Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] blue sea fuse box
| [GMCnet] blue sea fuse box [message #133394] |
Tue, 05 July 2011 12:26  |
john arbuckle
Messages: 122
Registered: March 2010
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Hey everyone not sure if my last mail sent think I deleted it. Well
again I have purchased this blue sea fuse block and it has connections
for positive and negative wires from all devices. My stock fuse block
seems to only have one wire per device. Are the devices grounded to a
body ground somewhere else or do I need to connect anything to these
multiple negative connections. Any help would be great
Thank you
John Arbuckle
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| Re: [GMCnet] blue sea fuse box [message #133402 is a reply to message #133394] |
Tue, 05 July 2011 13:10  |
idrob
Messages: 645
Registered: January 2005
Location: Central Idaho
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| john arbuckle wrote on Tue, 05 July 2011 10:26 |
Hey everyone not sure if my last mail sent think I deleted it. Well
again I have purchased this blue sea fuse block and it has connections
for positive and negative wires from all devices. My stock fuse block
seems to only have one wire per device. Are the devices grounded to a
body ground somewhere else or do I need to connect anything to these
multiple negative connections. Any help would be great
Thank you
John Arbuckle
|
You only need the one hot wire to the fuse block, and from each fuse to the device served. On the GMC, the coach frame serves as the ground (negative, or return) path. Each 12 volt device has one hot wire to it, and a negative to a local connection to the frame of the coach.
Rob Allen
former owner of '76 x-PB
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| Re: [GMCnet] blue sea fuse box [message #133545 is a reply to message #133394] |
Wed, 06 July 2011 18:11 |
Larry C
Messages: 1168
Registered: July 2004
Location: NE Illinois by the Illino...
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In explanation, ;you have a Blue Sea fuse block which is a marine device for a boat. Most boats are fiber glass these days so a ground wire would be common to bring back to the fuse block on the ground bar.
the GMC grounds on the body frame so you don't need to run a ground wire unless you want to.
The power wire would go to a fuse/cb location, the ground would go to the frame, unless your wiring diagram requires something else.
Just an explanation, as I see it
Gatsbys' CRUISER  08-18-04
74 GLACIER X, 260/455-APC-4 Bagg'r
Remflex Manifold gaskets
CampGrounds needed, Add yours to "PLACES" />
http://www.gmceast.com/travel
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| Re: [GMCnet] blue sea fuse box [message #133809 is a reply to message #133402] |
Fri, 08 July 2011 13:30 |
john arbuckle
Messages: 122
Registered: March 2010
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I have the hot wire connected from the converter and battery connected
to the positive terminal on the new fuse block. In the instructions it
seems I need to run a negative from the negative bus to the negative
terminal on the battery. Is this true seeing we are not using the neg
part of the fuse block. Or do I ground the converter directly to the
frame, or the neg bus part of the fuse block to the frame. To me this
sound like lots of grounding. The rest I have all connected. grounding
it seems to be my confusion.
Thank you
John Arbuckle
1976 Palm Beach
On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 11:10 AM, Rob Allen <profmail@wildblue.net> wrote:
>
>
> john arbuckle wrote on Tue, 05 July 2011 10:26
>> Hey everyone not sure if my last mail sent think I deleted it. Well
>> again I have purchased this blue sea fuse block and it has connections
>> for positive and negative wires from all devices. My stock fuse block
>> seems to only have one wire per device. Are the devices grounded to a
>> body ground somewhere else or do I need to connect anything to these
>> multiple negative connections. Any help would be great
>>
>> Thank you
>> John Arbuckle
>
>
> You only need the one hot wire to the fuse block, and from each fuse to the device served. On the GMC, the coach frame serves as the ground (negative, or return) path. Each 12 volt device has one hot wire to it, and a negative to a local connection to the frame of the coach.
>
> --
> Rob Allen
> former owner of '76 x-PB
> _______________________________________________
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| Re: [GMCnet] blue sea fuse box [message #133810 is a reply to message #133809] |
Fri, 08 July 2011 13:44 |
Larry C
Messages: 1168
Registered: July 2004
Location: NE Illinois by the Illino...
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Sir, if you need a dedicated ground, you would run the negative from the battery to the ground bus. Your coach frame is already grounded so no need to ground there.
If there is a chance you may need a dedicated ground in the future, now is the time to run a gound wire to the ground bus.
At this point, I dont see a reason to run a ground wire, but would make testing easier if you were testing equipment and needed a handy ground at the breaker box.
The converter is usually grounded at the battery terminal. You are using fairly high amp rates so the pos and neg of the converter are generally connected directly to the batter. The positive may have a fuse inline to the pos batt pole.
