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| Re: What a Difference [message #120782 is a reply to message #120729] |
Mon, 04 April 2011 09:04   |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Wow! Nice Job Chr$. I've been working on mine ever since I got the coach. In two years and nine months, I have done three of the windows. I admire your ambition.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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| Re: What a Difference [message #120830 is a reply to message #120782] |
Mon, 04 April 2011 16:20 |
MikeT
Messages: 225
Registered: November 2009
Location: Marine City, Michigan
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Chri$,
Looks really nice. We tried to replace the rubber in the sliding cockpit windows this weekend without success. Still not sure how to get the small sliding window out. I saw the pictures on Arch's redo but when I hit the black window frame with wood and hammer it's not moving and I'm afraid to break the glass.
Others have said they've replace the rubber without removing the cockpit sliding glass and maybe even just piecing in the rubber along the top.
Any advice to install new rubber channel appreciated. I want to do the rubber and then paint to look as nice as Chri$'s
Thanks
Mike Thomas
Marine City, MI
77 ex Palm Beach
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| Re: What a Difference [message #120834 is a reply to message #120830] |
Mon, 04 April 2011 16:52 |
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mike miller
Messages: 3576
Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Karma: 0
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| MikeT wrote on Mon, 04 April 2011 14:20 |
... We tried to replace the rubber in the sliding cockpit windows this weekend without success. Still not sure how to get the small sliding window out. I saw the pictures on Arch's redo but when I hit the black window frame with wood and hammer it's not moving and I'm afraid to break the glass.
Others have said they've replace the rubber without removing the cockpit sliding glass and maybe even just piecing in the rubber along the top.
Any advice to install new rubber channel appreciated. I want to do the rubber and then paint to look as nice as Chri$'s
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I do not think you can remove the glass without more disassembly that you really want to do...
Hitting the "black window frame" is to remove the metal strip from the glass so it can be shortened. (Not everyone shortens this strip.) I shortened the ones on my '73, the PO of the '77 didn't. I'll be changing the '78's soon and do not plan on removing the strip. I suspect the felt will wear a little faster... I'll change it again when it needs it. (IF it ever really needs it.)
Anyway....
You (and I) should be able to replace the front window rubber/felts without removing the glass.
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo'
http://m000035.blogspot.com
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| Re: What a Difference [message #120839 is a reply to message #120729] |
Mon, 04 April 2011 17:31 |
Chr$
Messages: 2690
Registered: January 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Karma: 1
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So Far I only did one side, and it was a Pain. I did not remove the glass, but used the glass to shuttle the strip to the back of the channel. I ended up having to trim the sharp corner at the top. It is a bit tight, however... I'm considering engineering a complete replacement window that ends up with a much larger opening, but I need a few scrap ones, left and right, first. Anyone have them to donate to the cause?
-Chr$: Perpetual SmartAss
Scottsdale, AZ
77 Ex-Kingsley 455 SOLD!
2010 Nomad 24 Ft TT 390W PV W/MPPT, EV4010 and custom cargo door.
Photosite: Chrisc GMC:"It has Begun" TT: "The Other Woman"
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| Re: What a Difference [message #120856 is a reply to message #120729] |
Mon, 04 April 2011 19:16 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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You need to watch Jim Bounds do it once and you will understand how to do it. I did both of mine several years ago after watching Jim. It takes about 15 minutes per window.
1. Take a wooden block and drive the vertical black aluminum strip off of the slider window.
2. Remove all of the existing felt from all sides of the slider.
3. Clean out the tracks with air and a scraper as necessary.
4. Cut a piece the correct length for the top and slide it over the window and into the upper track.
5. Do the same for the bottom only cut two additional slits in the felt to match the two drain holes on the outside bottom. I would oil the track and then slide the strip in moving the window back and forth to help drag it into place.
6. Cut a vertical strip for the front and install it.
7. Cut a piece for the rear and install it reversed. This allows the strip to also act as a stop for the slider going full open to the rear.
8. Reinstall the vertical aluminum piece on the window. Some people shorted it slightly prior to reinstallation.
No adhesive is necessary. The felt will all stay in place if it is cut and installed in the above order.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: What a Difference [message #120903 is a reply to message #120856] |
Tue, 05 April 2011 00:19 |
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mike miller
Messages: 3576
Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Karma: 0
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| Ken Burton wrote on Mon, 04 April 2011 17:16 |
... I did both of mine several years ago after watching Jim. It takes about 15 minutes per window.
1. Take a wooden block and drive the vertical black aluminum strip off of the slider window. ...
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You jugged my memory.
