Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Original windows in '73...
| [GMCnet] Original windows in '73... [message #128798] |
Sun, 05 June 2011 18:46  |
kelvin
Messages: 608
Registered: February 2004
Location: Eugene, OR
Karma: 0
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These things are annoying...
This winter I pulled all of my windows out (one by one) and stripped
them to bare aluminum, primed them and painted them black. Sealed them
back into the coach with new butyl tape. Sticky stuff, that.
I had no leaks before which is why I ignored the advice to take them
apart and seal those seams. And judging by how poorly the windows were
sealed to the openings I'm very surprised they weren't leaking around
the edges.
But now the window at the foot of the bed insists on leaking at those
lower seams. I've masked a 1/2" area and put a nice polyurethane seal
on the outside seam. I've even sealed in the "grooves" where the glass
run goes. Nope... both lower seams insist on leaking.
I suppose I'll be pulling this window out again and disassembling it and
resealing it. I'm so excited. Not expecting the steel screws that
screw the aluminum frames together to come out easily.
Hoping it doesn't rain for the short trip this weekend. I hate it when
I stretch and my toes find wet sheets. Takes some of the fun out of the
sound of rain on an aluminum roof...
Any pointers? I'll be attacking this in a couple weeks.
TIA,
Kelvin
'73 23' in Eugene, OR
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| Re: [GMCnet] Original windows in '73... [message #128802 is a reply to message #128798] |
Sun, 05 June 2011 19:16  |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
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Check to make sure the drains at the bottom of the windows are clear
Sully
77 royale
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelvin Dietz <kelvin@datsuns.com>
Sender: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
Date: Sun, 05 Jun 2011 16:46:31
To: <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
Reply-To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: [GMCnet] Original windows in '73...
These things are annoying...
This winter I pulled all of my windows out (one by one) and stripped
them to bare aluminum, primed them and painted them black. Sealed them
back into the coach with new butyl tape. Sticky stuff, that.
I had no leaks before which is why I ignored the advice to take them
apart and seal those seams. And judging by how poorly the windows were
sealed to the openings I'm very surprised they weren't leaking around
the edges.
But now the window at the foot of the bed insists on leaking at those
lower seams. I've masked a 1/2" area and put a nice polyurethane seal
on the outside seam. I've even sealed in the "grooves" where the glass
run goes. Nope... both lower seams insist on leaking.
I suppose I'll be pulling this window out again and disassembling it and
resealing it. I'm so excited. Not expecting the steel screws that
screw the aluminum frames together to come out easily.
Hoping it doesn't rain for the short trip this weekend. I hate it when
I stretch and my toes find wet sheets. Takes some of the fun out of the
sound of rain on an aluminum roof...
Any pointers? I'll be attacking this in a couple weeks.
TIA,
Kelvin
'73 23' in Eugene, OR
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Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Original windows in '73... [message #128804 is a reply to message #128798] |
Sun, 05 June 2011 19:33 |
 |
mike miller
Messages: 3576
Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
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| Kelvin Dietz wrote on Sun, 05 June 2011 16:46 |
...
But now the window at the foot of the bed insists on leaking at those
lower seams. ....
....
Any pointers? I'll be attacking this in a couple weeks.
|
Find "new" windows.
Really...
There are nice NEW windows, but for the more cost conscious (cheap) among us, the windows from a 75 or newer coach are a MUCH better design than your early windows. (Herr widows IIRC.) Besides fewer leak points, you do not need to open the screen to open the window. (Then close the screen while the window is open.) Plus they just look better.
Someone once said one of the windows on an early GMC upfitted 23 foot was "special" but I THINK the rear-most windows are the same size on both the 26 and 23's. So you should be able to find a pair of them fairly cheap. I am fairly sure "the Jims" know for sure if they will fit.
If you HAVE to keep your early windows, note that the INSIDE of the lower center section is a DRAIN CHANNEL for the area that the felts sit in. (On this design, the felts are on the OUTSIDE of the coach and will collect water.) So the splines on the inside HAVE to be well sealed... or you'll always have leaks.
