread)
>
> drive the GMC 10 miles
> and do it again.
>
> If it drives good, that's "necessary & sufficient". Watch tread wear to be
> sure.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
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http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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| Re: DIY alignment, another version [message #137997 is a reply to message #137983] |
Mon, 08 August 2011 08:46 |
g.winger
Messages: 792
Registered: February 2008
Location: Warrenton,Missouri
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No,,, you do not want castor to be diffrent side to side. Thie is called cross castor. This is what causes pull. Or the wheel to pull to one side. Thats why you just don't set castor to "max' on both sides. It could be 2-3 degrees off.,,,,,,PL
Paul Leavitt
78 RB Royale
500 Caddy galvanized frame
Hubler front
Still no dash,,,,but I do maintain alignment machines that have done 2.2 million alignments,,,,,
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| Re: [GMCnet] DIY alignment, another version [message #138000 is a reply to message #137997] |
Mon, 08 August 2011 08:53 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
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It could be 2-3 degrees off.,,,,,,PL
well we are getting down to the short strokes on this
alignment issue.
2 to 3 degrees off --- sounds like a little exaggeration
since we cannot even get over 3 degrees --- max---.
a little "un-level" of the air system, would cause more caster than that
....
so would an alignment error of 1 degree, would that be a lot on our GMCs ??
and is that enough to cause a problem on our 12 ton monsters?
gene
> Paul Leavitt
> 78 RB Royale
> 500 Caddy galvanized frame
> Hubler front
> Still no dash,,,,but I do maintain alignment machines that have done
> 2.2 million alignments,,,,,
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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| Re: [GMCnet] DIY alignment, another version [message #138013 is a reply to message #137997] |
Mon, 08 August 2011 10:11 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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IF the caster on the pass side is 4 degrees, the driver side should be also,
under normal alignment proceedures. The same can be said of camber, both
sides the same. Toe in is a little more subject to interpretation. Some
prefer a little toe out when stationary on a front wheel drive, knowing that
when the suspension is under power that the front wheels will have a
tendency to drive around center and become slightly toed in. My preference
as well as many others, is to set the toe at 0 to 1/16" toed in. If it is
not wearing tires excessively, AND it does not pull consistently to one side
or the other, AND the steering has a neutral feel at highway speeds, then
probably best not to mess with it further. and yes I have also found that it
takes a few miles on a GMC suspension after a ride height adjustment to get
one to "take a set" or to settle into the place where it will remain
normally. Your results may vary.
Jim Hupy
Salem, OR
78 GMC Royale 403
On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 6:46 AM, Paul Leavitt <leavittpaul@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> No,,, you do not want castor to be diffrent side to side. Thie is called
> cross castor. This is what causes pull. Or the wheel to pull to one side.
> Thats why you just don't set castor to "max' on both sides. It could be 2-3
> degrees off.,,,,,,PL
>
> Paul Leavitt
> 78 RB Royale
> 500 Caddy galvanized frame
> Hubler front
> Still no dash,,,,but I do maintain alignment machines that have done
> 2.2 million alignments,,,,,
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] DIY alignment, another version [message #138032 is a reply to message #138000] |
Mon, 08 August 2011 12:20 |
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mike miller
Messages: 3576
Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Karma: 0
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| Mr ERFisher wrote on Mon, 08 August 2011 06:53 |
... and is that enough to cause a problem on our 12 ton monsters?
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6 tons
United States and Canada ton (short ton) = 2000 pounds
United Kingdom ton (long ton) = 2,240 pounds
Metric ton (tonne) = 1,000 kilograms = 2,205 pounds
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo'
http://m000035.blogspot.com
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| Re: DIY alignment, another version [message #138173 is a reply to message #137983] |
Tue, 09 August 2011 11:24 |
voodoolng
Messages: 40
Registered: February 2004
Location: Colo
Karma: 0
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If your looking for a slick pivot for your front tires. Try using your old front bearings.
Take in bearing one inner and outer race w/bearings and tack weld a plate on each race on the out side. on will need the space to clear the plate. Presto you have a turning pedistal that will turn like butter. Place under wheels and you can turn with your hands.
Can post a picture if needed. Thats how I do it when aligning the front end.
You guys with the one ton fronts don't forget that the truck spindle ball joint positions are different that the stock spindles, there is more of an offset for your caster when the wheels turn and the 4th aligmnet demension. Thats the smile shape on a happy face.
73 Glacier Voodoo lounge
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| Re: [GMCnet] DIY alignment, another version [message #138183 is a reply to message #138179] |
Tue, 09 August 2011 12:59 |
voodoolng
Messages: 40
Registered: February 2004
Location: Colo
Karma: 0
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Member |
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If I understand you correctly.
The is no movement. The plates are parrell and horizontial. The bottom of the wheel sets on the upper plate. The bearing is just like on the coach but laying horizontial.
It helps when putting on the bearing plate lift up the coach under the A frame so suspensition has less movement on its set stance. I also lift the rear up the extra inch and quater for the bearing height.
Hope this helps.
I have had my 1 ton in for two years now and love it.
I also set the front end up 0-0-3 degress caster.
Will post a picture this evening in the voodoolng photos of the bearing plates.
73 Glacier Voodoo lounge
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