| 12V wiring to hall light and bath [message #117135] |
Tue, 01 March 2011 19:27  |
jtblank
Messages: 237
Registered: June 2007
Location: Tulare, CA
Karma: 1
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Well I did it, shorted the mounting screw to the switch connection on the hall light..... snap there went the fuse, checked the bath lights and they came on for an instant and then off. Checked the fuse (OEM setup) and #4 (15amp blown), replaced and still no power to bath or hall fixture. I checked with a meter and have power across all fuses, looking at fuse assignments on the inside of the door #4 is hall light and #5 is bath. Maybe it was wired to #4? Anyway does anyone have schematics on the inside wiring so I know were to chase the open circuit? I'm redoing the headliner and got the back out and was working on removing the short hall piece when all of this started so should help in tracking down the problem. If anyone has any "great" ideas, I'm all ears now that my face is covered in egg admitting the oops! 2 steps forward, 1 step back.
After reading this before posting I still don't understand why the bath light lit for a fraction of a second with the fuse already blown and it's suppose to be on another circuit/fuse???
Thanks
John Blankenship
'76 Palm Beach
Tulare, CA
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| Re: 12V wiring to hall light and bath [message #117163 is a reply to message #117156] |
Tue, 01 March 2011 22:13  |
jtblank
Messages: 237
Registered: June 2007
Location: Tulare, CA
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Link works, the PO ran a new dedicated line to the fridge from an add-on 4 fuse DC block below the OEM 7 line. What's weird is the front right light should be on the bath line but it works as well as rear reading, but the bath is dead. By the way my floorplan is a 26-09.
Thanks again.
John Blankenship
'76 Palm Beach
Tulare, CA
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| Re: 12V wiring to hall light and bath [message #117174 is a reply to message #117135] |
Wed, 02 March 2011 00:11 |
jtblank
Messages: 237
Registered: June 2007
Location: Tulare, CA
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Well now it gets even better, I shorted out the hall light at lunch today at work and driving home tonight in the dark I noticed when I was getting out that there was light in the bath leaking through the crack around the door. I opened the door and believe it or not the bath light was on.... I turned it off and then turned the other side on and it worked... then turned it off and now neither one works... What the sh*# is this thing haunted? I can only think that the driving moved something (connection) that is loose. It's late already but I'll let you what and when I find something. Anybody got any ideas where to start?
Thanks
John Blankenship
'76 Palm Beach
Tulare, CA
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| Re: [GMCnet] 12V wiring to hall light and bath [message #117518 is a reply to message #117515] |
Fri, 04 March 2011 12:17 |
k2gkk
Messages: 4452
Registered: November 2009
Karma: -8
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Senior Member |
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Somebody else had mentioned "contact cleaner."
The BEST is "Deoxit" from the Caig company.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ex-Palm Beach, 76 ~ ~ ~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> From: cjonesgo@yahoo.com
> Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 11:35:42 -0600
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] 12V wiring to hall light and bath
>
>
>
> Because of this thread I decided to check the lights in my bath. I have been using it as a storage closet while I rebuild, and don't think that I had ever even tried to turn on the lights...
>
> Sure enough, lights don't work!
>
> After a quick check, I am getting full current to the fixture, but switches have failed. On both lights! I had planned to replace them anyway, so not a big deal, but shows that these things do go bad.
>
> One of my other lights has the "on for a second" behavior sometimes, and it is the switch that is failing. I can jiggle it and get it to stay on.
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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| Re: [GMCnet] 12V wiring to hall light and bath [message #117640 is a reply to message #117619] |
Sat, 05 March 2011 09:22 |
rwbmitiopt@comcast.net
Messages: 189
Registered: April 2005
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Emery
Are the switchs referred to the three position slide ones used on all the original lights? Mine are so bad I expect them to break rather than move.
Randall
| emerystora wrote on Sat, 05 March 2011 00:04 |
Atta Boy! Something so simple to do but which really does wonders. I
carry a can of contact cleaner with me in the GMC. I used to buy a
little can at Radio Shack but now find that I can buy a large spray
can at Ace Hardware for less.
Emery Stora
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Randall Burns
Sammamish WA
75 EX GB
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| Re: [GMCnet] 12V wiring to hall light and bath [message #118344 is a reply to message #117646] |
Thu, 10 March 2011 16:32 |
jtblank
Messages: 237
Registered: June 2007
Location: Tulare, CA
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Update....
I cleaned the switches and no go, tested the line in hallway and sometimes I get 12v sometimes not.. I just went out at lunch time and plugged the fixture back into the line and light went on.. hurray, I thought. Went into bath to check those lights and went on for a second and then off and the hall light went out too. Turned the bath light switch to off and unplugged hall fixture, played around hall line no +12v pulled the line in flex conduit abit and now +12v on line.. plugged back in no lights.. tested the wire lugs on back of switch 12v.
I'm no electrician (really a CPA) but my thoughts are were ever those two ground lines run (hall and bath) there must be a bad connection. I've cleaned the connection on the fuse panel for the + side but where do they ground? Also the fuse panel says that the hall light is on line 4 and bath is on 5 but they both are out and all the other items listed on the fuse guide work so obviously the power +12v is not the problem but rather the ground on the hall and light circuit? Maybe they are both grounded at same spot and when I arced the circuit taking down the hall fixture it oxidized the ground connection? Got enough +12v to measure but connection not good enough to power the 2amp bulbs?
I'm looking for some input here and where I should look next.
Thanks,
John Blankenship
'76 Palm Beach
Tulare, CA
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