You might want to tint the windows before installing them. For a non-professional, it is MUCH easier to get the tint in place, with no bubbles, if the windows are laying on a table or stand. You also can use as much water as you want.
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo'
http://m000035.blogspot.com
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| Re: [GMCnet] Original windows in '73... [message #128814 is a reply to message #128798] |
Sun, 05 June 2011 20:47 |
KB
Messages: 1262
Registered: September 2009
Karma: 0
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Attached is part of what I wrote previously on the topic. I'd pulled the '73 windows
and sealed everything but the splines and they still leaked, so I got to do
it again. I learned that the drain holes at the bottom of the glass basically drain
into where the splines are mounted in the frame. Water runs between the frame
and the splines and then into the coach. Since you've already done this before,
the rest of my old post is redundant.
Here's a picture of the splines that have to be sealed to the frame:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=36813
I've wondered if some kind of very liquid sealant applied through the upper drain
holes would work, but haven't tried it. Something thin enough to seal the
spline/frame leak, but not clog the outside drain slots. Radiator sealant maybe?? dunno.
hope this helps,
Karen
> On the '73, there are aluminum splines holding the four frame
> pieces together. They're held in with some really hard screws.
> We found that if you don't disassemble it and apply some good
> quality goop liberally to those splines, the windows will still leak, a lot.
> Many here recommend a good quality marine sealant like the 5200 you
> can get at West Marine.
>
> To get the spline screws out, we used a bit brace and some penetrating oil
> (automatic tranny fluid and acetone in equal parts is good and cheap).
> Lay the window face down on a padded surface like a blanket.
> With the bit brace, you can really lean your weight into the screws
> to keep the bit from slipping. Sometimes screwing it in slightly will
> break it loose when going the other way doesn't work.
> If you strip the screw heads, they're *really* difficult to remove.
> They're extremely hard, so trying to drill them out usually mean you slip and
> put a hole in the softer aluminum instead. You might consider replacing the screws
> with stainless when putting it back together. We also painted the frames while
> it was apart.
>
> We used 5/64" (or 2mm) glass setting tape to replace the rubber on the
> fixed window sections. You can get this from auto glass suppliers or online.
> A little soapy water helps when installing these.
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Karen
1975 26'
San Jose, CA
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| Re: [GMCnet] Original windows in '73... [message #128828 is a reply to message #128816] |
Sun, 05 June 2011 21:59 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Don't know why I've never mentioned: I've got one of the large
windows, late style, I think, in a crate. It's been in that crate for
at least 10-12 years, probably 20. It came to me when I bought the
X-PB and I know for a fact it had been in there for at least 6 years
before that -- possibly many more. It looks good, but someone will
have to tell me how to be sure it's new style & what it's worth.
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Sun, Jun 5, 2011 at 9:54 PM, Dan Gregg <gregg_dan@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Kelvin, I have been picking up the newer windows, first design, one at a time for 3 years. Got three of them. Does not hurt so bad this way. Now to get Teri to install them.
> Dan
> --
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Original windows in '73... [message #128829 is a reply to message #128802] |
Sun, 05 June 2011 22:09 |
kelvin
Messages: 608
Registered: February 2004
Location: Eugene, OR
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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On 6/5/2011 5:16 PM, sgltrac@gmail.com wrote:
>>Check to make sure the drains at the bottom of the windows are clear
Very much clear. And the proper drains cut into the window felt.
Peter Bailey writes:
>>To do the job properly take the window out and seal it as the water
>leak could be coming in anywhere around the frame above the actual
>exit point. really hard to locate unless the whole frame is sealed
>again from outside,so out is better.
These have all been out, cleaned, repainted and sealed back to the body
nicely. I can see they're leaking from the lower joints. Took off the
trim and lower aluminum "clamping" extrusion. It's those dang seams...
Kelvin
> From: Kelvin Dietz<kelvin@datsuns.com>
> Sender: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
> Date: Sun, 05 Jun 2011 16:46:31
> To:<gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
> Reply-To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Subject: [GMCnet] Original windows in '73...
>
> These things are annoying...
