| surface rust on engine parts [message #119016] |
Wed, 16 March 2011 16:46  |
hertfordnc
Messages: 1164
Registered: September 2009
Location: East NC
Karma: 0
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I'm an idiot, (not new information)
Last fall i took the head off, determined the gasket was blown and the head bolts were streached. Then came winter and some other projects and I never looked at the engine again.
Until today-
There is surface rust on all the exposed metal- push rods, head, block, cylinder walls, etc.
What is the recommended course of treatment?
thanks
Dave & Ellen Silva
Hertford, NC
76 Birchaven, 1-ton and other stuff
Currently planning the Great american Road Trip Summer 2021
It's gonna take a lot of Adderall to get this thing right.
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| Re: [GMCnet] surface rust on engine parts [message #119019 is a reply to message #119016] |
Wed, 16 March 2011 16:52  |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Scotchbrite , wd-40 & elbow grease should do the trick.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC Royale 403
On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 2:46 PM, dave silva <admin@oldrv.net> wrote:
>
>
> I'm an idiot, (not new information)
>
> Last fall i took the head off, determined the gasket was blown and the head
> bolts were streached. Then came winter and some other projects and I never
> looked at the engine again.
>
> Until today-
>
> There is surface rust on all the exposed metal- push rods, head, block,
> cylinder walls, etc.
>
> What is the recommended course of treatment?
>
> thanks
>
>
>
>
> --
> Dave & Ellen Silva
>
>
> Check out the website:
>
> http://www.oldrv.net
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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| Re: surface rust on engine parts [message #119057 is a reply to message #119016] |
Wed, 16 March 2011 23:27 |
Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 4260
Registered: January 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Karma: 1
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if it is just the wipe-off type, i would just assemble it and get it running. I'm sure the anal retentive crowd will freak out but it won't hurt a thing.
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
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| Re: surface rust on engine parts [message #119069 is a reply to message #119016] |
Thu, 17 March 2011 05:17 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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| hertfordnc wrote on Wed, 16 March 2011 17:46 |
I'm an idiot, (not new information)
Last fall i took the head off, determined the gasket was blown and the head bolts were streached. Then came winter and some other projects and I never looked at the engine again.
Until today-
There is surface rust on all the exposed metal- push rods, head, block, cylinder walls, etc.
What is the recommended course of treatment?
thanks
|
Would you believe you are the first one to ever do this?
Would you believe you are the first one to ever do this - this year?
Would you believe you are the first one to ever do this today?
I didn't think so . . .
Well, it goes like this, some surfaces matter a whole lot and others, not so much.
Bores, bearing surfaces and the fire deck (where the gasket goes) matter.
For the bores, get cheapest ball hone you can find and use it with any old oil (real wet to clean the surface) (a little pitting won't matter if the rust is gone). The worst thing that happens here is that the rings trap moisture, and if the bores were not oiled enough to keep the rings from making a mark in the bore, then that is done. If you can still see where the rings were after the ball hone, don't bother going on because the corroded material in the bores will make it a waste of time.
For the fire deck, get a cheap hand stone and again with the oil. (and old handstone will have a wallow where it has worn and you don't want that because it may round edges that you don't want rounded.
For the crank, many shops will polish a crank.
For the cam, find a friend with a lathe and use that and the handstone to clean up the cam - slowly.
Lash adjuster bores are important but not critical. A piece of 400 wet or dry ducktaped on a piece of right sized hose usually does a good job.
Valve guides are important, but for some reason seldom corrode. try the valves and if they are free - you scored on that one. If no, then get a 1/4 dowel and more 400 and wrap it on there and clean gently.
Insides of main, rod and cam bearing journals need to be clean, but are pretty unfussy. Do those by hand with 220.
Good Luck Guy
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: surface rust on engine parts [message #119070 is a reply to message #119069] |
Thu, 17 March 2011 06:07 |
hertfordnc
Messages: 1164
Registered: September 2009
Location: East NC
Karma: 0
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Thanks. No worries about the crank, cam, etc. The engine has oil in it.
I removed one head and left it off for a couple months. The affected areas are the mating sufaces of the head and intake, the exposed pushrods on the side with the head still on and two cylinder walls (the other two cylinders are near the top).
Dave & Ellen Silva
Hertford, NC
76 Birchaven, 1-ton and other stuff
Currently planning the Great american Road Trip Summer 2021
It's gonna take a lot of Adderall to get this thing right.
[Updated on: Thu, 17 March 2011 06:07] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: surface rust on engine parts [message #119126 is a reply to message #119123] |
Thu, 17 March 2011 19:20 |
hertfordnc
Messages: 1164
Registered: September 2009
Location: East NC
Karma: 0
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is that THE answer? Do we really have a consensus?
The issue is getting rid of the particles, right?
Dave & Ellen Silva
Hertford, NC
76 Birchaven, 1-ton and other stuff
Currently planning the Great american Road Trip Summer 2021
It's gonna take a lot of Adderall to get this thing right.
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| Re: surface rust on engine parts [message #119140 is a reply to message #119126] |
Thu, 17 March 2011 23:17 |
Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 4260
Registered: January 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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| hertfordnc wrote on Thu, 17 March 2011 18:20 |
is that THE answer? Do we really have a consensus?
The issue is getting rid of the particles, right?
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Well I doubt that we do but having grown up in the 60's, 70's and 80's in GM manufacturing, most people would be shocked with what was acceptable. Frankly, at that time our components such as engines and transmissions were bullet proof. Unless there are particles in the component, a slight amount of surface "rust" or discoloration meant nothing. There are just way too many myths that have been propogaded primarily by marketing efforts to react to. This is just another one of them.
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
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| Re: surface rust on engine parts [message #119176 is a reply to message #119126] |
Fri, 18 March 2011 12:48 |
Keith V
Messages: 2337
Registered: March 2008
Location: Mounds View,MN
Karma: 0
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| hertfordnc wrote on Thu, 17 March 2011 19:20 |
is that THE answer? Do we really have a consensus?
The issue is getting rid of the particles, right?
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Listen to Matt (mcolie)...
Keith Vasilakes
Mounds View. MN
75 ex Royale GMC
ask me about MicroLevel
Cell, 763-732-3419
My427v8@hotmail.com
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| Re: [GMCnet] surface rust on engine parts [message #119191 is a reply to message #119176] |
Fri, 18 March 2011 17:47 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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G'day,
TOO RIGHT, SPOT ON!
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith V
Listen to Matt (mcolie)...
--
Keith
69 Vette
29 Dodge
75 Royale GMC
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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