It will work grounded to the frame but you may have a problem with DC supply when using high loading.
my thought
Gatsbys' CRUISER 08-18-04
74 GLACIER X, 260/455-APC-4 Bagg'r
Remflex Manifold gaskets
CampGrounds needed, Add yours to "PLACES" />
http://www.gmceast.com/travel
_
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| Re: [GMCnet] blue sea fuse box [message #133862 is a reply to message #133810] |
Sat, 09 July 2011 00:30 |
john arbuckle
Messages: 122
Registered: March 2010
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The original converter was not grounded to the negative battery
terminal. So I should run the converter negative al the way to the
house battery and not ground it on the frame? And if running that
ground back could run the neg bus ground back as well to leave those
open for use at later dates? Is that even in the general area of
correct? Thank you all for the assistance. This will hopefully help
from a fire occuring.
John Arbuckle
Tucson AZ
1976 Palm Beach
On Fri, Jul 8, 2011 at 11:44 AM, Larry <slawrence111@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> Sir, if you need a dedicated ground, you would run the negative from the battery to the ground bus. Your coach frame is already grounded so no need to ground there.
>
> If there is a chance you may need a dedicated ground in the future, now is the time to run a gound wire to the ground bus.
>
> At this point, I dont see a reason to run a ground wire, but would make testing easier if you were testing equipment and needed a handy ground at the breaker box.
>
> The converter is usually grounded at the battery terminal. You are using fairly high amp rates so the pos and neg of the converter are generally connected directly to the batter. The positive may have a fuse inline to the pos batt pole.
>
> It will work grounded to the frame but you may have a problem with DC supply when using high loading.
>
>
> my thought
> --
> Gatsbys' CRUISER :d
> 74 GLACIER X, 260
> 455/APC/4 bagg'r(ver3)
> Remflex Manifold gaskets
> _______________________________________________
> Purchased 08-18-04
>
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>
>
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] blue sea fuse box [message #133863 is a reply to message #133862] |
Sat, 09 July 2011 01:07 |
Larry C
Messages: 1168
Registered: July 2004
Location: NE Illinois by the Illino...
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John, I am not trying to confuse you but I want to see you do it right.
What I am understanding is you have a BLUE SEA fuse/breaker panel, that is not a big problem.
AND you are wiring an AC converter????? Or an INVERTER???
If it is a CONVERTER that charges the battery and supplies power to the coach, you can connect the POS on the battery lead by the fuse box. the heavy cable ( that you connected to the Blue SEA Pos term) that goes to the fuse link then the battery Pos should be sufficient.
If it is an INVERTER, the 12vdc cable needs to be able to carry the load needed and is recommended to be as short as possible. Size of this cable is determined by the size of the inverter.
there should be a wiring diagram of the GMC motor home out there that should be very helpful to you.
I apologize if I am getting deep here. I am feeling out what you are working with. The CONVERTER is fairly normal connections while the INVERTER needs specific connections.
I hope this was helpful
Gatsbys' CRUISER 08-18-04
74 GLACIER X, 260/455-APC-4 Bagg'r
Remflex Manifold gaskets
CampGrounds needed, Add yours to "PLACES" />
http://www.gmceast.com/travel
_
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| Re: [GMCnet] blue sea fuse box [message #133869 is a reply to message #133862] |
Sat, 09 July 2011 07:19 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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John,
Don't make a trivial job complicated. Duplicate the original wiring
as much as possible. Ground the new converter to the same location as
the old. Renew the connection to the body, preferably with a size
larger wire if you're installing a higher output converter. At the
very least, use a star washer between the connector and the body,
liberally doused with an anti-corrosive paste like NoAlOx, DeOx,
Penetrox, or other available at Lowes or Home Depot.
If you want the ground buss on the BlueSea connected for
troubleshooting, or to use for some local connections, fine, but DON'T
bother to run everything to it -- there's NO necessity when you're
surrounded by "ground" everywhere there's aluminum around you. Why
double the number of wires running to every current consumer in the
coach? Furrin cars with that wiring method are, almost without
exception, prone to troublesome electrical problems.
As far as fire, be much more concerned about the Hot wires -- they're
the ones in danger because they're always near that big aluminum
ground which, is, must, and always will be there. Be sure the hot
wires are well insulated, loomed, sheathed and carefully routed. AND,
that all their connections are clean and tight. ALWAYS fuse them with
appropriately rated fuses.
JMHO, backed up with a little education and experience,
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Sat, Jul 9, 2011 at 1:30 AM, john arbuckle <jarbuckle1209@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The original converter was not grounded to the negative battery
> terminal. So I should run the converter negative al the way to the
> house battery and not ground it on the frame? And if running that
> ground back could run the neg bus ground back as well to leave those
> open for use at later dates? Is that even in the general area of
> correct? Thank you all for the assistance. This will hopefully help
> from a fire occuring.