>
> This winter I pulled all of my windows out (one by one) and stripped
> them to bare aluminum, primed them and painted them black. Sealed them
> back into the coach with new butyl tape. Sticky stuff, that.
>
> I had no leaks before which is why I ignored the advice to take them
> apart and seal those seams. And judging by how poorly the windows were
> sealed to the openings I'm very surprised they weren't leaking around
> the edges.
>
> But now the window at the foot of the bed insists on leaking at those
> lower seams. I've masked a 1/2" area and put a nice polyurethane seal
> on the outside seam. I've even sealed in the "grooves" where the glass
> run goes. Nope... both lower seams insist on leaking.
>
> I suppose I'll be pulling this window out again and disassembling it and
> resealing it. I'm so excited. Not expecting the steel screws that
> screw the aluminum frames together to come out easily.
>
> Hoping it doesn't rain for the short trip this weekend. I hate it when
> I stretch and my toes find wet sheets. Takes some of the fun out of the
> sound of rain on an aluminum roof...
>
>
> Any pointers? I'll be attacking this in a couple weeks.
>
> TIA,
> Kelvin
> '73 23' in Eugene, OR
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: [GMCnet] Original windows in '73... [message #128831 is a reply to message #128804] |
Sun, 05 June 2011 22:15 |
kelvin
Messages: 608
Registered: February 2004
Location: Eugene, OR
Karma: 0
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On 6/5/2011 5:33 PM, Mike Miller wrote:
>
>
> Kelvin Dietz wrote on Sun, 05 June 2011 16:46
>> ... But now the window at the foot of the bed insists on leaking at
>> those lower seams. ....
>>
>> .... Any pointers? I'll be attacking this in a couple weeks.
>
>
> Find "new" windows.
>
> Really...
>
> There are nice NEW windows, but for the more cost conscious (cheap)
> among us, the windows from a 75 or newer coach are a MUCH better
> design than your early windows. (Herr widows IIRC.) Besides fewer
> leak points, you do not need to open the screen to open the window.
> (Then close the screen while the window is open.) Plus they just
> look better.
>
> Someone once said one of the windows on an early GMC upfitted 23 foot
> was "special" but I THINK the rear-most windows are the same size on
> both the 26 and 23's. So you should be able to find a pair of them
> fairly cheap. I am fairly sure "the Jims" know for sure if they will
> fit.
That's an interesting idea. Anyone have a pair of the small "later"
windows? I'm kind of tempted to go this way. Shipping is a bitch, of
course...
> If you HAVE to keep your early windows, note that the INSIDE of the
> lower center section is a DRAIN CHANNEL for the area that the felts
> sit in.
Yeah... I figured this out while chasing these leaks...
And the screws that hold that lower clamping extrusion on go right thru
to the outside. Basically sharing the same area as the outer drains.
Sealing those screws with RTV fixed a LOT of my problem... just not all
of it.
(On this design, the felts are on the OUTSIDE of the coach
> and will collect water.) So the splines on the inside HAVE to be well
> sealed... or you'll always have leaks.
It seems odd that I didn't have leaks before taking the window out and
setting it back in the coach much better than it was before. That's
what I get for messing with stuff...
> You might want to tint the windows before installing them. For a
> non-professional, it is MUCH easier to get the tint in place, with no
> bubbles, if the windows are laying on a table or stand. You also can
> use as much water as you want.
I've very good with window tint if the glass is out of the car (coach).
I'm very BAD if the window is still in. That said, the right side
window (headboard side) isn't leaking so I'm not likely to take it out -
so tinting one window would be kinda odd...
Thanks
Kelvin
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| Re: [GMCnet] Original windows in '73... [message #128832 is a reply to message #128814] |
Sun, 05 June 2011 22:20 |
kelvin
Messages: 608
Registered: February 2004
Location: Eugene, OR
Karma: 0
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Good info, Karen. Man... that looks like a lot of messing around.
I'm sure I could seal it up once I got it apart. Like you point out,
those steel screws into that aluminum part has to be hard to remove.
Bit Brace is a good idea. I think I have one stuck away somewhere.
