| Ok, whats the real trick to installing isolation pads. [message #128784] |
Sun, 05 June 2011 17:29  |
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RF_Burns
Messages: 2277
Registered: June 2008
Location: S. Ontario, Canada
Karma:
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Senior Member |
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I followed the current thread and re-read John Shotwell's excellent write-up on changing out the isolation pads.
I've been hitting all the bolts for the last couple weeks every few days. Today I started early and first ran a die up the threads to clean them up. After about 6 hours I finally got them all off but one.
I could not get the large two hold down bolts at the back off so I loosed the 4 smaller ones holding the block in place.
I jacked up the back and put jack stands under the frame. I managed to get the 3 behind the back wheels changed although the frame came up off the jacks while doing it.
I have a Ragusa step so I tried to remove it. I got 3 of 4 bolts out. The last nut is hopelessly rounded now and its a grade 8 bolt so I can't budge it.
Also even though the hold-down bolts are all off but one, I can get the strap off.
In front of the wheels I have had no luck. I've plugged my ears so I can't hear the crackly of the body and lifted the front and back wheels off the ground and it barely moves! Something has to be holding still. I didn't remove the front donunt... yet. And I watched the clearance around the black water drain.
So now I've got three new thick ones on the back passenger side and old worn thin ones the rest of the way around. I'm beat for the day... do I go back and remove those three thick pads so it doesn't warp the coach?
Are you guys chaining the frame down on a lift when you are doing this?
I'm thinking I'll need to build some type of frame to work off the coach's frame and put the jack on that.
What am I doing wrong?
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.
1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
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