>
_______________________________________________
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Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] blue sea fuse box [message #133885 is a reply to message #133869] |
Sat, 09 July 2011 10:15 |
john arbuckle
Messages: 122
Registered: March 2010
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Thank you that sums it up. I am just going to wire it the same as the
original. So I need to insulate the power wire? with what. Again
thanks for the help. And yes it is a converter not an inverter.
JOHN ARBUCKLE
On Sat, Jul 9, 2011 at 5:19 AM, Ken Henderson <hend4800@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> John,
> Don't make a trivial job complicated. Duplicate the original wiring
> as much as possible. Ground the new converter to the same location as
> the old. Renew the connection to the body, preferably with a size
> larger wire if you're installing a higher output converter. At the
> very least, use a star washer between the connector and the body,
> liberally doused with an anti-corrosive paste like NoAlOx, DeOx,
> Penetrox, or other available at Lowes or Home Depot.
>
> If you want the ground buss on the BlueSea connected for
> troubleshooting, or to use for some local connections, fine, but DON'T
> bother to run everything to it -- there's NO necessity when you're
> surrounded by "ground" everywhere there's aluminum around you. Why
> double the number of wires running to every current consumer in the
> coach? Furrin cars with that wiring method are, almost without
> exception, prone to troublesome electrical problems.
>
> As far as fire, be much more concerned about the Hot wires -- they're
> the ones in danger because they're always near that big aluminum
> ground which, is, must, and always will be there. Be sure the hot
> wires are well insulated, loomed, sheathed and carefully routed. AND,
> that all their connections are clean and tight. ALWAYS fuse them with
> appropriately rated fuses.
>
> JMHO, backed up with a little education and experience,
>
> Ken H.
> Americus, GA
> '76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
> www.gmcwipersetc.com
>
>
> On Sat, Jul 9, 2011 at 1:30 AM, john arbuckle <jarbuckle1209@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> The original converter was not grounded to the negative battery
>> terminal. So I should run the converter negative al the way to the
>> house battery and not ground it on the frame? And if running that
>> ground back could run the neg bus ground back as well to leave those
>> open for use at later dates? Is that even in the general area of
>> correct? Thank you all for the assistance. This will hopefully help
>> from a fire occuring.
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] blue sea fuse box [message #133886 is a reply to message #133885] |
Sat, 09 July 2011 10:17 |
john arbuckle
Messages: 122
Registered: March 2010
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Oh yeah I ran a power wire to the pos bus on the fuse block and the
original power cable from the battery connects there as well. Is there
a fuse some where in the original power cable or is the fuse in the
converter for the power source good enough?
John Arbuckle.
On Sat, Jul 9, 2011 at 8:15 AM, john arbuckle <jarbuckle1209@gmail.com> wrote:
> Thank you that sums it up. I am just going to wire it the same as the
> original. So I need to insulate the power wire? with what. Again
> thanks for the help. And yes it is a converter not an inverter.
>
> JOHN ARBUCKLE
>
> On Sat, Jul 9, 2011 at 5:19 AM, Ken Henderson <hend4800@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>> John,
>> Don't make a trivial job complicated. Duplicate the original wiring
>> as much as possible. Ground the new converter to the same location as
>> the old. Renew the connection to the body, preferably with a size
>> larger wire if you're installing a higher output converter. At the
>> very least, use a star washer between the connector and the body,
>> liberally doused with an anti-corrosive paste like NoAlOx, DeOx,
>> Penetrox, or other available at Lowes or Home Depot.
>>
>> If you want the ground buss on the BlueSea connected for
>> troubleshooting, or to use for some local connections, fine, but DON'T
>> bother to run everything to it -- there's NO necessity when you're
>> surrounded by "ground" everywhere there's aluminum around you. Why
>> double the number of wires running to every current consumer in the
>> coach? Furrin cars with that wiring method are, almost without
>> exception, prone to troublesome electrical problems.
>>
>> As far as fire, be much more concerned about the Hot wires -- they're
>> the ones in danger because they're always near that big aluminum
>> ground which, is, must, and always will be there. Be sure the hot
>> wires are well insulated, loomed, sheathed and carefully routed. AND,
>> that all their connections are clean and tight. ALWAYS fuse them with
>> appropriately rated fuses.
>>
>> JMHO, backed up with a little education and experience,
>>
>> Ken H.