I've sealed up all of the seam I can get at (careful work with
polyurethane) but I think it's leaking internally. Water getting into
that drain area and leaking thru seams I can't get at to seal. I'm
guessing that taking these windows out must have damaged the OEM
sealing. It's not very impressive looking stuff in there...
Thanks for the info...
That late model window is looking pretty good right now. :^)
Kelvin
On 6/5/2011 6:47 PM, KB wrote:
> Attached is part of what I wrote previously on the topic. I'd pulled the '73 windows
> and sealed everything but the splines and they still leaked, so I got to do
> it again. I learned that the drain holes at the bottom of the glass basically drain
> into where the splines are mounted in the frame. Water runs between the frame
> and the splines and then into the coach. Since you've already done this before,
> the rest of my old post is redundant.
>
> Here's a picture of the splines that have to be sealed to the frame:
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=36813
>
> I've wondered if some kind of very liquid sealant applied through the upper drain
> holes would work, but haven't tried it. Something thin enough to seal the
> spline/frame leak, but not clog the outside drain slots. Radiator sealant maybe?? dunno.
>
> hope this helps,
>
> Karen
>
>
>> On the '73, there are aluminum splines holding the four frame
>> pieces together. They're held in with some really hard screws.
>> We found that if you don't disassemble it and apply some good
>> quality goop liberally to those splines, the windows will still leak, a lot.
>> Many here recommend a good quality marine sealant like the 5200 you
>> can get at West Marine.
>>
>> To get the spline screws out, we used a bit brace and some penetrating oil
>> (automatic tranny fluid and acetone in equal parts is good and cheap).
>> Lay the window face down on a padded surface like a blanket.
>> With the bit brace, you can really lean your weight into the screws
>> to keep the bit from slipping. Sometimes screwing it in slightly will
>> break it loose when going the other way doesn't work.
>> If you strip the screw heads, they're *really* difficult to remove.
>> They're extremely hard, so trying to drill them out usually mean you slip and
>> put a hole in the softer aluminum instead. You might consider replacing the screws
>> with stainless when putting it back together. We also painted the frames while
>> it was apart.
>>
>> We used 5/64" (or 2mm) glass setting tape to replace the rubber on the
>> fixed window sections. You can get this from auto glass suppliers or online.
>> A little soapy water helps when installing these.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] Original windows in '73... [message #128834 is a reply to message #128832] |
Sun, 05 June 2011 22:31 |
 |
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Kelvin,
Crazy idea?
How about this stuff?
http://www.captaintolley.com/
I found this stuff on West Marine's website:
http://tinyurl.com/3gjxjd8
Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
[mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Kelvin Dietz
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2011 1:21 PM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Original windows in '73...
Good info, Karen. Man... that looks like a lot of messing around.
I'm sure I could seal it up once I got it apart. Like you point out,
those steel screws into that aluminum part has to be hard to remove.
Bit Brace is a good idea. I think I have one stuck away somewhere.
I've sealed up all of the seam I can get at (careful work with
polyurethane) but I think it's leaking internally. Water getting into
that drain area and leaking thru seams I can't get at to seal. I'm
guessing that taking these windows out must have damaged the OEM
sealing. It's not very impressive looking stuff in there...
Thanks for the info...
That late model window is looking pretty good right now. :^)
Kelvin
On 6/5/2011 6:47 PM, KB wrote:
> Attached is part of what I wrote previously on the topic. I'd pulled the
'73 windows
> and sealed everything but the splines and they still leaked, so I got to
do
> it again. I learned that the drain holes at the bottom of the glass
basically drain
> into where the splines are mounted in the frame. Water runs between the
frame
> and the splines and then into the coach. Since you've already done this
before,
> the rest of my old post is redundant.
>
> Here's a picture of the splines that have to be sealed to the frame:
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=36813
>
> I've wondered if some kind of very liquid sealant applied through the
upper drain
> holes would work, but haven't tried it. Something thin enough to seal the
> spline/frame leak, but not clog the outside drain slots. Radiator sealant
maybe?? dunno.