When I tried this (One of the first projects on my first coach) I broke off the original plastic latch fastening hardware. Then I installed the metal hardware from JimB and proceeded to break them also. I found I could remove the strip with an additional block of wood. I would place the 2nd block at the opposite end of the window I was trying to loosen. (IE: top when I was banging on the bottom of the strip.)
I eventually got them off... (slightly bent) shortened them and reinstalled them. Installing the felts was the easy part. I found "sex" nuts from the hardware store work fairly well as window latch hardware, especially with the little plastic sleeves that came with JimB's hardware. I also did all the other coach windows. In the early coaches, they work just like the cockpit windows... latches felts and all.
After looking at a few other felt installs (like the PO job on my '77) I do not think you need to shorten the strip at all. AND, if you do not need to shorten it, you really do NOT need to REMOVE it. I'll be trying it soon. (My order from JimB shipped Friday.)
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo'
http://m000035.blogspot.com
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| Re: What a Difference [message #120905 is a reply to message #120729] |
Tue, 05 April 2011 00:37 |
Luvn737s
Messages: 1106
Registered: June 2007
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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I'd recommend an epoxy primer on the metal before hitting it with trim paint. On the ones I scuffed and shot, it peeled pretty quickly. And you know what a pain it is to mask those frames. I'd rather not have to do it twice.
Randy
1973 26' Painted Desert
Ahwatukee (Phoenix) AZ
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| Re: [GMCnet] What a Difference [message #120907 is a reply to message #120903] |
Tue, 05 April 2011 00:41 |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
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What about the latch and release hardware? Anyone know where to source that?
Thanks,
Todd
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Miller <m000035@gmail.com>
Sender: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2011 00:19:37
To: <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
Reply-To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] What a Difference
Ken Burton wrote on Mon, 04 April 2011 17:16
> ... I did both of mine several years ago after watching Jim. It takes about 15 minutes per window.
>
> 1. Take a wooden block and drive the vertical black aluminum strip off of the slider window. ...
You jugged my memory.
When I tried this (One of the first projects on my first coach) I broke off the original plastic latch fastening hardware. Then I installed the metal hardware from JimB and proceeded to break them also. I found I could remove the strip with an additional block of wood. I would place the 2nd block at the opposite end of the window I was trying to loosen. (IE: top when I was banging on the bottom of the strip.)
I eventually got them off... (slightly bent) shortened them and reinstalled them. Installing the felts was the easy part. I found "sex" nuts from the hardware store work fairly well as window latch hardware, especially with the little plastic sleeves that came with JimB's hardware. I also did all the other coach windows. In the early coaches, they work just like the cockpit windows... latches felts and all.
After looking at a few other felt installs (like the PO job on my '77) I do not think you need to shorten the strip at all. AND, if you do not need to shorten it, you really do NOT need to REMOVE it. I'll be trying it soon. (My order from JimB shipped Friday.)
--
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
'73 26' exPainted D. -- `78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- `77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
http://m000035.blogspot.com
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Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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| Re: [GMCnet] What a Difference [message #120937 is a reply to message #120907] |
Tue, 05 April 2011 11:00 |
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mike miller
Messages: 3576
Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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| sgltrac wrote on Mon, 04 April 2011 22:41 |
What about the latch and release hardware? Anyone know where to source that? ...
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JimB (and most likely JimK) has the screws and nuts, unfortunately the cockpit latches themselves seem to be Unobtainium. The main source would be salvage. (Someone PLEASE prove me wrong!) Note that 1973 and 1974 coaches have the same latches on the rear side windows. So that might help some. (One of the few good things about the early windows.)
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo'
http://m000035.blogspot.com
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| Re: What a Difference [message #120942 is a reply to message #120729] |
Tue, 05 April 2011 11:10 |
Chr$
Messages: 2690
Registered: January 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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I got all my latches used from JimK and Michael B. I then got The Sleeve Nuts at ACE. I use Aluminum ones. I used some thick black double foam tape between the handle and the glass as a gasket.
as for the metal strip. I did not remove, them, but shortening them makes sense. They are what are binding on the felt, I believe.
I think a nicer way to remove them is to use a solvent or alcohol, and a good razor blade to break the bond, then they should just pop off?
-Chr$: Perpetual SmartAss
Scottsdale, AZ
77 Ex-Kingsley 455 SOLD!
2010 Nomad 24 Ft TT 390W PV W/MPPT, EV4010 and custom cargo door.
Photosite: Chrisc GMC:"It has Begun" TT: "The Other Woman"
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