>> Americus, GA
>> '76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
>> www.gmcwipersetc.com
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Jul 9, 2011 at 1:30 AM, john arbuckle <jarbuckle1209@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> The original converter was not grounded to the negative battery
>>> terminal. So I should run the converter negative al the way to the
>>> house battery and not ground it on the frame? And if running that
>>> ground back could run the neg bus ground back as well to leave those
>>> open for use at later dates? Is that even in the general area of
>>> correct? Thank you all for the assistance. This will hopefully help
>>> from a fire occuring.
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>>
>
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| [GMCnet] Fwd: blue sea fuse box [message #133887 is a reply to message #133886] |
Sat, 09 July 2011 10:22 |
john arbuckle
Messages: 122
Registered: March 2010
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: john arbuckle <jarbuckle1209@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, Jul 9, 2011 at 8:17 AM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] blue sea fuse box
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Oh yeah I ran a power wire to the pos bus on the fuse block and the
original power cable from the battery connects there as well. Is there
a fuse some where in the original power cable or is the fuse in the
converter for the power source good enough?
John Arbuckle.
On Sat, Jul 9, 2011 at 8:15 AM, john arbuckle <jarbuckle1209@gmail.com> wrote:
> Thank you that sums it up. I am just going to wire it the same as the
> original. So I need to insulate the power wire? with what. Again
> thanks for the help. And yes it is a converter not an inverter.
>
> JOHN ARBUCKLE
>
> On Sat, Jul 9, 2011 at 5:19 AM, Ken Henderson <hend4800@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>> John,
>> Don't make a trivial job complicated. Duplicate the original wiring
>> as much as possible. Ground the new converter to the same location as
>> the old. Renew the connection to the body, preferably with a size
>> larger wire if you're installing a higher output converter. At the
>> very least, use a star washer between the connector and the body,
>> liberally doused with an anti-corrosive paste like NoAlOx, DeOx,
>> Penetrox, or other available at Lowes or Home Depot.
>>
>> If you want the ground buss on the BlueSea connected for
>> troubleshooting, or to use for some local connections, fine, but DON'T
>> bother to run everything to it -- there's NO necessity when you're
>> surrounded by "ground" everywhere there's aluminum around you. Why
>> double the number of wires running to every current consumer in the
>> coach? Furrin cars with that wiring method are, almost without
>> exception, prone to troublesome electrical problems.
>>
>> As far as fire, be much more concerned about the Hot wires -- they're
>> the ones in danger because they're always near that big aluminum
>> ground which, is, must, and always will be there. Be sure the hot
>> wires are well insulated, loomed, sheathed and carefully routed. AND,
>> that all their connections are clean and tight. ALWAYS fuse them with
>> appropriately rated fuses.
>>
>> JMHO, backed up with a little education and experience,
>>
>> Ken H.
>> Americus, GA
>> '76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
>> www.gmcwipersetc.com
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Jul 9, 2011 at 1:30 AM, john arbuckle <jarbuckle1209@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> The original converter was not grounded to the negative battery
>>> terminal. So I should run the converter negative al the way to the
>>> house battery and not ground it on the frame? And if running that
>>> ground back could run the neg bus ground back as well to leave those
>>> open for use at later dates? Is that even in the general area of
>>> correct? Thank you all for the assistance. This will hopefully help
>>> from a fire occuring.
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>>
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] blue sea fuse box [message #133893 is a reply to message #133885] |
Sat, 09 July 2011 11:07 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
|
Senior Member |
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John,
I presume the "power wire" is a short, well insulated 8g. or so wire
running only a short distance from your fuse block to the junction
block on the beltline longitudinal member behind the equipment
cabinet. It's probably not near any metal, so is probably safe enough
with additional insulation if well secured. If you're not comfortable
with it, put a corrugated loom or similar around it.
The fuse in the converter is sufficient to protect the line to the
junction block and forward toward the battery, and to the fuse block
and connected accessories. A bigger concern is what protection is at
the battery, and the cable leading to it. Near the battery, beneath
the passenger's feet if up front, or on the rear wall of the battery
compartment if in the rear, there should be a "hockey puck" CB,
40A-50A, IIRC, with the power cable wired to it. Without that CB, the
main power cable through the driver's side wall is unprotected from
the 300A+ the battery is capable of suppying for a short time -- far
longer than needed to ignite 'most anything in the coach in the case
of a short.
If you didn't read the thread last week about the power cable through
the driver's side wall, you should do so -- someone posted some very
dramatic and enlightening photos of the cable they removed with
disintegrating insulation. That should be a MAJOR concern for ALL of
us.
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Sat, Jul 9, 2011 at 11:15 AM, john arbuckle wrote:
> Thank you that sums it up. I am just going to wire it the same as the
> original. So I need to insulate the power wire? with what. Again
> thanks for the help. And yes it is a converter not an inverter.
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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