>
> hope this helps,
>
> Karen
>
>
>> On the '73, there are aluminum splines holding the four frame
>> pieces together. They're held in with some really hard screws.
>> We found that if you don't disassemble it and apply some good
>> quality goop liberally to those splines, the windows will still leak, a
lot.
>> Many here recommend a good quality marine sealant like the 5200 you
>> can get at West Marine.
>>
>> To get the spline screws out, we used a bit brace and some penetrating
oil
>> (automatic tranny fluid and acetone in equal parts is good and cheap).
>> Lay the window face down on a padded surface like a blanket.
>> With the bit brace, you can really lean your weight into the screws
>> to keep the bit from slipping. Sometimes screwing it in slightly will
>> break it loose when going the other way doesn't work.
>> If you strip the screw heads, they're *really* difficult to remove.
>> They're extremely hard, so trying to drill them out usually mean you slip
and
>> put a hole in the softer aluminum instead. You might consider replacing
the screws
>> with stainless when putting it back together. We also painted the frames
while
>> it was apart.
>>
>> We used 5/64" (or 2mm) glass setting tape to replace the rubber on the
>> fixed window sections. You can get this from auto glass suppliers or
online.
>> A little soapy water helps when installing these.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Original windows in '73... [message #128837 is a reply to message #128798] |
Sun, 05 June 2011 23:13 |
tmaki
Messages: 200
Registered: September 2005
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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On 6/5/2011 4:46 PM, Kelvin Dietz wrote:
> These things are annoying...
>
> I had no leaks before
>
> But now the window at the foot of the bed insists on leaking
> both lower seams insist on leaking.
> I suppose I'll be pulling this window out again and disassembling it and
> resealing it.
>
> Any pointers?
I'm guessing you're referring to the spots where the center
extrusion meets up with the end extrusions. No matter how
much "sealing" you do around the outer periphery, if the
mating surfaces at the extrusions are not sealed, it's a
lost cause. OEM had sealant at those points. You'll see
vestiges of it when you start to disassemble the frame.
When I did mine a couple of months ago, I nearly scrapped
the whole idea, and checked into how much it would cost to
put in new windows. I didn't put in new windows, but if you
are in the money, that would be my first pointer.
Barring that:
1. Work on a soft surface that won't mar your newly painted
frames when you are reassembling them. (Yes, this is a
little out of sequence, but get it set up ahead of time.)
2. If yours are like mine were, you will break several
screws off. No biggie. Easy to drill out, or just grind off
and drill/tap new holes in the splines, and matching ones in
the frame.
3. Regarding the splines: Mark each one as to where it came
from and how it was oriented. Contrary to some romanticized
notions, these are not highly precision
engineered/assembled. Mix up the splines and you will spend
wasted time to figure out where they were, even though there
are only four in each frame.
4. You'll most likely have to beat the frames apart. Wood
2X2, soft-faced hammer. Whack the top a little, whack the
bottom a little. Work them a little at a time. I don't know
if the frame extrusions can be bent, mangled, mutilated,
folded or spindled, but I didn't want to take a chance. They
are hard enough to fit back together, especially if you
didn't mark them. They will likely come apart hard. Or they
will just slide apart. You could get lucky.
5. Don't expect the edges to fit squarely together. Unless
you have access to the factory jigs, you more than likely
are going to have to use big cabinet clamps or ratchet
straps to hold it all together while you re-drill/tap or
otherwise install the screws. And if you do, it all has to
come apart a little to put in a little bead of windshield
sealant on the extrusion mating surfaces. Dry assemble
first, do your drilling/tapping. When you know it all will
go back together correctly, put in your run channel, glass,
etc. and mash it together. Oh yeah, don't forget to reset
your glass on the stationary side. Whole 'nuther thing with
that.
6. If you break screws, note that they are OEM self-tapping.
Self-tappers in that size are not easy to find DTS. Hardware
specialty houses can probably get them for you. I found the
next closest, easily available size, drilled and tapped new
holes in the splines and frames for mine. Drilling out the
old broken screws was nearly futile. If they break above the
surface of the spline, just grind them down flush, and make
a new hole. I just measured carefully and did what had to be
done. Marking where things were originally is a great help.
7. Procure at least 3, and preferably 5 more hands attached
to the necessary number of bodies that can take instruction
without question. When you figure out how you are going to
put the whole thing back together without the glass or run
channel falling out, putting a little teeny bead of
windshield sealant along the mating edges of the extrusions,
clamp it and insert the screws, the thing you don't want to
hear is "Huh?"
8. You already know about the spacers that set the vertical
alignment of the window in the frame. You also already know
about the lower drain slots, yada, yada.
Disclaimer: This is the kind of experience I had with S/N
831. Yours will probably be different. Or it could be
similar. I have no way of knowing. My wish for you is that
it is no where near as difficult to do yours as it was to do
mine.
Toby Maki
'73 Glacier 230
Riverside, Ca
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| Re: [GMCnet] Original windows in '73... [message #128846 is a reply to message #128804] |
Mon, 06 June 2011 07:25 |
Larry C
Messages: 1168
Registered: July 2004
Location: NE Illinois by the Illino...
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There are New Windows.
What a subject...
If you look close at the 1973 GMC Motor Home brochure, the pre production windows were 3 pieces of glass, I assume opening from either end. I actually like the look of it but they must have had issues, I 've never seen one on a production coach.
The production coach has frames that were "pieced" together. My memory tells me these were later changed because of leakage problems at the seams.
TODAY, there are the upgrade windows, two types I can think of
The original upgrade is mostly one piece of glass, at the bottom, there is a short horizontal window on each side/w screen, about 8" high. Someone said they do not ventilate well but the view is fabulous, I have always thought a nice small fan or solar fan would help so much here.
Now, and I think the Jims, sell them, are the new "frameless" windows, no frame visible, and I think they are already tinted.
Anyone know where there is a pic of these?
my thoughts
Gatsbys' CRUISER  08-18-04
74 GLACIER X, 260/455-APC-4 Bagg'r
Remflex Manifold gaskets
CampGrounds needed, Add yours to "PLACES" />
http://www.gmceast.com/travel
_
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| Re: [GMCnet] Original windows in '73... [message #128855 is a reply to message #128846] |
Mon, 06 June 2011 07:56 |
powerjon
Messages: 2446
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Netters,
The two windows are the T Slider glass:
http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/779
and the Frameless windows:
http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/536
As for the T Sliders windows not ventilating, I had them in the coach
that I just sold for 9 years and had no issues as I ran my temp
controlled Fantastic fans to move the air without problems.
J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
TZE Zone Restorations
78 Buskirk 30' Stretch
1975 Avion (Under Reconstruction)
Michigan
On Jun 6, 2011, at 8:25 AM, Larry wrote:
>
>
> There are New Windows.
>
>
> What a subject...
>
> If you look close at the 1973 GMC Motor Home brochure, the pre
> production windows were 3 pieces of glass, I assume opening from
> either end. I actually like the look of it but they must have had
> issues, I 've never seen one on a production coach.
>
> The production coach has frames that were "pieced" together. My
> memory tells me these were later changed because of leakage problems
> at the seams.
>
> TODAY, there are the upgrade windows, two types I can think of
>
> The original upgrade is mostly one piece of glass, at the bottom,
> there is a short horizontal window on each side/w screen, about 8"
> high. Someone said they do not ventilate well but the view is
> fabulous, I have always thought a nice small fan or solar fan would
> help so much here.
>
> Now, and I think the Jims, sell them, are the new "frameless"
> windows, no frame visible, and I think they are already tinted.
>
> Anyone know where there is a pic of these?
>
>
> my thoughts
> --
> Gatsbys' CRUISER :d
> 74 GLACIER X, 260
> 455/APC/4 bagg'r(ver3)
> Remflex Manifold gaskets
> _______________________________________________
> Purchased 08-18-04
>
> _
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
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| Re: [GMCnet] Original windows in '73... [message #128876 is a reply to message #128846] |
Mon, 06 June 2011 08:42 |
bryant374
Messages: 563
Registered: May 2004
Location: Pleasant Valley, NY 12569
Karma: 1
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Re: [GMCnet] Original windows in '73... Mon, 06 June 2011 08:25
Larry C
There are New Windows.
What a subject...
If you look close at the 1973 GMC Motor Home brochure, the pre production windows were 3 pieces of glass, I assume opening from either end. I actually like the look of it but they must have had issues, I 've never seen one on a production coach.
>
>
The large window on the pre production coaches did use a 3 section glass. I was told the problem was sealing the LEADING edge of the glass to glass seal while traveling.
Bill Bryant
PO 1976~PB (owned 34 years)
1914 Ford (owned 70 years)
1965 Corvette (owned 39 years)
GMC Motorhome History
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| Re: [GMCnet] Original windows in '73... [message #128885 is a reply to message #128798] |
Mon, 06 June 2011 09:19 |
Richard Denney
Messages: 920
Registered: April 2010
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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On Sun, Jun 5, 2011 at 7:46 PM, Kelvin Dietz <kelvin@datsuns.com> wrote:
> These things are annoying...
>
Oh, yes.
> Any pointers? I'll be attacking this in a couple weeks.
>
Get new windows. Just do it. Yes, they are expensive. No, you will not
regret it.
The butt joint on the old-style windows was sealed originally with stuff
that is now brittle. I don't know what they used, and I marvel that it
worked at all for any period of time. How can you seal a butt joint in a
body that moves, at the bottom of a channel that holds water?
For the record: The smaller openings in the Motorhome Enhancement
replacement windows are plenty big enough. Actually, smaller openings
increase air speed when running a Fantastic Fan on exhaust. I can open a
couple of those windows and get a noticeable breeze through the coach, which
is more effective for comfort than large openings that allow the air
movement to slow way down.
Also for the record: Only the galley window is non-standard in GM-upfitted
230's like yours and mine. The bedroom, door, and dinette windows are the
same as on later and longer coaches.
Rick "noting also that all the ME replacement windows are tinted more deeply
than the factory glass" Denney
--
'73 230 "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
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| Re: [GMCnet] Original windows in '73... [message #128888 is a reply to message #128876] |
Mon, 06 June 2011 09:44 |
Larry C
Messages: 1168
Registered: July 2004
Location: NE Illinois by the Illino...
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Bill
I am trying to spark interest in any of these stories from the past to our coaches. We would like to dedicate a site or space where these stories may accumulate and be available for our enthusiasts.... Care to contribute on this one? I liked the look of the 3 pane window. Too bad they could not find a fix for the leak at that time.
Thank you
( Anyone with any stories of when the GMC was built or " Then and Now " Stories, PM me, looking to share with the community. )
Gatsbys' CRUISER 08-18-04
74 GLACIER X, 260/455-APC-4 Bagg'r
Remflex Manifold gaskets
CampGrounds needed, Add yours to "PLACES" />
http://www.gmceast.com/travel
_
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| Re: [GMCnet] Original windows in '73... [message #128891 is a reply to message #128798] |
Mon, 06 June 2011 10:08 |
KB
Messages: 1262
Registered: September 2009
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Worth a try. You could use the coach leveling system to help with the process --
change the level so the target spline is downhill, and put the goo in the closest
drain hole. Maybe even drill a new drain hole in bottom center piece into the
hollow channel near the end of the spline. The side frame pieces don't surround
the splines completely, so extra holes there would just be more leaks.
If it works, I think it'd be a popular approach...
>> > Kelvin,
>> >
>> > Crazy idea?
>> >
>> > How about this stuff?
>> >
>> > http://www.captaintolley.com/
>> >
>> > I found this stuff on West Marine's website:
>> >
>> > http://tinyurl.com/3gjxjd8
>> >
>> > Regards,
>> > Rob M.
>> > USAussie - Downunder
>> > AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
>> > USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
>
>
> Might just do the trick. I know where to put the stuff. Question is
> would it creep into the areas that are actually leaking. For $20 or so
> it's almost worth trying it...
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Karen
1975 26'
San Jose, CA
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